oil pan rust and other issues

Adam02es

Member
:
Thinking about another Mazda...
How long does it typically take for the oil pan to rust through? Last time I had my oil changed the mechanic said the oil pan was in rough shape and he would be amazed if it survived the winter. The car is an '02 ES with 53000 miles and has spent its life near Boston. I think 5 years and 53000 miles is a little early for this problem...am I off base here?

I am mainly worried that that a prematurely rusted oil pan is a sign of bad things to come. About a year ago I was told I would eventually need a new emergency brake cable on the left side; however, the mechanic thought I should just wait to see if the car would actually fail an inspection because of this, since the labor required to remove rusted bolts could be expensive. In addition, I had to replace the front pipe on the exhaust earlier this summer. The mechanic that made that repair thought it was a little early for the front pipe to start leaking, as exhaust systems generally deteriorate starting at the muffler and working back toward the engine.

The bottom line is that while none of these repairs are catastrophic, they aren't the repairs I would associate with a five-year-old car and have me worried about the long-term viability of this car. I was hoping to hang onto it for at least another three years, as it is finally paid off in October. In addition, the car is due for some significant maintenance items soon (basically inspection II, though I plan to just give an indy mechanic an itemized list rather than pay the stealer $600 or whatever for their full service). Beyond required maintenance, I would like to ditch my all season rubber in favor of dedicated seasonal rubber. That would suck if I shell out for the tires only to have the car rust out from underneath me.

It seems pointless to hang onto it if the depreciation combined with a significant increase in maintenance and repairs completely offsets the savings of not having a car payment.

Should I be worried about keeping this car for the long-haul and only do the minimal while I start looking for something else, or are these problems within the normal range of wear and tear, and I need to suck it up and do what it takes to keep this thing running well for a few more years?
 
How much does the stealership charge for an oil pan? If it's a fair amount, I'm just going to get an AWR...
 
I asked the stealership for an estimate and they guessed high $300s, maybe even high $400s (USD). They didn't actually look it up, just tossed up a guess. The part is relatively inexpensive, I'm not sure what's going to happen with labor. I think you have to remove the front pipe to get to it. Incidentally, I had to have that replaced back in June. If I remember right, that was about 2.5 hours worth of labor. This was at an indy shop.
 
i have an oil pan, well 2 of them really.. i sprayed mine with a truck bed liner, it stay nice and black and pretty..or try the rust eating/converting paint. and just spray the pan one or twice a year when doing an oil chang.. if you want a pan, let me know..
 
Sorry it took me so long to respond. I sent a PM regarding an oil pan.

That's hilarious that you sprayed it with a truck bed liner. It sounds like a good idea. If I were to do that, is there anything to watch out for, or just hose it down? For example, are tolerances so tight that going overboard with the bed liner would prevent it from being installed? Just stay away from areas where the bolts would go? This is probably a better bet for me, as I go to the shop for oil changes.

I would like to get into doing more of my own maintenance, but there are some obstacles. I have no idea where I would dispose of the used oil, and I think my landlord would frown on oil stains all over the driveway.
 
You shouldn't need to spray the inside of the pan with anything as oil is a great rust inhibitor. I've never seen an oil pan rust through. I've seen some with some pretty good rust on the exterior but nothing that should be an issue.

And as far as changing your own oil- it's easy. You can get an oil catch can at your local autoparts store/wal-mart. And you can return used oil to most autopart stores. Or you community may have a hazordous chemical drop off place that you can take it to. Whatever you do, you shouldn't have to pay for dropping oil used oil.
 
I would spray the outside of the new oil pan to make sure it lasts. I doubt I will be driving the car for as long as it will take the next oil pan to rust through, but I like to be sure.

Who knows, maybe the shop is lying and the oil pan will be fine? It was my first time taking the car to this shop, but they do have a good reputation. Given that I have already had to replace the front pipe, which is right in front of the oil pan, it certainly sounds believable.

As far as changing my own oil goes, once upon a time, I used to do this. I guess I just didn't do it often enough to get it done without spilling some oil as soon as the drain plug comes out. The city where I used to live had a drop off tank at the police station, not sure about the one where I am now. I didn't know autoparts stores might take it - I will have to look into that. Basically, after a couple of oil changes, I decided that for all the dirt and hassle, typical labor charges for changing it aren't that bad. Then again, changing it myself would give me some piece of mind knowing that synthetic oil was actually used and the filter was actually changed.

On a side note Tom03es, what's your take on the General Exclaim tires mentioned in your sig? I was thinking of switching to those in the spring (currently on Kumho ASXs, and I'm not a fan). How about the MSP struts and springs? I think part of me can't wait for the day when my struts die so I can swap them out for the MSP set. My goal is to slightly lower the car to close the wheel gap without making the ride over the wonderfully maintained roads of Boston abusive.
 
The General Tires have been great so far. Tire Rack doesn't recommend using them in snow and I have a set of Hankook Winter iPikes that I'm currently driving on now anyway.

And the MSP struts/springs have also been great. They lowered the car just a tad and stiffened up the ride just a tad as well. No complaints there either. It's a great set up without compromising ride quality or driveability because the car is too low. But with all that said, I'm really thinking about getting some Tein S-Tech springs next.
 

New Threads

Back