OK which 1 of these oils would you pick

[Laser03pro]

Dont only special places carry amsoil like redline and royal purple.

 

[TurfBurn]

Please do post!!! Amsoil dealer online is music to my ears!! You just have to convince me (just pm me) to use your gear oil instead of Redline. Otherwise you guys are definitely my A-Lister.

I believe that as long as you aren't "selling" anything in your posts you are very much allowed to post info.

Hello all:

Hope no one minds me posting here while I wait for my approved vendor status to be finalized. I am an Amsoil dealer and would like to particpate in this discussion about oils and what makes them good or bad.

Flyguy

 

[TurfBurn]

Dont only special places carry amsoil like redline and royal purple.

Your post is confusing... but amsoil, redline, and royal purple are all oils. But yes typically only special places/racing stores typically will carry the products. Amsoil can be found though with some good motorcycle shops I believe as it's used a lot for those poor engines.

 

[flyguy]

Thanks Turfburn:

I guess technically I'm not selling anything but but being a dealer and talking about the product I sell might annoy some people so just wanted to make sure I'm not stepping on anyone's toes.

I've never used Royal Purple or Redline so I can't comment personally on how these oils might perform but I've sold a ton of Amsoil and have very loyal customers. One of my customers had a ground-pounding supercharged Corvette with problems overheating. The engine simply generated too much heat for the small engine compartment and small opening to the rad. He tried replacing the 2 core rad with a 3 core, installing a high speed electric cooling fan and cutting open the hood just in front of the windshield but the problem persisted. The problem wasn't solved until he replaced the petroleum oil with Amsoil 20w-50. The other efforts obviously helped but so did switching the oil.

I'll say this: almost any synthetic oil is better than the best petroleum oil. Really, petroleum oil is a product that should be retired for good. Nobody would buy tires made from natural rubber when synthetic rubber compounds are so vastly superior. Same thing with oil.

Flyguy

Please do post!!! Amsoil dealer online is music to my ears!! You just have to convince me (just pm me) to use your gear oil instead of Redline. Otherwise you guys are definitely my A-Lister.

I believe that as long as you aren't "selling" anything in your posts you are very much allowed to post info.

 

[TurfBurn]

Well there was one problem that arose with synth's over in the Lancer community. Unfortunately the oil pump tolerances were too wide and synth oils wouldn't get enough oil pressure in the car. Cost one gentleman his engine when the 4th cylinder became starved for oil. He was even running a 15w50 Mobil 1, but it was too "thin" was the belief. In other words people felt that the viscosity/low coefficients of friction contributed to it. I believe it happened to two vehicles, and some service techs admitted that they had seen a few cars do it that were running synth. But in general synth is far superior for it's integrity and ability to protect against wear to even greater lengths. Some of the first synths were pretty terrible I thought I hear, so there is probably still some "worry" left over from that.

Later.

Steve

 

[flyguy]

Wow, there's a lot wrapped up in that one post. I am not familiar with that problem or with Lancers in general but I'd be hesitant to say that this happened due to the oil being too thin. If anything I'd say it was due to the oil being too thick. You definely need to be careful with the viscosity of the oil you select. In general, you can choose any oil that covers the manufacturers recommended range and I highly doubt that Mitsu recommended 15w-50. I would not recommend such an oil unless there was a demonstrated problem at the high end of the range and the car was only being used for racing.

I may not have got the facts of this particular situation right but, assuming Mitsu recommend a 5w-30, the 15w-50 would be thicker at cold tempatures and thicker at high temperatures so their feeling that the oil was too thin doesn't seem to adequately explain the failure.

For someone who doesn't know what to look for; oil starvation due to the oil being too thick could just show up as low oil pressure. This would depend, of course, on the oil, the engine and the configuration of the pump and OP sending unit.

I'd like to research this some more, you wouldn't happen to recall which model and year, or have a link?

Thanks
Doug

 

[thumpr]

so viscosity ratings for synth oil is the same as petro oil. i've always wondered this, if maybe you know 10w30 meant the same thing, same temperature sensitivity for both kinds.

 

[TurfBurn]

from my understanding the viscosities are the same (hence the spec) but that the coefficient of friction is typically somewhat less..

flyguy. I'll Pm you a link when I get a chance. But it was an 02 or 03 Mits Lancer running with a turbo... I'll send you that link though

Welcome to the forum! Hopefully you stick around and can put up with some of the politics on here. Good info and good vendors are much needed.

Thanks!

 

[flyguy]

Petroleum and synthetic oils are both designed and intended for operation in a certain temperature range. Synthetic oils will always give better performance than a petroleum oil in that range but some people get this idea that more is better. Take an engine that is designed for a specific viscosity oil and put straight 60 Synthetic racing oil in it and you're looking at trouble. Best advice is to stick with the engine manufacturers recommended viscosity for the high temperature but to use the best synthetic you can find in that viscosity. The only time I say to someone to choose a different high temperature viscosity oil is when it's a special purpose racing vehicle and there is concern out high operating temperatures.

Low temperature viscosity is not as much of a concern. If the manufacturer recommends 10w-30 and you have 5w-30 or even 0w-30 not much to worry about. Basically the oil can't be to thin when you're starting a cold engine as long as your oil is ok for the same or lower temp than the manufacturer recommends.

flyguy

so viscosity ratings for synth oil is the same as petro oil. i've always wondered this, if maybe you know 10w30 meant the same thing, same temperature sensitivity for both kinds.

 

[TurfBurn]

So what about turboed applications. A protege I believe recommends a 5w30... but what should a turboed car use? If I go from NA to running 10 psi daily??

 

[flyguy]

A turbo'd car is not necessarily that much harder on the oil than nonturbo but it certainly has the potential to burn up the oil. Personally, I don't think anybody here, from the sounds of it most are quite knowledgeable, would abuse the engine by running it hot and hard and then just shutting it off and walking away without at least some cool down. Amsoil's recommendation for nonturbo is somewhere between 5 to 7 times longer than the manufacturers and for turbo it is 2 to 3 times longer.

You will do your oil and your engine a lot of good by warming it up easily and cooling it down gently.

flyguy

So what about turboed applications. A protege I believe recommends a 5w30... but what should a turboed car use? If I go from NA to running 10 psi daily??

 

[TurfBurn]

Is there any reason to run a heavier weight then in a turbo car? It seems to be that more or less everyone does go ahead and run a fair bit heavier weight oil as soon as they go turbo.

Personally I like to run as much boost as possible from the moment the key turns on to the moment it goes off... Kidding!!!!!

A turbo'd car is not necessarily that much harder on the oil than nonturbo but it certainly has the potential to burn up the oil. Personally, I don't think anybody here, from the sounds of it most are quite knowledgeable, would abuse the engine by running it hot and hard and then just shutting it off and walking away without at least some cool down. Amsoil's recommendation for nonturbo is somewhere between 5 to 7 times longer than the manufacturers and for turbo it is 2 to 3 times longer.

You will do your oil and your engine a lot of good by warming it up easily and cooling it down gently.

flyguy

 

[Togan]

castrol kicks ass


has anyone watched the commercial where 2 cars drag race?

 

[flyguy]

Well, modifying your engine by adding a turbo is not without risk. I think most people feel that the car will be run hotter and will be harder on the oil and therefore needs a heavier oil but don't forget that the rest of the engine may have been designed around a lighter weight oil. Doing what you think is right for the turbo might be wrong for the rest of the system. What guidance do you get from the turbo manufacturer?

flyguy

Is there any reason to run a heavier weight then in a turbo car? It seems to be that more or less everyone does go ahead and run a fair bit heavier weight oil as soon as they go turbo.

Personally I like to run as much boost as possible from the moment the key turns on to the moment it goes off... Kidding!!!!!

 

[RyanJayG]

flyguy, I've heard of people never changing a synth oil. from what I've been told, it doesn't ever really break down, so all they do is change the filter and drain/add a quart. is this fallacy or truth?

 

[Laser03pro]

Yeh i know there oil i was just saying i havnt seen amsoil.

 

[shinzen]

I am running mobil 1 currently with redline mt 90 for my tranny(picked it up at a local bike shop) But I will probably switch to the amsoil here in about 7k from what I have been hearing(just because I did an oil change about 500 miles ago and still have some more mobil 1 lying around.)

 

[Laser03pro]

Yeh what about manual trans oil i was thinkin about royal purple. do you have to wait to many miles for the tranny to break in to use that also? What kind of oil does it take i know my camaro manual trans take ATF kinda weird but what it calls for.

 

[flyguy]

Yes this is something you can do with Amsoil. It's a three part system: the first part is Amsoil synthetic oil, of course, the second part is an oil-wetted open cell foam air filter and the third part is a auxillary filter (called a bypass filter). The bypass filter and the full-flow filter are attached to a flow divider and mounted remotely from the engine. Here's a link to some pictures of the filters:

http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/index.htm

It's an outstanding system. The bypass filter will filter to .5 micron while a normal full-flow will only filter to 20 micron. This keeps the oil so clean that it hardly changes color. Using oil analysis you can determine at what intervals the filters need to be changed for chemical deteriorization. Changing the filters will remove approximately 1.5 qts. When this is topped up the new oil restores the proper chemical balance and away you go.

For obvious reasons this is better suited to vehicles with large sump capacities and a little extra space up the hood to mount the filters and flow divider. One particular semi went 409,000 miles without an oil change. Regular filter changes, and the associated top ups where done of course so the fresh oil was added.

Attempting this without the bypass filter would be detrimental to your engine as particles below 20 micron would just continue to accumulate and these particles are the cause of much of the wear in the engine.

flyguy

flyguy, I've heard of people never changing a synth oil. from what I've been told, it doesn't ever really break down, so all they do is change the filter and drain/add a quart. is this fallacy or truth?

 

[RyanJayG]

so basically you need a sump and a .5 micron filter to pull it off... interesting. we have stuff just like this at work that I could "borrow". hehehe

we have some really nice filters and filter heads that we use to filter the hydraulic oil into the EDC of our Sauer Sundstrand pumps (about $30,000 a pump). and I know we have some small electric gear pumps lying around... this could be my next project.