Quick Question for Transmission work

Read below to learn how to:
Properly Lock the Primary & Secondary shafts for removing/installing the lock nuts
Part Number for Oil Pass (also known as Oil Guide or Oil Funnel that goes from Transaxle case to 5th/reverse cover)
One trick to pressing in your new Axle Oil seals

I apologize if this has been answered somewhere, but after several days of searching & reading page after page of threads, I haven't found any answers.

How do you properly secure the primary & secondary shafts from turning while torquing down the lock nuts? I rigged up a method that involved a crescent wrench on one of the nuts and braced to the table while torquing the other, however it was a pain in the a$$ to secure the transmission properly to the workbench and afterwards it tipped over & broke the damn oil guide for the 5th/reverse gears. :mad:

Is there a better way to keep the shafts from rotating while torquing these nuts?

Thanks so much for all of the help!!
 
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OK....sounds/appears that this has never been covered on the forum, so when I went down to the mazda parts counter I talked w/ one of the service technicians & he knew exactly what to do.

How to Properly lock the Primary & Secondary shafts for removing/installing the lock nuts:
1) Remove Roll pin for the 5th gear shift fork
2) Manually slide shift fork & gear selector down to engage 5th gear
3) Using the actual gear selector change rod (that connects to your stick shift), engage 1st gear (which looking directly at it will be a slight turn counter-clockwise and then pulling out towards you)
4) This will force the gearing into a lock-out state that will keep your primary & secondary shafts stationary while removing/installing/torquing the lock nuts

Also for future reference (G15M-R transmission):
Part Number for Oil Pass (AKA Oil Guide, Oil Funnel, etc) = G560-17-540A
 
Also, the following is noteworthy for those undertaking rebuilding their transmission:

How to Press in your Axle Seals:
(if you are changing your clutch at the same time) Use your old throw-out bearing and place over your axle seal, then using a small piece of wood on the face of the bearing & a dead blow mallet slowly tap the seal into place....the bearing fits perfectly and if you are swapping it out it's otherwise trash anyways.

Finally - be VERY careful when torquing down the bolts on the transaxle case as well as the 5th/reverse cover! The transmission is made of cast aluminum, which is very prone to stripping out if you over-torque these bolts. I found it impossible to achieve the called out minimum 69 lb-ft of torque on the 5th/rev cover, so used Locktite Red High Strength and tightened as snugly as I felt comfortable with the ratchet. If you strip it you get a whole new set of problems.
 

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