P0705 Read all I could find just had some more questions.

Sounds like you need to replace the wire,... The ECU isn't getting a proper signal from the neutral switch.

The weather could possibly affect the wire itself by shorting or opening the harness based on temperature, vibration whatever ??? Or the ECU may possibly wait for an engine shut-off to establish a full drive cycle ??? (The ECU doesn't really have too much documentation available for it,... it's really kind of a magic box)

The wire replacement really isn't that big a job,... cut the pink/green wire,.. splice in a new wire,... run it through the firewall,.. connect it to the switch,... connect the other wire from the switch to ground (ground it anywhere you want). You could do all that in less than half an hour.

I am going to give this a go after a trip I need to take this weekend. So I should go for the neutral safety first? or the backup light or the Cruise disengage, because all three of these will independently give that code...
 
One more thing I noticed... when the car is warmed up it idles constantly at around 700 rpm, maybe, the ECU is reading clutch engaged? like at all times.
 
You should go for the neutral switch first.
The ECU looks for either the neutral switch or the clutch switch (or both) to enable the iac valve.
I'm pretty sure the cruise control circuit is separate. Does the cruise shut off when you hit the clutch ??
Your idle is right if it's at 700 rpm. Either the neutral switch or the clutch switch is working, to enable the iac valve.
Rewire that pink wire.
 
You should go for the neutral switch first.
The ECU looks for either the neutral switch or the clutch switch (or both) to enable the iac valve.
I'm pretty sure the cruise control circuit is separate. Does the cruise shut off when you hit the clutch ??
Your idle is right if it's at 700 rpm. Either the neutral switch or the clutch switch is working, to enable the iac valve.
Rewire that pink wire.

I got what your saying, I will as soon as I get some garage time, because at this point I don't believe it could be anything else. looking at the diagram, I would have to say that that switch takes way too long of a trip to the ECU and that was poor engineering and sooner or later they're going to short.
 
Just so everyone knows, I have not tried this yet, I have been very busy, I am going to put in new motor mounts and headers in the next few weeks I will try to resolve this issue then.
 

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