Problem Identified? (P0172)

yea i was going to say if your cars still going lean that means the clamp isnt doing its job. I assume you have a reader now if you have a fuel trim option (you may not) if the numbers in this area are decreasing your clamp is for sure not working or wired incorrectly. You should not need that much FP.
 
yea i have a cheap code reader that just gives me the codes. i know the ECU is pulling fuel...so..yea. anyhow, if i can get this problem fixed the FP will be more suited towards the 7.5-8psi i was intending to run.

either way, the FP isnt the problem. i am at 14.7ish AFR out of boost under normal driving conditions, so its not like im running so rich to trigger that code.
 
i really dont think you need to be higher then 6.5... anything over and timing should start to be pulled. Ask ken hell tell you the same and he has haltech. Not trying to be a dick but you know why it called rising rate fuel pressure regulator? When out of boost the RRFPR should have at close to "stock" condition prob around 40psi of fuel.
 
8psi is fine untuned i ran it for 20 some thousand miles, no detonation.

if you turn it to 40psi of fuel it will not have enough of a max pressure to handle 7.5psi of fuel. period.

im not trying to be a dick, but can we save our ideas on what the fuel pressure ideas should be or timing or any of that crap for another thread? im trying to find out what is causing the code to pop, especially considering i dont boost often and my AFRs are around 14.7 consistently. this always happens, and then all the sudden no one feels like piling through 40 pages of nonsense to find out what has and hasnt been done to troubleshoot. like suggestions of my finances by people talking about cell phones.

So if we can provide a valid arugment as to why the fuel pressure affects my trouble code, preach on, otherwise please lets not clutter this thread.

the fuel pressure is turned up right now to prove and show that the ECU is pulling fuel. by having the FP turned up, it proves three things consistenly and makes troubleshooting easier:

1) the ECU is pulling fuel
2) the fuel pump works well
3) the RRFPR works well

these are three things that people always ask when i tell them i am leaning out. if i ahve the FP turned up until i get the problem fixed, i can automatically eliminate these problems.
 
furthermore, the FP was consistently HIGHER on my old turbo setup with the SAME fuel management options, and ZERO problems.
 
well dick... they way the FP can be directly related to your problem is anything over 100psi is altering the spray pattern for the injector and in turn cause the injector to **** up and start sticking open and such. If it sticks open then youd get that code. Meaning you need new injectors... throwing tons of fuel however may work will cause problems down the road like your having now.

If your pulling fuel them your clamp is not doing its job. Clamps have been known to go on the proteges ask keith. You ethier have it wired wrong or its gone bad.

Try not being a jackass when people try to help you... just a tip not trying to be a dick.
 
im not being a dick, i asked politely. the fuel pressure is around 100psi when FULLY boosted. do you know how many times i boosted over 1-2psi this WHOLE week? once, the day i got my clutch installed. then again, last night, AFTER i got the code, to see if the ECU started to pull fuel. so during the day when i drive it a whole 10 miels per day to and from work, the FP is at 50ish max, and AFRs 14.7 or higher. so tell me how that threw the code.

and anyways, ill say again for about the 40th time - this setup is EXACTLY THE WAY I RAN MY OLD SETUP, NO PROBLEMS. NONE. ZILCH. NADA. NOTHING. ZERO.

make sense now as to why i dont want people to steer it off course, AGAIN?
 
Matthew said:
and anyways, ill say again for about the 40th time - this setup is EXACTLY THE WAY I RAN MY OLD SETUP, NO PROBLEMS. NONE. ZILCH. NADA. NOTHING. ZERO.

you keep saying why this could be the problem... you were running the vortech right? Well you said 20k of boosting. You do the math. Im not saying this is the absolute problem but look into it before you dismiss it.

its your generally attitude matthew, its a forum so my guess is just as good as the next guy... i think blkzoomzoom was on the right track maybe you should take it to SPD or something. If moneys not that big a deal and youll sell it once its fixed, pay to get it done right.
 
spd is 8 hours away to the south. while that would be great, i dont have time to drive down there. not the money aspect, but the drive. i dont know anyone reputable in this area that is even worth paying the fees to. i called around, but didnt get the idea that anyone i talked to knew what the hell i was talking about. when they start asking about where the nitrous is, or what is a FMU (and still not understand when i tell them), etc, it doesnt lead me to believe it would be a good idea to leave my car with them.

the reason i get aggrivated is because the thread gets cluttered, by the tenth page the same questions are being asked three times per page, and i have to start a new thread. then people either A) b**** or leave me negative rep because they are ******* morons for me starting a new thread or B) ask the same exact questions that were asked in the last cluttered thread.

I understand what you are saying about a lot of boostin etc etc. but 20k miles or so aside, the computer is reset. then im driving either at perfect 14.7, or just slightly richer, or really lean for a week then the light comes on and gives me the code. if you really want me to lower the pressure just to test it out, i will, but i truly dont think thats the problem. i think maybe the clamp is jacked. im hoping someone has something other than those same two responses. because last time i talked to keith he said it was my car, not the clamp. whether that just means he didnt understand the problem fully or just didnt want to deal with it i dont know. i know generally speaking, ive never heard anything bad about FM's support.

no i had the bEGI on my last unit. i HAD the vortech, but MP3SkaterNC had sent me a bad one. From the get go it didnt work because of it. I upgraded to the BEGI and put in a new fuel pump, no problems.
 
well i know FM will test the clamp if you take it out and send it to them. Just means no boosting for a week. You can try turning it down but the damage my already be done. Ill leave it at that and maybe someone else has a better idea.
 
also, your timing opinions aside - when i move to 7.5 psi the fuel pressure is going to need to increase to about a 100 ANYHOW. so then what do you suggest, considering the fact that the goal was to be boosting 7.5psi. so while 100psi of fuel NOW is too much, when i go to 7.5psi and its more ideal, then for what reason should the light come on?

see what im getting at?
 
Matthew said:
also, your timing opinions aside - when i move to 7.5 psi the fuel pressure is going to need to increase to about a 100 ANYHOW. so then what do you suggest, considering the fact that the goal was to be boosting 7.5psi. so while 100psi of fuel NOW is too much, when i go to 7.5psi and its more ideal, then for what reason should the light come on?

see what im getting at?

lower your goals? 6.5 is fine really... if you drive the car so little is the estimated 8-10hp gonna matter? I dont know though... the next cure for this would be an AIC (added injector controller) This way while still keep the injectors at 80-90ish range in fuel pressure you can add more fuel through the added injector.
 
ok but the ECU is still going to pull fuel.. its just going to have to pull LESS.
 
Matthew said:
ok but the ECU is still going to pull fuel.. its just going to have to pull LESS.

thats the thing the clamp should prevent that... so thats a tough one. Im sure you've checked your wiring. Maybe worth while to buy a new one send back the old one if they old one was fine then just sell it here on the forum and start hunting for a new problem.
 
yea, what a damn hassle. i guess i might have to do that. now that my weekend is pretty much shot, i guess it will have to wait until next.
 
heres what bothers me:

if the clamp isnt working, then i guess the computer would see the actual AFRs under boost, right? otherwise if the clamp was working it would pass along a leaner reading causing the computer to dump fuel thinking it was running lean, not rich.

so im leaning towards the clamp as the prob since day one. back when i had a million variables, but ive elminated them all (replaced the o2, if it ever was bad, replaced the IAT sensor, etc)
 
kinda confused as to what your asking... it just tricks the ecu into thinking that everything is okay it runs like normal. Then fmu does its job.
 
Ok, not sure if this will even help you out but I had the same code before. When you ask: I had just taken off my 2.5" Apex downpipe with highflo cat and put the stock cats back on right, only problem is that I didn't have the gasket that connects the rear cat back to the cat section so you could hear the exhaust leaking from there. Well I ordered the gasket and what do you know, put it in, cleared the code, and nothing else since. So what I'm taking from it was that the exhaust was leaking out of the car right, hence the O2 sensor was thinking that the car was running lean, i don't know but thought it may help you. Since i put in the gasket code has yet to return and I have a few thousand miles on it since.
 

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