No start after engine swap

Schwamm

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2003 Mazdaspeed Protege, 2008 Mazda 3 Hatchback, 1984 RX7 GSL-SE
I am struggling to get this car started after swapping engines. This is the first time I have ever swapped an engine, so I am not sure how to troubleshoot the problem and I could have overlooked something simple.

Background:
A few months back I bought an MSP with a blown engine. I swapped in a used MSP engine but it didn't work because the head was warped. I got a used, non-warped head and installed it but had poor compression because I missed the part in the service manual about the two sets of 90 turns on the head bolts. I took the head off again, put on a new head gasket, and tightened the head bolts correctly this time. I put everything back together and it almost started the first time, and since then it just cranks but doesn't ever catch.

Things I tried:
Different spark plugs
Different Battery (from my other MSPdefinitely working)

Here's a video of the first time I tried to start it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQmH71d2p0w

I definitely have fuel because the first set of plugs got soaked. I did a compression test and got about 60psi in each cylinder, but I am hoping the car just isn't cranking enough to get a good reading. I don't know how I could have that bad of compression with a new head gasket and a cleaned up head, and it's not just one or two cylinders that are low. The tach doesn't move at all when starting, but it sounds like it is cranking correctly. I've changed a few timing belts before, and I feel pretty confident it is in time.

Why would it almost start the first time but not subsequent times? What was that pop sound the second time I tried to start it? Any help is appreciated!
 
Put about a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and do the compression test again.

Do you have a scan tool that you can view data on to actually watch what it reports on engine RPM?
 
I changed the video to be public now.

Is it possible for the timing to "jump"? I verified the timing by the service manual (The little yellow mark on the crank gear lines up with the T on the lower timing cover when the marks on cam gears are facing each other). The way it almost started the first time and then didn't the rest of the night makes me think the timing is now off. That seems like the only thing that would cause low compression on all cylinders, since I'm guessing having bad piston rings on all cylinders is unlikely to happen?

Will bad valve clearance cause this? The head I got came with cams so I left everything in place, but I did not verify the clearances yet.
 
It can be easy to set the timing a tooth or two off, although with just one tooth off on either cam it would likely still start, just run horribly. If all your sensors are connected and you are getting fuel and spark it is most likely the timing.
 
It just occurred to me that in my video it cranks much faster the third time, right after I hear the pop. I'm guessing it cranks faster because it has less resistance (lost compression). Something happened to timing... I will investigate today.

I am wondering if the timing belt might have stretched when I put it on the engine with the head not tightened down (the first time I swapped the head). It was significantly harder to install that time and and even broke the tensioner spring.
 
Did you replace the spring? It would be very difficult to stretch a new belt, I wouldn't suspect that.
 
I put a spring from a different engine on it. It's not a new spring, but it seems fine. I could not seem to tighten the tensioner down to the point where it wouldn't swivel back at all. I am not sure if it is normal for it to move a little or not. When I was done putting the belt on, it only deflected a little when I pulled on it between the cam gears so it was fairly tight.
 
Cam gears... I just remembered you're using a head Alex shipped you. If it wasn't an MSP head, likely it wasn't, you'll need the MSP cam gears, Austin. I bet that's your problem.
 
But that doesn't explain the low compression.... Unless you washed the cylinder walls down enough with fuel. That's why I said you should add oil/transmission fluid to the cylinders to see what the compression jumps up to.
 
It's a P5 head but I used cam gears from an MSP. I will check the timing as soon as I get a chance today, and later try adding oil to the cylinders. I did not wash them down with fuel, but I have no idea how long it's been since this block ran, and the first time I tried to get it going the warped head caused coolant and oil to get into the cylinders. I wiped it up and blew it out with compressed air before putting the head on this last time.
 
I just checked the timing as best I can and it may be slightly off.

I got the marks on the cam gears lined up correctly and it looks like the yellow crank mark is off of the T on the timing cover by about half a tick to the right, but it depends on the angle you look at it. I guess this means I could be one tooth off. Between that and the old block that hasn't run in forever I could have too low compression to start at all. I'm still not sure why it almost started the first time though.
 
you wont have compression if your timings off. if you crank it and it turns as easiliy as if you didn't have spark plugs, definitely redo your timing belt. I accidently aligned the dots instead of the letter slol.. timing was only off by like 25 but it was enough to prevent compression.
in my case i whipped out the compression tester and had ZERO ha.
 
MSP cam gears are no different than any other 01-03 FSDE. However you do have to be careful when you install them, they are the same for intake and exhaust so you have to align the peg in the proper slot. There are two slots and it is very easy to install them incorrectly.
 
I double-checked the diagram in the manual to make sure I put the gears on the right way. I do have some compression and it's hard to turn the engine over, I just don't have enough compression. I think this all points to the timing being off one tooth or so. I honestly don't know what else could cause these symptoms besides the timing.

I'm going to re-time it tonight and see what happens, thanks for all the replies
 
2001 Mazda 626 cam gear part number- FSD712425
2003 Mazdaspeed Protg cam gear part number- FSN512425
2002 Mazda 626 cam gear part number- FSD712425
2002 Mazda Protege5 cam gear part number- FSN512425

Curious why they're two different part numbers for the Protg and the 626....
 
I've got N/A protege cam gears in my car right now. Pretty sure, lol

Part numbers change constantly, the last digits are all the same.
 
2000 Mazda 626 cam gear part number- FSD712425

2001 Mazda Protg cam gear part number- FSN512425
 

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