POLL: Rear Adjustable Camber links

[spdjnke]

POLL: Which Lowering Springs are you using to have to use Adj Camber links.

Hey All,

Just thought I'd try and get a poll on what springs you guys are using and now many people are using Adjustable Rear Camber links.

Format::

Springs: H&R
Link brand: SPC/Eibach
Tire wear : None

 

[R242]

I'm not a Speed but yes, between 1.5" drop from rear BC springs/shocks and stiffer and slightly wider rsb my camber needed it, for tire wear and suspension clunk. Using Wicked adj. camber arms.

 

[spdjnke]

Wow I was trying to get this sticky'd but looks like there isn't many of us using rear links??

 

[R242]

Tired of buying new tires every 20k miles, back to 0 camber in rear, so paid themselves off quickly and keep saving me money(nana)

 

[meicalnissyen]

were you even in the rear, prior? I have BC, donked by most standards, but equal side to side
and, per the alignment machine which I i helped the setup on (slowday) is neg 2.2R and 0.8L
confirmed by eye as well
dont get it, they should be at least close side to side

 

[R242]

Mine was never that far off, or from each other. I have had a heck of a fun time getting my sway bar/end links/camber arms/bc perches to work in unison though lol, I have a slight(0.2-0.4) positive camber setup in the rear to keep from squeaking and clunking. The perch height is the biggest contributor to different camber, combine that with whatever else you run, and weight distribution. Hence my need for adj. camber arms ;p Jack the rear and check the hang on your lower control arms is where I'd start looking. Took me a LONG time to get the rear suspension happy.

 

[meicalnissyen]

Mine was never that far off, or from each other. I have had a heck of a fun time getting my sway bar/end links/camber arms/bc perches to work in unison though lol, I have a slight(0.2-0.4) positive camber setup in the rear to keep from squeaking and clunking. The perch height is the biggest contributor to different camber, combine that with whatever else you run, and weight distribution. Hence my need for adj. camber arms ;p Jack the rear and check the hang on your lower control arms is where I'd start looking. Took me a LONG time to get the rear suspension happy.

Yeah, BC was funny with the instructions for preload and ride height
bnasically using the free length of the strut to compress the spring if you follow the chinese to the letter
I backed that off so they do hang some, give the RSB some room to work, etc

I've been lucky with the links so far, no issues with noise or loose. check em now and then though
whats your distance from the wheel well to the ground?

 

[R242]

On level ground it's roughly 26", I have 1" between wheel well and tire, that's approx 4 threads down on perch with 225/40/18s. Yeah the rsb was my original problem, causing even more neg camber than stock...I think my springs have weakened though, I can't get any higher than that now lol. Sorry for threadjack Spdjnke

+1 adj. camber arms

 

[SilverMM3]

Hey guys got a question..
I'm not a speed3 owner, but my MZ3 s I just bought has Eibach Sportlines....Stock Wheels and 215/45/17's. There is some camber issuses with the rear suspension I can see it. My question is, do I just need to just get ajustable camber links to fix the issuse or is there an issuse with the car being on sportlines with stock rims and that size tire. I am assuming that if i get the camber links that will fix it?

Also... I love the look of sportlines, but don't know if I could eventually go to a wider rim without it rubbing. I don't want to roll the fenders, so if y'all could help me out with some solutions that would be awesome!!

Thanks

 

[spdjnke]

if it's negative camber then yes definately get your self some adjustable rear links...also you might want to consider going with 225/40's that' will give you a larger contact patch, plus it'll look so much beefier then the 215's.

 

[R242]

How much lower do the Sportlines bring you? One reason for the slight oem neg. camber is to prevent rubbing, whatever drop the springs give you can make up for in tire size like Spdjnke said...maybe a 215/40 even, the adj. camber arms will bring you closer to the fender when you zero out the camber...pay to play with lowering springs though, lower profile tire gives a drop in itself!

 

[bbrich57]

After procrastinating the install of my own rear camber links for literally several years, I would have to recommend these to ANYONE owning a current Mazda. The adjustably/flexibility is well worth it.
I burned through 3 sets of tires in less than 60k miles and am now on my 4th set. This set is wearing so much better than the others because of a reduction in negative rear camber. I am running right around 1* now where as before, nearly 2* and regular tire rotation (from the rear) showed a 2 -2-1/2/32 difference.
Now I'm down to a less than 1/32 difference. The car does not noticeably different than before... at least not as a daily driver.

 

[spdjnke]

yea given the price of decent tires now a days it's we really are better off getting the camber links installed that way for a small one time fee you don't have to worry about rotating and wasting tires, cuz the inside is worn while the rest of the tire is still fairly good. etc etc.

 

[SilverMM3]

R242...
The Sportlines are pretty low....My thinking that is the negative camber is keeping them from rubbing just like your saying........I am going to try the camber links and see if I can get that takin care of. Then I might have to go the the Eibach Pro-Kit rather then the Sportlines.....raise is a little

 

[R242]

You will probably still be ok with the new camber links with stock wheels. I think that's a good idea to change the springs, if you have to, you might not.