RB Rear Sway Bar + Stock End Links = ?

I had to use the hacksaw to get mine off. I soaked the bolts in wd40 and it still did not help. One side the allen key hole stripped so I said F*#@ it and bought the Msp Endlinks and new bolts for the endlinks.
 
we changed the spring's on Foolish's car this weekend, and to get the endlinks off of the strut, we sprayed it down w/ some PB Blaster and then used a wratchet w/ a pipe (the handle from my raching jack lol) to break it loose. It worked better than I thought it would lol
 
I wish I had ordered replacement front endlinks when I ordered my MSP rear endlinks. I guarantee I'll break both front endlinks when installing my struts this weekend. I'm not about to wait on the endlinks before doing my strut install.
 
zverg said:
I wish I had ordered replacement front endlinks when I ordered my MSP rear endlinks. I guarantee I'll break both front endlinks when installing my struts this weekend. I'm not about to wait on the endlinks before doing my strut install.

Soak it with WD40 for a while & take out the endlinks before you remove the struts...That way the endlink is being held down with the swaybar and it shouldn't move (this is what I did).
 
ke20sprinter said:
Soak it with WD40 for a while & take out the endlinks before you remove the struts...That way the endlink is being held down with the swaybar and it shouldn't move (this is what I did).

Thanks, I'll definitely give that a try when I do the install.
 
alrite, the MSP/Mp3 endlinks are about an inch longer than Regular protege's and p5's stock endlinkes. So yes you need them. After you get those, u will be fine. All i had were MSP horshoe brackets, Mp3 bushings and Mp3 endlinks.
Went on perfectly.
 
InFeXIoN said:
alrite, the MSP/Mp3 endlinks are about an inch longer than Regular protege's and p5's stock endlinkes. So yes you need them. After you get those, u will be fine. All i had were MSP horshoe brackets, Mp3 bushings and Mp3 endlinks.
Went on perfectly.


OK, wait a minute...It's been almost a month of hard driving, speed bumps, LA potholes, up & down steep driveways, and NO PROBLEMS. There is a handful of people that's using stock endlinks w/RB rear swaybars and no problem at all...Why spend the money on something you don't need. Like I said, if you're not that low, that shouldn't be a problem...BTW, I changed my oil over the weekend and had it on a lift, & they were fine.

RB rear sway bar + energy suspension bushings (grind the bolt hole to fit the mazda bolts) + stock endlinks

WiL
 
Well, we'll see. All i know its what i got to make it work perfectly without any problems, Only reason i have mp3 bushings from mazda is because i was in a bind at the time, but will be switching to AWR's replacement 20mm's as soon as i start to hear clunking which hasnt happend yet.
 
InFeXIoN said:
Well, we'll see. All i know its what i got to make it work perfectly without any problems, Only reason i have mp3 bushings from mazda is because i was in a bind at the time, but will be switching to AWR's replacement 20mm's as soon as i start to hear clunking which hasnt happend yet.

Well I'll let you guys know in a few years if there is a problem :)
So what causes clunking? It seems that most people that have that problem are in areas that snow (expanding and contracting during cold & hot temps?)

WiL
 
I think it has to do with where the sway bar is mounted. If it was mounted more towards the outside there wouldn't be as much bending that wrecks the bushings. When I took my stock swaybar out last week with 62k miles on it the bushings were fine :)

I have no clunking with the RB rear sway bar so far, probably because there are no endlinks connecting it haha.

I figured I'd get the sedan endlinks since I destroyed my stock ones getting the sway bar off.
 
aMaff said:
we changed the spring's on Foolish's car this weekend, and to get the endlinks off of the strut, we sprayed it down w/ some PB Blaster and then used a wratchet w/ a pipe (the handle from my raching jack lol) to break it loose. It worked better than I thought it would lol
I nearly fell off my chair when I saw your sig...really funny (rlaugh)

<img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a247/amaff/Random%20Pics/gun_show.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
 
aMaff said:
we changed the spring's on Foolish's car this weekend, and to get the endlinks off of the strut, we sprayed it down w/ some PB Blaster and then used a wratchet w/ a pipe (the handle from my raching jack lol) to break it loose. It worked better than I thought it would lol

Just changed out my struts on a 2001 sedan, old ass nuts and crap, rusted. broke one endlink but got the other three off taking things a bit slower.

deep socket, breaker bar, pb blaster, heat gun (not sure if this helped but I feel like it did) The nut would turn with the bolt on the endlink so it seemed like a pointless cause but i rotated it for about 3 1/3 cranks and 2 out of 4 let go and came right off, the other two i just chucked the allen key in there and waited till it caught on part of the lower arm.

Strut piston bolt was all about the shorty crescent and a hammer

So how bid a difference do aftermarket swaybars make? is it worth it on a daily driver (with a little boost to boot) Thinking about this in the future once i get used to how the blues feel, but if it's marginal I may just go without.
 
neoturner said:
So how bid a difference do aftermarket swaybars make? is it worth it on a daily driver (with a little boost to boot) Thinking about this in the future once i get used to how the blues feel, but if it's marginal I may just go without.

Makes a big difference, check the How to section re:RB rear swaybar install...I really like the way it handles since I got the RB rear sway.

WiL

Oh and still no problems with the stock endlinks (wiggle)
 
I'm lovin the way mine feels as well. There is this one turn where I'm coming up a hill just after a light and have to make a quick sharp left onto another uphill and my car would always understeer or the inside front wheel would lose traction, but today I did it and it was a little bit of FWD drifting action :P both front tires stayed gripping though.

note: my front swaybar is disconnected right now, no endlinks.
 
Rear sway good good 4 u, 19 or 21.5 all good. Best bang 4 buck in suspensionville, u do now.....
 
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