Please help!!!!! Before i shoot my car with a bazooka!!!!

^just went out with a long pair of needle nose and made sure the wga could move, and it did. sprayed a little silicone lube on the rod... also I took off my throttle body coupler and put different clamps on it (one of the old ones was pinching part of the coupler) and still same problem... there was a little wear on the inside if that coupler, but it didnt go through. i should probably replace it anyways huh?
 
i dont know i'm running out of ideas. lets start from the begging:

1. check the reducer on the hot side of the turbo.
2. check the couplers on the hot side before the IC.
3. check IC
4. check couplers on the cold side before BOV.
5. check the gasket on the BOV. tighten if up, just dont overtorque it.
6. check couplers between BOV and MAF.
7. check MAF. make sure u didnt crack it when u were tightening the clamps on it, remember its plastic!!!
8. and yeah check and i guess replace the TB coupler (u said it pinched it a little, check if the layers separated)
that was the easy part.

now check the vacuum lines, the big ones mainly: booster line. WGA line,

um that's all i can think of right now.
 
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Use hairspray on all your couplers before you tighten down the clamps. They'll never come off again.
 
took everything off, hairsprayed the couplers, re-installed... still builds boost really slow and when its fully warmed up doesn't boost all the way... I did notice that the oil feed line to the turbo looks a bit pinched, so I am going to order a new one. There are two different oil lines for sale on *************, a -4an with a restrictor, and a -3an without restrictor. Which one is best for stock replacement?
 
Dude, if you are seeing a pinched oil feed line, you probably starved your turbo, impellers touched the housings and your turbo is screwed. Take the intake tube completely off and turn the rotor by hand while trying to make it touch the inside of the impeller bore. If you hear scraping buy a new turbo. I work on turbos all day. If it has touched, the clearances will be increased and efficiency has gone down the crapper.

I'd check the play in the rotor first. Sounds like you've done all you can to stop leaks. Look at this. http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/tools/download.aspx?t=document&r=5&d=453 ... These are professional insights into your problem.
 
I still say you need to check the flap on the waste gate so you visualy see that's it closed it doesn't matter what the arm waas doing because if I remember right the arm is just a sleeve I mean you've tried everything else pretty much. Iknow its quite some work to take the mani and turbo out but at this point you might as well.
 
DId you just put the turbo on lately? Sorry, I read through this last night but I don't remember. if you have an adjustable wastegate actuator it may not be adjusted properly.
 
Um, kinda. I took the manifold, turbo, and downpipe off the replace the manifold like 3 months ago. And its the stock wga which looks adjustable. But I also put a boost controller on it and turned it up with no gain of boost. I'm seriously starting to think its gotta be the wastegate door isn't closing all the way internally...
 
Vote one up for the waste gate not closing. On a much earlier post 719 said he took the vacuum line off the WGA and still had low boost. What other possible explanation is there if he's not building boost with the WGA disconnected if the impellers are spinning just fine?

FWIW, My car builds boost in neutral if I floor it, how else do you trip people out with the turkey at stoplights?
 
no way does your car build boost in neutral, there isnt enough load on the engine
do you have a boost gauge to confirm this or are u just assuming since your car makes the turkey noise
 
yea im leaning toward the wastegate flap being messed up. im going to re route the hot-side piping though just bacause i want it to go a different way instead of so low to the ground. anyone have a used gt28rs?
 
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