Problems with Idle and power

Ceasar1010

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Mazdaspeed Protege 2003 and Miata STO 1997
Ok so I got an ODBII reader and these are the codes I got

  • P0301 - Cylinder #1 Misfire
  • P0506 - Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
  • P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)


I tried to start it with the MAF disconnected, remebered and this is what i got. It still stutters in idle, like something didnt fire, when I accelerate and then push the clutch in the RPM dips real low and almost dies. If I push the gas in neutral the rpms go to 1400 for about3 seconds and then down to about 800 rpm.

My boost guage says -12 (Vaccum leak from what I have read in the forums- everyone says theres is at -20psi) The common thing they all say accept for P0301 is Vaccum leak.
I got the diagram for testing the coil from the forums and I will try that for the P0301. Can I swap the two coils to see if the error moves? If it moves its the coil , if it dosnt move its the plug / wire?

I cleared all the codes and will drive to work tomorrow. Probably about 60 miles. I want to see if these repeat themselves.

Thank you for the help anyone can give me.

Update: the boost guage says -12 vac at idle.
 
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Are the plugs new? You should probably replace the entire ignition setup if it is old. You may have a sticking IAC but more likely vacuum leaks.
 
Are the plugs new? You should probably replace the entire ignition setup if it is old. You may have a sticking IAC but more likely vacuum leaks.

The plugs are new everything else is stock. 10 years is a long time to function properly. I started happening after I disconnected everything to work on the cam seal leak. I plugged it all back in and now its not working right. That's a lot of money to replace those things. Now I'm getting a P0300 code. I'm guessing a Vac of -15 isn't what everyone else is getting at idle on the boost gauge. I'm going to spray the cleaner stuff to check for Vac leaks.

Well. I'm going to put the missing exhaust manifold studs , replace my failing WGA, and then look for Vac leaks. That's my Sunday :)
 
BTW what is the order of the cylinders from left to right

(1) (2) (3) (4)

Or is something less obvious
 
You already know the WG is bad and leaking and you still want to know why you are getting a vacuum leak code?
 
You already know the WG is bad and leaking and you still want to know why you are getting a vacuum leak code?

Funny thing I just read that somewhere else. I'm an idiot with this stuff. My Dad may own a shop doesn't mean I know crap about it. Servers , Routers, PC's, Telecom that I know.
I also did some playing. I took the wires off the plugs and cleaned them (the connectors) and it ran better, not perfect but a large margin noticeably better.
 
Well replace the WG and see how it runs, you will need some new vacuum lines (preferably silicone) to replace all the stock ones as they will be brittle and can leak. Are the plugs gapped correctly to .028"?
 
Well replace the WG and see how it runs, you will need some new vacuum lines (preferably silicone) to replace all the stock ones as they will be brittle and can leak. Are the plugs gapped correctly to .028"?

Yes I checked that amd they are within spec. I cleaned the contacts on the cables and plugs and it runs even smoother, so they really probably need to go. the WGA will be in next week, and Ill just do the exaust studs at the same time rather than take it off twice. Ill replace all the lines with silicon also, seems to be the best idea everyone has given me to proactivly fight against issues.

Hornsfan thanks for all your advice.
 
Not a problem man, it sounds like you have a good plan for your car. I know you will love it like the rest of us once it is running right.
 
UPDATE: Only 4 bolts in the exaust manifold and only one was tight. I think that was my P0171 code.
 
That can be a part of it but you still likely need a new WGA if it is still the stock one and vacuum lines definitely need to be replaced if original.
 
That can be a part of it but you still likely need a new WGA if it is still the stock one and vacuum lines definitely need to be replaced if original.

I got the WGA from someone on Mazdas247 and the hoses are on order. That's my next weekends project. I tightened the bolts, and she runs better. Noticeably better at idle and no boost/low boost
 
Well replace the WG and see how it runs, you will need some new vacuum lines (preferably silicone) to replace all the stock ones as they will be brittle and can leak. Are the plugs gapped correctly to .028"?

Why does everything say online the Gap of .044?
 
thats for a REGULAR PROTEGE or PROTEGE5 not a a MAZDASPEED PROTEGE

So if the plugs that are in my car now where installed by my brother who said they where "Pre-gapped" , the possibility is they are .044"
This may be my random misfire
 
Gap was WAY off, I could fit .040 in it. Time to drive and see!

UPDATE: YEA! No more stutter idle when it gets warmer! and it seems like the car dosnt bog in boost now. Well not as bad as it did before, MUCh less
 
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I got three codes p0103 p0171 and the random misfire p0300 i changed my plugs now i can actually hold steady revs without hesitation. My vaccuum at idle is -25 most of the time its spikes to -20 sometimes making the car hesitate during idle so either i have a leak somewhere or could it be the maf malfuctioning?
 
Gap was WAY off, I could fit .040 in it. Time to drive and see!

UPDATE: YEA! No more stutter idle when it gets warmer! and it seems like the car dosnt bog in boost now. Well not as bad as it did before, MUCh less

good to hear. never go with the pre-gapped setting, chances are that they have been gapped for a regular protg. MSP is always .028-.033, and the bogging and any hesitation around the 4k rpm range is the crappy stock tune. need a SSAFC to help
 
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