Proud new owner of #1400 2003.5 Maybe you can help

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The reverse gear is normal.
 
Quick update ... I recently noticed that annoying steering wheel rough spot I get when the cars been driving for 20+ mins... Well it goes away when it starts raining.. I had the problem yesterday on the way home from work it started raining when I was halfway home and for the next 30 mins no issue at all even after the rain had stopped. I feel like the problem may be one of the many bushings connected to the steering components and when it rained it lubricated that bushing. Does that sound like a decent hypothesis?
 
The tie rods are ball joints and if they become jammed up with dirt, I could see there being a rough spot. There is really only one main bushing on the gear housing, but I don't see how that would create a rough spot. I don't see how a bushing would do that anywhere. It would think a rough spot would need to be where two pieces of metal rub together which either means a ball joint, bearing, or gear itself. Since gears and bearings are sealed, rain should have no affect, so that kind of points to the tie rods. They are also the easiest thing to swap out. Just put the car, take the wheels off. take the cotter pin out, take the nut off, then pop the tie rods out with your weapon of choice. I use the small pitman arm puller from autozone (27022). Then just move the ball joint around with your hand to see if it moves smoothly with no excessively loose or tight spots.
 
So just by looking at it from the picture it looks like the block was sandblasted which would indicate some engine work was done. If you want to know for sure if its a built engine turn it up to 15psi, you'll know soon enough.
 
It even came with a FMIC?! Cool! I have a Stock Yellow MSP (125K miles). Since the MSP's run extra rich so the engine doesn't blow up, I have permanent shade of BLACK on the exhaust side embedded in my yellow paint all the way to the Flyin' "M", soooo, you should see my exhaust tip!
 
Thanks for the tie rod idea... Do you guys know if I can use a OBX exhaust manifold for a 99-03 Mazda 5 turbo for my car?
 
About the reverse being hard. Shift into second first then slide over to reverse, see if that helps...
 
Thanks for the tie rod idea... Do you guys know if I can use a OBX exhaust manifold for a 99-03 Mazda 5 turbo for my car?

They never made a Mazda 5 turbo or a Protege 5 turbo, but i'm pretty sure you want to stay away from OBX turbo manifolds.
 
OK there was one on EBay supposedly for a 99-03 Mazda 5 item # 130672863361 and it had recently sold... I just noticed my stock manifold has some hairline cracks and I didn't know how long it would last... Should I get it spot welded or is there a more economical replacement I don't want to spend alot of money on this car. Thanks
 
Steedspeed manifolds are available, I don't believe they are in production any longer though. The Pope is making new turbo manifolds, have a look around the foruns for your options, you should be able to find an un-cracked stock or aftermarket exhaust manifold.
 
Update

I've had to replace two motor mounts that went bad and also the rack and pinion.... That was the knock in the steering that was getting worse with time...had to drop the subframe and pain in my rump. now I can't seem to get the back end to be quiet with daily driving I have new shocks new red bushings on the sway bar new endlinks as well... This is a bit ridiculous and it still squeaks after all that.. I'm thinking of removing the sway bar
 
I've had to replace two motor mounts that went bad and also the rack and pinion.... That was the knock in the steering that was getting worse with time...had to drop the subframe and pain in my rump. now I can't seem to get the back end to be quiet with daily driving I have new shocks new red bushings on the sway bar new endlinks as well... This is a bit ridiculous and it still squeaks after all that.. I'm thinking of removing the sway bar

Motor mounts is a common issue as is the squeak. Just get greasable brackets for the bushings because you will regret every minute of removing the sway bar.
 
They make greasable brackets? Not sure how that would work since you need to get grease between the bushing and the bar. The rears are pretty quick to pop off, but I admit it usually takes a week or two of squeaking for me to get off my ass and grease them again. It's usually a once or twice a year thing. I just consider it normal maintenance. The last time, about a month ago, I followed a suggestion on here and wrapped the bar in teflon tape. Quiet for now. Hoping it will last longer than the normal white lithium I use.
 
Brackets with grease fittings and brushing that have a feed hole in them. Have you not seen these? Try google
 
You learn something new everyday. Question is, which brackets fit? All the brackets that popped up from google lay flat and ours are at an angle. Although maybe then can just be bent to fit.
 
You learn something new everyday. Question is, which brackets fit? All the brackets that popped up from google lay flat and ours are at an angle. Although maybe then can just be bent to fit.

Everyone that I've seen on here had to bend them.
 

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