Quarter mile tips and info!?

[turbo 4]

I ran an ss cobalt with a stage 2 supercharger and carbon fiber hood. I have a hks intake, turbo xs bov , hks cat back. We did a 40mph roll he got me by half a car, we did another roll at 55mph and i got him by 1 car 1/2. I dont think you should have a problem.

 

[MM BOOST]

this is the turbocharged one, not the supercharged.

 

[MM BOOST]

So you have a intake, inlet pipe, and full TBE, I'm not an expert or anything, but you probably are close to the same power as he. I suggest you go get it dynoed before you run. With your rear MM, springs, and wider tires you should have no problem hooking up. I can tell an amazing difference in traction simply by going to some stickier slightly wider tires. I believe one of the main reasons that the Cobalt is faster than the MS3 stock for stock is the tires.

Find an old road and practice your launches!

Edit: Hey, was just checking out the Cobalt forums to see what it takes for them to put out that kind of power and I found this: http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=160740

I think its your friend, note that it was a Dynojet, which are known to read the highest of any dyno.

yeah thats him man.

 

[Circle9]

That is a lot of power for just drop-in filter and tune, what do they do, up the boost like crazy?

 

[turbo 4]

Still he told me that when he got the work done at gm that they told him the car was at about 270hp. And he is also at 15psi with the stage 2, Im not positive but i think that's pretty close to what it can be with a turbocharged one.(bolt)

 

[Circle9]

Ok, so they pretty much just doubled the boost, that's all. I wonder what the longer term effects may be like on those engines?

 

[turbo 4]

I think not to good

 

[turbo 4]

But taking the fact that he spent about 5k to put a stage 2 i would expect alot more hp than that. Because if we were to put 5k into a ms3 we would be unstopable.

 

[Circle9]

Maybe he had a turbo put in when he went up a "stage", that would help explain the $5,000.

 

[turbo 4]

Na, I could here the supercharger. And 5k-6k is what toyota charges to put one on a scion tc.

 

[Circle9]

But it wouldn't make sense that he spent 5k if he already had the supercharger.
Did they charge him that much for a smaller pulley, injectors, and a tune?

 

[MSMS3]

Five thousand dollars! Say, just get some DOT drag radials for the front. Wheels and tires together might set you back what - maybe $700 or less. With basically that mod alone and practice there are guys here running in the high 12's. The problem with our cars and with his is the traction problem when launching.

Drag radials will do wonders for a whole lot less money, if you are serious and you want to win that race.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Drag radials will do wonders for a whole lot less money, if you are serious and you want to win that race.

Preach it, brother! They were worth over a half-second on my car. $360 for tires, find some old 2nd Gen Probe GT or FD RX7 wheels for cheap, win the race.

The track opens here in two weeks!

 

[Circle9]

Hey FMOS, do you remember what your 60' was when you ran the 13.0 at 107 mph?

 

[john blutarski]

Preach it, brother! They were worth over a half-second on my car. $360 for tires, find some old 2nd Gen Probe GT or FD RX7 wheels for cheap, win the race.

The track opens here in two weeks!

Hey man, do you know what year Probe wheels will fit? Are they regular Probe or Probe GT rims? I'm looking to get a pair of 16" drag radials but all the FD rims I've seen are too expensive.

Thanks!

 

[FMOS Racing]

Hey FMOS, do you remember what your 60' was when you ran the 13.0 at 107 mph?

It was a 1.858. I think there's more to be had. Unfortunately, it was the last night of the season when I borrowed the drag radials so I didn't get much seat time with them.

Hey man, do you know what year Probe wheels will fit? Are they regular Probe or Probe GT rims? I'm looking to get a pair of 16" drag radials but all the FD rims I've seen are too expensive.

The 2nd Gen GT wheels ('93+) are the ones to get. That's about the smallest wheel that can clear the stock MS3 brakes. I'd recommend the earlier painted aluminum "slicer" wheels if you can find them. They're lighter than the later chromed "swirly" wheels.

I picked up a set of four FD wheels with servicable tires (though two of the tires had to go away because of the drag tires being installed) locally for $200. They're a little beat up, but a bit of Duplicolor wheel paint will make them pretty presentable from 10'.

 

[john blutarski]

^^^ thanks man, I just found a set of Probe GT rims (the lighter ones) for $50 on craigslist... now I just need to get a pair of DR's!!! What size are you running? What size do you think would be best on these 16x7" rims?

 

[FMOS Racing]

How big of a hurry are you in to get the tires? Here's why I ask:

I have two sets of drag radials now, the wide, tall BFGs I ran last fall and the the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. I will test them back-to-back two weeks from today (weather permitting) when the track opens. The old school in me says that the shorter tires are going to be a gearing advantage since I already have to shift into fifth by the end of a pass, but part of me is worried that it will be too much gear and not enough contact patch in first and second gears and that will lead to traction problems.

So, I'd hate to make a recommendation and then regret it in two weeks. If you can wait that long, great. If not, I think my recommendation would be to get the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. The other options are the 245/50-16 Nitto and the 255/50-16 Hoosiers. The Nittos would be a great compromise on size, but I have absolutely no experience with their tires on the drag strip, so it's hard to make any educated comments.

 

[john blutarski]

How big of a hurry are you in to get the tires? Here's why I ask:

I have two sets of drag radials now, the wide, tall BFGs I ran last fall and the the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. I will test them back-to-back two weeks from today (weather permitting) when the track opens. The old school in me says that the shorter tires are going to be a gearing advantage since I already have to shift into fifth by the end of a pass, but part of me is worried that it will be too much gear and not enough contact patch in first and second gears and that will lead to traction problems.

So, I'd hate to make a recommendation and then regret it in two weeks. If you can wait that long, great. If not, I think my recommendation would be to get the 225/50-16 Hoosiers. The other options are the 245/50-16 Nitto and the 255/50-16 Hoosiers. The Nittos would be a great compromise on size, but I have absolutely no experience with their tires on the drag strip, so it's hard to make any educated comments.

I'm in no hurry... I am limited though because the probe rims are only 7 inches wide and so I don't know that I'd be OK running anything wider than a 225 width tire. This might defeat the purpose of running DR's in the first place. I'm looking at a set of slightly used Avon Tech R-A competition tires but they are more designed for road race than drag. For true drag radials, I really don't see any options in the size I want (225/50/16) but I'm thinking even road race slicks should hook much better than any summer street tire I can run.

Let me know how it works out with those Hoosiers.... are those the A6?? Do you think I'd be OK running the Nitto 245's on these 7" rims?? I mean if its just for at the dragstrip, then I'd think it should be OK.

 

[FMOS Racing]

The 255/60-16 BFGs I have are on Probe GT wheels right now and a 7" wheel is the minimum recommended by BFG. The 245/60-16 Nittos say a 7" wheel is minimum. The 255/60-16 Hoosiers do not recommend a 7" wheel.

If I'm unhappy with the Hoosiers (their DOT slicks have served me very well on other applications and that's the main reason I went with their drag radial), I'll order a pair of the Nittos. They're $25 ea cheaper than the Hoosiers from Summit to boot.

(Edit : I keep typing wheel size as 15". Habit!)