Opinions Please!

ZNickey

Member
:
Hopefully a 2001 MP3
Hi,
I am new to this VB style forum so forgive me if I am beating a dead horse as I am still working on how to selectively search. Also forgive me for presenting you with a near novel length post. I have a 03 MSP in metallic orange with about 106k miles on it which I purchased a few days ago. Overall, the car is in good shape with some need for a lil TLC. Some things are obvious and simple and other things I want to bounce off you experts and get your thoughts before diving right in. Some of this I am sure is covered but I would like advice for my own situation given all situations are unique and having a thread I can print off and use as a reference would be most helpful. Your time and expertise is greatly appreciated and I thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide me.

----------------Here are some questions I kindly ask for assistance with:--------------------

***Time Urgent and Pre-Numbered Question: I am going to see a Mazda performance specialist tomorrow afternoon. Is there anything I should specifically ask him regarding the vehicle and is there anything (such as a TSB which the dealers dont touch unless it goes bad) I should request that they do ASAP or common problem areas?***

1) The idle is rather low, 500-600 and it gives the car issues such as the shaking and sometimes the car will just choke. I figure this is related to what the car was tuned for and plan to take it to a Mazda performance shop in a few days to have them look it over and throw it on a dyno and tune. Any thoughts or things I am missing?
1A) For tuning the AFRs, Timing, etc, is there a preference or ideal system or is the SAFC II still the reasonably priced standard?
1B) Another possibility is the filter on my Short Ram Intake is dirty as can be. Is it worth washing, oiling and reusing or should I just chuck it and buy a new one? The one on their now is made by Injen as is the rest of the intake. Are there less expensive filters that work well? (as you pay a premium for Injen it seems).

2) The black plastic lip in the front is cracked and missing about a foot of it. What do you guys do? Do you replace it, remove it or just get something else like a small CF lip?

3) The steering wheel needs some rehab. The gray colored inserts at the 3 and 9 oclock position is worn badly and is torn on one side. Is there anything that can be done without having to remove or replace the steering wheel as I imagine screwing with that is costly given the air-bag is within the steering wheel?

4) The bumpers need to be locked/clipped into place. The front bumper is in perfect condition but one side pops in and out as the clips are missing. Any idea what clips are needed or what the best way to go about it? The back bumper is a little low too, any suggestions?

5) I only have 1 Key Fob and 1 valet key. Can the key fobs for this car be programmed by me or are they more advanced and call for a dealership or specialist? Are they expensive to purchase?

6) Is a 225/45/17 series tire okay without rubbing or fender rolling? I have 215s on it now and I HATE the tire and plan to go to a Michelin Pilot Sport Plus A/S.

7) Is there a preference on what you tap into when hardwiring a radar detector and/or laser jamming device?

8) The cars suspension squeaks. It was very bad when I first got it and has been getting better progressively. I am sure the car sat for a while undriven and this didnt help it. Will having the chassis lubed help reduce squeaking?

9) The upper portion of my coolant res is cracked. Does this happen a lot and is a standard plastic sealant designed for plastic automotive tanks okay to use?

10) The horn fuse is missing which is a 15 amp female and I cannot find it locally for the life of me. Where do you get these fuses at? The local autoparts stores don't have them...maybe a Radio Shack?

11) Does this car have tendency to blow out headlights? As for an upgrade is there a certain bulb company which gets along best with this car? Are the heads and fogs BOTH H4 or just the headlights? I've had luck with Silverstars and PIAAs but some vehicles seem to like one better than the other. Does anyone use any unusual colors in the fogs to accent the car?

12) Is this paint okay to use a polymer/synthetic seal/wax on it?

13) Are the stock brakes rather good or do most people upgrade them? I'de assume they are pretty darned good as this car on a twisted track seems to beat out much more powerful vehicles and braking is a critical aspect in that situation. Are steel brake lines popular here?

14) What is the preferred oil filter, if any, that allows maximum flow? Is there a preferred oil? How about brake and manual transmission fluid? My car is modded with aspects which seem to help increase the heat. I've always used either Amsoil or Red Line but I'll try anything once.

15) My car does not have speakers in the trunk deck. It has working speakers in the front and rear doors. Is this stock or was something changed? It does not have the stock Kenwood headunit but instead an older but quality Alpine.

16) Are there any basic DIY mods, changes or maintenance that you absolutely should do no matter what? (Ex: for the Nissan SE-R Spec V the butterfly valve screws would pop out as the factory did not use threadlock and so anyone with a 02-05 Spec V should rip the head off (or have someone do it for you), remove, Loctite and replace the screws as once the screws get sucked into the engine, it causes the engine to essentially die an early death.

17) Anything else you can think of, any advice, etc?


Thank you very much in advance. I have attached a picture of my 03 MSP. Well, while I am still many years away from fulfilling all of my life and long term goals, I can say I have knocked one out with this car. Perhaps another is making it fast enough to kill my best friends WRX. With that said, I still need to get more experience driving a manual turbo car and no matter how much power I make, it isnt going to compensate for lack of skill. It amazes me how different this car is from the numerous NA vehicles I have owneddifferent yet good; horray for forced induction!



Below are some pictures of my car!
 

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Okay so apparently there was a little confusion between the words "CAR" and "BAR". With that said, if you look at the "BAR" pictures, the happiness displayed will sum up to you just how happy I am to have this "CAR". Indeed, this "CAR" is a great ride to show up with at the "BAR", and believe me, I love both "CARS" and "BARS".
 
As for the key FOB's I am almost positive you have to have the dealer reprogram them.

As for the squeaking, these cars have a notorious rear sway bar squeak. Get used to it or get under the car every other month to lube it to keep the squeaking at bay.

Unless you really are a trackstar, stock brakes work well. I used stock rotors and pads for a few autocross events and they held up fine. This is my opinion though.

As for most of your other questions I would do a little research on this forum. There are many posts/threads leading to more answers than most have questions about. A few hours on here can get you a fair bit of knowledge to help you find your answers.
 
As for the key FOB's I am almost positive you have to have the dealer reprogram them.

As for the squeaking, these cars have a notorious rear sway bar squeak. Get used to it or get under the car every other month to lube it to keep the squeaking at bay.

Unless you really are a trackstar, stock brakes work well. I used stock rotors and pads for a few autocross events and they held up fine. This is my opinion though.

As for most of your other questions I would do a little research on this forum. There are many posts/threads leading to more answers than most have questions about. A few hours on here can get you a fair bit of knowledge to help you find your answers.


you can program the FOBS yourself- there is a how-to in the "how-to" section.
 
Car..schmar..bar..same-same! Yer smiling in all the pics so all's good.

Welcome and you'll get some great tech help & good info here...
 
Welcome! Where in Baltimore are you? I'm only about 40 mins north of Baltimore city.
 
I live in Lutherville but spend most of my time in Towson as it's my stomping ground. If not I am down Federal Hill or Fells Point. Are a lot of people from here near B-Mo? We may have to have a drinking night...

Welcome! Where in Baltimore are you? I'm only about 40 mins north of Baltimore city.
 
The car was examined by my performance shop and looks good. I had the bumpers secured, replaced the SRI filter, changed to NGK copper spark plugs 1 step colder, + had HIDs installed. It currently has:
-Upgraded FMIC
-Injen SRI
-Crappy 2.5 inch crush bent exhaust
-Boost gauge and AFR gauge
-Greddy Turbo Timer
-HID headlights

Okay, I have been searching non stop and there are some things I cannot find.

-What can I do about the steering wheel which has major wear on the silver parts at 9/3 oclock?

-Is there a thread/sticky dedicated to upgrading the turbo? I want to do a GT28RS (or similar turbo) and whatever other things are necessary (3 in exhaust, engine management, manifold, BOV, larger fuel pump/600cc injectors, upgraded oil and coolant lines, stage 2/3 clutch, stronger motor mounts/inserts)...target horsepower is in the ballpark of 250 WHP. Questions and topics regarding this are extremely specefic. I want to see a thread that discusses upgrade options, what is needed and what the stock bottom end can take boost wise.

-Can I purchase another black plastic or carbon fiber lip to replace my cracked one? I can find out how to remove it but I cant find the actual lip itself for sale.
 
read: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123677826

I don't think you need 600cc injectors, maybe some 440s and you should be ok with the stock turbo up to that range. I wouldn't upgrade the turbo until you rebuild the bottom end with forged internals. The stock internals are very weak and they have been known to fail around 10+ psi. Some have been brave enought to pass that threshold and go to to around 12-14 psi but then you better have a very reliable tune with no room for error. For tuning, you can get your goals with the Unichip piggyback. The only thing is it is only tunable by an authorized Unichip tuner/dealer and that can get a little pricey. You can also look until the SSAFC or SSFTC, it is tunable by you or a tuner. For exhaust, I have the Corksport catless 2.4in exhaust and love it but will be upgrading to their new 80mm exhaust. That is an option for you. Upgraded motor mounts are a must if you want to save your LSD or just upgrade to a welded replacement or get an Mfactory and forget it. You can upgrade your fuel pump and an exhaust manifold is not a bad idea. You can mod the stock intake manifold by deleting the VTCS and maybe the VICS. Someone else can chime in about that. A BOV is not really needed, just run an upgraded BPV unless you just want the sound of a BOV. The car will run crappy with a BOV unless you run a dual setup or relocate your MAF sensor. A stage 1 or 2 clutch shoud be ok depending on the brand it is. and your oil and coolant lines should be ok. You can put new Orings on the oil line going to the turbo. Check your water return elbow and see if it is the revised one(blue line around it) Other than that, that should be it. Ill post a couple of links to threads on here so you can get a rough idea of what to do. I also posted a pic of my water return elbow just in case you wanted to see the revised one

build threads: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123764243
here is a current thread of different members boost levels: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776932
200hp thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776924
EMS setups: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89457
exhaust manifolds: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123663213
you should find out if the car has been reflashed, here is a little info on it: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123625276
 

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I would say to go for the entire set of motor mounts to replace your stock ones, and good luck on the 250 hp rating on that car without building the motor. But welcome, it'll be nice to have your enthsiasm to improve the mood on the msp board. I am a newer msp driver as well, so I haven't become disillusioned yet.

Thad.
 
I live in Lutherville but spend most of my time in Towson as it's my stomping ground. If not I am down Federal Hill or Fells Point. Are a lot of people from here near B-Mo? We may have to have a drinking night...

Oh dang! You're only about 30 mins away. I used to work at a shop in Cockeysville called Moto Strada, a little scooter shop. I am also soon to be moving to Parkville and also spend a lot of time in Towson! We may have to have a drinking night. It'd be nice to have a little meet and greet and whatever beings as ive only seen one other MSP around and that was at the college park tuning meet.

By the way sorry for the thread jack.
 
I live in Lutherville but spend most of my time in Towson as it's my stomping ground. If not I am down Federal Hill or Fells Point. Are a lot of people from here near B-Mo? We may have to have a drinking night...

well good to see another MD'er! congrats on the buy! we actually have a meet and greet coming up this saturday, 3pm at the montgomery mall. info can be found here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123775287
hope to see you there!
 
My best friends all live in Parkville so the night usually starts their. Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri and Sat are all do something days. By all means come party. Nothing beats having a few beers, getting shitfaced, taking your shirt off as if you are Fabio and then sing a song completely off key. No but really when you are up for something give me a ring, I'll shoot you a PM of my cell
Zac


Oh dang! You're only about 30 mins away. I used to work at a shop in Cockeysville called Moto Strada, a little scooter shop. I am also soon to be moving to Parkville and also spend a lot of time in Towson! We may have to have a drinking night. It'd be nice to have a little meet and greet and whatever beings as ive only seen one other MSP around and that was at the college park tuning meet.

By the way sorry for the thread jack.
 
Thank you so much for all this information! My guy feels that 250-300 on the stock bottom end will be okay (he says NOTHING above 300 tho) with the in shop tune they do on their own dyno, their preference of engine management, upgraded pump and injectors and other related accessories. He's been doing it since I was in elementary school and they have done numerous MSP's and so I trust him on it. With that said, given the info below I am going to seriously consider internals whether they be immediate or down the road. The first this is getting this crappy exhaust off as it is crush bent, was welded poorly and isnt near legal for emissions. I chose the Vibrant turboback exhaust givin it has both a res and high flow cat and also comes in 3 inch piping.

read: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123677826

I don't think you need 600cc injectors, maybe some 440s and you should be ok with the stock turbo up to that range. I wouldn't upgrade the turbo until you rebuild the bottom end with forged internals. The stock internals are very weak and they have been known to fail around 10+ psi. Some have been brave enought to pass that threshold and go to to around 12-14 psi but then you better have a very reliable tune with no room for error. For tuning, you can get your goals with the Unichip piggyback. The only thing is it is only tunable by an authorized Unichip tuner/dealer and that can get a little pricey. You can also look until the SSAFC or SSFTC, it is tunable by you or a tuner. For exhaust, I have the Corksport catless 2.4in exhaust and love it but will be upgrading to their new 80mm exhaust. That is an option for you. Upgraded motor mounts are a must if you want to save your LSD or just upgrade to a welded replacement or get an Mfactory and forget it. You can upgrade your fuel pump and an exhaust manifold is not a bad idea. You can mod the stock intake manifold by deleting the VTCS and maybe the VICS. Someone else can chime in about that. A BOV is not really needed, just run an upgraded BPV unless you just want the sound of a BOV. The car will run crappy with a BOV unless you run a dual setup or relocate your MAF sensor. A stage 1 or 2 clutch shoud be ok depending on the brand it is. and your oil and coolant lines should be ok. You can put new Orings on the oil line going to the turbo. Check your water return elbow and see if it is the revised one(blue line around it) Other than that, that should be it. Ill post a couple of links to threads on here so you can get a rough idea of what to do. I also posted a pic of my water return elbow just in case you wanted to see the revised one

build threads: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123764243
here is a current thread of different members boost levels: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776932
200hp thread: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776924
EMS setups: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89457
exhaust manifolds: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123663213
you should find out if the car has been reflashed, here is a little info on it: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123625276
 
you should definitely look into rebuilding the motor for that power range. It can be done with a ROCK SOLID tune but that is sort of like playing with suicide every time you go into boost. There are a few that have gotten good numbers with stock internals. I believe Pirahna got 275 on stock internals with the Unichip and 505zoom going like 277 or something like that, so it is possible.
 
I'm not against going with the built internals...with that said I would phase it due to costs as the next mods would be the turbo/manifold/engine management/fuel upgrades/clutch/and probably a better tire (can you say PS2 or GSD3F1?). The shop seems confident that they can get it safely in the range and they have done a lot more with the MSP's than any other shop around, but truth be told I am sure you get more reliability and certainly more options with built. Furthermore, I may not want to be at the 300WHP mark after they bump it up more as I am sure it begins to lose its streetability. The tuning would be done by my shop on their in-house dyno. I've never been one for doing tuning myself as I have had a lot of friends do it only to find out that a) they tuned it wrong and bad things happened or b) they could have made a lot more power having someone else do it who does it every day.
 

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