oil around the cold side flange on the intercooler

i mean turbo blow-by. when a turbo shaft is floating on a thin layer of oil (ie. journal/floating bearing) then seals inside the turbo maintain pressure on the shaft and the housing not allowing oil to leak by. but when you have a turbo that is spinning at 40,000+ rpm the shaft will tend to move side to side against those seals and wear them. over time, the shaft will have side to side play and oil seepage is expected and quite normal. the reason you don't see smoke at that time is because the cat converter is catching most of it and the hot exhaust is burning off the extra. so now you have a couple problems.

a leaking/blown turbo causing oil to blow by into the ic tubes and through the bov into the turbo inlet again and oil blowing by into the exhaust causing you to clog your cat down the line.

only one thing to prevent this is to cool down the car BEFORE turning it OFF. TURBO TIMERS are very important to these cars because they run so f***ing HOT. if you don't have a timer then after any driving, just let the car idle for 2 minutes. that simple...

this will help bring coolant temp down to normal and in turn bring the oil temp down. then the turbo will have that small amount of cooled oil in the bearing and when you start it the next time, the turbo will not have a dry start and wear the bearings and seals.

ALSO don't start the car and then just take off like a bat out of hell. let the temps rise a little before driving, for the same reasons above.

i hope i helped a little.
 
the pcv system blows in the intake manifold from the front of the motor on the block. that would not cause oil in the ic tubing. it would blow from the block through the pcv system to the intake and then into the motor and out through the exhaust.
 
Absolutely, in regard to warm up and even more importantly, cool down for turbochargers. I need to think more about IC oil residue. as I hope to better understand the Mazda with more experience
 
from what i read on previous posts and threads in here i came to the understanding that a 1 min warm up is only needed to make sure all sensors are running alright (mine stabilize after about 20 secs. (a/f ratios and oil pres.)) and that the oil has reached the top of the motor and flowed through your turbo.
as far as cool down goes im to the understanding that it only take roughly 30 secs. to maybe a min tops because the turbo is not only oil cooled but also....correct me if im wrong....water cooled? errr....
anyways what im trying to say is the consensus was just dont beat the s*** out of it about a min before you shut it down so the bearings can cool and not cause oil coking and dont beat on it until operating temp is normal so your parts are lubed...sounds sexy. no...yes...???
as far as oil in the IC ive heard this all over the place now. im getting a catch can personally. some of the s*** people pour out of these things is naaaaaasty and i think that will cure a lot of problems.....lets go with about....70%. lol.

EDIT: found this about a related topic on another thread...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123691179&page=19

check out speedy3's write-up. fantastic job on why your getting oil in unwanted places.
 
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2007 our turbo is not water cooled and being as small as it is is prone to heat and heat soak. I always wait at least a full minute and never drive it hard before shutting it off. I think I'll probably go the turbo timer route just to be sure I've allowed enough time to bring turbo temp down
 
2007 our turbo is not water cooled and being as small as it is is prone to heat and heat soak. I always wait at least a full minute and never drive it hard before shutting it off. I think I'll probably go the turbo timer route just to be sure I've allowed enough time to bring turbo temp down

Are you sure about that...? I thought our turbos were water/oil cooled!!

I see water lines connected to the core...
DSC02362.jpg
 
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