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new turbo?
- Thread starter Tw0LeGiT
- Start date
my car was throwing codes p2006 and p0300. i replaced the plugs coils and wires to see if that fixed p0300 it didn't. so i replaced the EGR valve to fix it. and it didn't. so i took it to the mechanic to run a diagnostic. said i need new turbo, o ring and gasket. they quoted me $4200 just seeing if i can buy a after market and save myself some money. but the symptoms are if i hit about 3200 rpm then come to a idle it starts miss firing and next to stalls plus it has no power. then u have to turn it off and wait about 2 mins for it to stop miss firing
The syptoms don't look like a canned turbo. Sometimes a vaccum leak or broken wastegate actuator can feel pretty harsh under acceleration. To check if your turbo is done, do this:
1) Loosen clamp connecting airbox to cold pipe (cold pipe goes from airbox to turbo intake). Disconnect cold pipe form airbox
2) Remove hose going to the BPV (only pipe connected to the cold pipe). Careful, the nipple is glued, it will break of you pull to hard on it. While at it, check to see if it is cracks where the nipple is glued to the cold pipe. Mine was, it was a b**** to detect this problem
3) Loosen clamp connecting cold pipe to turbo
4) Heating the connection with a hair dryer for some time (trust me, it works), remove the cold pipe
5) Look inside the turbo inlet for oil or steel debris
6) Grab the turbo shaft and wiggle to see if there is excessive play
Go backwards to reinstall. Now, p2006 is "Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1". That is the VTCS code. From anther thread "VTCS are the set right at the head that just cause turbulence for cold start emmissions for less than 30 seconds upon startup". That could be part of the problem, search the forum for solutions on that code. Check your spark plugs for the misfire. If they need to be replaced,
make sure the gap is right if you install new ones.
1) Loosen clamp connecting airbox to cold pipe (cold pipe goes from airbox to turbo intake). Disconnect cold pipe form airbox
2) Remove hose going to the BPV (only pipe connected to the cold pipe). Careful, the nipple is glued, it will break of you pull to hard on it. While at it, check to see if it is cracks where the nipple is glued to the cold pipe. Mine was, it was a b**** to detect this problem
3) Loosen clamp connecting cold pipe to turbo
4) Heating the connection with a hair dryer for some time (trust me, it works), remove the cold pipe
5) Look inside the turbo inlet for oil or steel debris
6) Grab the turbo shaft and wiggle to see if there is excessive play
Go backwards to reinstall. Now, p2006 is "Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1". That is the VTCS code. From anther thread "VTCS are the set right at the head that just cause turbulence for cold start emmissions for less than 30 seconds upon startup". That could be part of the problem, search the forum for solutions on that code. Check your spark plugs for the misfire. If they need to be replaced,
make sure the gap is right if you install new ones.
- :
- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
The code is based on air flow in to the engine. The PCM expects to see a certain amount of airflow in to the engine at a certain RPM and load range and if that reading is incorrect it may think the VTCS flaps are not opening. In this case the turbo chargers are known to fail and cause this code, the waste gate binds in the housing when hot. This is a well documented failure on this turbo. I included a "how-to" in another thread of how to correct this issue. So, those of you telling him it's not a turbo could very well be wrong. I personally experienced this problem and "repaired" the turbo and it took care of the P2006.
-ASE Certified Automotive Tech/Service Consultant/Parts (A1, A4, A5, C1, P2)
-ASE Certified Automotive Tech/Service Consultant/Parts (A1, A4, A5, C1, P2)
Quoting from another website:
What does that mean?
Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 diagnostic code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.
SymptomsSymptoms may include:
•the engine may be harder to start
•the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
•other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
•Faulty spark plugs or wires
•Faulty coil (pack)
•Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
•Faulty fuel injector(s)
•Burned exhaust valve
•Faulty catalytic converter(s)
•Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
•Faulty camshaft position sensor
•Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open."
I think they are related since P6000 has to do with air flow which can have an impact on your air/fuel ration, but it also possible they are not. I thinke there are some vaccum lines going to your VTCS (I don't recall exactly where they are, I sold my MSP 2 years ago) on top of your intake manifold. Check if they are cracked or loose. Maybe the solenoid is disconnected or screwed. Some members had this issue before.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123801695-Check-engine-code-p2006
May also be what Preferio stated before, happened to some people as well.
What does that mean?
Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 diagnostic code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.
SymptomsSymptoms may include:
•the engine may be harder to start
•the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
•other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
•Faulty spark plugs or wires
•Faulty coil (pack)
•Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
•Faulty fuel injector(s)
•Burned exhaust valve
•Faulty catalytic converter(s)
•Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
•Faulty camshaft position sensor
•Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open."
I think they are related since P6000 has to do with air flow which can have an impact on your air/fuel ration, but it also possible they are not. I thinke there are some vaccum lines going to your VTCS (I don't recall exactly where they are, I sold my MSP 2 years ago) on top of your intake manifold. Check if they are cracked or loose. Maybe the solenoid is disconnected or screwed. Some members had this issue before.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123801695-Check-engine-code-p2006
May also be what Preferio stated before, happened to some people as well.
I would like to understand how replacing the turbo solved the p2006 code? Preferio, can you provide a link to your how-to?
There are countless MSP owners who have removed their VCTS and VICS butterflies but left the solenoids attached and do not have any codes associated with it. So I don't see how either would disrupt the airflow enough to cause a misfire.
The PCM expects 6.0 lb/min from the MAF above 3k rpms, 158F, and 75% throttle. If not it will throw a code for P1512 thinking the VTCS is stuck, but AFAIK this value is the same for both NA Proteges and MSPs.
The VICS is only checked for circuit malfunction by the voltage on pin 19, there is no airflow specification for it. The VICS helps a lot at higher rpms, but it wouldn't affect idle much one way or the other. This is code P0660. P2006 doesn't actually exist in the service manual.
Here is what I am thinking. Since the problem does not manifest itself until you cross 3k rpms, it is probably related to the VTCS. When the OP crosses 3k rpms when warm and at 75% throttle, the solenoid pops and the VTCS is released. When he crosses back down to idle again the solenoid gets stuck open to atmosphere, and the IM is drawing in unmetered air while the VTCS flaps are open causing the misfire.
When he shuts off the car, no more vacuum to keep the solenoid open and it closes. Start the car up again, vacuum holds and VTCS opens, car idles fine again. Cross 3k rpms and the cycle repeats.
Sounds like just need to replace the solenoid. You can test it by just swapping the two solenoids since hopefully both didn't fail at the same time. Shouldn't be hard to get one from a pick and pull or a part out here. Or they probably aren't even too bad new.
$4200 for a turbo is absolutely insane. Whatever you do, don't give a mechanic any money. The people on this forum have had the car for 10 years, short of an engine or tranny rebuild there is nothing we can't walk you through, and there are a few who might even walk you through that if you don't mind buying a few tools.
There are countless MSP owners who have removed their VCTS and VICS butterflies but left the solenoids attached and do not have any codes associated with it. So I don't see how either would disrupt the airflow enough to cause a misfire.
The PCM expects 6.0 lb/min from the MAF above 3k rpms, 158F, and 75% throttle. If not it will throw a code for P1512 thinking the VTCS is stuck, but AFAIK this value is the same for both NA Proteges and MSPs.
The VICS is only checked for circuit malfunction by the voltage on pin 19, there is no airflow specification for it. The VICS helps a lot at higher rpms, but it wouldn't affect idle much one way or the other. This is code P0660. P2006 doesn't actually exist in the service manual.
Here is what I am thinking. Since the problem does not manifest itself until you cross 3k rpms, it is probably related to the VTCS. When the OP crosses 3k rpms when warm and at 75% throttle, the solenoid pops and the VTCS is released. When he crosses back down to idle again the solenoid gets stuck open to atmosphere, and the IM is drawing in unmetered air while the VTCS flaps are open causing the misfire.
When he shuts off the car, no more vacuum to keep the solenoid open and it closes. Start the car up again, vacuum holds and VTCS opens, car idles fine again. Cross 3k rpms and the cycle repeats.
Sounds like just need to replace the solenoid. You can test it by just swapping the two solenoids since hopefully both didn't fail at the same time. Shouldn't be hard to get one from a pick and pull or a part out here. Or they probably aren't even too bad new.
$4200 for a turbo is absolutely insane. Whatever you do, don't give a mechanic any money. The people on this forum have had the car for 10 years, short of an engine or tranny rebuild there is nothing we can't walk you through, and there are a few who might even walk you through that if you don't mind buying a few tools.
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