Programming a Spare Remote for Mazda3

[bbrich57]

That's the same KPU # that's on my '04, so it should work correctly, since they didn't change until '06.
An additional number is: IC:4238A-41846.
But as it is with the key, I believe you need one working remote to program another. That's likely why its not working for you. You may have to have a dealer do it for you.

 

[lexya]

Does anyone know how to program a FOB remote for the 2012 Mazda 3? I've tried the above programming but the car does not react to it.

 

[rayjwhitney]

Good YouTube Video if you're having problems programing.

Does anyone know how to program a FOB remote for the 2012 Mazda 3? I've tried the above programing but the car does not react to it.

I am a 13+ Mazda Master Technician and made a short YouTube video about programming the remotes on Mazda3, Mazda6, RX8, Protg, MPV, Millenia, Miata, 626, Mazda5 and others. I talk about what works and what doesn't and if programming isn't working, what may be wrong. Check it out if you're having trouble.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24IXmBr3tA4




Ray Whitney
www.WhitneyAutoRepair.com
www.facebook.com/whitneyautorepair
https://www.youtube.com/user/rayjwhitney

 

[wtwiwf]

Struggling to get my head around exactly what I need to do

I have a 2007 Mazda 3 1.6 TS Hatchback (UK)

I bought it used, with only one key - which is in a key fob with 3 buttons - Lock, Unlock and Disable Alarm - fob version Visteon 41522
I have confirmed that using only the key to unlock the door (not the button), does not disable the alarm

I have read a lot online about reprogramming fobs and keys and this seems to be primarily about allowing the doors to be unlocked and the car to be started but I haven't yet found a thread that covers the third element of disabling the alarm. I've also read that if I only have one key, I have no choice but to visit the dealer as programming tricks seem to require you to have two keys to begin with.

My local locksmiths state that they can easily cut me a new key with a chip that will get me into the car, but they said they can't help me replicate my fob because I have the alarm, which they can do nothing about.

So, my newbie questions are:

1. As I only have one key, in a 3 button fob, with an alarm, do I need to visit the dealer?
2. If so, can I take my own cut key (with chip) in a used fob and get it reprogrammed, or will they insist I buy at the dealer?
3. Forgetting everything I've already asked, what is my required/best course of action, to enable me to have additional spare keys for my car?

Many thanks all...

 

[looksfar]

Thank you

Will this work for a 2005 Mazda 3?

Just wanted to say this worked on my 2010 Mazda 3 perfectly thank you

 

[geebos]

What many individuals are not aware of...including some dealers is Mazda used 3 different vendors for their keyless system. The 2nd issue is Mazda limits the number of FOBS to 3 in the ECU.If your car has 3 codes in the ECU you'll need to clear out the old information and the start anew. Now back to the 3 different tranceivers used by Mazda....VDO transmits @433mhz, Mitsubishi @315 mhz and Vinteon @ 315mhz. If you have 1 original flip key..seperate the top part with metal key from the FOB. LOOK on the FOB, then check where the plastic part of the metal key inserts into the FOB...On the FOB side is faint printing with the name..VDO,VINTEON or Mitsubishi. I wasn't aware of this when ordering a FOB and could not get the Chinese VDO FOB to work. Knowing that the FOB transmits at 433 mhz I began checking the web and found out how to find the original cars flip key FOB Manufacture for my 2011 Mazda 3S which was Mitsubishi. So the new FOB couldn't talk to the car tranceiver which required 315mhz not 433mhz. Hope my long winded explanation helps others avoid this pit fall. Why Mazda couldn't use a single vendor. Who knows ...the key part transponder 4D63 is the same for 04 to 14.

 

[elstraitjacket]

Guys, I bought a new remote, and I'm having trouble getting the car to actually go into programming mode, so I can't even be sure that the new remote I got off Amazon is functional. I have tried the method at the beginning of this thread, I've tried a few methods I found on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24IXmBr3tA4 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mShU9jRAsIU

I have tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and trying these methods again. I've probably opened/closed my driver side door about 1000 times at this point. I'm pretty sure the keyless entry module works, as it responds to the old remote (which I'm replacing because the LOCK function no longer works). Any ideas???

 

[concept]

Did you check (as explained above) to be sure it is transmitting at the required frequency?

 

[mazdamom49]

I am trying to program the old key fob from my 2003 Protege to my daughter's 2006 3. I've done the lock/unlock door, the turn the key to on three times and open/close the door three times, but the ECU doesn't respond. If I need to clear the codes in the ECU, how do I do that, if not that, then what? Might the fact the door light doesn't come on have something to do with it? I don't relish spending $35 to $50 bringing it somewhere for them to do it. And I am in total agreement with you, concept, the 02 and 03 Protege are the best handling stock cars out there in my opinion. That's why I am on my third.

 

[Tony_Montana]

Problem: Can't Program Key Fob; On step #6 of instructions for programming key fob, the door locks do not cycle on, then off, to indicate readiness for programming. However, if the key is removed or the door is closed, the locks cycle on/off twice.

SOLVED: Solution for Step #6 Problem During Programming Mazda 3 Key Fob on a 2004 Mazda 3

I was able to solve this problem simply by disconnecting the battery (not sure if it matters, but I left it disconnected for 15 minutes), then repeating the programming instructions. Note: Be sure to write down your radio stations before disconnecting; you will need to re-program them.

For what it's worth, I was able to program a key fob with a DIFFERENT FCC ID than the original key fob. In my case, the original was KPU41846 and the new one (from ebay) was KPU41794. (If anyone cares, I bought it here...be warned that the auction lists the FCC ID KPU41846, but I actually received KPU41794 [doesn't matter, still works]).

What DID NOT WORK was Seryous' advice about going to some sort of diagnostic security mode by cycling the key on/off for 4 times instead of 3.

I solved this with a different method (after trying the battery method). I had to push my key inwards and hold it inwards the whole time to make sure it knew my key was in the ignition. After I did that it worked flawlessly. I've been trying to figure this out for years.