Quarter mile tips and info!?

You should mainly practice you launching, that will be the most difficult part to get down. I was having to shift into 4th in the 1/8, so I believe you will need to switch into 5th in the 1/4. I believe that the top of 4th gear is 104mph, if so, I suggest you shift into 5th as to not go down the other side of the powerband.
 
MM where are you guys gonna run? you head out to Dinwiddie? The no lift shift is awsome, but anybody have anything against powershifting? people always seem to run better times, but i no its hell on the car(motor,tranny)

ill lend you my cobb AP for the race (shady)
 
From what I've heard, the no-lift-shift feature knocks about 2 tenths off the 1/4. Just get a WOT box, then you'll have what he does!
 
MM mentioned colder plugs.

what kind of plugs to get, did you notice any change in performance or the way the car ran after the plugs?
 
will there be a difference in performance and the way the car runs?

which to get

http://www.street unit . com/DENSO_IRIDIUM_SPARK_PLUGS_MS3_MS6_CX_7_p/itv22.htm

or

(this one says 2-steps colder) whats the difference between the two and which to buy
http://www.street unit . com/DENSO_IRIDIUM_SPARK_PLUGS_MS3_MS6_CX_7_p/itv24.htm
 
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V22 is best for a basic bolt setup, v24 wil do also but there is talk that they wont last as long.
 
I skimmed through the posts, so I appologize if I repeat something.

I ran a 13.8 last year with just an upgraded BPV and a catless test pipe. I had an MBC installed, too, but it wasn't working properly and I was only getting to the stock boost levels. Just lower the tire pressure in the front to 25psi and raise the psi in the rears to 40psi...that will allow for better grip on the launch and less rolling resistance up top. Take out the spare tire, also...it's pretty heavy. Quick slip the clutch to launch...dumping it will just cause wheelspin. Make sure you have the traction control turned off. Shift around 5800 like you said. The turbo loses efficiency after 5500. Start shifting around then and keep your foot in it a bit to keep the turbo spooled.

The new Cobalt SS's are quick...don't be too disappointed if you lose.
 
Yep be sure to slip the clutch a bit when shifting. At least thats what I do. I ran a 13.7 at 98 in my stock speed 6. Speaking of which, whenever I watch Japanese racing videos / top gear or whatever they shift as fast as possible with the clutch. Clutch goes in and out in under a second. When I do that . . . its bad.

Just practice your launching because thats really all it is. Launch and the 1st - 2nd shift.
 
Yeah I raced a kid locally from a stoplight - 60mph and tried quickshifting (the under a second thing) and got rejected from 2nd gear... sucks missing a shift, however, the other kid didnt really know what he was doing or what he was up against so when i got back into it i actually ended up just about even with him to 60. lol

just make sure that like they said keep your foot in a bit to keep the turbo spooled up, and have fun!!! win or lose, all that s*** talking should stop when he sees how evenly matched or even better your car is, plus if he DOES make some smartass comment... remember, your car is bigger and can comfortably fit 5 people.. so he either just got his 2-door chevy "ss" badged car beat or almost beat by a 5 door hatchback. :) its a last resort excuse, lol
 
I've never had an issue with 2nd gear when shifting under a second, but I know others have. I can now shift as fast as someone blinks :D
 
Assuming you're racing at a drag strip with an x-mas tree...

Your dad will probably tell you (if he hasn't already) that if you see the green light, you're late. You'll probably get a sportsman tree (yellow lights count down) and you're going to go at the last yellow.. by the time you react and the car rolls out of the beams the green light will be on. You might not get to the finish line quickest, but you might get there first.... Holeshots are a wonderful thing.
 
I skimmed through the posts, so I appologize if I repeat something.

I ran a 13.8 last year with just an upgraded BPV and a catless test pipe. I had an MBC installed, too, but it wasn't working properly and I was only getting to the stock boost levels. Just lower the tire pressure in the front to 25psi and raise the psi in the rears to 40psi...that will allow for better grip on the launch and less rolling resistance up top. Take out the spare tire, also...it's pretty heavy. Quick slip the clutch to launch...dumping it will just cause wheelspin. Make sure you have the traction control turned off. Shift around 5800 like you said. The turbo loses efficiency after 5500. Start shifting around then and keep your foot in it a bit to keep the turbo spooled.

wont matter if the turbo loses effeciency, or if you severely come off the powerband IF the force applied to the wheels is still higher than it will be in the next gear. I drive an atmo protege, and it really loses power after 6k, but my calculated shift points are still over 11000rpm (which I cannot get to) so shifting at redline (7k) makes more use of the available power and gearing than shifting when everything is running "efficiently"...that is to say, even though i lose some 30hp after 6k, i go faster by shifting at 7k than i ever would shifting at 6k (on the 3 shifts i make, it equates to over half a second difference).

I haven't calculated the gearing on the speed3...someone give me a dyno chart, and the gear ratios and tire sizes and i'll give a definative answer on when to shift - but i hazard a guess its going to be redline or higher.....
 
will there be a difference in performance and the way the car runs?

which to get

http://www.street unit . com/DENSO_IRIDIUM_SPARK_PLUGS_MS3_MS6_CX_7_p/itv22.htm

or

(this one says 2-steps colder) whats the difference between the two and which to buy
http://www.street unit . com/DENSO_IRIDIUM_SPARK_PLUGS_MS3_MS6_CX_7_p/itv24.htm

I ordered the first ones. They have not arrived yet, but I got this because I also ordered a turbo xs catless downpipe and medieval turbo inlet and was told the one step colder plugs reduces knock from all the increased air flow.
 
Assuming you're racing at a drag strip with an x-mas tree...

Your dad will probably tell you (if he hasn't already) that if you see the green light, you're late. You'll probably get a sportsman tree (yellow lights count down) and you're going to go at the last yellow.. by the time you react and the car rolls out of the beams the green light will be on. You might not get to the finish line quickest, but you might get there first.... Holeshots are a wonderful thing.

Yes, I've known about that from the experience one of my uncles has in drag racing. He had a full fledged race team and everything, but my dad could still out drive him if they ran the same exact car. Dad could always cut a better time. But mom wouldn't let dad do it professionally, so he did it for fun. So yes, I knew about the tree time.
 
Assuming you're racing at a drag strip with an x-mas tree...

Your dad will probably tell you (if he hasn't already) that if you see the green light, you're late. You'll probably get a sportsman tree (yellow lights count down) and you're going to go at the last yellow.. by the time you react and the car rolls out of the beams the green light will be on. You might not get to the finish line quickest, but you might get there first.... Holeshots are a wonderful thing.

Totally true, but if you cannot launch - don't even try and play the game at the tree.... go to a test and tune, and ignore the lights...just get your technique right. Cutting good lights isn't as important as learning to get your car launched....
once you've got the launch technique down pat, and cutting good, consistent 60' times, THEN you can start learning to pre-empt the tree.
 
Well, idk how you and this guy are going to call who wins, but if your going to do it by 1/4mile time, not by who makes it to the end first, you shouldnt worry about the tree as much as you should about your launch or shifting, the tree is just there to give you the heads up, the clock dosen't start till you pull the trigger and go, you can sit at the light for seconds if you want, If the guy says whoever finishes first then yes watch the light, but if its by best 1/4mile, take your time to get your best time(ironic)
 
no its definately quarter mile time bro, I am fully aware I need to worry about my launch instead of worrying about cutting a perfect reaction time.
 
wasn't tryin to sound like a dick, but too many people get caught up on the flashy lights and run bad times when they have more potential than that, i did my first few passes
 
its all good man, no worries. My dad has done told me the tree should be the least of my worries, I know reaction time has NOTHING to do with the time at the end of the track...the most important time for me will be the 60 footer.
 

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