2013~2016: Question about replacing suspension components (rust/wear and tear)

[Digbicks1234]

Hey guys,

I currently have about 96,100 miles on my CX-5 and I just had some questions about replacing suspension components for the front/rears:

1. Which parts of the front suspension need to be replaced (dust boots/struts/coil spring etc.) if I were to replace the parts only?
2. Has anyone purchased separate components from the Mazda site and successfully compressed the springs themselves using one of the aftermarket compressors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)) or am I better off with just the KYB ones from Rock Auto? I am aware of the cheaper ones that require both sides to be tightened down but I probably won't get them due to safety reasons.
3. Should any of the suspension components be replaced due to rust (lower/upper control arms)? It seems that there are tears starting to form on the bushings of some of the suspension components so I figure it would be good to replace them. My ride is relatively bumpy on uneven surfaces and it doesn't seem so stable on the highway with winds.
4. Any other tips and tricks for removing rusty bolts and suspension components?
5. Am I better off just selling/trading in the car?

I think I might be better off just replacing the front struts/shocks and then the bushings for the front/rear stabilizer bars. Attached are some photos for reference of the rust that I am referring to.

Parts that I am planning to replace:

Stabilizer Bar Bushings:

Front Suspension Items:

Rear Suspension Items:

 

[Jmaz]

Some observations from past and recent (like finished today) experience. No particular order.
1) replacing bushings that appear dry and tiny cracks sometimes makes little difference depending where they are located. So attack the major one's first that influence ride and handling quality the most.
2) Surface rust doesn't indicate a weakened component.

3) No special tricks but liberal, multiple applications of penetrant beforehand. I use Liquid Wrench at the moment and never had the success attributed to PB Blaster so I soak the parts instead of spray and immediately remove. Toolwise, a pair of needlenose vise grip pliers ( recently got the 9" pair at Harbor Freight-- Bremen brand made in Taiwan, not the $3 cheaper made in China one's- for $10 they are great) saved my butt removing the stabilizer bar links which have to be removed to change the front struts. Maybe you have a set already. Also an impact wrench.

4) On the front struts, if not using a loaded assembly, replace item #13 lower spring seat. It's not circled in red. Obviously it's included with a new loaded strut assembly. Never , never, never use Monroe Quik Struts. Garbage!!! From past experience (twice I might add most ashamedly). But----- do your front struts need replacing?

5) Stabilizer bar bushings are generally easy and economical to replace. And do make a difference in ride and noise. I'd put those on the list to change. BUT, do not use polyurethane bushings if you want a quiet, comfortable ride. Being alot stiffer than rubber they transmit road shock and vibration. That was my experience but most aggravating was the vibration transmitted to the steering wheel making my hands numb. They got yanked fast. Besides, who needs a Buick LeSabre that handles like a slot car. Also found it helpful to carefully clean the threads (using a tap) in the holes for the stabilizer bar bushing bracket bolts. They always seemed full of gunk.
And consider changing the stabilizer bar links (item #14 not circled in red). I just changed mine today at 57,428 miles.

6) Front lower control arms. If they need replaced ( and that's if the bushings and/or ball joints are bad)I'd replace the whole assembly with OEM Mazda when the time comes. No screwing around pressing in and out bushings and ball joint. They include new bushings and ball joint installed. I've seen them online for $150-160 each. I assume you have a suitable torque wrench. The mid-torque values are about 115 ft-lb for the 2 vertical bolts (items #7,8) and about 160 for the front horizontal bolt (#6).
**** Years ago, I replaced control arms (that had still good ball joints) thinking the bushings were worse than they looked, all in the effort to get a quieter (no clunks) firmer ride. It was an expensive experience that did not make a big difference. The problem was, and pay attention here, the SUBFRAME to BODY bushings were bad. If those are bad then road shock and noise gets transmitted and ride suffers .

And finally, I'd keep the car and replace some parts if it's been reliable and you like it. Probably has a lot of miles left . It's a used car now and is going to require some parts. If your road conditions are lousy and you do a lot of stop and go/ short hops (my situation) it's going to wear out faster than the cars of those who report high miles with minimal parts replaced because it's highway miles (just look at the short time frames for big mileage reported) which experience much lower power train , suspension, steering and brake wear.

That's all I got for now off the top of my head. Good luck.

 

[Anchorman]

I’d change the drop links (no 5 in the first pic) and the too mounts of the rear shocks are prone to breaking. They come complete with rear shocks and at that mileage I’d replace the lot.

 

[Digbicks1234]

Some observations from past and recent (like finished today) experience. No particular order.
1) replacing bushings that appear dry and tiny cracks sometimes makes little difference depending where they are located. So attack the major one's first that influence ride and handling quality the most.
2) Surface rust doesn't indicate a weakened component.

3) No special tricks but liberal, multiple applications of penetrant beforehand. I use Liquid Wrench at the moment and never had the success attributed to PB Blaster so I soak the parts instead of spray and immediately remove. Toolwise, a pair of needlenose vise grip pliers ( recently got the 9" pair at Harbor Freight-- Bremen brand made in Taiwan, not the $3 cheaper made in China one's- for $10 they are great) saved my butt removing the stabilizer bar links which have to be removed to change the front struts. Maybe you have a set already. Also an impact wrench.

4) On the front struts, if not using a loaded assembly, replace item #13 lower spring seat. It's not circled in red. Obviously it's included with a new loaded strut assembly. Never , never, never use Monroe Quik Struts. Garbage!!! From past experience (twice I might add most ashamedly). But----- do your front struts need replacing?

5) Stabilizer bar bushings are generally easy and economical to replace. And do make a difference in ride and noise. I'd put those on the list to change. BUT, do not use polyurethane bushings if you want a quiet, comfortable ride. Being alot stiffer than rubber they transmit road shock and vibration. That was my experience but most aggravating was the vibration transmitted to the steering wheel making my hands numb. They got yanked fast. Besides, who needs a Buick LeSabre that handles like a slot car. Also found it helpful to carefully clean the threads (using a tap) in the holes for the stabilizer bar bushing bracket bolts. They always seemed full of gunk.
And consider changing the stabilizer bar links (item #14 not circled in red). I just changed mine today at 57,428 miles.

6) Front lower control arms. If they need replaced ( and that's if the bushings and/or ball joints are bad)I'd replace the whole assembly with OEM Mazda when the time comes. No screwing around pressing in and out bushings and ball joint. They include new bushings and ball joint installed. I've seen them online for $150-160 each. I assume you have a suitable torque wrench. The mid-torque values are about 115 ft-lb for the 2 vertical bolts (items #7,8) and about 160 for the front horizontal bolt (#6).
**** Years ago, I replaced control arms (that had still good ball joints) thinking the bushings were worse than they looked, all in the effort to get a quieter (no clunks) firmer ride. It was an expensive experience that did not make a big difference. The problem was, and pay attention here, the SUBFRAME to BODY bushings were bad. If those are bad then road shock and noise gets transmitted and ride suffers .

And finally, I'd keep the car and replace some parts if it's been reliable and you like it. Probably has a lot of miles left . It's a used car now and is going to require some parts. If your road conditions are lousy and you do a lot of stop and go/ short hops (my situation) it's going to wear out faster than the cars of those who report high miles with minimal parts replaced because it's highway miles (just look at the short time frames for big mileage reported) which experience much lower power train , suspension, steering and brake wear.

That's all I got for now off the top of my head. Good luck.

This is super useful information, really appreciate you writing this up !! For my front struts, I definitely feel a big thud when hitting imperfections on the road or multiple bounces over imperfections. The east coast is notorious for horrendous roads so it seems that replacing the front struts is the best course of action to fix this issue. I will probably not replace most of the suspension items as it is definitely going to be in the $1,200 - $1,400 ballpark including an alignment afterwards but just the major ones as you mentioned.

Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing your stabilizer bar links at 57,428 miles? It seems a little early to replace them unless it's broken or for a peace of mind.

 

[Digbicks1234]

I’d change the drop links (no 5 in the first pic) and the too mounts of the rear shocks are prone to breaking. They come complete with rear shocks and at that mileage I’d replace the lot.

Good point, I will do that. I did replace the rear stabilizer links and the rear shocks last year since they were both broken.

 

[Jmaz]

This is super useful information, really appreciate you writing this up !! For my front struts, I definitely feel a big thud when hitting imperfections on the road or multiple bounces over imperfections. The east coast is notorious for horrendous roads so it seems that replacing the front struts is the best course of action to fix this issue. I will probably not replace most of the suspension items as it is definitely going to be in the $1,200 - $1,400 ballpark including an alignment afterwards but just the major ones as you mentioned.

Just out of curiosity, why are you replacing your stabilizer bar links at 57,428 miles? It seems a little early to replace them unless it's broken or for a peace of mind.

I replaced the front stabilizer bar links because of a continuous knocking sound over even the smallest bumps. One of the little ball and socket joints was loose when grabbed and shaken and the boot was oozing grease. That was the culprit after eliminating anything rattling around the glovebox and securing the radiator from moving fore and aft. Sounds are hard to locate sometimes, especially if there are more than one thing making noise ( I spoke about this in another post about chasing clunks and rattles. Incidentally, that was another one of my posts that got zero responses. Maybe people think I'm out there in the ozone somewhere and don't know what to say. LOL , I don't know).
Anyway, It fixed the clunk and to my surprise tightened up the front suspension and then remembered how I felt the same improvement when replacing end links (of a different design- I've never had this style before) on previous cars. Both links must have been worn more than I realized.

Regarding your "big thud". It would help to be more specific if possible. To me a thud is a duller sound than a knock which is sharper sound. A clunk is somewhere in the middle. This isn't criticism as we all have our ways of describing things. Helps to narrow down possible noise culprits.
Have you done the old tried and true method of checking rubber bushings with a big pry bar while looking for excessive movement from being torn or wallowed out in the center. When doing this you may also find that a bushing that looks dry and surface cracked is actually firm, black rubber underneath if poked at .
Obviously your east coast roads are torture but the corrosion in your pictures is kind of amazing. They salt the roads here but my older 2014 has nowhere near the rust.
I know the focus here has been on worn suspension and associated noise, but I have to ask if the tie rod end boots and the ball joint boots are good. I mentioned in another post that all 4 of mine were split and with your tortuous conditions an inspection is warranted if not already done.

Finally, your car is 'there' and I am 'here' so I can't see your car up close, but judging what you describe, and the miles on your car, I'd certainly consider starting with replacing the front stabilizer bar bushings and both stabilizer bar end links. They are the lesser expensive parts and can make a big improvement so the benefit/cost ratio is high. Highly suggest OEM Mazda parts only. Why? Because of the proper durometer (rubber hardness) of the stabilizer bushings specified by Mazda to get the original ride and handling back. It's not worth it to play roulette with other parts from the auto parts chain store where the rubber comes from China, Turkey or who knows where or if it matches OEM specifications. There's roulette with Dorman parts too.
For the end links I chose OEM Mazda because it's a quality part (yup, made in Japan) and because the aftermarket brands weren't that much cheaper, Moog parts quality has suffered in recent years and the other heavy duty versions had grease fittings and I ain't about to go back to the hassle of having to grease fittings ( These parts were on the Rockauto.com website) Still got the grease gun but don't buy greasable fittings.
Well, gotta go, so good evenin' or good mornin' to you.

 

[Digbicks1234]

I replaced the front stabilizer bar links because of a continuous knocking sound over even the smallest bumps. One of the little ball and socket joints was loose when grabbed and shaken and the boot was oozing grease. That was the culprit after eliminating anything rattling around the glovebox and securing the radiator from moving fore and aft. Sounds are hard to locate sometimes, especially if there are more than one thing making noise ( I spoke about this in another post about chasing clunks and rattles. Incidentally, that was another one of my posts that got zero responses. Maybe people think I'm out there in the ozone somewhere and don't know what to say. LOL , I don't know).
Anyway, It fixed the clunk and to my surprise tightened up the front suspension and then remembered how I felt the same improvement when replacing end links (of a different design- I've never had this style before) on previous cars. Both links must have been worn more than I realized.

That would make sense why you replaced the links. I don't think you're out there as you know your car the best. My car used to have rattles and creaks as well when I first got it and every time I drove during the winter time, I would always hear something going on in the center dash console but it seems to have cleared up as the years passed. My guess is that it has something to do with the heat/cold expansion/contraction of the plastic but it was starting to get on my nerve. Glad you were able to figure out that clunking noise.

Regarding your "big thud". It would help to be more specific if possible. To me a thud is a duller sound than a knock which is sharper sound. A clunk is somewhere in the middle. This isn't criticism as we all have our ways of describing things. Helps to narrow down possible noise culprits.

I should've been more clear, it seems like the front struts are bottoming out when I go over certain bumps/imperfections on the road instead of actually mitigating the effect to the entire vehicle so it feels like a hard thud. No clunks at all or knocks that I am aware of. I hope that I am explaining that properly but I do not feel like the struts are doing it's job or maybe I am still not used to the rock hard Mazda suspension....

Have you done the old tried and true method of checking rubber bushings with a big pry bar while looking for excessive movement from being torn or wallowed out in the center. When doing this you may also find that a bushing that looks dry and surface cracked is actually firm, black rubber underneath if poked at .

I have not seen this method before being employed, would you happen to have a video showing how it's done?
Obviously your east coast roads are torture but the corrosion in your pictures is kind of amazing. They salt the roads here but my older 2014 has nowhere near the rust.
I know the focus here has been on worn suspension and associated noise, but I have to ask if the tie rod end boots and the ball joint boots are good. I mentioned in another post that all 4 of mine were split and with your tortuous conditions an inspection is warranted if not already done.

Good question, I would probably need to spend more time in analyzing the tie rod end other suspension components but so far, it seems like the front lower control arm ball joints are starting to form tears on the rubber material (see attached pictures). I think the salt here is probably more corrosive or maybe I'm just unfortunate haha

Finally, your car is 'there' and I am 'here' so I can't see your car up close, but judging what you describe, and the miles on your car, I'd certainly consider starting with replacing the front stabilizer bar bushings and both stabilizer bar end links. They are the lesser expensive parts and can make a big improvement so the benefit/cost ratio is high. Highly suggest OEM Mazda parts only. Why? Because of the proper durometer (rubber hardness) of the stabilizer bushings specified by Mazda to get the original ride and handling back. It's not worth it to play roulette with other parts from the auto parts chain store where the rubber comes from China, Turkey or who knows where or if it matches OEM specifications. There's roulette with Dorman parts too.
For the end links I chose OEM Mazda because it's a quality part (yup, made in Japan) and because the aftermarket brands weren't that much cheaper, Moog parts quality has suffered in recent years and the other heavy duty versions had grease fittings and I ain't about to go back to the hassle of having to grease fittings ( These parts were on the Rockauto.com website) Still got the grease gun but don't buy greasable fittings.
Well, gotta go, so good evenin' or good mornin' to you.

I will definitely try to replace the front/rear stabilizer bar bushings + bar end links first with OEM but I am debating whether or not to replace the front/lower lower control arms as well as I don't want to pay for a second alignment again in the future as the bushings are torn....Thanks for the tips!!

 

[Jack Rabbit]

Not a suspension guy but while ya have it apart, ya might want to fluid film the rusted areas if you're worried about it... Just don't get it on the rubber gaskets/bushings, etc.
Mixed info , some says it will ruin rubber, others say does no harm.

Fluid filmed my 3 year ole cpo CX5 as soon as got it.. looks great after winter and fluid film absorbed into the rusted areas..

On my rusted tools, I cleaned with a homemade vinegar gel paste then used fluid film on them. FF works great.

And after having the spring seat area of previous suv frame rust out, I give those areas extra attention.

If worried about accidental spray onto rubber areas, just cover rubber, and you can also get fluid film and use small paint brush instead of spray can, etc.

 

[Jmaz]

OK, having just reviewed these latest pictures, here goes:

1) the stabilizer bar bushing clamps/brackets aren't rusted too bad and can be reused.

2) lower control arm bushings are shot (pic#13). Replacement control arms come with new bushings and ball joints thus saving having to replace the ball joint boots that are starting to crack and new ball joints will tighten up things. Plan on an alignment.

3) the tie rod end boots are starting to crack also. Aftermarket replacement boots are available but you have to measure your boots to get the correct size. If those are the original tie rod ends and an alignment is needed due to changing other components, if it were me, I'd just replace with new tie rod ends. IIRC the OEM Mazda are around $30 each. Problem solved, easy job and no brainer in my book. And again a quality part and one less thing to worry about later and then need another alignment. ------ I've heard the old "just count the number of threads so you don't need an alignment" when replacing tie rod ends but what's to say the the thread 'lead in' is the same place on the new part relative to the ball stud axis.
I once locked a large pair of vernier calipers to maintain the same distance from frame to wheel spindle and still needed alignment ( I think it was 0.15* off or something--- long time ago)

So there you have it, if it were mine, I'd replace the lower control arms, tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar end links and obviously finished with an alignment. If you do the work yourself the cost even with OEM Mazda parts isn't that hateful considering what is being replaced and taking into account the cost of shop labor. I'd imagine in the northeast it's over $150 /hour.

Well, that's all for now and again good luck. Later

OH YEA, I almost forgot about the struts. You could replace these parts and then before getting an alignment (get the tie rods close as possible to prevent pull) drive it to see if you think it needs new struts and then decide whether to get new front struts or just an alignment for now and new struts later.

 

[Digbicks1234]

OK, having just reviewed these latest pictures, here goes:

1) the stabilizer bar bushing clamps/brackets aren't rusted too bad and can be reused.

2) lower control arm bushings are shot (pic#13). Replacement control arms come with new bushings and ball joints thus saving having to replace the ball joint boots that are starting to crack and new ball joints will tighten up things. Plan on an alignment.

3) the tie rod end boots are starting to crack also. Aftermarket replacement boots are available but you have to measure your boots to get the correct size. If those are the original tie rod ends and an alignment is needed due to changing other components, if it were me, I'd just replace with new tie rod ends. IIRC the OEM Mazda are around $30 each. Problem solved, easy job and no brainer in my book. And again a quality part and one less thing to worry about later and then need another alignment. ------ I've heard the old "just count the number of threads so you don't need an alignment" when replacing tie rod ends but what's to say the the thread 'lead in' is the same place on the new part relative to the ball stud axis.
I once locked a large pair of vernier calipers to maintain the same distance from frame to wheel spindle and still needed alignment ( I think it was 0.15* off or something--- long time ago)

So there you have it, if it were mine, I'd replace the lower control arms, tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar end links and obviously finished with an alignment. If you do the work yourself the cost even with OEM Mazda parts isn't that hateful considering what is being replaced and taking into account the cost of shop labor. I'd imagine in the northeast it's over $150 /hour.

Well, that's all for now and again good luck. Later

OH YEA, I almost forgot about the struts. You could replace these parts and then before getting an alignment (get the tie rods close as possible to prevent pull) drive it to see if you think it needs new struts and then decide whether to get new front struts or just an alignment for now and new struts later.

Good advice! No idea about labor costs but everything seems to cost an arm and a leg here. Went to two shops and one tried to charge $100 for an inspection of my vehicle noise and another charged $75 but both will negate the costs if I opt for them to perform work. I will most likely just replace the struts in the process since it will take me more time to jack the car up and bring all the tools out. I am beginning to piece together all of the parts right now. Hoping it will alleviate the squeal/creaking noise when turning my steering wheel to the left/ right as well unless it's a CV joint issue....

 

[Jmaz]

Good advice! No idea about labor costs but everything seems to cost an arm and a leg here. Went to two shops and one tried to charge $100 for an inspection of my vehicle noise and another charged $75 but both will negate the costs if I opt for them to perform work. I will most likely just replace the struts in the process since it will take me more time to jack the car up and bring all the tools out. I am beginning to piece together all of the parts right now. Hoping it will alleviate the squeal/creaking noise when turning my steering wheel to the left/ right as well unless it's a CV joint issue....

Can't tell for sure about the creaking noise in the video but be damm sure to replace the strut mounts (#17 -- you have it circled along with other parts) because it contains a bearing because the strut assembly rotates with the wheels when turned. They go bad and will cause a clunk that won't go away. People make the mistake of not replacing them when replacing struts. They are not expensive and to not do so is false economy. In fact, maybe the creaking is the strut mounts. I really doubt it's a cv joint making that noise. They make a clicking/knocking sound when pulling out while making a turn when they first start to fail.
Good luck, sounds like you are getting it together. Later.

 

[Jmaz]

Hey Digbicks1234, do want to mention in case you are not aware: stabilizer bar bushings are tightened down with the car at RIDE HEIGHT (I use a torque wrench after cleaning out the holes so the torque is more accurate). Prevents twisting the bushings when the car's weight is lowered onto the wheels and early failure. You want the stabilizer bar in its normal position before tightening down the clamps. This is standard procedure and soft new bushings can really grip the bar when tightened down.

 

[Digbicks1234]

Hey Digbicks1234, do want to mention in case you are not aware: stabilizer bar bushings are tightened down with the car at RIDE HEIGHT (I use a torque wrench after cleaning out the holes so the torque is more accurate). Prevents twisting the bushings when the car's weight is lowered onto the wheels and early failure. You want the stabilizer bar in its normal position before tightening down the clamps. This is standard procedure and soft new bushings can really grip the bar when tightened down.

Hey Jmaz, I wouldn't have known that unless you mentioned it. How would you tighten down the stabilizer bar bushings with the car down at ride height? Just curious since there wouldn't be enough room to get under the car and work on it unless the wheels were on wheel blocks/ramps or something else like one of these platforms below:

 

[Jmaz]

Hey Jmaz, I wouldn't have known that unless you mentioned it. How would you tighten down the stabilizer bar bushings with the car down at ride height? Just curious since there wouldn't be enough room to get under the car and work on it unless the wheels were on wheel blocks/ramps or something else like one of these platforms below:

View attachment 309689

However you want to do it safely. Either using blocks or extra jack stand under the control arm. Whatever won't slip off. Never tried ramps. It's been so long since I've last done any I think I blocked one side and on the other put the jack saddle under the ball joint and raised until the car just came off of the jack stand a fraction of an inch. Then tightened the clamps. As an esteemed Mazdas247 member use your ingenuity.

That 'platform' isn't a platform. It's called a grease pit for doing under car work and lubrication. Many old time garages had them. I've even seen them at a Valvoline oil change place.

 

[ColtX-5]

I don't see anything pictured that need replacing, certainly not bushings.

At 96k miles, it is logical to think the shocks and struts are worn enough to consider replacement. Even that is a little on the obsessive side.

 

[ruthrj]

I don't see anything pictured that need replacing, certainly not bushings.

At 96k miles, it is logical to think the shocks and struts are worn enough to consider replacement. Even that is a little on the obsessive side.

One of my rear shocks was busted at 80k miles : ( it took me a little while to figure that out though as I wrongly attributed poor handling at highway speeds to aging tires and road construction. If your car is feeling kind of squirrely at higher speeds I’d check for leaking shocks and/or struts to be on the safe side.

 

[Jmaz]

I don't see anything pictured that need replacing, certainly not bushings.

At 96k miles, it is logical to think the shocks and struts are worn enough to consider replacement. Even that is a little on the obsessive side.

Take another look at picture #13 of the lower control arm bushing that is distorted and torn with rubber pulled away from the ribbed metal center bushing.
If you've followed the OP's posts you'll find that he's already replaced rear suspension parts and because of the hard miles on his car due to road and environmental conditions has front end noise and rust and wear on suspension components. That should be evident from examining the copious amount of pictures he's posted.
At the mileage he has I recommended replacing the stabilizer bar bushings because they are cheap and easier to do while already doing other work and will improve the ride and it's a matter of time before they need changing anyway. Same with the stabilizer bar links. Tightens up the front end and eliminates another thing to go bad and cause noise (I posted about changing mine at 58,000 miles).
The tie rod end boots are cracking and at 96,000 miles are worn enough to replace considering the cost of both tie rod ends is less than the cost of an alignment that would be needed afterward anyway. Replacing parts piecemeal can get expensive when the cost of an alignment is required each time. An alignment is going to be needed anyway after the lower control arms are replaced so the idea is to replace all items that are at or near the end of their lifespan and then get an alignment. Also, the new control arms come with new bushings and ball joints already installed so that takes care of any bushing or ball joint issues with the original ones.

The OP is also considering new front struts also at the same time. Seems like a good idea considering the mileage and tortuous road conditions. Besides, even if not leaking yet, struts and shocks wear slowly enough to not notice the degree of degradation until they are replaced. Haven't you ever remarked about the difference after getting new shocks? Replace all of it and then get the alignment. Peace of mind is worth something too, as not having to go back in when the next thing fails in the near future. Granted, not everything has failed/worn out yet but why try to milk the last few miles out of mostly worn components and then have go back in and fix the car again.

 

[Jmaz]

One of my rear shocks was busted at 80k miles : ( it took me a little while to figure that out though as I wrongly attributed poor handling at highway speeds to aging tires and road construction. If your car is feeling kind of squirrely at higher speeds I’d check for leaking shocks and/or struts to be on the safe side.

I hear ya. Been through that myself on a previous car. On a rough road I could barely keep it in my lane because of the back end swaying around. The shock was covered with oil and road gravel. Didn't even notice it driving around town or moderate speeds. At 70 mph it was a different story.

 

[ruthrj]

I hear ya. Been through that myself on a previous car. On a rough road I could barely keep it in my lane because of the back end swaying around. The shock was covered with oil and road gravel. Didn't even notice it driving around town or moderate speeds. At 70 mph it was a different story.

Exactly! I had moved to a new area within the last few months so I’m thinking, man this highway sucks XD

Nope. The rear of the car is literally bouncing on the rear left corner lol