New Transmission Costs

Just want to add that RTV removal is manageable with the right tools. A plastic scraper/blade will remove the thick residues, mostly on the pan, and a piece of steel wool will scrub off the base layer pretty easily. Checking the time stamp on my pics, it took less than two hours to get the mating surfaces ready.

Getting the residue off the transmission was quick when using a lift. It would be a difference experience if the car is on jack stands.

Haven't found a gasket that is confirmed to fit right, and I don't have the luxury to check and retorque freely. 🤦
 
Just want to add that RTV removal is manageable with the right tools. A plastic scraper/blade will remove the thick residues, mostly on the pan, and a piece of steel wool will scrub off the base layer pretty easily. Checking the time stamp on my pics, it took less than two hours to get the mating surfaces ready.

Getting the residue off the transmission was quick when using a lift. It would be a difference experience if the car is on jack stands.

Haven't found a gasket that is confirmed to fit right, and I don't have the luxury to check and retorque freely. 🤦
Nice work. I resorted to using Motorcraft RTV remover to help soften that gunk up some.
 
Using RTV is no problem and doesn't leak "if". You use the correct RTV, Have clean surfaces, Don't use too much, and let it cure for about an hour with the pan barely hanging by some bolts, then tighten to specs. After torquing, I also let it cure overnight before adding fluid. This takes a long time and you may not have that much time. But it works.
 
Hello,

I have a 2018 CX-5 Grand Touring Edition - 95,000 miles. Every time the car shifts out of gear it "jerks", mechanic said I need transmission. I am not savvy enough to know if he is right or wrong but he is trusted. How much should I expect to pay for a new and/or reconditioned one? I am in PGH, PA FWIW.

Thank you,
Glenn
First and foremost, 95k miles to have a transmission that is already finished is a travesty. My 2020 has 150k miles and it runs 100% like new. You simply can't tell my car has that many miles on it - no chance.

Second of all, I wouldn't trust that it already needs to be changed. I would trust the dozens of comments here saying to change the transmission fluid and filter. That is where you start before you go crazy and change the entire transmission, costing you a fortune.

Last comment is don't ever listen to manuals that tell you to never change your fluids or wait extremely long intervals to do so. That's just auto manufacturers' way of convincing the ignorant that don't know any better that it's ok to do so (please don't take that personally, I'm just driving home the point). Not changing fluids in proper intervals is the best and fastest way to destroy your engine and transmission well before they should be done, costing you thousands upon thousands more in repairs/replacement. Preventative maintenance is gospel if you want your car to take care of you for a long period of time. Fluids are relatively inexpensive to change and extend the lifespan of your vehicle when changed in proper intervals. Waiting 7 years to change fluid is a very bad idea, and it is possible that your transmission is less than optimal now because you did this (I am under the assumption the fluid has never been changed, correct me if I'm wrong). Fluids lose viscosity through time/exposure to air and the environment on its own. Once sealed containers are opened for the first time, the fluid life starts to tick away. I don't have your problem in having to wait long to change fluids, because I drive 48,000kms a year (30,000 miles) so I'm on a regular Km interval to change it every 48,000kms, or once per year. For someone that drives as light as you do, however, you should be changing that fluid no less than once every 2 years. Engine oil no less than once a year, and even every 6 months is better.

My 2 cents.
 
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