Oil filter swap, Cartridge type to canister type.

[Dphillips]

So i have wrenched on a few fords recently and have noticed the share the same 2.3 lt as we do.

1 difference is they dont use the pricey cartridge type oil filter, they use a normal style (less expensive)metal canister type.

This is done via a different oilfilter adapter bracket.

Part number for this piece from ford is.... 1L5Z6881A and the cost is $53 and change.

So my thinking here is,
1: easier oil change.
2: cheaper.
3: should only take a few oil changes to balance out the price you paid for the adapter until you satrt saving money on oil changes.

I have compared the 2 parts and they are identical. It will bolt up to the block and house whatever sensor that sits in our current adapter.


So what do you people think? Would this be something worth while.

Current filter price is 9.33
new filter price would be 4.36

So maybe about 10 oil changes before you actually start saving money.
But will be much easier none-the-less.

 

[SuperJETT]

I bought 4 PureOne cartridge filters for $3/each a month or two ago, so really the cost savings means nothing if you shop around a little. I actually don't consider the change to be that much harder or messier than normal, just have to be careful to not crack the cap.

 

[chapel]

I kinda like those cartridges...

 

[flcruising]

I can get a NAPA Gold oil filter for $5.99 locally, or a pack of 12 shipped from fleetfilter.com for $55.73. Besides the mess, there is no economical reason to change the filter type. Canister filters are just more metal in the land fills.

 

[mpvue]

my '09 has the spin-on type

 

[flcruising]

If was a change about half-way through the '09 model year production. It was either complaint or cost driven., I believe the latter, but who knows?
I thought the canister housing looses oil cooling too...?

 

[ljmattox]

I'd do it in a heartbeat just to stop the mess, I'm sure that's personal preference. Some will say they make more/less of a mess with one versus the other depending on the skill of the tech doing the change. Driving the decision on cost probably isn't the main thing, as many have noted...with sale/bargain prices you can make it work out either way.

 

[StealthWyvern]

I can get a NAPA Gold oil filter for $5.99 locally, or a pack of 12 shipped from fleetfilter.com for $55.73. Besides the mess, there is no economical reason to change the filter type. Canister filters are just more metal in the land fills.

Ecomical yes their is if you dont do your own oil changes. My girl saves 5 bucks off an oil change by switching to the canister filters. Also the cartridges tend to crack over time thus leaking your oil all over the place and leaving you with no oil in your motor in a rather short amount of time. I've put 3 replacement canisters in my girls 6 all deveolped cracks and is a common issue.... To say that I over tighten them and crack them isnt the case. She takes he car to the dealership for oil changes. The dealership WILL NOT replace it out of their pocket and make you pay for it.


Twice she about lost her motor because she doesnt check her oil regularly. Thank god I drive it and I check the oil often when im driving it. Also to me heat and plastic doesnt go hand in hand and it should of never been plastic from the get go. I did this conversion on her 6 and never looked back. So if you guys can find a way to get to the canister type I say go for it!


Edit: YES I am fully aware this is the 5 forum. However my opinion on the matter and personal experience is still valid with this filter media setup.

Edit #2: I didn't do this for cost savings to her car but for peice of mind!

 

[rodslinger]

So what do you people think? Would this be something worth while.

Current filter price is 9.33
new filter price would be 4.36

I've done this mod on the 2004 3 we used to have and the last two 5's we've had. Not to save money but just to make oil changes easier. Hated messing with that canister. Dealer never said a thing about it when I took them in for service either.

 

[AO928]

The cartridge is not messy if you do it right. You have to first loosen the allen drian plug, but don't remove it, yet. Then you loosen the cartrige housing until you can turn it by hand. Then remove the drain plug and let drain.

I found the key was to loosen the cartridge housing. If you don't, for some reason a lot of oil stays in there.

 

[red headz]

Can anyone post pictures of the two filter styles?

So far, we have done dealership oil changes, b/c they are free... soon enough, I will need to change them at home.

michael.

 

[Heat]

... So what do you people think? Would this be something worth while.

Current filter price is 9.33
new filter price would be 4.36

...

I don't think it's worth the trouble, and you are spending too much on your cartridge filters.

You can get five, with a free wrench, here for $27.40:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/maintenace7.html

Free shipping on orders $100 or more - pick up a spare key and an air filter, you can get over $100. Otherwise add shipping - to Illinois the cost is $12.63.

Red headz, you can see the two different filter types at the link above.

 

[rodslinger]

The extra benefit to me when we first got our 3 was being able to just get our oil changed. The cartridge is more common now but when the 3 first came out back in late 2003 about the only place I could get my oil changed was the dealer. Nobody had the cartridge. I also travel a lot so if I'm nowhere near a Mazda dealer and need an oil change I would just have to wait.

In the past I've had to go back to the dealer three times because the cartridge housing would leak. Usually a crack from being overtightened or the o-ring wasn't installed correctly. One time they didn't have a replacement housing. Gave me a rental and had to return the next day to get my car back. Something that never happened again when using the spin-on filter.


Before converting our 2006 and 2008 Mazda5 also I would still come across a shop that might not have the cartridge and either have to wait two hours for one to show up from the parts store or find another shop. After switching to the spin-on housing I never had that issue.

It just saved me a lot of headaches. I know the answer from some people will be to just keep some spare filters in the car when you travel. Easier said than done sometimes. Managing inventory of a spare oil filter is pretty low on the priority list. If I'm on a road trip and 1500 miles from home I just want to be able to stop, get service and keep going. Not interested in hoping I remembered to keep a spare filter, hope it isn't crushed and the o-ring didn't go missing....

 

[Turbopun]

Sub'd.

I'm about to do my first oil change on my wife's '06. And to clarify, I mean first for me, not the car, she took it to the dealer for years while it was still under warranty, and they always offered $20 oil change specials.

Anyway, I decided it was time to do it myself, since I'll be doing any other maintenance myself, from here on out, and it's a good way to familiarize myself with the engine bay.

I'm reading up on the procedure, and I already don't like the idea of that plastic canister cover piece thing, with the easy possibility for leaks. Did I read that correctly that Mazda themselves changed to a conventional system? That says something I'm sure.

Was looking for an image of the adapter, and found this thread on another board, which then points to this as a supplier.

Aha, read that thread a bit more closely, and there's this one too. If you search on the part number (including the gasket), you'll see they list it for less.

1L5Z6881A $49.00 $0.00 $25.97
1S7Z6840AA $5.92 $0.00 $4.54

Question to the op, or anyone who's actually done this, can you confirm that this is the correct piece?