Prince Valorum's 95 626 Build Thread

PrinceValorum

Member
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95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Well guys, this has been a long time coming. If you know me, you know I write too much, don't update as much as I should, and just generally don't get much accomplished. I'm sure this won't be much different, but I do have big plans.

I've had my 626 for a number of years now, and over the course of that time, I've learned a good deal. I'm an authority on nothing, but more a lightly seasoned researcher on a few topics. It did get my into wrenching, though, and that's the most important step of all.

Over the years that I've had my 626, I've had several dreams for it, including turboing the FS that it came with. However, the more I dug into that topic, the more I saw that it wasn't the right path for me. I mean sure, I know several guys with MSP race cars, and they have FS's in those, and they haven't blown them up, yet (Marlon's has gone, since writing this originally), but honestly it's just a matter of time. It's a matter of time with any engine, just a much shorter matter of time with an FS.

So I considered my other options. The most obvious is the KL swap. I then went crazy and started compiling research on that topic, which in itself is almost endless. I still don't feel that I've even started my research for the swap, but I need a place to start. I need to write down my ideas. And I may as well share them, if you don't mind slogging through my ramblings.

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MY 626:

How it sits now:

IMG_6541edit.jpg


Already out of date with the motor mounts
IMG_5284.jpg


Power department:
Ebay CAI
Ebay 4-2-1 "Racing" header
Custom 2.25" piping from cat back
Generic resonator
Magnaflow 2.25" muffler
K6F 88 Duro motor mounts

Handling department:
Tokico Illuminas
Eibach Prokits for a PGT (lowers more than 626 version)

Grip department:
Mazda 6 wheels
Capitol Sport UHP 215/40's
Ichiba spacers, 25mm front, 20mm rear

Bling department:
Heavy = slow, so it's not in the car


Waiting to be installed:
17mm Contour rear sway bar (also need to weld on limiter bushings)
Energy Suspension 17mm greasable sway bar bushings and brackets
Racing Beat RX7 adjustable endlinks
Custom sway bar bushing bracket mounts
TWM short shifter
TWM weighted shift knob

Ordered!
[N/A currently]

Waiting to be ordered:
JDM KL!
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PLANS:

After countless hours spent surfing youtube, and a handful of real life encounters with KL's, I have fallen in love with the sound of the engine. There's just something special about it to me. The fact that it revs to the sky and puts out some good power also help.

The other night I got a few rides in my buddy Evan's (Lewis7789) P6 after he finished the KL swap in it. Holy moses, it is downright mental. He's got OBX headers, a resonator, and a Corksport straight through catback, and it sounds simply ridiculous. Coupled with a 12lb flywheel, it revs like a bike, and sounds like it will rip your head off. It absolutely rips on the road, too, and it's not even a ZE... probably just an indication at how easily I'm impressed. The whole car is just an awesome package, BC coilovers, Progressive rear sway, stiff poly motor mounts, KL, exhaust I mentioned, lightweight flywheel, stage 1 clutchmasters clutch kit, and a TWM short shifter, it's truly a track car for the street. It will see substantial amounts of track time by his hands, too. (can you tell I was still high off the experience when I wrote that? (rolleyes) )

That ride was the last straw. I realized that I no longer cared what my friends though of pouring money into a 16 year old "family car" or any of that junk. It's going to be a sleeper, and it's going to be a blast. I'm going to enjoy every second of it, and that's all that matters.

The current plans are to get a ZE and swap it in before my FS blows up, or I kill it myself. Then, while I'm enjoying all six cylinders, I will begin the real build. I'll source another KL and start building a real monster of an engine. My goal is for 200whp and 8k revs, reliably. The dream is for it to also have a 50-70 shot, but I have a feeling that will be a bit out of the budget, especially when considered the costs associated with also making it reliable. Then I snap back to reality and remember that it's fwd. But I think it would be so fun to have a "family sedan" that could pull a Corvette.

While putting in the second motor, I'd really like to paint the engine bay and respray the entire car. For the engine bay, I'm thinking some darker titanium color, and the factory color for the rest of the body. It probably seems like a dumb idea to put at minimum two different motors into the car, but I also don't want to become desensitized to the power by going huge all at once, if that makes sense.

This is the bill of materials for the swap. The ones with the * are required for the first motor, and the others will [hopefully] be added later.

KLZE*
5 speed trans*
VAF, ECU, Wiring harness*
Tranny saver*
Intake mani and throttle body phen. spacers*
Headers and wrap* (Ideally the Hotshots sound the best, but the pacesetters make the most power. I need to research where the OBX's lay)
Southbend clutch and cryogen treatment* (not sure on stage with current power goals)
Lightweight Fidanza*
TWM short shifter*
TWM shift knob*
M Factory LSD
Mazda 6 BBK + Protege disk rears
929 Master cylinder for the Mazda 6 BBK
Hydraulic ebrake (unless I can find a different solution, maybe just 5th gen 626 rear disks)

The second motor build will include many more go-fast parts, such as

65mm TB
Ported G4 IM or mebbe custom?!
blink.gif

Exhaust Cut-out
Interprep Valve Springs
SLA conversion
Custom SLA cams
Megasquirt
Upgraded ignition
Upgraded oiling system
etc, etc


Motivation:
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mtsgXm3akW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Motivation:
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mtsgXm3akW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Awwww...that is my car on the dyno! :D Thanks! I just sold that car (no botttle anymore on it) a couple weeks ago..I miss it.

Here is my suggestion to make 200whp reliably on a KL (some you have listed already)..

65mm TB
Straight Neck ZE/Ported KLg4 IM

Heads
Port/gasket matched DE heads (so that you can easily find SLAs to use)
Either stock klg4 SLAs, or MazdaMotorsport SLA Lifters
Interpreps
late model OEM KL Locks/retainers (or) RD Valve Springs Chromoly retainers
Some Colt 218 SLA equivalent cams

Bottom End
~10:1 compression bottom end (ZE or something from IPP)
Have the oil passages opened up, corners radiused, etc..
Balance/.020" overbore (do the balance AFTER you have ground the tooth off the crank pulley for the MS)
STOCK crank pulley
Shimmed oil pump (melling or mazda pump)

External
Pacesetter Headers/eBay with 2.5" merge
Cutout (not needed, but will net you nice peak power numbers)
2.5" cat-back
MS1 v3.0 with OEM Mazda Coilpack

Fidanza 9lb.
Mx3 lower trans mount
Solid f/r mounts

That will easily make 200whp and rev to 7500+ without issue if done correctly. It is not as hard as one might think..just people give up and boost..
 
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Wow, thanks a bunch for laying it all out like that! I'll definitely add those things to the research list! With a build like that, how much nitrous would be a safe amount, for infrequent use?

I'm still scratching my head as to how WestpalmGT made 198whp with just Pacesetters and MS on a ZE, plus the usual bolt ons. Factory freak?
 
Ehhh...you are not the only one that is suspicious. No one else has even come close to those numbers. Hell, I rebuilt a ZE, full bolt-ons with MS and only made 180whp...

stock rods are where you will be limited with the nitrous on a KL, as S rods and stock pistons have made over 400whp. A 50-75 shot should be no issue. I would be looking into a Walbro 190/255 fuel pump though, as a wet kit relies on the fuel pump for fueling and making the power you want n/a then adding nitrous..I doubt the stock pump will like that at all. They are only ~100 bucks.
 
stock rods are where you will be limited with the nitrous on a KL, as S rods and stock pistons have made over 400whp. A 50-75 shot should be no issue.

Awesome. I knew the rods were the weak link, but I wasn't sure what would come next. 400whp is a pretty high ceiling, so that should be plenty for a while! ;)

What would you say a reasonable budget for this build would be?
 
400whp would be with the Millenia S rods though..

The budget is tough to say. I mean..the parts all have pretty standard prices, but the labor will depend on the shop and how much of it you have to do yourself..

TB-125 (needs to be a millenia KL47 TB)
Manifold - 50-75 + porting (can be done yourself)
MMS Lifters 250-300 Stock Klg4 SLAs less than 100 used
Interpreps - 200
Pacesetters - 200, less if bought used

Colt Cams - 500-600 if not during a bulk buy
Pistons - depends (ze pistons from corksport are ~300)
Block work/machining - depends on shop
MS1 v3.0 - 300-400 depends on who builds it and the options you get


You are looking at a nice chunk of money if you want to build a motor..3500+. There are places to cut corners that will drop the price a lot but it is really up to you how much you want to spend..I am clear of 3500 just in the heads for my build, so you literally can spend 10k on a build with these if you want.
 
Okay, sounds good. The built motor is still way out in the future. The ZE is first, and then I'll have to start deciding how crazy I want to go with the rest of it. I can't wait to see yours finished!
 
Make sure you swap the valvetrain in the ZE to DE stuff.

And thanks! I can't wait to finish it either! lol..its been a long build, and in the midst I have changed Probes, and bought a house, so that kind of prolongs things. I hope to get the car finally running on a stock with bolt-ons motor here in the next couple weeks so that it is legal and I can take it for the oil pump mounting.
 
Yep, for sure. I like to rev it out, so that would be well worth it to me, lol.

Aside from the rods, the other weak spots seem to be the oiling (which you addressed with enlarging the oil passages and the stuff with the pump) and the transmission.
 
Correct..the oiling, rods, and trans are the weak points. And then the stock IM, lol.

trans..can be as expensive as you like also. I recommend

mx3 lower trans mount (have to fab that up, or have someone do it)
traction bars
solid mounts f/r

Those three things will go a long way in holding it together. From there there are other things that can be done internally to prevent the case from stretching and such..but the price gets up there quickly.
 
Hmm, shame about the mounts. I just bought all 4 poly mounts from K6F. They're 88 duro, so they're pretty stiff, but not quite solid. I don't like buying things twice, but I think solid mounts would destroy the interior of my car while I still have the FS in it, lol. It vibrates about 20x more than a KL.

I hope Xtremethings makes some progress with that F40 GM transmission. That is such a cool idea, though I don't know how practical.
 
Those mounts will be fine. I meant solid polyurethane..which those are. They are a little softer than the AWR mounts that I use, but they will work just fine.

Mike's project is a cool one, but very impractical for most anyone..
 
Mike's project is a cool one, but very impractical for most anyone..

Lol I gathered this much. He seems to have a ton of awesome geeky engineering ideas, though, which I dig.

When I googled "MX3 lower trans mount" it didn't turn up much, besides your build threads. Do you have a picture of it? Does it replace the regular trans mount, or is it another mount all together?
 
It is another mount all together. I mounts down on the front to back crossmember and bolts to the transmission in two spots. If you search Probetalk.com you will find more info and pics about it. I have not made mine yet.
 

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