Who did your head work? How are they seating? Lets see some specs. It took a lot for me to break 160, any further will require the route that installshield went. I lost a bit of torque, but it moved up top.
Last edited:
P5 NA Build - Target 175whp
- Thread starter jimmysuite
- Start date
Who did your head work? How are they seating? Lets see some specs. It took a lot for me to break 160, any further will require the route that installshield went. I lost a bit of torque, but it moved up top.
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
How much power do you have?
And I believe Protege Garage did his head work.
And I believe Protege Garage did his head work.
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
^^^ and they did a kick a$$ job too!
Yeah, SAE factors are kinda useless.. That is why dynos are really ONLY good for comparing the same car on the same dyno each time. Too much you can fudge as you please on them.I don't trust SAE correction factors, though... but yes, with a little more fine-tuning (better if done on the dyno), you could gain a lot more at high rpms...
I'd love to see where you end up after the final tune.
Dynos are not good for tuning, I've tuned on them a few times and will take a road tune over a dyno tune any day. Now if you are tuning only for max power under full throttle, then sure a dyno works just fine, but a drivability tune just won't happen on a dyno to the same level you can achieve under a simple street tune. I've also when pushing my street tunes gotten to within about 2% of what I could achieve on a dyno as well, so not a lot being left out there usually.
It's at top-end that you'll notice. Street tune with the proper sensors, agree... you can get 95-98% perfect, but for that last 5% at the top end (where it's difficult to tell frm the butt) you can still gain quite a bit on the dyno.
Either way, I look forward to your next one with anticipation. My next dyno will definitely be a bit lower, but I'm happy about it... story to follow in its own thread.
Either way, I look forward to your next one with anticipation. My next dyno will definitely be a bit lower, but I'm happy about it... story to follow in its own thread.
I tend to disagree here. Street tuning is the same as dyno tuning - you chase Air fuel ratios, not what your "butt" is telling you. Sure you don't know what power you are making until you get it on a dyno, but the most power you can make at any point on the power curve will always (ALWAYS) occur at ideal afr for your fuel, rpm and load at a given instant (not withstanding the effects of timing, which are by no means insignificant on the FSDE, as i'm sure Turfburn will agree!!). Dyno tuning simply means you can get these values faster - you can lock the rollers at a specific speed and just vary the throttle to increase load. On the road you need to do some pretty crazy high speed runs to get the info you need, and you generally need to do more of it.
Every dyno tune i've seen has always been followed up with a road tune because a dyno wont help you with getting nice smooth transitions, and will never give you an accurate "feel" for what the car is doing from a drivers perspective.
Dynos have their place, being able to have the bonnet open and listen for knock, being able to get the fuel maps done quickly etc, being able to run the motor in under controlled circumstances and so forth are where a dyno shines... but theres no reason why with a little effort you can't suck every ounce of power out of a ride without using one.
IMHO, the "best" way to tune, is to get the basics done on a dyno, then do all the fine tuning out on the road or race track where you get some real world indications of what the car is doing.
Dynos (unless your tuner has environmental controls) are generally USELESS for tuning differences in air temp, they are utterly useless for indicating how a motor will perform at different altitudes, humidity levels etc.... they are a tool - but nowhere near the be all and end all.
LordWorm and I are on the same page 
. I usually have the driver do most of the runs in 2nd gear as it keeps the speeds reasonable. Some pulls in 3rd gear, but never anything in 4th other than some lower speed low rpm accelerations. So we keep it safe and controlled and generally legal and succeed in what we need to do. It takes a little more attention by the tuner to get the transients right, but some simple "best practices" help take care of it. Really all you do to tune is shape the curves, as long the curve shape stays smooth and you hit the AFR's the transients usually fall into place well and a road tune is great for that. I've almost never gotten any more power out on the dyno after I've completed an in depth road tune. But I also have the J&S and the wideband to work off of, and the J&S is pretty key.
. I usually have the driver do most of the runs in 2nd gear as it keeps the speeds reasonable. Some pulls in 3rd gear, but never anything in 4th other than some lower speed low rpm accelerations. So we keep it safe and controlled and generally legal and succeed in what we need to do. It takes a little more attention by the tuner to get the transients right, but some simple "best practices" help take care of it. Really all you do to tune is shape the curves, as long the curve shape stays smooth and you hit the AFR's the transients usually fall into place well and a road tune is great for that. I've almost never gotten any more power out on the dyno after I've completed an in depth road tune. But I also have the J&S and the wideband to work off of, and the J&S is pretty key.Hmmm... just now realizing this, actually. I'm studying dyno-tuning and AF and ignition tuning (trying to get my license from the chip vendor), and temperature compensation is a whole new jar of tamales for me. Especially since the stock computer seems to be reacting weirdly to temperature, even with O2 intercepted. About to wire the car's coolant sensors up to the chip to check how the car responds to the coolant sensor, because it starts to run strangely hot on the road after extended runs or even in traffic. Changed almost all the cooling system parts and have retuned a bit richer, but still... Yeah, I know, heat soak... but I want to build in some more insurance against terminal heat soak.
Problem is, we've been treating our chip as a straight-up piggy-back when it has a ton of options built in that we haven't touched just yet. O2 clamping, temperature compensation, launch control... We're learning as we go along.
Problem is, we've been treating our chip as a straight-up piggy-back when it has a ton of options built in that we haven't touched just yet. O2 clamping, temperature compensation, launch control... We're learning as we go along.
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Cough Cough.......any updates?
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Cars dead, I bought a smart car, thinking about taking up knitting....
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
just kidding, hopefully going to be getting together with turfburn to smooth out the idle situation. I finally have my spare fsde but have not had any time to play. I'm getting married this fall so we'll see how fast the progress on the p5 goes.
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Put off marriage till the car is done.......If she really loves you she'll understand....lol
you're obviously not married/in the process of getting married are you?
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
- :
- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
No understand completely...... unfortunately. I have a girlfriend of 2 years that hates any type of car forum for the amount time I spend on them
New Threads and Articles
-
-
New 2025 CX-5 with highway vibration problem; tires?- By DarkskiesIL
- Replies: 9
-