New User...

[BrianG]

Just got my new 3 last week (Lava Orange HB) and LOVE IT! Spent lots of time researching cars and finally decided on the 3 and not regretting it. This site has been really nice in finding answers to some questions regarding upgrading. I just thought I'd share my experience.

One of the first things I did was get the kit and wire harness to replace the radio with my Alpine CDA-9815 MP3 player. The kit fits nice. The LCD replacement pocket fit isn't quite as nice but passable. Removal of the "carbon fiber" piece was easy thanks to instructions found here.

My next project was to install an aftermarket alarm system. Everything went pretty much painless thanks to a wiring diagram I found here except the door trigger polarity is positive, not negative. And, the front passenger door wire is located behind the glove box, while the other door wires are found in the passenger kick panel. Keyless integration couldn't be easier, but needed two relays (lock is ground through a 1K ohm resistor, unlock is straight ground).

Next, I ran some power wire for a sub amp. I looked around here and the place that was suggested to run the wire through the firewall was inaccessable due to either the clutch and the cruise control. So, I drilled a hole right above the fuse panel (removed the glove box) about 2" to the right of the two A/C tubes.

I plan on using an "old school" RF punch60ix DSM (the old style back when they were actually good stuff - this one comes in at 270w rms mono) on either an Alpine Type R 12" sub or an old RF punch power 10" sub (again, old school). The problem I have is with the speakers. I have a set of Diamond Audio Hex 6.5" components but I don't want to run another amp to power them. My deck is supposedly 30w rms x 4 channels, but hesitate to power those nice components with deck power. My other option is to get some lower-end speakers, but then I won't be using those expensive Diamonds. I am already downgrading from my last car which had two PPI PC2150's (2x150w rms); one running 600w rms mono to the Alpine sub, and one running stereo for the components. I really don't want to put those in my 3 - they were heavy and required lots of battery current. So, I have 4 GA power wire and RCA's run, but still haven't decided what I'm gonna do about the speakers. :'(

 

[tsunami]

just get a small 2 channel amp... if you have rca's and power just get a power distrubution block and then go to 2 8awg wires to the amps...(still enough power handling for what you want) and then you will only need a short set of rca's (to go from amp 1 to amp 2) and then some speaker wire.. what is the required rms for those speakers? you could get a nice 2 channel amp pretty cheap and i am sure you will be happier with that set up then anything run off of a hu....

this would work http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF7520A and is a hell of a deal for only 100....

if you want to spend more i would suggest jl audio...

 

[BrianG]

just get a small 2 channel amp... if you have rca's and power just get a power distrubution block and then go to 2 8awg wires to the amps...(still enough power handling for what you want) and then you will only need a short set of rca's (to go from amp 1 to amp 2) and then some speaker wire.. what is the required rms for those speakers? you could get a nice 2 channel amp pretty cheap and i am sure you will be happier with that set up then anything run off of a hu....

this would work http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFREF7520A and is a hell of a deal for only 100....

if you want to spend more i would suggest jl audio...

Yeah, I decided to run another small amp to the 4 speakers. I found an old Rockford 4 channel (40w rms x 4) amp of the same generation as the Punch60 laying around so I will be able to link them for a nice clean look. I'm sure the amp is not as clean as some others out there, but it has to be better than deck power. I will be running 6 RCA's so I have fading capability as well as dedicated sub output.

To make it easier on wiring, I will probably run the speaker wire up to the radio location and just use the wires from there to the speakers. Hopefully those huge Diamond Audio crossovers will fit in the doors. I plan on using the utility tray in the trunk to install the amps so I have full use of the trunk along with the seats being down (minus the sub which can be removed). I'll have to build a new tray bottom and top to give me the room I need, but that's no big deal. I'm pretty psyched now. I've been running my deck with the built-in crossover set to 100Hz so the bass won't damage the stock speakers. Oy, but does it sound horrible!

 

[tsunami]

heheh... i don't think you will have problems fitting those in, i fit my boston Z series in my doors with the tweeters left in the factory posn...on the woofer. the only thing you have to do is cut out the little plastic part on the door panel that is made to mate to the 5x7 speaker, it will not work going to a round. everything else was ok... also make sure you either use the stock rear protector plate or have one of your own b/c your speakers will get wet and rust if you don't have some sort of covering over the back of it, the stock one just pulls off of the stock speaker..... i don't have my sub in yet but i have my cross over set at a high pass at 60hz..... (those bostons handle that pretty well...)

 

[BrianG]

Well, the system is all done. I ended up not using the Diamond Audio speakers after all because I found something wrong with one of the mids. Argg.

I ended up using Polk Momo 5x7 speakers all the way around for my mids/highs. They probably don't sound as nice as a set of 5.25" or 6.5" components, but they are sufficient. I started out with a set of RF 6x8's, but they sounded way too bright and harsh. The silk dome tweeter on the Polks are way better IMO. The crossovers fit nicely right above the speaker on top of the plastic panel just to the front of and down below the door handle. It had just finished raining when I pulled the factory speakers out and I noticed a little moisture on top of the plastic shield speaker cover. So, I pulled the shield off the stock speaker (secured with some type of gummy glue, but comes off easy enough) and put them on the Polks. There was enough glue residue left of the cover to secure to the Polk frames. It was tight, but the covers fit. Fonts are crossed over at 80Hz, 24db/oct. Rears are crossed over at 125Hz, 12 db/oct.

...And, I broke only one door clip (but not so bad it couldn't still be used)!

The amps are all in and it looks pretty good I think. I took the trunk tray and cover out (front part only) and made a new one for the amps. I cut a square hole for amp cooling and also have a pair of computer PCI slot fan coolers blowing over the fins. All I have to do now is find a 12" x 24" heavy duty grille for ventilation, but strong enough so it won't bend if something heavy sits on it. Then I will have all my stuff in and be able to use the full trunk and rear seat backs (folded down) when needed - all I have to do is remove the sub.

The time alignment and parametric EQ have been set the best I can without an RTA. Now all I need to get is either an AudioControl Epic-160 or a PhoenixGold BassCude to fine tune the sub depending on the music I'm listening to. If I rmember, I'll take some pics when the custom grill is in place. The install wasn't professionally done, but not bad considering.

 

[tsunami]

wow nicely done... i had never pulled a door apart before i started on my install and i broke like 8 clips or something awful like that (on just the fronts) once i get the speaker and amp from 1sty i will have boston Z6 up front bi amped with 75w to the tweeter and 150w to the mids running at a 65 hp.... (the tweets aren't filtered by the amp thats what the cross over is for) i will have the other 2 channels of 75w going to the rear doors to power jlxr series and then i will have 400w going to the trunk for the new boston sub. when its all done that is.... still waiting on some $$ for the last amps and sub....interested on how your amp layout is b/c i was looking at kind of the same thing once i have all 3. pictures would be great...

 

[BrianG]

Thanks!

That sounds like a pretty kick@ss system you're gonna have! There are times I miss my old system, but that's OK as I'm getting older and not using it as much as I used to.

My last car had some serious power (for me), but I was tired of dealing with electrical issues, and I certainly don't want to start by replacing the alternator in my new car possibly risking my extended warranty.

It was pretty easy to mount the amps since I'm using two smaller ones. As soon as I either fabricate or buy a suitable grille to cover the hole I made in the top board for amp cooling (about 10" x 20"), I'll take a picture of the install. Probably the most difficult part was find how to mount the 1F (I hate flickering lights) capacitor. After using 1/2" boards for the bottom and top of the tray, I only had 2+5/8" of space and the cap is 3" in diameter. So, I cut a rectangular hole into the bottom board the length of the cap and then sawed angles so the cap would be countersunk into the bottom board like so (end-view):

_____         ______
     \_______/
____________________

After doing this, I had a whole 1/16" to spare (the cap doesn't sit the whole 1/2" down)

When I bought the car and looked at the trunk tray, I knew that was where my amps were gonna go. I like the fact that the amps are out of the way and yet have access to my spare tire. However, picking it up is harder due to the weight, but I'm a big guy. I made it so I can just pull my fabricated trays out and re-install the factory ones with hardly any fuss when it comes time to sell it.

 

[tsunami]

nice... will have to remember that when i put the cap in mine... makes sense, and you still had a 16th to spare... i am thinking of using lexan for the top peice just some sort of board for the bottom, probably wrap it in either a fabric, or vinyl.... stay to the red and black theme through out the car.... i would suggest going online to a site such as www.mcmaster.com they should have any type of metal screen you would want i think. its an industrial supply but i think you can just order whatever over the interenet with a credit card.... just looked it up, the stainless shiat isn't cheap but the aluminum is abour right 40$ for a 36x40 sheet.... you may need to brace it if you are using it as the sole peice on top, the thickest i saw real quick was 14g..(just over 50thousandths thick) the stainless came thicker but $$ ??

 

[El Ropo]

Nice setup. Just a fyi for the so inclined, there is plenty of room under the seats for amps. I've got an eD Nine.1 which is 14 7/8" x 11" x 2.2", under my driver's seat, with a soundstream D200II and a D100II under the passenger seat, along with fused distro block.

This leaves all of my hidden storage useable for other stuff. I can also pull the sub box and the fuse for the sub amp, then run my front comps full range for full use of my hatch area. IE for camping or fishing or hunting.

When you get tired of the off sound of 6 x 8s, I'd suggest looking into a good pair of round 6.5" or 6.75" components. It requires that you build a MDF adapter to convert from oval to round speaker, but it's quite easy to do.

 

[BrianG]

I'll have to keep that in mind in case I decide I don't like what I currently have. I already had MDF adaptors built, but found something wrong with one of the Diamond Audio mid drivers, and didn't use them. I was pretty miffed. I'm not sure I want to put amps under the seat - all the ones I've removed from cars are pretty scratched up. Plus, I have kids that I'm sure will jam their gravel encrusted boots under the seats this winter...

Anyway, here are a couple of pics:

The ventilation grill works great even though it's not the prettiest thing in the world. Those amps get pretty warm so it is necessary. It is really strong though - I can push down the center of the grill and it doesn't bend much.

Oh, and the crappy Q-Logic box is temporary. I plan on building/getting a more custom box, but this was lying around and will have to do until I come up with the time and cash to get a better one.

I just won an Ebay auction for a Phoenix Gold BassCube unit. I wanted more flexibility in bass adjustability without having to go through the different EQ menus on the deck. Sometime this week, I'm gonna head to an install shop to use their RTA meter so I can use the deck's parametric EQ to even out any dips/valleys in the midrange/highs region. Hopefully the unit will arrive before next weekend so I can have everything done except for the sub box.

 

[tsunami]

what material did you use to make that amp rack? is it just resting on top of the spare?

 

[BrianG]

No, it's about 1/4" above the spare tire. It's just a piece of 1/2" plywood that rests on the sides of the spare tire well. The texture is fleckstone paint (hides imperfections, looks good IMO, and is durable). I didn't want carpet for that area, and I don't like vinyl (at all). I left a bit of room in the amp area for different sized amps in case I decide to change things around.

Yeah, the wiring is a bit messy, but not very visible with the grate on. I plan on cleaning things up a little when my BassCube arrives. I wanted to make a channel for the wiring, but it would compromise the strength of the bottom board.

 

[tsunami]

thanks for the info... was curious as to how you have it tacked down.... great picks, looks good cause you can't see the wires with the floor down, and unless you are going to shows its not a biggie... thanks for the ideas and info...

 

[Captain KRM P5]

looks good welcome to the forums

 

[BrianG]

Well, I decided those Rockford amps just didn't sound as good as I was hoping. Plus, the amp rack wasn't as nice as I want either. So, I redid the whole thing, removed the RF amps, and installed a PPI PC2600 for the sub (1x600w rms@4ohm) and a PC2400 (2x100w @4ohm) for the mids/highs. Just like the last version, this rack retains access to the spare tire.

Here's the trunk with the new rack:

The grate is for amp cooling.


The next picture is with the front panel pulled out. This panel is simply held down by weight - but it fits pretty snug. Notice the jack parts strapped in nice and neat. The amps and BassCube processor are mounted on 3/8" spacers so I can run the wire under the device and through channels in the rear "wall". You can't see it, but for times where I can't take a sub with me (on trips with the family), I mounted a tiny toggle switch under the sub amp (white one), but reachable, so I can shut it off without effecting the rest of the system. This is so I don't have to worry about the sub wire shorting out somewhere. The 1F capacitor was a little too wide so I had to countersink it (just like my last setup).

This last picture is with the rear panel off. This one is held with allen bolts, but I mounted the wrench along with one of the jack parts in case I need it. This is where all the wiring is located. I designed this rack so all the wiring was done in my basement and all I had to do was connect stuff when I slid it in the car. All power wires are totally seperated from the signal wires. The heatsink thing you see is a little attenuator for the rear fill speakers. This lets me use a 2-channel amp to power the rears, but not at full power. The 2 pairs of 2 ohm resistors (1ohm/channel) wired in series with the rear speakers are sandwiched between two older CPU heatsinks. The power rating of each resistor is 10w each, but since this area is covered, I wanted to make sure they wouldn't overheat - hence the heatsinks (mounted with thermal epoxy). While the front is getting 100w/channel, the rears are getting 64w/channel, which is about -2db.

I am much happier with this setup and it sounds worlds better.

 

[ZoomVT]

holy smokes. im totally ignorant about this stuff and all you said meant nothing to me. but i can spot a good system when isee it. lol
i like what you have done. i wish i knew more about audio setups and stuff like this. I looks great man.
so is your spare gone now? or is it under the amps?

 

[BrianG]

Thanks! Yup, the spare is under the rack and easily accessible. The whole amp rack pivots up to get to the spare, but it is kinda heavy. When I designed this rack, I was looking to achieve the following goals:
- I wanted to keep the trunk free so I can still transport stuff
- have the whole rack easily removable should I need to do some work on it
- Any modifications are completely reversable
- The floor must be sturdy
- Easy access to the spare tire
- Must contain a spot for the jack parts
- Clean look.
The only thing I'd like to change is the grate for amp cooling - it works well, but it doesn't look like it belongs there. I have little choice unless I want to modify the side panels of the trunk for fan cooling (which I'm not about to do). There is only about 1/8" of space over the amps, so cooling is a real concern - the grate was the easiest solution and is quite sturdy (1/8" expanded steel) though despite having such large openings.

 

[ZoomVT]

i didnt even think you could fit amps and stuff on top of the spare tire. i will check it out and i will prob put my carputer there.
i such a noob though that it will be a long ass project.

 

[BrianG]

i didnt even think you could fit amps and stuff on top of the spare tire. i will check it out and i will prob put my carputer there.
i such a noob though that it will be a long ass project.

The hatchback 3 has a false floor already that is about 4" deep. It actually varies from about 4" deep towards the seats to about 3.5" deep near the hatch opening. This location houses the jack parts and a couple compartments for various "stuff". So, it turned out to be a perfect location, although I kept the height an even 4" front to back. 4" sounds like a lot of room, but when you add up the top and bottom floor panels (1/2" each), amp height (2.25"), any amp standoffs (3/8") for wiring, space above the amps (about 1/8"), and carpet thickness (about 1/8" total), it adds up quick!

 

[tsunami]

yeah thats where my amps are right now as well... and my jack tools are tucked into the jack stand hole and next to the spare tire... (they don't rattle at all) i am going with the fan cooling myself... just got 3 fans, though i am trying to figure out a way to hook up the thermalcouples to a digital termometer read out and install it in my dash so i can keep an eye on things once i seal it off...

btw... very clean man... much better then before...