Newbie humbly requests your advice

AceinPDX

Member
Hi, Ive been reading through posts here for just about ever and think Im ready to make the big audio upgrade for my wifes 03 P5. What do the experts around here think for SQ at a reasonable price?

HU: MazdaFonic (stock)
Fronts: Infinity Kappa 60.5 component
Rears: No change for now
Sub: eD 11kv.2 (I like the small box ability)
Front Amp: Alpine MRP-T220 50w x 2
Sub Amp: Alpine MRP-350 200 x 1

Im really not sure about the amps especially since its the one area you cant find a consensus on online. Id kinda like to use just one and stick it in the back, but it would be pretty big If I bought two like I have here, I guess I could put one under the seat for the fronts, and one in the trunk..??

Questions:
- Where does everyone put their amps (DISCREETLY)?
- If I were to buy Alpine Amps, should I use a LOC or speaker inputs?
- Can I use the speaker input from the spare tire sub?
- If I get the eD sub, with that Alpine Amp, should I get dual 4ohm or dual 2ohm driver?
- Where can I find nice, matching carpet for the SW box?

I know Ive asked a lot, but any suggestions/recommendations would be extremely appreciated. (hippy)
 
I put my amp for the front door comps under the front passenger seat. It's a perfect place! I use a LOC and the stock HU and it's great. I actually prefer it over an aftermarket HU since I don't have to worry about it getting broken into.
 
Questions:
- Where does everyone put their amps (DISCREETLY)?
- If I were to buy Alpine Amps, should I use a LOC or speaker inputs?
- Can I use the speaker input from the spare tire sub?
- If I get the eD sub, with that Alpine Amp, should I get dual 4ohm or dual 2ohm driver?
- Where can I find nice, matching carpet for the SW box?

I know Ive asked a lot, but any suggestions/recommendations would be extremely appreciated. (hippy)[/QUOTE] discreetly....build yourself a fake floor in the hatch, deep enough to conceal the amps
 
I made an amp rack for my amps. It is not too hard to do either. I got carpet from crutchfield, but you can get some from a local stereo shop or fabric store. You can mount behind the seat, on the sub box, and/or on the floor of the trunk area. If you plan on using the stock head unit, I hear that there are Navone LOCs which are good. For the sub, if you use a dual 4 ohm, you need an amp that is stable to 2 ohms (which most are). If you do the dual 2 ohm, then you need a 1ohm stable amp (which not all are). With the dual 2 ohm and 4ohm, you can wire it differently so that the amp sees a different impedence. The lower the impedence, the more power the amp puts out, however, some only go so low, so if you have it wired in such a way that the subs impedence is lower than the amp can handle, you can blow your amp. Click on my home page if you want to see my set up. For ideas, go to www.sounddomain.com and you can query Mazda Proteges for more ideas.
 
Thanks for the quick replies everyone!
Tourque- I like the fake door idea... I was thinking about using some of the wasted space under the trunk floor beside the spare.

...but where would I put the weed?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AceinPDX said:
Hi, Ive been reading through posts here for just about ever and think Im ready to make the big audio upgrade for my wifes 03 P5. What do the experts around here think for SQ at a reasonable price?

HU: MazdaFonic (stock)
Fronts: Infinity Kappa 60.5 component
Rears: No change for now
Sub: eD 11kv.2 (I like the small box ability)
Front Amp: Alpine MRP-T220 50w x 2
Sub Amp: Alpine MRP-350 200 x 1

Im really not sure about the amps especially since its the one area you cant find a consensus on online. Id kinda like to use just one and stick it in the back, but it would be pretty big If I bought two like I have here, I guess I could put one under the seat for the fronts, and one in the trunk..??

Questions:
- Where does everyone put their amps (DISCREETLY)?
- If I were to buy Alpine Amps, should I use a LOC or speaker inputs?
- Can I use the speaker input from the spare tire sub?
- If I get the eD sub, with that Alpine Amp, should I get dual 4ohm or dual 2ohm driver?
- Where can I find nice, matching carpet for the SW box?

I know Ive asked a lot, but any suggestions/recommendations would be extremely appreciated. (hippy)
There is a cavity behind the glove box that can be easily utalized

Both are great amps. The MRP-M350 is actualy 350 rms x1 @ 2 ohms.

- Under the seats( you have two seats after all.
- Try the speaker inputs first. The loc can alwasy be added if you need more adjustablilty.
- Yes
- Dual 4 ohm, You want a 2 ohm load to the amp. Don't buy eD subs. For a really small box sub, look into Image Dynamics or JL.
- www.selectproducts.com or www.partsexpress.com
 
If you buy an eD sub, I will personally visit you and kick you in the balls....

Well perhaps not, but PLEASE overlook the perception of a deal, and disregaurd ANYTHING you read on ICIX seeing as that entire site is controlle dby the company itself. I had a 18page long thread that developed within a day get locked then deleted because Ben claimed I was juvinile (or HE looked it in the thread) matter of fact you said you like the small box ability. I have NO clue about their current production subs, but all of their previous ones were very mis-claimed. It's honestly as if they pick numbers that would seem good from a marketing standpoint and call them good. I found this out when placing my 12a in a 2foot box as per outside recommendation, WOW all of the sudden I had some extension.

Eitherway, I'd be lying to say I didn't have very huge personal problems with the company, but if you wish Ijust search ofr a bit of it, I brought it up inhere a bit. which shoudl link around to other places as well if you want to witness the whole affair.

As far as amps go, you'd be amazed at what you can fit under your seat. I'm pushing 4x110 and 1x1200 all underseat at the moment. In fact it'd be hard to find an amp that wouldn't fit.

Speaker input, all the factory one does is take off of one of your rear speakers so if you're wanting to do a non loc setup then, yes. otherwise, do it right and get loc's
 
If you buy an eD sub, I will personally visit you and kick you in the balls....

Okay Okay!! (score another for your personal beef with eD) :p

How about a JL 10W3v2 for SQ? Seen some on ebay for $165 w/shipping -- and is it a bad idea to buy audio from ebay?

One more thing, this may sound dumb, but should you always run 2ohm if your amp can "handle" it? (specifically for front speakers)

Thanks again
 
Okay, sorry about that, It's not being ver yobjective, but I'd just really hate for anyone else to get that kind of treatment from them. But here, if you're at all curious and haven't before seenit, here's a part of it all... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75971&highlight=edi

ON to other things... Ideally, you'd want to run 4ohm upfront because it will be a cleaner signal. Eventhough your amp is "handling" that extra load, it comes at a price of a bit of distortion. In reality, the actual audible difference doesn't mattermuch, especially when complicated by the inperfect listening environment of a car, but in general making any component of a system not work as hard as it possibly can is a good way to go for having good, lasting sound quality.

As far as speaker choice... Have you listened to the kappa components? do what we always say and just take some time, try to push aside all of your predispositions, take some music around to a couple shops and demo as much as you can, and judge by that. Believe me, I sell ppl infinity allday long, and LOVE to sell them kappa's 'cause they've got all kinds of cymbal crash for the metalheads, and I know they can beat the s*** out of them til their ears bleed and in the rare instance that they do come back, infinity lets us just grab another pair out of stock to replace them no questions asked. it's nice all around, but the cmmd tweeters have always been a bit harsh for my tastes, even compared to notoriously harsh quarts, etc... Actually I take back liking to sell them to ppl because I know that the demo's gonna windup giving me a headache. Heck, give the refrences a spin, I really like them. especially for the buck. Also, if you DO wind up with the kappa's, I'd suggest pushing more power to them than 50w, closer to 100 and you start getting better sound, of course if you can afford that kind of power, you can afford a nicer speaker, and in reality a front stage shouldn't need 100w...

AS for subs, the same thing I went through with eD is what you're subject to with warranty over the net from anywhere. I've seen it time and time again from seemingly perfect ebayer stores even. Such as IndoAudio, 3 seperate incidents of PPl recieving Phoenix gold amps totally DOA and then denied any kind of resolution without persistence on their part for extended periods of time. (all the while musicless) I understand that the local authorised dealer is not the cheapest place to buy thigns, and believe me I know first hand how sweet of a deal can be had elsewhere, but after my dealings with ed, (and their close relatives, avonixx) I can assure you that I've spent WAY more in re-building, shipping, down time, and pure anger than I would have just going and paying full suggested retail anywhere for something decent and worthwhile... evenif it DOES take that extra week of saving pennies to afford, or if it means I have to settle for the next to the best, in reality, the headache you save is worth it.
 
For that cost you should consider JL's new W1v2 subs. Considering a W3 at full retial is only $200, I don't think the $40 savings is worth no warrenty at all.
 
Poseur said:
more linkage

http://caraudiotalk.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=3163&hl=sheep
And herw's What I consider to be the most accurate breakdown of actual speaker dynamics as applies to this case:
http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2192&st=30

Keep in mind that someof these screen names are actually fairly well known indstry muckymucks. sometimes under a bit of disguise just to avoid getting in trouble for slander.

i've heard that breakdown of the mids before. there is no way you could have done that to them. i've rubbed it in bens face a few times on elite car audio that he can't edit the posts. the post by sandt38 and geolemon are the best to read. i know geolemon is on ECA, and is part of the industry, but i'm not sure about sandt38. definitely part of the industry, but i'm not sure where else he posts.
 
For that cost you should consider JL's new W1v2 subs. Considering a W3 at full retial is only $200, I don't think the $40 savings is worth no warrenty at all.

So why you gotta go and give me one more option that doesn't even appear to exist? ;)

I'd really like to stick to no larger than a 10" for space considerations, and it seemed like the w3v2's would get me at least one step up from their entry level model. Now that I just ordered the alpine 350 amp, I figure I may be overpowering the W0. (?)

Poseur- if they don't have the good sense to try and placate the moderator of a car stereo forum...

p.s. I'll skip ebay and try to go with a real store.
 
AceinPDX said:
So why you gotta go and give me one more option that doesn't even appear to exist? ;)
They are starting to trickle into store right now. JL just won't update their website until next year after CES.

AceinPDX said:
I'd really like to stick to no larger than a 10" for space considerations, and it seemed like the w3v2's would get me at least one step up from their entry level model. Now that I just ordered the alpine 350 amp, I figure I may be overpowering the W0. (?)
W3's are now 2 steps up from the entry level since the W1 came around, although JL's entry level matches up with some manufacturers mid level subs as it is. Don't worry about overpower the W0 with that amp, it will be fine, especialy since there is no 2 ohm W0.
 
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