RB Rear Sway Bar + Stock End Links = ?

ke20sprinter

Member
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Daily Driver Protege5
So, I just installed my rear Racing Beat Sway bar, using 20mm Energy Suspension Bushings & Bracket (bent them to fit the stock angle). Now I've read that it doesn't work, but I don't see any problem with mine.

*I am using MP3 springs/Tokico shocks

I did have to slide the rubber holders on the sway bar (black grommet thing with a metal band) that keeps the bushings from moving, closer to the bolt holes (used a 21mm wrench & hammer to move it).

I had to open up the bolt holes on the energy suspension bracket to fit the stock nut & bolts, and use washers under the bracket, so it won't squeeze the bushings.

I put it back together and it seems the sway bar isn't parallel to the ground (the endlink is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch too short), I may go to 4wheel parts to see if they have the right end link length if this is a problem.

**I did read in the How To section that the bar can swing around and point upward if using the stock end links, this is caused by bumps on the road...But I can't see how that's possible...You have to be doing some Dukes of Hazzard jumps to get that to happen...Or maybe the car is really low. So I'll wait & see if anything happens.

WiL
 
yea you cant use stock endlinks, gotta get some msp or mp3 endlinks or go buy some awr adjustables. On my car i used MSP Brackets and Mp3 bushings and MP3 endlinks and everything went on fine.
 
Ahh...Just revisted his how to, and found his problem:

The AWR bracket.

<Img Src="http://www.msprotege.com/members/garretts77/picture001%20012small.jpg"</a>

Notice the AWR bracket moves the bar lower & forward, making the endlink even shorter. If you look at the AWR bar, it doesn't have the bump like the RB does (the bump is where the Racing Beat sticker is). Because the AWR bar is straight, it needs to be lowered to fit.

Notice also his sway bar is pointing up.

WiL
 
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ur not even supposed to use the awr brackets, only reason those things were made is for AWR's bars. They run straight bars, reason for bracket is to lower theres because it would hit that thing coming down off the submount. That is why rb's bar has that bend in it. So they are not needed.
 
InFeXIoN said:
ur not even supposed to use the awr brackets, only reason those things were made is for AWR's bars. They run straight bars, reason for bracket is to lower theres because it would hit that thing coming down off the submount. That is why rb's bar has that bend in it. So they are not needed.

Oh, I'm just saying I found the other guy's problem with his sway bar...That's not my picture/car.

WiL
 
I have progress 21.5mm sway bar with the mounts that came with it, stock endlinks, stock struts, 1.3 lowering springs & no problems at all with fit or noises. Might change endlinks & struts if auto crossing or racing but this set up seems more than fine for daily driving & sporting about. Haven't been babying it at all.
 
ke20sprinter said:
Oh, I'm just saying I found the other guy's problem with his sway bar...That's not my picture/car.

WiL

It is very difficult to read your posts without looking away from your avatar, but don't change it! Best one on the forum. Sometimes I just sit & stare for a while, it's so calming & refreshing. LOL
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
It is very difficult to read your posts without looking away from your avatar, but don't change it! Best one on the forum. Sometimes I just sit & stare for a while, it's so calming & refreshing. LOL

You're crazy (thumb)
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
I have progress 21.5mm sway bar with the mounts that came with it, stock endlinks, stock struts, 1.3 lowering springs & no problems at all with fit or noises. Might change endlinks & struts if auto crossing or racing but this set up seems more than fine for daily driving & sporting about. Haven't been babying it at all.

That's the thing, some people have problems with their endlinks, while others don't. I don't see a problem (haven't encountered one) with my stock endlinks. I have a feeling, if you're really low, then maybe (when you're car is too low, the RB sway bar tends to angle upward w/stock endlinks).

WiL
 
I was under the assumption that the MP3 and MSP have the same endlinks as the protege 5. They sure look the same?
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
It is very difficult to read your posts without looking away from your avatar, but don't change it! Best one on the forum. Sometimes I just sit & stare for a while, it's so calming & refreshing. LOL
(first) I AGREE
 
MSP end links are longer then P5 end links by almost and inch and a half . With the longer end links the bar won't turn up like some people have had problems with.
 
*subscribes* My RB rear sway bar might already be at my parents' house, I'll see when I arrive there tomorrow.
 
r there any major disadvantages with the rb bar pointing upward?...i have the awr adjustable endlinks and theyre set as short as possible, thus, making my bar point upward a bit...
 
I broke both of my rear endlinks out of frustration today. I have the MSP rear sway bar mounted but with no endlinks to attach it to :(

I ordered the MSP endlinks from protegegarage at least a week ago and haven't heard anything yet.

I did notice when I was down there that it doesn't seem like I need longer endlinks at all. I guess that should be the least of my worries though, as there are broken pieces of endlink attached to each strut now with no way to get them off.
 
zverg said:
I broke both of my rear endlinks out of frustration today. I have the MSP rear sway bar mounted but with no endlinks to attach it to :(

I ordered the MSP endlinks from protegegarage at least a week ago and haven't heard anything yet.

I did notice when I was down there that it doesn't seem like I need longer endlinks at all. I guess that should be the least of my worries though, as there are broken pieces of endlink attached to each strut now with no way to get them off.

You can drive it around w/o the sway bar...That's not a problem.

Soak the endlinks w/WD40 (use alot) and use the allen wrench to hold it still. If that doesn't work, use a hacksaw or hold the threaded part with locking pliers and use an open ended wrench.
 
ke20sprinter said:
You can drive it around w/o the sway bar...That's not a problem.

Soak the endlinks w/WD40 (use alot) and use the allen wrench to hold it still. If that doesn't work, use a hacksaw or hold the threaded part with locking pliers and use an open ended wrench.

I tried all of that besides the hacksaw. That's my next method. I do need new struts anyway but I would like to get the sway bar attached as soon as possible (i.e. when the endlinks come from protegegarage).
 
zverg said:
I tried all of that besides the hacksaw. That's my next method. I do need new struts anyway but I would like to get the sway bar attached as soon as possible (i.e. when the endlinks come from protegegarage).

Sorry about that...That's all I can think of.
 

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