rear sway bushing whoas...

fr0st

Member
:
2003.5 yellow msp
so the sway bar was squeaking..not loose and banging but a nice squeak..

so i decided to unmount the bushings and grease them... did the first with no problem.. started to unscrew the 2nd and one the last bolt.. the one you can't see from underneath was loose with the nut half way unscrewed... that means i had to use something to get into the subframe part and hold it to unscrew it and screw it back... now since those cars are prone to those bushings going bad i thought why not make it more practical

after greasing it, i tried to put it back but couldn't hold the nut behind it.. it must have unwleded from the frame and the previous owner or dealer must have put a normal nut there.. but i dunno how he got it to hold.. sincee i dont have a lift it's pretty hard to do when your lying underneath the car..

so i took the buffer out with a zip cut disc and made a .75" x .75" hole into the subframe underneath to be able to get a pair of long nose to hold the nut while i screw the bolt with a ratchet... i just hope that won' harme the integrity of the car... as for rust i put rust proofing rubber in a can on the place i cut..

will this be ok ??

it's the only thing i can think of to not give me trouble when changing the bushing to AWR next time..

Fr0st
 
With the hole there now you can probabaly get the bolt welded then weld up the hole you made . The hole shouldnt cause you any problems
 
LMAO - I feel your pain. I have the same exact issue (one of the nuts broke the weld) on one of my bolts...

its a b****, but I have access to a lift and about all the tools you can imagine (thanks to a friend @ the dealership) so we got it back on without much trouble.

I do agree though, that the design could be a little better.

as for the rigidity, I wouldnt imagine it would make much (if at all) of an impact, but I cant really say for sure. As for long term, Im clueless.

I used a combo of heavy duty grease and white lithium grease spray.

Wiped the parts with the heavy duty grease and then after reinstalling (both front and rear), sprayed them with white lithium grease.
 
i use castrol GTX grease.. - 40 to 200 degrees Celsius

all weather :)

no more sqeaking
 
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Rome04 said:
What would I use for -50 weather? thats seriously how cold it gets here.

well go to canadian tire and chck out the greases they have over there.. some of them are synthetic and will go lower... i use that same catrol on my snow mobile and sportbike swingarm pivot..

i don't think you'd need anything lower than -40 celsius

i'm in Quebec and it ain't that cold :)

Fr0st
 
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The stock bushings have a teflon liner in them and any grease in there will erode the liner. If the liner is already gone, your squeak will come back within a week or two of greasing them, no matter what grease you use.
 
What evolv is really trying to say is buy his bracket, it works, it's friggin awesome, it's greasable, etc.

It's what I was gonna say even if he hadn't already chimed in here.

And I also had the nut break the weld. lots of fun.. I just bought a new nut and bolt when I was putting my clunk fix bracket on and was able to reach through a hole in the subframe nearby to get it tight.
 
i member when i fixed my rear bushings. the bolt on the driver side snaped i had to drill out and thred.... that was a paint 95 degresse out also..
 
My sway bar sqeaks so loud its embarrassing. So basically the only real -long term- fix is the evolv anti-clunk bracket?
 
evolv said:
The stock bushings have a teflon liner in them and any grease in there will erode the liner. If the liner is already gone, your squeak will come back within a week or two of greasing them, no matter what grease you use.


i see your kit has a grease nipple... do some greases made for this exists in a tube for a grease gun?

what would that grease be?
 
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