OEM Backup Cam with Aftermarket Stereo

I tried setting up the buttons, but I've got stuck.
It's not very intuitive. to say the least.
There are different charts on different pages, in a chart there are only a couple of functions, in another there are 14 functions.
There is setup procedure and there is a reset procedure. When do you use one and when the other?
I have tried using Redbaron's sequence, but it did not work out.
They say, if you want to change another button, you have to repeat step #3, which is pushing the button. It's very confusing. Why this company doesn't have a video on how to do it, at least an example for the RP4.
I have managed to switch button's functions around, but I have no idea on what I have done to get to that result.
I have realized, that the three phone buttons don't work at all. LED does not blink, when I push them. What could be the problem?
Installing two amps and replacing the stereo, with all the wiring it was a much easier job to understand, then setting up this SWC.

Setting up the SWC is a pain in the ass. Half the time the SWC module doesn't work. What I've found is that sometimes you need to unplug the interface connector, wait a few minutes, and re-plug it in just to reset it. And when you replug it in, wiggle it around and push it in HARD to make sure all the leads connect within the connector. That said, if you push buttons and the LED doesn't flicker AT ALL, you have to "re-calibrate" your SWC module, which means to tell the module what buttons are available on your steering wheel so it knows what it can program to. You have to hold down the program button for 7 seconds, and once the LED flickers, you basically map your buttons according to page 6:

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/RP4-MZ11/1_Instructions/rp4-mz11_instructions_081612.pdf
(the instruction manual linked above was asthetically different than what I received with my unit, but for the most part the instructions are exactly the same between them)

Here's how I recalibrated:
1. Hold program button down for 7 seconds.
2. Press Vol +
3. Press Vol -
4. Press >>
5. Press <<
6. Press program button (skip as there is no dedicated button for Mode on wheel)
7. Press program button (skip, no button for Mute)
8. Press Voice button
9. Press hang up button
10. Press receive/call button
11. Wait 7 seconds and then once LED blinks, all buttons should be active for programming. You can test by pressing each and the LED should flicker.

Now you can follow RedBaron's sequence for programming instructions if you want to mimic his control scheme. My scheme is slightly different. But basically, make sure you go through the entire sequence and press buttons for every command you want mapped. If you miss one or stop early, buttons can be "forgotten" if not programmed, in which case you'll have to re-calibrate all over again.
 
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I'm reading the manual again and I have noticed something that I may have left out.
3. Blue wire in vehicle harness - In the Mazda CX-5, 2013+ CX-9 & 2013+ Mazda 3 with factory navigation, the blue wire in the 24 pin vehicle
harness needs to be connected to the green/white wire in the 16-pin RP harness. This is necessary for the Bluetooth SWC to function with
the aftermarket radio. In all other applications this wire should be connected to the aftermarket radios power antenna output.
I don't have factory navigation, so I should connect the car's blue wire to the Kenwood's power antenna wire(I believe that is also blue)?

I also don't have factory navigation either, but you'll need to connect those wires together for the BT SWC to function. On my unit, the blue wire from the vehicle connector and the green wire from the interface connector came with bullet connectors on the ends, so that you can simply plug them into each other. So that's what I did. In regards to the aftermarket radio power antenna, I have a Pioneer so my situation may be a little different. As my unit doesn't have a dedicated antenna power wire, I had to connect my 40-HD10 aftermarket antenna adapter's power wire to my harness's ACC power wires. RedBaron mentioned in another thread that his Kenwood had a dedicated power wire for the antenna, which you would connect to the antenna adapter's power wire:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123840616-Pioneer-AVH-4000-NEX-Install/page5
 
Thank you for all that. I will give it a try later, when I get home.
It looks like, I will have to start by connecting that wire.
 
OK, I have made some progress.
After I have connected those wires, the three phone/voice buttons show life when they are pressed.
I have managed to reset all the buttons as you described above and after that I have programmed the buttons.
One thing that I have just noticed, that when you have to hold the programming button for a bit longer, you have to look at the LED and release it only when it begins blinking and only then can you move on to the next step.
I have went through the 14 steps for Kenwood and I made my own button selection and they work, but not the phone buttons. The LED is blinking when they are pushed, but nothing happens on the screen.
Any input would be appreciated.
As a bonus for helping me, here is a splash screen image for Kenwood.
Redbaron, I don't really understand in that excel sheet, the meaning of the dimmed words and the arrows next to a couple of words.
What exactly should happen when do you push the off hook button?
 

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I have went through the 14 steps for Kenwood and I made my own button selection and they work, but not the phone buttons. The LED is blinking when they are pushed, but nothing happens on the screen.

In my experience, the phone buttons don't do anything unless you have a call incoming (press "answer" to pick up) or want to end a current call (press "hang up" to end). That's how it is on my Pioneer setup. My voice button on the steering wheel is a mute button, and on long press activates voice commands on my phone.

How to disable the original stereo's bluetooth, just un-pair the phone?

Quoted from jlcpremier's first post on the Pioneer AVH-4000NEX install thread which is linked in a previous post:

Removing factory radio: Before you remove the radio. Make sure you have all the vehicle settings the way you want (Door Locks, Wipers, Lights, etc) You WILL NOT be able to change these after you pull out the radio, unless you put the factory radio back in, or go to a dealer. Also be sure to unpair any bluetooth devices you have with your radio. The bluetooth module will still be active and will attempt to pair with your device if you don't remove it from the devices list on the radio
 
Wow, I just realized this thread has taken a sharp turn from the original post! (Maybe a Mod could cut out these recent posts into their own thread?)

Anyway, to add a couple of things to Sterling's excellent responses...

Redbaron, I don't really understand in that excel sheet, the meaning of the dimmed words and the arrows next to a couple of words.

What exactly should happen when do you push the off hook button?
Answering these in turn...

If you mean the 'arrows' in column C (for example field C15) I was just indicating to myself that those functions would have to be allocated to "Long Press" buttons - since we don't have icon buttons to match.

If you have a call come in (ringing), then pressing off-hook 'answers' the phone (like taking you handset off the hook when your deskphone rings). If a call comes in and you press on-hook, it rejects the call. Or if you have answered a call and finished talking, pressing on-hook terminates the call. They have NO function unless you are in-process of a phone call.

How to disable the original stereo's bluetooth, just un-pair the phone?

Yes, you should've unpaired your phone before installing the new radio. I hadn't thought about doing that before I buttoned all mine back up again :( So I just disconnected all the connectors (incl. power) from the Bluetooth module. It's fairly easy to access, being located directly above the glove compartment door. You have to disconnect the door stops and let it swing down to the floor, then just reach up and pull the connectors from the BT module. Some photos, here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...tep-Required&p=6248285&viewfull=1#post6248285
 
Thank you.
Sorry about going way off topic here.
I have un-paired my phone, before I have removed it. I was just thinking, that maybe I forgot to disable something else, other then un-pairing.
I'm reading again, that blue wire paragraph and I'm noticing something else there.
The blue wire has to be connected with the green/white wire only, if I have navigation? Otherwise I have to connect the blue wire, to the power antenna's blue wires of the stereo and leave out the green/white wire?
 
Thank you.
Sorry about going way off topic here.
I have un-paired my phone, before I have removed it. I was just thinking, that maybe I forgot to disable something else, other then un-pairing.
I'm reading again, that blue wire paragraph and I'm noticing something else there.
The blue wire has to be connected with the green/white wire only, if I have navigation? Otherwise I have to connect the blue wire, to the power antenna's blue wires of the stereo and leave out the green/white wire?

If you look at my WIRING spreadsheet again, you'll see the blue text rows (middle of rows 6 and 15) indicating these Blue & Green/White wires should be connected together. Nothing to do with a CX-5 having Mazda Navi or not (I do not have Navi).
 
I have tried the phone and it's working. Great! I can put back the stereo now.
I have been driving, without the "beauty" part installed, for a couple of days.
Now I will have to concentrate on fine tuning the system.
There is a way, to switch between programmed radio stations? It seems like, I can only select frequencies step by step.
 
On my appradio3 by pioneer track+/track- skips between programmed radio stations

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I have tried the phone and it's working. Great! I can put back the stereo now.
I have been driving, without the "beauty" part installed, for a couple of days.
Now I will have to concentrate on fine tuning the system.
There is a way, to switch between programmed radio stations? It seems like, I can only select frequencies step by step.

I discovered when programming my SWC that, for the radio, Track +/- does the incremental frequencies and Preset +/- does the programmed stations for my Pioneer. Kinda self-explanatory but when I programmed mine the first time I did it backwards than what I originally wanted. That said, looking at the SWC Programming Order for a Kenwood, possibly Disc/FM+ and Disc/AM- are the commands needed to switch between presets?
 
The Disc/FM+ and Disc/AM- changes from FM1 to FM2 and FM3. I'm not sure what the AM does, did not try it out yet.
 
I do have one question. I have done this and the camera works great with the step down converter... Will keeping power to the camera burn it out? I know alot of Aftermarket cameras cant handle being on for long periods of time.. Is that different with the factory mazda Cx 5 Camera?
 
Moving this from the end of a thread discussing the opposite scenario :)

OK an update to this... If you are replacing your Mazda head unit (due to the crap handling of the USB, or any other reason), you CAN keep your factory rear-view camera and use it with your new aftermarket head unit. Having just done this with my car today, I can tell you what works for a 2014 CX-5 Touring (at least).

Basically, you can follow this German's guys diagram to do it, here: http://www.mazda-forum.info/mazda-c...ine-incl-navi-nachruestbar-31.html#post478862. Except he shows a switching regulator as a 6V power supply, and as I said above, I would stay away from those and use a linear regulator instead.

Counter to all intuition and accepted color code usage (Huh Mazda??), the wiring to the factory connector is as follows:
  • the Red wire in the connector (6C) is the negative video signal
  • the Black wire (6D) is the positive video signal.
  • the White wire is the 6V supply to the camera
  • and the black shrink-sleeved braid wire is the ground (0V supply)

I can tell you that if you swap the video wires, such that red is positive (as I did originally), you'll get a very corrupted video signal... virtually total noise.

Anyway, here's a (hopefully) clear picture of what you have to wire to retain your factory camera for use with an aftermarket head unit, This is looking from the perspective of inserting pins into the factory harness plug behind the radio. By the way, this connector has pins on 0.1" spacing, meaning you can use common PC double-row header strips as a plug (like these: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/images/VET-HEAD-DR-8-1.jpg). Just cut off a length of 3 (by 2) pins, and remove the two center ones. The four outer ones will plug in perfectly!

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I registered just to say this... THANK YOU. I have a backup camera and full SWC in my 2015 Mazda6 Touring with my Alpine iLX-007 CarPlay head unit. The RP4-MZ11 is awesome! I have some lines going through the video feed but I'm thinking it might just be power signal bleeding over into the video. It's not "virtually total noise" like you've mentioned, so I don't think I have the polarity backwards. I was too tired to un-tape the wiring harness and swap to verify.

My wife has a 2013 CX-5 GT. I might install an iLX-007 in her car too now that I know what's up!

Justin
 
Does anybody feel that the OEM can is very bright with aftermarket stereo?
Did you feel worse image that with OEM stereo?
Perhaps you can share a photo of your stereo showing the reverse camera.

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Does anybody feel that the OEM can is very bright with aftermarket stereo?
Did you feel worse image that with OEM stereo?
Perhaps you can share a photo of your stereo showing the reverse camera.

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My head unit - Kenwood - has a settings page for camera brightness (day and night mode). Have you checked for that on yours?
 
I can adjust the brightness for the display...but not specifically for the camera.... Afaik


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