Rear Engine Mount Replacement Guide?

Hey now Everyone! I haven't had much luck finding a guide on replacing the rear engine mount on the p5. The only video I found is this. After watching the video, I'm thinking about letting an mechanic to do it since it seems like a lot of work.

Would love to hear your thoughts or if there is an easy way to fix it (like shoving a piece of rubber in there and calling it a day.

2002 Mazda Protege 5 rear engine mount removal (tagalog) PT #01. Sadly I do not speak tagalog. : (

I also found this: not sure if the protege front is exactly the same as the p5. How to - Change Rear Motor Mount - Mazda Protege

Thank you as always!
 
PCB replied to me in the "what have you done to your P5 today" thread regarding the rear mount.

"As far as I remember, you don't have to remove anything.
The ½ extensions give enough wobble room to bend past everything, but you have to press down HARD from the top to make sure that you don't round off your nuts so that even a Mazda shop can't fit the proper socket on it.
The socket needs to push down squarely and firmly on the nut.
Even removing the stud can be a PITA.
You have to pound on it to break it off.
I think it's supporting some wires too or something nearby is?
You don't want to chop through the wires by accident,.."

I haven't tackled it yet but looking into it, it seems to be a good approach. and as far as I have learned, the P5 and the sedan are the same under the hood, save for maybe a couple minor differences. Maybe he will stop by here and help, He seems to be the GOAT of knowledge around here!!
 
Well, that's all I really know about it.
I've never done my rear mount, I just remember reading about it.
The trick is to use multiple ½" extensions, and make sure that you use a 6 point socket.

I remember the guy that did it said he got it done in an hour or two.

I remember a thread about it that had pictures of the stud that has to be broken off, but I don't where the thread is and I think the pictures are no longer there.
 
I did the rear mount in the last year or so. It was hard but doable for myself as a wrenching novice with basic tools. I am glad I didn't pay someone to do it. It just takes patience. And also my car has no rust so breaking the bolts loose was not the nightmare that some have described, so your mileage may vary.

I mentioned it in the main thread but didn't really add much in the way of instructions.
I did it. I freakin did it.
I successfully replaced my rear motor mount.
I was able to do it without removing my intake manifold or throttlebody, in the span of about 4-5 hours.

It went about as well as I think it could have. Bought the car over a year ago with the mount being shot, and I definitely convinced myself that it was going to be the worst thing in the flippin universe to replace, having read a lot of stuff about it on here. It was definitely hard, but absolutely worth the work.

I used $17 in low quality Harbor Freight extensions and u-joints, which surprisingly did the job. Ironically, the only casualty was my Craftsman ratchet (RIP) which I admittedly put too much torque on while trying to break the nuts loose. Oh, and my hands which got pretty banged up. I replaced the OEM mount with another OEM mount which I filled with some PU sealant (40 duro I think).

I might make a guide on how I did mine, if it's helpful to anybody. I am inspired to the point that I want to share my success story and inspire other Protege owners to tackle this challenge and restore smooth driving to their cars. Lol 😁
It's familiar enough to me that I could answer questions if you have them. I remember the general process going something like this.
  1. Remove stuff that's in the way (strut brace, intake tube, battery, etc.)
    1. I didn't remove the intake manifold or throttle body, but I probably would remove the throttle body if I was doing it again because it gives a bit of extra space.
  2. Take the wheels off, or at least the passenger side. This is so that you can get a bunch of extensions through the passenger side wheel well to reach the through-bolt in the mount.
  3. I also jacked up the car to reach stuff from below.
  4. Grind the infamous stud off the firewall with a Dremel tool. Not too bad, just takes some time.
  5. Use tons of extensions from harbor freight to break the bolts loose from above with a breaker bar (not a ratchet!!).
  6. Make sure the engine is supported before removing the mount
  7. Remove mount, install new mount, etc. It's going to be real tight but it's possible.
  8. I'm sure I'm missing stuff, but that's what I remember off the top of my head. (I would need pics/descriptions of issues to jog my memory further)
(Pics of my extensions and the ground down stud attached)
 

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Also, here are the two videos I bookmarked when I was doing research on this. I have not watched them since then, so fair warning that they could be full of nonsense or who knows what. They were helpful to the past me, but this is the "cover my butt" disclaimer. Click at your own risk.

 
Would love to hear your thoughts or if there is an easy way to fix it (like shoving a piece of rubber in there and calling it a day.

One thing I'll add, is that if was my car, I would just leave the old mount there and try to fill the mount with window weld.

I would try to clean the mount as best that I could, then put the car jack near that mount and lift the engine a bit.
The engine is probably sagging at that mount.
Then I would just squeeze the window weld into the mount, then leave the jack there supporting everything for a day or two to dry out and harden up.

Keep in mind that my car is a rusty turd, and I only do work on it that is necessary.


This is a picture of my passenger side engine mount where the PO filled it with what looks like window weld,..

IMG_20220426_110254.jpg


And this is the dreaded rear mount,..

IMG_20220426_110344.jpg


It looks like the PO replaced the rear mount?
The stud supporting the wiring harness is gone, and there's a hole through the firewall.
You can see how the wires are blocking access to the nuts from the top.

IMG_20220426_110446.jpg



I've got half the engine removed from the parts car, so things are quite visible and accessible.
I have no idea how hard it would be to try and fill that mount without removing it from the car?
It looks really tight in there.


I'm pretty sure that my rear mount on my DD is shot but I don't really care.
It forces my to drive gently so that my engine isn't bouncing around and my car isn't bunny hopping.

A lot of guys just ignore the rear mount and just replace the other three. The new front mount helps support the rear which helps a lot.
 
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I'm the one that stuffed the chunk of rubber in my mount, but that was the transmission mount and was easy to access.

20210728_001553.jpg


I didn't do anything with my rear mount.

There was a guy here on the forum that turbocharged his car then went to replace his rear mount and snapped a bolt off in his rear mount where it threads into the side of the transmission.
He tried everything to remove the stud (it broke off clean at the transmission).
He ended up just giving up and driving his turbocharged car with no rear mount all. Lol


I found the thread. I was a little off. The bolts were previously broken by the PO.

 
Hey now Everyone! I haven't had much luck finding a guide on replacing the rear engine mount on the p5.

Did you replace the other 3 mounts?
If not, do that first and see how it is.
It may be acceptable and you can ignore the rear mount like I'm doing. Lol
 
One thing I'll add, is that if was my car, I would just leave the old mount there and try to fill the mount with window weld.

I would try to clean the mount as best that I could, then put the car jack near that mount and lift the engine a bit.
The engine is probably sagging at that mount.
Then I would just squeeze the window weld into the mount, then leave the jack there supporting everything for a day or two to dry out and harden up.
I tried this. It did not work well. I kept the engine jacked up for a week while the stuff was drying. It dried fully on the outside, but once I set the engine down and drove the car, it blew out and all of the wet PU on the inside and basically reverted to what it was before. You really need to let it dry for months in a spare mount before installing it on the car. The rubber chunks seem like they'd work better though.
 
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Hey guys sorry for the late update. I ended up not doing it because the amount of effort needed isn't worth a mild improvement in vibration.

I have not replaced the other 3 mounts because they are still okay. (for an 03 anyways lol)

Trying to get this 250k with this car!
Did you replace the other 3 mounts?
If not, do that first and see how it is.
It may be acceptable and you can ignore the rear mount like I'm doing. Lol
 
I’m just getting started on this project but I’m already stuck. I’ve got the single 10mm nut removed but I can’t get the plastic wire tray to budge. I’ve managed to free the wire bundle from the tray but I can’t get the tray out.

is there another fastener? Here’s a photo from a previous post that I marked up.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Jeff B
 
I found another thread that mentioned the second nut holding the wire tray. Wow, that was hard to find but not that bad to remove the nut and get access to the 3 bolts.
however, the stud blocks access to one of the engine mount bolts. Tomorrow, I’ll be cutting that off!
 
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