Normal CX-5 engine noise? Just noticed yesterday

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2019 Cx-5 sport
Hey all, 2019 CX-5 sport with 2,300 miles on it, bought brand new 2 years ago.

Just noticed this ticking noise while driving through parking lot, and thought,
is that my CX-5 making that noise? Got home, checked yesterday and today and
the noise is still there. I don't remember this noise when I bought the vehicle, a loud ticking and rattling sound.

Will be taking it to local dealer Monday, but I've taken it for other noises over the past couple of years and both lead mechanics that I've talked to say 'they all do that' and maybe I just never noticed this noise before..?

Thanks for any info.
Joe
 

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Ok, update, went back to dealer, talked to sales lady that sold me the cx5...Told her about the ticking noise and was wondering if she'd let me listen to a new cx5 with hood up. She said no problem. She started up a 2021 sport and I had mine a few feet away...My cx5 was warmed up, the 2021 sport was a cold start.

We both thought my cx5 was a little louder, but the new 2021 ticking was coming from the same area as mine. So, guess, it's just the noisy fuel injectors like several mentioned above.

Thanks for all the help and information.
So why this’s a "well-discussed" issue? Because each time a new comer who want to DIY and get confused by these capacity specs from Mazda. Everybody else when they put an oil capacity for oil change, you use the said amount, and the oil level is right at the Full mark of the dipstick. But for Mazda, there’re too many ifs and buts, just can’t give you an accurate amount on these fluid capacities. Just ask is there any DIYers who is willing put in the said amount 4.8 quarts in his / her 2.5L for oil change?

The 66% variant on rear differential capacity is the best “approximate” amount Mazda can provide? That’s a joke!

Not to mention if one DIYer wants to change the gear lube in front transfer case and rear differential on the CX-5, thinking of getting one bottle of very expensive SG1 is enough based on the specs, then just found out he needed a second bottle and got stuck.

I'm talking about Mazda and the listed engine oil capacity being called "wrong". It isn't wrong, it's an approximation based on Mazda's definition of what a normal oil level is (anywhere between the MIN and MAX mark).

Variation exists in process and preference. If you follow what the manual recommends for engine oil, then the stated amount in the manual is sufficient. If you prefer the oil level to be right at the MAX mark, then you'll need a little more (thus the reasoning for an approximation over a hard value).

I have no comment on the transfer case or diff fluid capacities, those may very well be wrong, I don't know. But with engine oil, the above holds true (assuming there are no other problems to consider, like oil dilution or oil consumption).
 
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I just went out and checked and it's more like 1/4" over the full line. I work at a dealer and was standing right there when the tech raised the 6 up on the lift, drained the oil (I even took a sample to get tested), and refilled from the Idemitsu 5qt jug I supplied. I wonder if maybe gas is getting into the oil and raising the level? It does smell a bit like gas
Honestly you’re the first here to say 5 quarts on oil change put the oil level above the Max mark on the 2.5L.
 
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I'm talking about Mazda and the listed engine oil capacity being called "wrong". It isn't wrong, it's an approximation based on Mazda's definition of what a normal oil level is (anywhere between the MIN and MAX mark).
Every car manufacture says the oil level is fine between Add and Full marks like Mazda. But I haven’t seen anyone put out the oil capacity for oil change but it won’t be at the Full mark.


Variation exists in process and preference. If you follow what the manual recommends for engine oil, then the stated amount in the manual is sufficient.
So tell me which DIYer or even the Mazda dealer puts in specified 4.8 quarts for oil change for the 2.5L?


If you prefer the oil level to be right at the MAX mark, then you'll need a little more (thus the reasoning for an approximation over a hard value).
This’s at least 10% more than the spec and you believe it’s a good approximate quantity? How about 66% off on rear differential gear lube and you believe it’s still in Mazda’s good “approximate” range?


I have no comment on the transfer case or diff fluid capacities, those may very well be wrong, I don't know. But with engine oil, the above holds true (assuming there are no other problems to consider, like oil dilution or oil consumption).
So you can pick and choose whatever you prefer ⋯ ;)

BTW, the capacity of front transfer case stated on the specs is right on the money, 0.45 quart. The consistency about approximate quantity by Mazda is amazing!
 
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Honestly you’re the first here to say 5 quarts on oil change put the oil level above the Max mark on the 2.5L.
When the tech was pouring it in he stopped when it got to the full line and with a little left in the jug. I told him to go ahead and use all of it, knowing that it would be a little over
 
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2 comments.

Mazda engines sound terrible compared to Honda/Acura and what I'm used to - especially when cold. I've just accepted that. When I bought my 2018 CX-5, the salesman let me listen to another new one before I drove mine off the lot because I questioned whether it had a problem when I listened to mine with the hood open. The other one sounded the same.

The oil "capacity" listed in the manual may be intended to be nominal, or target oil level - midway between min and max. Just like they give ranges for torque specs instead of supplying a nominal with +/- tolerance. Presumably the spec is the middle of the range.

Too much oil is not good either.
 
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When the tech was pouring it in he stopped when it got to the full line and with a little left in the jug. I told him to go ahead and use all of it, knowing that it would be a little over
Your oil change experience sounded like you have an 2.0L with 4.4 quarts of oil capacity in your 2017 Mazda6 Sport. But I checked the 2017 Mazda6 Sport has a 2.5L, and the part number on oil pan, although it has several revisions, is also the same on the latest part number as the 2.5L on CX-5. madar here has mentioned his oil pan on his 2016.5 CX-5 got replaced with a revised one due to the oil leak, and somehow the oil capacity has changed. Not sure if your 2.5L has a different oil pan with smaller size, or something else. It’s weird for sure.
 
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2 comments.

Mazda engines sound terrible compared to Honda/Acura and what I'm used to - especially when cold. I've just accepted that. When I bought my 2018 CX-5, the salesman let me listen to another new one before I drove mine off the lot because I questioned whether it had a problem when I listened to mine with the hood open. The other one sounded the same.
There’re a couples of SAs and TSBs which address the valve tapping noise problem on the 2.5L with cylinder deactivation. The switchable HLAs exclusively for CD could need replacement with revised ones if the valve noise continues after the engine has warmed up.


The oil "capacity" listed in the manual may be intended to be nominal, or target oil level - midway between min and max. Just like they give ranges for torque specs instead of supplying a nominal with +/- tolerance. Presumably the spec is the middle of the range.

Too much oil is not good either.
Inconsistency and inaccuracy on fluid capacities, and given a range on torque specs are things I learned from my first Mazda. It gets frustrated for DIYers because these are different from other car manufactures and make no sense to me. This’s why we’re getting the same question on fluid capacities from new comers again and again.

If “engine oil capacity” listed in the manual by Mazda is intended to be “nominal”, or targeting oil level to midway between Min and Max, then why the manual also asks the owner to add the oil to the Full / Max mark when the oil level is getting low?

When a DIYer followed Mazda Workshop Manual to refill the gear oil to the brim of the fill hole on the front transfer case, it used about 0.45 quarts like the manual says, perfect. Then changing the real differential but only to find out the leftover 0.55 quart in the SG1 bottle is way short as it actually needs 0.75 quart, not 0.45 / 0.37 quart specified in the manual. Whoops ⋯ Time to find a ride getting another bottle of expensive SG1 from a nearest Mazda dealer with markup price over MSRP on every Mazda part!

And I also hate to figure out the mid valve of the torque range given by Mazda with my rusty brain. :unsure:
 
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Every car manufacture says the oil level is fine between Add and Full marks like Mazda. But I haven’t seen anyone put out the oil capacity for oil change but it won’t be at the Full mark.



So tell me which DIYer or even the Mazda dealer puts in specified 4.8 quarts for oil change for the 2.5L?



This’s at least 10% more than the spec and you believe it’s a good approximate quantity? How about 66% off on rear differential gear lube and you believe it’s still in Mazda’s good “approximate” range?



So you can pick and choose whatever you prefer ⋯ ;)

BTW, the capacity of front transfer case stated on the specs is right on the money, 0.45 quart. The consistency about approximate quantity by Mazda is amazing!

Refer to the manual. If you have any concerns, contact Mazda Corporate. You may get better information from them. I can't make what I said in my previous posts any clearer, but they were all based on what is detailed in the Owner's Manual, regarding engine oil level. If the amount of oil stated in the manual is enough to put you in the specified range on the dipstick, then the amount of oil is not wrong. That's all I'm saying.

Rear diff is completely different. There is no MIN/MAX level when it comes to the rear diff, thus it needs a specific amount. Either the amount stated in the manual is incorrect based on other's experiences, or Mazda only requires 0.45 quarts in the rear diff. If the workshop manual says to fill to the bottom of the fill hole, then I would say that the amount specified in the manual is wrong.
 
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Anyway, this conversation is drifting off-topic, I apologize for my part in that.

Any further discussion on fluid levels/capacities, torque ranges, etc. should be directed towards the many other threads that already exist on the forum.

Back to the topic at hand, please.
 
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There’re a couples of SAs and TSBs which address the valve tapping noise problem on the 2.5L with cylinder deactivation. The switchable HLAs exclusively for CD could need replacement with revised ones if the valve noise continues after the engine has warmed up.



Inconsistency and inaccuracy on fluid capacities, and given a range on torque specs are things I learned from my first Mazda. It gets frustrated for DIYers because these are different from other car manufactures and make no sense to me. This’s why we’re getting the same question on fluid capacities from new comers again and again.

If “engine oil capacity” listed in the manual by Mazda is intended to be “nominal”, or targeting oil level to midway between Min and Max, then why the manual also asks the owner to add the oil to the Full / Max mark when the oil level is getting low?

When a DIYer followed Mazda Workshop Manual to refill the gear oil to the brim of the fill hole on the front transfer case, it used about 0.45 quarts like the manual says, perfect. Then changing the real differential but only to find out the leftover 0.55 quart in the SG1 bottle is way short as it actually needs 0.75 quart, not 0.45 / 0.37 quart specified in the manual. Whoops ⋯ Time to find a ride getting another bottle of expensive SG1 from a nearest Mazda dealer with markup price over MSRP on every Mazda part!

And I also hate to figure out the mid valve of the torque range given by Mazda with my rusty brain. :unsure:
Yes, those things are quirks of Mazda.

I'm pretty certain the factory fill is perfectly sufficient, and if they could count on customers to be as precise and accurate as the factory, those levels would surely suffice. They've done capability studies on the factory processes and understand the standard deviation of the level targeted vs achieved and surely have audits to confirm they are operating within their control limits.

It also makes sense, from direction to customers perspective, if discovering the oil level to be low, to bring it up to max, since there's good chance it is using oil and that buys some cushion. (Presuming the using oil is an expected/acceptable condition, especially as the vehicle ages, and that oil dilution isn't a primary concern).

But the car isn't going to perform any better or last any longer if its run with the oil level at max vs. 1/4 of the approved range above min.
 
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Put in 5 quarts + 425cc's to be just about to the max line. cc is the same volume as ml, so 425ml. When changing oil it only makes sense to fill it and not partially fill it with just 5 quarts.
You can pick up a measuring cup at Walmart that has increments of cubic centimeters or milliliters
Measuring cup
Or get a oil/gas ratio cup, which is what I use. The measuring numbers are hard to see though.
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I drive the car to heat up the oil, I drain it until it drips about one drip every 3 seconds. Maybe 10 minutes of draining. And put the measuring cup into two clean plastic bags to keep dust out of it, so it doesn't have to be cleaned between uses. I also love the Mazda custom funnel part number OFFM2012 that twists into the filler cap groves and keep in a rubbermaid 1.1 gallon container to keep it dust free.
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