New User...
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
Thanks! All I need now is some type of custom sub box that is easily removeable. I removed the old RF Power 10" and crap Q-logic box and put in a 1.5ft^3 custom ported box (built by me when I was still working at the stereo shop in Maine) loaded with an Alpine Type-R 12" sub. The 4" D port is about 14-15" long so it goes quite deep. It works well, but it's just a box sitting in the trunk. I have it bungeed to the luggage clips on the sides of the trunk. Not pretty. BTW: those luggage clips are plastic and do break.
tsunami: Yeah, I tried putting the jack parts against the spare tire, but would hear clanging around when going over bumps. Actually, the amp rack was going to be designed differently, but then though the extra space would be a good spot of the jacks pieces. Besides, it add that little extra touch.
tsunami: Yeah, I tried putting the jack parts against the spare tire, but would hear clanging around when going over bumps. Actually, the amp rack was going to be designed differently, but then though the extra space would be a good spot of the jacks pieces. Besides, it add that little extra touch.
You coud do something like what I am doing...a subwoofer box that doubles as a cargo shelf. I'm still not sure how I am going to fasten it down though...It bounces when I go over big bumps in the road.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118918&page=3&pp=15http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=58697
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118918&page=3&pp=15http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=58697
Yeah, I thought of doing something like mounting the sub to the "rear deck", but was wondering if the side walls were strong enough to support the weight, especially with the added strain of stops/starts/turns/bumps.
The design I was thinking about involves fabricating a new deck, and angling (actually curving) down and towards the seatbacks so the sub fires at a slight downward angle. This would help increase the distance the sound waves travel thereby allowing me to hear the longer wavelength of deeper notes. This design would also give me more floor room in the trunk. I could also make a removeable panel where the sub(s) mount so I could change it over to a dual sub setup without re-doing the whole thing.
The downside to this is that it would somewhat negate one of my goals: easy access to the spare tire. Currently, I just remove the sub box and flip up the amp rack. Removing such an integrated part wouldn't be that easy I'm thinking.
Anyway, I'm very happy with the amp rack and I already have a VERY solid, nice sounding, properly tuned sub-box to use in the interim while I go through a notebook or two of design plans. What else is there to do in the winter months - it's too cold to play with my nitro R/C and too much snow to play disc golf.
The design I was thinking about involves fabricating a new deck, and angling (actually curving) down and towards the seatbacks so the sub fires at a slight downward angle. This would help increase the distance the sound waves travel thereby allowing me to hear the longer wavelength of deeper notes. This design would also give me more floor room in the trunk. I could also make a removeable panel where the sub(s) mount so I could change it over to a dual sub setup without re-doing the whole thing.
The downside to this is that it would somewhat negate one of my goals: easy access to the spare tire. Currently, I just remove the sub box and flip up the amp rack. Removing such an integrated part wouldn't be that easy I'm thinking.
Anyway, I'm very happy with the amp rack and I already have a VERY solid, nice sounding, properly tuned sub-box to use in the interim while I go through a notebook or two of design plans. What else is there to do in the winter months - it's too cold to play with my nitro R/C and too much snow to play disc golf.
Well, if I still lived on the East Coast, snowboarding/skiing would be an option. What they call hills here in Iowa wouldn't pass for a speed bump where I grew up.
I never was much into fishing, ice or otherwise. And, I can get drunk in a perfectly warm house with all the conveniences of home.
I never was much into fishing, ice or otherwise. And, I can get drunk in a perfectly warm house with all the conveniences of home.
I don't currently have any pics of the kit installed as of yet. I'll try to remember to snap a few when I can get a hold of a digital camera again. The kit I got is an actual Metra kit, so the quality and fit is good. It's the normal black textured plastic, but you can use plastic dye to get whatever color you want. The bottom pocket is nice to have.
The LCD slot is a little different though - it fits OK, but the bottom edge of the replacement piece doesn't quite sit flush with the bottom edge of the carbon fiber part. It's just a wee bit, so a little heating and working with the plastic kits should solve it - I just haven't done that yet. The plastic isn't textured either, and it kinda looks like you have a tweeter horn in there with the way the sides curve in.
The opening for the radio is your typical DIN mounting so it's pretty painless. My Alpine fits fine, even with all the RCA's in there.
Since the radio opening is not as wide as the whole kit, there is room to mount things like an alarm LED and/or a bass control knob (providing it isn't too big) at the sides. Keeps you from drilling holes in the actual car plastic.
The LCD slot is a little different though - it fits OK, but the bottom edge of the replacement piece doesn't quite sit flush with the bottom edge of the carbon fiber part. It's just a wee bit, so a little heating and working with the plastic kits should solve it - I just haven't done that yet. The plastic isn't textured either, and it kinda looks like you have a tweeter horn in there with the way the sides curve in.
The opening for the radio is your typical DIN mounting so it's pretty painless. My Alpine fits fine, even with all the RCA's in there.
Since the radio opening is not as wide as the whole kit, there is room to mount things like an alarm LED and/or a bass control knob (providing it isn't too big) at the sides. Keeps you from drilling holes in the actual car plastic.
Similar Threads and Articles
- Article
