Rebuilt engine not going very fast

The only gauges that are in the car are the ones in my sig.. the boost one and then the a/f. Where do you think this gauge could get the reading? Not too sure on where the vacuum/boost should come from in order to make it get an accurate reading. I was thinking the WGA, but not too sure how to do that unless I T it off and make the WGA go directly to the IM, then have the boost gauge line in that T.

On second thought, I could do away with that gauge, if I can figure out how to uninstall it without removing my dash.. **MP3 partout flashbacks** unless I have to.. and get a gauge that isn't that complex, maybe the Greddy Profec Spec II. At least one that I can simply tap into the U-shaped vacuum line to get a reading for.

Usually..I agree you are right..but dependng on what gauge she has..it can be for boost pressure as well..Even though it would be a VERY uncommon setup.
 
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So it is okay to have the WGA line combined with the line from the BOV, and having them both go to the same source on the IM?

**And BTW...the vacuum line from your wastegate>bpv looks good. Just bring it directly to IM without going to pressure sender..like I indicate in the picture below.
 
So the way you have everything right now is fine then. So Nordskog makes boost senders that also look like your typical oil and fuel pressure sender....learned something tonight.
 
so nice to be back home with my exam period a thing of the past.
I haven't reset my ECU, I wanted to give it a little more time to see if it would take away the error code by itself. It paid off, the CEL is gone now.

I found a Samco intercooler hose on the f/s section and that made the choice easy for me. I received the hose on friday and got some clamps for it today and installed it. (I had to cut off almost an inch of the BPV hose, so I guess there is no way back now.) There was no sign of hesitation today, neither before or after I installed the hose. The hose had a nice little side-effect btw - It went on a little hunting trip and found the turkey that moved in alongside my injen intake :)

I might be fooling myself but the whistling noise appears to be weaker than before, but still noticable. I have read that the BPV, J-Pipe and turbo housing all might cause this problem. I think I'll start with the BPV. Any reccomendations on a BPV that will work well with my HKS BOV that I probably will be installed soon?

Anyways my high RPM trouble is still here. After doing some reading I suspect the VICS for messing things up (which is the reason why I want to replace the intake manifold with the PG one.) Is there any easy way of testing the VICS and VCTS first maybe?

Ayone here that have removed them and can tell me how the engine behaves without them?
 
Bringing this back from the dead. Looking at the first post it's amazing how long it's been. My car still has problems, but is running CEL-less (thanks to this tread) and I have had a lot of other bad stuff going on taking the focus away form the car while I still needed something to transport me from A to B.

I am in the process of getting a DD for the winter and that means that I can finally park my MSP for the remainder of the season and take it back out on the road when eveything is fixed.

OK, enough chitchat, back on topic:
I was driving it today on icy roads and I for fun floored it just to check (warmed up engine). The tires instantly began to rotate freely and in 2nd gear it was OK, passed 6000RPM without issues, but in 3rd gear it stopped at around 5400 RPM, it was like hitting a RPM limiter and confirming what I have felt to be true all along. Again, any ideas what this may be?

I haven't installed my A/F gauge yet, I was planning to do that when I get a midpipe upgrade that I haven't gotten yet and because I have been preoccupied. Still, the whistle sound tips me off that there is an air leak somewhere, probably after the MAF, causing my car to run extremely rich. When I get the last of the parts I need my plan is to change out hot- and coldpipes with stainless steel ones, custom SMIC, HKS SSQV as BPV, intake manifold (626), EGR valve, MAF and throttle body. The EGR, MAF and TB are used, but lower milage parts. Then I want to try to solder out the MPI with possible bad tune out, reset the ECU and hope for the best when I take it out of the garage again. Is there anything else that would be smart to check, clean, tighten or change out when I'm at it??
- Like the the knock sensor, anyone got a pic of correct placement on that one?

Just to maybe beat someone to the question: The engine is running on Mobil1 5W50 synthetic and it does stay in the engine, nothing is going out of the exhaust.
 
Test your two vac solenoids on a 2 bolt braket on top of your intake manifold near pass side, it sounds like either one of your VICS, and VTCS is not in the correct position, these solenoids do NOT pull a cel on the msp, only when unplugged.

You can also run a 12 volt power supply to them and see if you can blow air through the ports (the side with 2 connections) the other side is the atmosphere reference and should not be clogged either ( there is a small box cap over these it has a small pinhole in it)

The VICS solenoid and vac lines is the one closer the the drivers side, and the VTCS is closer to the pass side, unplug these vac lines, run the VICS to a main vac/ boost line and unplug the vac line for the VTCS, the VTCS should have no vaccum when the car is warmed up, you can even unplug it at the check valve.

The VICS has vacuum at idle and up to the RPM switch point, when you start the car at any temp you should see the rod move with the actuator, if this is working incorrectly you will have horrible low end torque , and it will hesitate like crazy especially when cold, cause a somewhat stumblly idle, from running too rich and not using the right intake runners, this could cause the EGR to become very clogged too.

You can test these vac solenoid by using an ohmmeter and measure the resistance on the leads on the solenoid if it > 60 Ohms it is bad, anything over 1 megaohm throw it away and buy a new one.

Note: Some people on probe talk have had luck with temporarily applying 24 volts to jump the problems in the solenoid coil, but many fixed ones have failed months after fixing anyway, they are 100.00 to buy online, or you could goto a junkyard.


Also make sure your VTCS, is in its default position at operating temp (no vacuum to this actuator)

Also, the constant vacuum accumulator that the leads of these solenoids goto, sometimes gets clogged or the check valve gets weak, and cannot pull vaccum on both items.

I would take the vac line off of the VTCS, the only one with check valve on that side.

And then run a single vac line from this vac reserve nipple to verified working solenoid and hook it up to your VICS(torque/high hp) runner actuator.

I would then make sure with your (cold start butterflies / the one w/ check valve) is unplugged from the vac system and use a screwdriver to push the lever closest to the Intake manifold gasket to make sure it is free to move and the spring returns it after you push on it.


This pic shows the VICS actuator freely moving when off, and you should not be able to move it easily when the car is running.
Also shown is the VTCS check valve to the left that can get stuck also.




This makes sense you have no low end torque, and are limited by the runner restrictions from the closed VTCS actuator,

I tried driving my warmed up car emulating this problem, i also could not get above 4500 RPM and made 2 psi of boost, put it back the way it should and bam 10 psi and pulls like a champ.

I have a feeling this is your problem, hope this helps.
 
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Don't know too much about these, but they have crossed my mind, didn't know how to test them before. I'll sure check this out in the weekend. (too much to take care of during daylight after work on the weekdays)
 
Intake manifold gasket, mine is currently leaking, peak boost around 5psi. Needs a new gasket.
 
Intake manifold gasket, mine is currently leaking, peak boost around 5psi. Needs a new gasket.

Right now my car is usable and I was thinking about leaveing it at that until January when I'm going to replace the head with the built one that I'm going to pick up on my roadtrip. Then it's time for a new intake manifold (626) and exhaust manifold to get things running perfect.

Is it possible to get to those nuts and replace the gasket with everything else still attached?
Is there anything out there easily available that is better than stock intake manifold gasket?

Do you have a whisteling noise coming from your car aswell (not very loud, just stronger than the normal turbo whistle)?
Let me know if a new intake manifold gasket solves your problem.
 
I had issues with the MPI on my car, it got so bad one day that I had fuel pouring out my muffler one day. I had to pull it out in a parking lot one day just to get home. My eyes were tearing on the drive home.
 
have you tried running it w/out the MPI???

My MPI is here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123747457

It got a little smoother without the MPI under 4000RPM but less kick over 4000RPM. It does run better without it, but I think that's because the previous owner who installed the MPI soldered it in wrong switching the MAF and primary O2 signals. The MPI unit itself was working perfect though.

As stated above my plans is to switch out my cylinder head to a build one, change out my intake- and exhaust manifold. Then it's time to get my Unichip tuned and installed.
 
Well, this is a very old thread now. After a changing some parts that had some effect the MSP was again usable. Not at full power but good enough to use and have some fun with, and I had to prioritize my money elsewhere so it just stood standby. Recently my engine got worse, but that was in fact a good thing, because now I was able to find the air leak!

The faulty part on my MSP is....

The turbo exhaust inlet gasket.
 
try checking ur exhaust manifold for cracks

Hi

I did that a long time ago when I changed the exhaust manifold gasket, problem then was that I stopped there, it could have spared me a lot of irritation down the line if I had checked a bit further then. I've gotten one bolt tightened and that helped quite a bit. (I should have though about this one earlier since the turbo setup was mounted in the US so I guess loose bolts are to be expected)

A new and thicker gasket from England should arrive any day now and I have a Steedspeed going my way soon so I should have this fixed permanently in a couple of weeks :)
 

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