Problem with Hardpipe kit hitting master cylinder

celdridge

Member
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2003.5 MSP
Since i have had my car now, i have always been hearing the classic clunk coming from what i thought was my sway bar bushings, but after taking it to the shop for the 10th time today to get them replaced the techs said enough is enough and decided to spend some time finding out what the real problem was and not just patching it again. Come to find out the real problem is the hardpipe kit on the top directly beside the intake manifold is flexing enough when i pop the clutch to actually strike the master cylinder and make a pop pop pop noise. I had always blamed it on the bushings and just got them replaced. I checked in there with my finger after the car cooled down and noticed a nice big dent in the pipe exactly where it has been hitting. The pipes are on there the only way they will go on, so it doesnt really seem to be a fitment issue. Everyone who has the pipes check it out and make sure you dont have the same issue. Im very very afraid that sooner than later its actually going to go through the pipe and make a hole. That would not exactly be a good thing.
:-(

Is there anything i can do?
 
Mine do not. I checked it out. Wonder if you could loosen up the pipes and adjust where they are before you tighten it up again.
 
Man, that sucks. I had some rubbing issue with the INJEN, but I readjusted the fitment. I have the same pipes as you. You might have bad motor mounts, if your engine is dancing around enough to throw the upperpipe in to the masterscylinder. Although there is only a fingertips distance between the pipe and mc. I put my bottom clamps on first, and rotated the top of the pipe as much as possible, before tightening the upper clamps. Maybe you should consider putting a piece of rubber tubing, cut down the middle to absord any future impact between the pipe and mc. Good luck.
 
Some people cut 1/4 of an inch of the side that enters the TB. It might free up some space.

Just make sure you cut straight and that you remove the rough edges with some sandpaper.
 
Mine does the same thing (Hiboost fmic) and i've pushed in all the way to the TB and tightened it, and it still rubbed and so i just got a piece of heater hose i had laying around and cut off a 2" piece and cut that in half and put it between the master cylinder and the pipe, it fell out yesterday so i have to do it again, i might just tape it this time.
 
I pulled off my hardpipe yesterday and it checked out ok. I was just checking the bolts for the BOV, and all checked out fine. Was the dent very big? Pics will help out.
 
this was a problem we encountered when we first made the pipes,and all you need to do is reposition them,it's not a big deal,they are just a litle of of where they need to be.it should take you a whole 3 minutes.
 
Actually, i just went out and double checked. I had some scratches in the area, and I can see where it would make contact when you shift. I recently upgraded the motor mounts, so I don't see it as being such a big problem, but if it starts getting scratched up more, I may have to put some rubber or something there in that spot. I've had the hardpipes on for about 6 months though, and it doesn't seem like it did a lot of damage for the pipes being on that long.
 
what hardpipe kit was this? I have the turbohoses and there is not an issue. My friend has the Wagner FMIC and we had this issue until we loosened up all the clamps and adjusted it all so there was a gap between the pipes and master cylinder and now there is plenty of space and no issue.
 
hazeXban said:
what hardpipe kit was this? I have the turbohoses and there is not an issue. My friend has the Wagner FMIC and we had this issue until we loosened up all the clamps and adjusted it all so there was a gap between the pipes and master cylinder and now there is plenty of space and no issue.

Its the turbohoses kit and unfortunatally my pipe is basically damaged beyond repair, im really afraid its going to put a gash in it if it hits any more.
 
My Spool hardpipes had this issue as well. I ended up cutting a piece of an unused silicone hose connector and attaching it to the pipe where it hit the cylinder. It protects the pipe, and also gets rid of the annoying sound.
 
jersey_emt said:
My Spool hardpipes had this issue as well. I ended up cutting a piece of an unused silicone hose connector and attaching it to the pipe where it hit the cylinder. It protects the pipe, and also gets rid of the annoying sound.


The strange thing is that the sound is exactly the same as the clunk clunk swaybar sound. I hope more people are not experiecing this and just dont know it.
 
I think you really must have that pipe slightly out of place. I just installed mine last week and there is seriously about 2 inches of space between that pipe and the master cylinder. When you can loosen up all the connectors and turn that TB pipe so its angled more and it should raise the pipe and have it clear the TB. I will go home after work and take a picture for you of what mine is looking like.

Pete
 
also...mine is klunking again...jersey what'd u use to attach the silicon hose to that part of the pipe?
 
Yours is hitting again? Or this noise something else? We need to adjust and tighten again mang.
 
Just get a motor mount or mounts and quit'cher bitchen. The motor should not be flinging itself all over the engine bay anyways..
 
hazeXban said:
I think you really must have that pipe slightly out of place. I just installed mine last week and there is seriously about 2 inches of space between that pipe and the master cylinder. When you can loosen up all the connectors and turn that TB pipe so its angled more and it should raise the pipe and have it clear the TB. I will go home after work and take a picture for you of what mine is looking like.

Pete


Mine is at least 2 inches away as well ... the engine does enough dancing in the bay to still hit though.
 
peepsalot said:
Just get a motor mount or mounts and quit'cher bitchen. The motor should not be flinging itself all over the engine bay anyways..


I wouldnt mind getting the motor mounts, but i have heard that the car is rougher at idle and during acceleration with them. Is that true?
 

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