newly hiboosted

[defchino]

Just got back in from her maiden voyage...

Thanks to anyone that helped out with install questions and I'm sure you guys will be hearing many more newbie FI questions from me. In fact I have a few for you now

1) I've got a bit of a lumpy idle, it'll drop down to almost 500 rpm and then jump back up to almost a grand and continue to do this indefinately. Probably a vac leak, no? Any common spots to check? I'm running an open exhaust from the downpipe back in case this matters.

2) The old hiboost instructions that i was using at first mentioned bypassing the factory MAP sensor, but the new ones had no mention of this, or at least i couldn't find it - whats the deal here?

 

[changedman]

first off, the car came with a MAF, a MAP sensor is different. yes, you can take the MAF out when running a MAP/Haltech.

 

[niv]

2 - map - i called juan about that he said to just leave it the way it was. (I was gonna bypass it but had some questions and that was his advice)

 

[defchino]

first off, the car came with a MAF, a MAP sensor is different. yes, you can take the MAF out when running a MAP/Haltech.

Yeah I know stock setup uses a MAF, but according to the hiboost instructions we also have a MAP behind the passenger side strut tower. I was confused as well as this was the first i've heard of us having a MAP.

For now I'm keeping the stock MAF around so i don't throw a CEL

 

[niv]

so yah... leave teh stock map the instructions say to bypass alone. i can't remember if i t'd the new map off the same line or not...

 

[defchino]

so yah... leave teh stock map the instructions say to bypass alone. i can't remember if i t'd the new map off the same line or not...

sweet... yeah I used the line coming right of the intake manifold for the haltech MAP and my boost gauge, but the brake booster line for my BOV.

What about your idle? Is it steady or lumpy like mine? I'm guessing its not normal.

 

[niv]

hmmm it's not quite as lumpy as you describe.. it idles around 500-700 usually. i am having some points where the car, after starting, the idle drops too low and stalls out. I'm trying to figure that one out.. not often.. but occasionaly. Once driving the idle is as i mentioned

 

[HiBoost TS]

You may want to unscrew at least 2 or 3 turns the by-pass screw in the throttle body. It is the one with the red circle. The one with the phillips screw. Do it counterclockwise until you get a steady idle. Juan

 

[defchino]

You may want to unscrew at least 2 or 3 turns the by-pass screw in the throttle body. It is the one with the red circle. The one with the phillips screw. Do it counterclockwise until you get a steady idle. Juan

Thanks Juan, I'll try that today. Just out of curiosity, what am I actually doing here though?

 

[CWiLL]

Thanks Juan, I'll try that today. Just out of curiosity, what am I actually doing here though?

it wil raise/lower the idle of the car

 

[Pretzellogic]

it wil raise/lower the idle of the car

actually, that's the other screw in the picture. The allen head one.

The screw is the throttle bypass. I'll leave it to the experts to explain it, though.

Welcome to the hiboost club.

Juan, are you getting my PMs? I haven't heard back from you yet.

 

[LinuxRacr]

The point is do what Juan says on that one. This is what I had to do as well.

 

[RyanJayG]

the reason is that the IAC valve isn't working with the Haltech, and you need at least SOME air in there.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Right, the Haltech is NOT controlling the IAC valve, so you may have to open the screw a little to get your idle right. I idle at about 870-1004 RPM.

 

[HiBoost TS]

the reason is that the IAC valve isn't working with the Haltech, and you need at least SOME air in there.

The reason is that for some reason when you cut the injector wires, the stock ECU works in a different way and does not control the idle as well as when the injectors are working with the stock ECU. Just by allowing some more air in, the idle control motor works better. This will not change the stock idle speed thought. It should be around 650 to 700 RPMs.

 

[HiBoost TS]

No, PLease do not touch the allen head screw. That will chnge the voltage in the TPS and will screw all the stock settings. Both screws will do the same, they will allow more air, but the idle by pass (the phillips one) is the one to play with not the allen.


I have been getting your PMs, and I think that your intake should be there by next week.

Juan

actually, that's the other screw in the picture. The allen head one.

The screw is the throttle bypass. I'll leave it to the experts to explain it, though.

Welcome to the hiboost club.

Juan, are you getting my PMs? I haven't heard back from you yet.

 

[miss_steele_msp]

my install went great no problems except for an extra black piece for the radiator didnt know where to put it or how to put it on so we just all agreed that it was an extra piece.

 

[Pretzellogic]

No, PLease do not touch the allen head screw. That will chnge the voltage in the TPS and will screw all the stock settings. Both screws will do the same, they will allow more air, but the idle by pass (the phillips one) is the one to play with not the allen.


I have been getting your PMs, and I think that your intake should be there by next week.

Juan

I was telling him not to mess with said screw.

Thanks for the update on the intake.

 

[niv]

great info! thanx juan. i may have to do that as well.

 

[defchino]

Thanks for all the info guys... didn't get a chance to adjust the idle tonight as it was strangely steady. (thumb) Will try it tmw.