Oil for a 2003 MSP?

yashooa

Full Metal Mazda
:
MSP, The BLACKNESS!
What kind of oil are you guys...ahem "people" :)
Using?
My dealer says to change it at 5000 mile intervals but do any of you recommend 3000? If so why?
Im not a tard but our other Mazda (a 2002 PR5) we bought last yr has a 6 yr unlimted mile Autonation agreement that covers all lubrication, belts and tire rotation. So I never even have to think about it.
Too bad I couldnt get the same deal this yr with my 2003 MSP.
These are the first two cars I have ever actually cared enough about to change the oil on time :)
I owned a couple 200k + mile RX7's that I hardly ever changed it in just added it and they ran forever until I gave them away. Only paid 1000.00$ apiece for them yrs ago.

Thanks...
 
Mobil 1 synthetic - every 5,000 miles

I have spoken with many people, mechanics, etc... regarding intervals; and they said with Mobil 1, every 5,000 miles is fine, and the oil filter would also be fine to 5,000 miles. Some people even go beyond that. Some people insist on 3,000. When I was using Castrol in the past, I changed every 3,000. Not anymore.
 
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic for my wagon. I change it every 3750 miles. This is the recomended miles from my manual, using dino oil of course. But I still change it even though I have synthetic.
 
the mazda tech from my dealer is calling me today to talk about it(his request not mine, kinda weird) i will let you guys know what he said, but on the phone he said that the "break-in oil" should prolly be changed around 1500-2000 miles. you never can be too careful.
 
my tech just called and said that there is no so-called "break-in oil" and that synthetic should not be used on the turbo...
 
nattyboy513 said:
my tech just called and said that there is no so-called "break-in oil" and that synthetic should not be used on the turbo...

I do not understand that statement...... I have talked to several WRX owners as well, and they are using Synthetic (Mobil 1).
 
same here

i have now heard 2 dealers (orangeappeal's in RI) and yours that said NO synthetic. Mine said not until 15 THOUSAND MILES??!?!?! and i think someone else's said 20k or something? Meanwhile my mechanic who has worked on saab turbos and subarus for fuggin ever says synthetic should be fine and is the BEST thing for turbos since it will not leave any residue or anything in the turbo if you dont let it cool down like a non-synthetic might. Although he IS having me wait until my 2nd oil change to switch to synthetic....he suggested that that would be sufficient time for the engine to get "broken in" by normal oil...

How is it possible for a synthetic oil to be bad for a car? any car?

and how far did you all go before your first oil change?

do p5/es owners run synthetic oil? and if so should we call calloway to see if they would recommend/not reccomend (off the record of course) using synthetics with the turbo?
 
For a turbo charged engine, sythetic is the way to go. It creates less friction between the engine parts, and it dosent break down under high heat and pressure.
 
WOW

Thanks for all the input. I know for sure that Callaway has been using Synthetic oils in his twin turbo vettes for some time.
So In light of that I'll bet that it would be an acceptable practice for our MSP. The enthusiasm of this forum is great. I really look forward to coming here and reading up on everyones ideas and experiences. It will definitely be another part of what makes this car enjoyable to own.
 
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Synthetic oil is only bad for rotaries, for all other cars it's good.
Rotaries need for the oil to burn as part of the combustion, and synthetic won't burn, it just ashes. So in a rotary it causes all kinds of problems. All BMW M cars, AMG cars, Jaguars, Benz's, the C5 Corvette, the Evo, the Sti, and others all come with synthetic from the factory! No break in before switching as long as it's not a esther based.If it's a esther based oil then you need to switch after 5-7,000 miles. it's fine to switch to mobil 1 whenever you want, and to Redline after 5-6,000 miles. Synthetic should especially be used on turbo's. The extra heat generated by turbos cause normal oil to break down faster, the more uniform molecular chains of synthetic are less prone to heat stress and there fore retain viscocity under more severe temperatures.
They also don't "coke" so they don't build up debris and coke on the turbo bearing, and especially on an MSP with an expensive ball bearing center you don't want to ruin it byt running regular oil. It also runs cooler because synthetic has such a significant reduction in surface friction that engines tend to run 10-20 degrees cooler under hard driving.
 
So Spicy

With an explanation like that concerning oil. I would be willing to bet you werent the one in sewing classes at school :)
And if you were well that just means your well dressed and well lubed.

Thanks for the input.
 
I've never heard anything but positive comments about using Synthetic in a turbocharged engine. I have heard several times that it's best to break in an engine with regular dino oil. Something about regular oil bonding with any metal shavings that might occur during break in so that the shavings come out of the engine with the oil at change-time. I'm coming up on my first change, I think I'll have the dealer do a regular change since I'm going to have them look into a couple of other things as well. My second change at about 6000 I'll be switching to mobil 1.
 
It's going to be cold here in Toronto for another month or so, Tonight we're reaching to - 25 degrees..... in the mean time, if i get my oil change, should i go with 10w30 or just regular 5w30?
 
SpicyMSP said:
Synthetic oil is only bad for rotaries, for all other cars it's good.
Rotaries need for the oil to burn as part of the combustion, and synthetic won't burn, it just ashes. So in a rotary it causes all kinds of problems. All BMW M cars, AMG cars, Jaguars, Benz's, the C5 Corvette, the Evo, the Sti, and others all come with synthetic from the factory! No break in before switching as long as it's not a esther based.If it's a esther based oil then you need to switch after 5-7,000 miles. it's fine to switch to mobil 1 whenever you want, and to Redline after 5-6,000 miles. Synthetic should especially be used on turbo's. The extra heat generated by turbos cause normal oil to break down faster, the more uniform molecular chains of synthetic are less prone to heat stress and there fore retain viscocity under more severe temperatures.
They also don't "coke" so they don't build up debris and coke on the turbo bearing, and especially on an MSP with an expensive ball bearing center you don't want to ruin it byt running regular oil. It also runs cooler because synthetic has such a significant reduction in surface friction that engines tend to run 10-20 degrees cooler under hard driving.
I agree with everything you said 100% except about the Rotary part. It has been long known that synthetic and rotaries don't mix, but this comes from a failure many, many years ago.
Todays synthetic oils are leaps and bounds over the stuff from back then.
I run Mobil 1 with great results in both of my RX-7's, it will be interesting to see Mazda's stance on this when the RX-8 is released.
 
I have an N/A car that I turbocharged a few years ago (it's back to stock now since I'm selling the kit to put the money toward a 2003.5 MSP). After I turbo'd the car I noticed that the oil "wore out" MUCH faster. Synthetic is supposed to maintain its integrity under high temps/pressure better. That being said....I think it's very strange that two dealers said no to synth. when its benefits are common knowledge, especially to people in the auto industry. Maybe they know something we don't. Just because other turbo cars use it doesn't mean that it's good for this one. It could be something to do with the viscosity of the synth in combination with the various rubbers and plastics used within the motor. I noticed that if I put syth. in my car (with the turbo installed) the positive manifold pressure was causing a good amount of oil to be pushed passed the rings and out the exhaust in a big blue cloud. Using regular oil fixed the problem. Just my 2 cents.
 
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