p2187 HELP!!

[Super Unique]

a bad purge valve will exhibit the following.

if you fill the gas tank, drive the car until it is empty again, stop , fill the car, now it will be very hard to start, and idle very poorly stalling etc.. for about 10 - 15 seconds then run normal again. also all the time with the bad purge valve it will always feel just a bit "off" in that the idle is just not quite right, some hesitation that comes and goes. I can definitely feel the difference now that mine is fixed. it is just so much smoother than before, and a silky smooth idle now compared to then.

 

[MS3 GT]

a bad purge valve will exhibit the following.

if you fill the gas tank, drive the car until it is empty again, stop , fill the car, now it will be very hard to start, and idle very poorly stalling etc.. for about 10 - 15 seconds then run normal again. also all the time with the bad purge valve it will always feel just a bit "off" in that the idle is just not quite right, some hesitation that comes and goes. I can definitely feel the difference now that mine is fixed. it is just so much smoother than before, and a silky smooth idle now compared to then.

i do get rough idles,but not all the time. mostly when i doing high speed and back into neutal the rpm will drop around 1200rpm, it will drop to normal rpm range until i slow the car down, sometime it wont drop normal idle rpms until i completed stop? and couple of times i was in 1st gear trying to giving lil gas, engine feels like out of power, right within a second all normal again? plus im running super rich now and hearing lots pops? could be the spark plug cause p2187?

 

[Super Unique]

i do get rough idles,but not all the time. mostly when i doing high speed and back into neutal the rpm will drop around 1200rpm, it will drop to normal rpm range until i slow the car down, sometime it wont drop normal idle rpms until i completed stop? and couple of times i was in 1st gear trying to giving lil gas, engine feels like out of power, right within a second all normal again? plus im running super rich now and hearing lots pops? could be the spark plug cause p2187?

I don't believe just a spark plug problem would throw this code. Check out the troubleshooting chart from my previous threads on this issue.

Before bringing the car in for service note the following.


The information you provide the service writer when you pull up and initiate a repair request is critical. Especially on a vague code such as this one. Is your car generally lacking power and stumbling at idle? Does your car have a hard time starting when you get low on gas, does it stall repeatedly after filling the tank up with gas? let them know in detail how it is acting that is not normal.

all P2187 is, is lean at idle. It doesn't tell you WHY it is lean at idle. deductive reasoning would tell you that it is

1. Truly lean at idle, which would indicate air being ingested that is not being metered by the MAF = vacuum leak
a. Bad / leaking or stuck purge valve
b. clamp or connector loose somewhere on intake tract, would also account for boost not holding
2. NOT truly lean at idle =
a. Air is not being metered properly.
1. Air straightener missing in aftermarket intake
2. Dirty MAF sensor
3. MAF sensor faulty
b. A/F ratio not being measured properly = Bad o2 sensor

 

[MS3 GT]

I don't believe just a spark plug problem would throw this code. Check out the troubleshooting chart from my previous threads on this issue.

Before bringing the car in for service note the following.


The information you provide the service writer when you pull up and initiate a repair request is critical. Especially on a vague code such as this one. Is your car generally lacking power and stumbling at idle? Does your car have a hard time starting when you get low on gas, does it stall repeatedly after filling the tank up with gas? let them know in detail how it is acting that is not normal.

all P2187 is, is lean at idle. It doesn't tell you WHY it is lean at idle. deductive reasoning would tell you that it is

1. Truly lean at idle, which would indicate air being ingested that is not being metered by the MAF = vacuum leak
a. Bad / leaking or stuck purge valve
b. clamp or connector loose somewhere on intake tract, would also account for boost not holding
2. NOT truly lean at idle =
a. Air is not being metered properly.
1. Air straightener missing in aftermarket intake
2. Dirty MAF sensor
3. MAF sensor faulty
b. A/F ratio not being measured properly = Bad o2 sensor

thanks for all the info.... i been dealing with this for like almost 6 months now, guess what today the CEL went off again, but im for sure it will come back soon, its been doing it for over the past 6 months. i really have no clue whats going on. the best thing i can do is get a tune.....

 

[MS3 GT]

filled the tank today, started the car and let it idle for 5 mins. seems fine to me, no rought idle. but i realized when i turned the AC my vacuum reads 16 inhg , AC off reads at 20 inhg. so is there a leak???

 

[Super Unique]

filled the tank today, started the car and let it idle for 5 mins. seems fine to me, no rought idle. but i realized when i turned the AC my vacuum reads 16 inhg , AC off reads at 20 inhg. so is there a leak???

my datalogger measures in psi not inches.

When you turn the A/C on, it raises the idle which reduces vacuum slightly

 

[wannabe]

in my speed6 that was a faulty front o2 sensor.


correction: mine was p2177

 

[MS3 GT]

could the engine vailbration cause engine light on and off?? maybe some switches and plugs are losing??

 

[Super Unique]

could the engine vailbration cause engine light on and off?? maybe some switches and plugs are losing??

Honestly your not going to make progress on this issue until you properly log the data to see the various sensor data, check properly for vacuum/boost leaks and test the various sensors to figure out where the problem is. I wouldn't entirely rule out purge valve, but it certainly could be. it can also be a bad MAF sensor, O2 sensor, etc...

If you have a warranty to cover it, by all means take to the dealer, and keep doing so until they fix it.

If your not under any warranty at this point, your going to want to find out for sure which sensor is causing it, instead of spending mad $$$ just throwing parts at it.

 

[MS3 GT]

Honestly your not going to make progress on this issue until you properly log the data to see the various sensor data, check properly for vacuum/boost leaks and test the various sensors to figure out where the problem is. I wouldn't entirely rule out purge valve, but it certainly could be. it can also be a bad MAF sensor, O2 sensor, etc...

If you have a warranty to cover it, by all means take to the dealer, and keep doing so until they fix it.

If your not under any warranty at this point, your going to want to find out for sure which sensor is causing it, instead of spending mad $$$ just throwing parts at it.

thats the point, im already out of warranty....so its better to have something like dashhawk to monitor my engine, im really need 1 of those,, but im so tight on $$$$$

 

[Ambersand]

CEL on and off - Dealer said this

could the engine vailbration cause engine light on and off?? maybe some switches and plugs are losing??

The dealer explained and I see it myself, that 3 non-faulty drives of the vehicle in a row will clear the CEL. I know with my P2187 issues its like clockwork - light on, three drives of the car, light turns off at start up, then cycle starts all over again...