Questions about Rotors & Pads

[Raegar]

Hey guys,

Had some questions about Rotors and Pads. I was told that I needed a brake job but seeing as I dont drive/stop hard, and the car is only just over 40kits hard to believe.
Regardless Ive been doing some research and just cant quite come to a decision. I was hoping that maybe someone here would be willing and experienced enough to give me some advice or direct me in the right path.

I called the closest Mazda Dealership to me and asked for OEM prices of front and rear rotors for my 2009 Mazda 3i 2.0L, and they told me $83.25/each. I honestly dont know whether thats a good price or notespecially since Im not 100% sure I need them.

As far as Pads go, Id like to change them and Ive seen and read that Akebono Euro1095 Ceramic ones are good but as far as my research took me they only come for the rear and I dont know whether they will fit the front or not. So I guess what Im looking for is whether or not the pricing on those OEM rotors seems right to you guys and what kind of recommendations you have for good pads Im not looking to go overboard on pricing as I dont do crazy driving on my car.

Thank you very much for any help, suggestions or recommendations!

 

[hat1018]

That rotor price is much higher than I would pay. Rock auto show several rotors at a third of that price. If it were me I would go with Centric rotors @40 each and what ever grade of pad you feel comfortable with. Be sure to bed them in properly.

 

[hornsfan10609]

The price is high but normal for OEM. You can have the rotors resurfaced for about $30 and re-use them. It is not uncommon for Mazda3s to need brakes at 40k but I have seen many make it much closer to 100k before needing brakes.

 

[Raegar]

Thank you guys, appreciate your input. I may end up going with Centric ones. As far as Pads go...any recommendations?

 

[hat1018]

OEM. No noise and almost no dust. Unless you plan to do a lot of performance (autocross or hpde) driving.

 

[brandini]

You're in Boston, of course you need brakes, you stop more per mile than someone in Oklahoma.

And for OEM rotors, realize that OEM rotors are flatter than most aftermarket rotors by about half. Factory LIMIT of runout is .004" and that's what most 3rd party rotors offer. NAPA Ultra Premium are .002" but they're also close to OEM prices, again, for a reason.

 

[IgoZoom]

My 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door will be 8-years old next month and has 96k miles on it. To my amazement, the front brake pads and rotors are still original! The pads still have 20-25% life left on them and the rotors are fine without a hint of vibration!

The rear pads were replaced at 72k miles but the rotors were left untouched and they're still fine also.

Is it freaky that my front pads and rotors have lasted so freakin' long???

 

[bbrich57]

I'm running EBC Green Stuffs and love 'em. It was a little harder to make them quiet (not squeal) though, but now everything is fine.

 

[Zotaga]

Rotors: I can't remember what the brand is, but mine are cross-drilled, slotted, and zinc plated.
Brakes: HPS Street Brake Pads (Performance)

I've had this setup now for 2 years and it's been a thing of beauty. I also decided to run Falken All-Seasons and the ride is smooth..

Hey guys,

Had some questions about Rotors and Pads. I was told that I needed a brake job but seeing as I don’t drive/stop hard, and the car is only just over 40k…it’s hard to believe.
Regardless I’ve been doing some research and just can’t quite come to a decision. I was hoping that maybe someone here would be willing and experienced enough to give me some advice or direct me in the right path.

I called the closest Mazda Dealership to me and asked for OEM prices of front and rear rotors for my 2009 Mazda 3i 2.0L, and they told me $83.25/each. I honestly don’t know whether that’s a good price or not…especially since I’m not 100% sure I need them.

As far as Pads go, I’d like to change them and I’ve seen and read that Akebono Euro1095 Ceramic ones are good but as far as my research took me they only come for the rear and I don’t know whether they will fit the front or not. So I guess what I’m looking for is whether or not the pricing on those OEM rotors seems right to you guys and what kind of recommendations you have for good pads – I’m not looking to go overboard on pricing as I don’t do crazy driving on my car.

Thank you very much for any help, suggestions or recommendations!

 

[road_runner]

Rotors: I can't remember what the brand is, but mine are cross-drilled, slotted, and zinc plated.
Brakes: HPS Street Brake Pads (Performance)

I've had this setup now for 2 years and it's been a thing of beauty. I also decided to run Falken All-Seasons and the ride is smooth..

I would also do this once my brake pads and disks needs replacement (currently at 33k km)
I mean going for at least slotted, as 100 $ more are worth the improved braking,
i don't drive that aggressively, but to stop even once with 2 or 3 meters less might be life-saving

 

[brandini]

Slotted rotors aren't going to help stop faster. New pad compounds don't outgas like old ones used to when heated. Also slotted rotors mean you can't resurface them like a blank rotor if ever needed since a typical lathe will get damaged by the slots as they need near constant-contact. The thing to look for that will make a difference is flatness. OEM limit is .004" and many aftermarket rotors are that when new, which kind of defeats the purpose. NAPA Ultra Premium are .002" new and that should make a difference in wear rates and contact quality, as well as speed of bed-in.

 

[road_runner]

of what i have read the grip is better in the slotted disks?

 

[brandini]

How would less pad to rotor contact be better?

 

[road_runner]

Well, no dust and less heating = better grip?

 

[brandini]

All else being equal the slotted disc would be better for about 1 rotation in wet weather by providing an escape route for unswept water. Other than that, price included, a blank rotor is just fine. It's what NASCAR uses, but they don't race in rain.