Pablo's 2004 MSM Build

[JamesCH]

Maybe something is leaking in the brake booster? But I'm no expert by any means...

A leaky brake booster will make the pedal hard, because engine vac isn't helping you press the brakes.

I had a similar spongy pedal feel that related back to a master cylinder replacement and not doing a good job bench-bleeding, maybe this is part of it?

A seized caliper would explain the pulling, have you checked brake/wheel temps after driving it hard? When a caliper started dragging on mine the wheel was quite hot to the touch. If you notice that one wheel is significantly colder or hotter than the others it would help pinpoint the issue.

 

[princess peach]

I'm taking up Wills offer of using his parts, that will definitively rule out caliper malfunction, pads and rotors. This will also allow me to inspect all parts carefully without worrying that I need to get things done to get the car running. If calipers can be rebuilt then I'll do it taking my time.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Just delete the ABS...

 

[THE Phen]

Going to smaller brakes eh?

 

[WillD]

Less unsprung weight...

Plus ABS is overrated.

 

[PrinceValorum]

^Exactly!

 

[princess peach]

so... we couldn't get the front left rotor off... that thing is really in there. Sprayed it a bit and gave it some taps with a hammer but it wouldn't budge, so we couldn't do the swap. Bled the system again and used ATE super blue, no change. I need to have Phen drive it and drive his to compare, but I still think it shouldn't be that way. The boots on the front calipers looked OK, but who knows if there's something wrong with them. I'm gonna leave them alone for now.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Sounds like you need a bigger hammer...

 

[THE Phen]

So Pablo, I was doing some reading and found that the sport brake package that the MSM's have use a different master cylinder than the regular smaller brakes. If you do end up going thru with that swap, I would be curious to know what sort of impact it may have.

 

[princess peach]

yeah, don't know about that. I'll have to bang that rotor off so who knows what condition it'll end up in, and who knows if the rear has the same issue. Funny you brought this up, I'm currently researching options for brakes...

 

[chiefmg]

Flyin' Miata has a good price on a front brake upgrade, they call it their little big brake kit. Not sure if it is compatible with MSM systems or not.

 

[WillD]

I find it strange that rotor is stuck on there like that. A new rotor from NAPA can't be very expensive...

 

[princess peach]

chief, that is actually my first option, I would have to talk to them but I think it will fit. As for the rotor, I think it's a consequence of the braking not being even (pulls to one side). A friend at work said the rotor could be stuck due to overheating... if that's the case then hopefully it would only be an issue in the front, I'll have to take off the rear wheels and see if the rotors are loose. I wouldn't want to have uneven rotors, so if I bang that one out I'd replace both fronts. Also, I would have the stealer bleed them afterwards to make sure there's no air in the system (I would b**** about it if they don't do a good job)

 

[princess peach]

oh, and since I tend to over tighten things and broke a banjo bolt that came with the SS lines, I had to borrow a stock one from Will, so I have 3 aftermarket bolts and a stock one... its driving me crazy (I'm weird like that)

 

[WillD]

What's different about those aftermarket ones? Other than they break easy

 

[princess peach]

maybe the size is a little off, I dunno... after what I saw saturday, I'm more paranoid, even though I don't seem to have a leak

 

[eprx799]

yeah, don't know about that. I'll have to bang that rotor off so who knows what condition it'll end up in, and who knows if the rear has the same issue. Funny you brought this up, I'm currently researching options for brakes...

If your going to use a hammer to remove the rotors tap the hat of the rotor first to loosen up the rotor it usually stuck due to rust in the lovely part of the country. Then you can hit the back side of the rotor to remove it, I usually use a plastic dead blow hammer or hard rubber mallet, if I am going to reuse the rotor.

 

[princess peach]

I have a BFM now, so I'll try that when I get to it. I think the best move will be the little bbk from FM reusing the rotors and go from there.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[THE Phen]

I would have gotten a dead blow hammer... that way if you're smacking the s*** out of the face, it shouldn't damage it, and the rotor can be re-used. Learned that lesson when I did the wheel bearing on the passenger side and my brand new slotted rotor wouldn't budge.

 

[princess peach]

so... I fixed my brakes today, took like 30 min... the culprit?

******* slider pins, one of the boots had come off the caliper so it was bone dry and had some rust in there. I put new pins on the left side and lubed the ones on the right, those were OK. Car stops as it should now (I drove Marc's miata at MO as a reference), now I have to get a good set of pads and do the same maintenance on the rear. Thanks to almighty Bill who suggested I made sure the pins were lubed properly, I had no idea...