New Transmission Costs

[SparkYellow]

Just want to add that RTV removal is manageable with the right tools. A plastic scraper/blade will remove the thick residues, mostly on the pan, and a piece of steel wool will scrub off the base layer pretty easily. Checking the time stamp on my pics, it took less than two hours to get the mating surfaces ready.

Getting the residue off the transmission was quick when using a lift. It would be a difference experience if the car is on jack stands.

Haven't found a gasket that is confirmed to fit right, and I don't have the luxury to check and retorque freely.

 

[ruthrj]

Just want to add that RTV removal is manageable with the right tools. A plastic scraper/blade will remove the thick residues, mostly on the pan, and a piece of steel wool will scrub off the base layer pretty easily. Checking the time stamp on my pics, it took less than two hours to get the mating surfaces ready.

Getting the residue off the transmission was quick when using a lift. It would be a difference experience if the car is on jack stands.

Haven't found a gasket that is confirmed to fit right, and I don't have the luxury to check and retorque freely.

Nice work. I resorted to using Motorcraft RTV remover to help soften that gunk up some.

 

[Yo'sDad]

Using RTV is no problem and doesn't leak "if". You use the correct RTV, Have clean surfaces, Don't use too much, and let it cure for about an hour with the pan barely hanging by some bolts, then tighten to specs. After torquing, I also let it cure overnight before adding fluid. This takes a long time and you may not have that much time. But it works.

 

[2020 CX5 Ow]

Hello,

I have a 2018 CX-5 Grand Touring Edition - 95,000 miles. Every time the car shifts out of gear it "jerks", mechanic said I need transmission. I am not savvy enough to know if he is right or wrong but he is trusted. How much should I expect to pay for a new and/or reconditioned one? I am in PGH, PA FWIW.

Thank you,
Glenn

First and foremost, 95k miles to have a transmission that is already finished is a travesty. My 2020 has 150k miles and it runs 100% like new. You simply can't tell my car has that many miles on it - no chance.

Second of all, I wouldn't trust that it already needs to be changed. I would trust the dozens of comments here saying to change the transmission fluid and filter. That is where you start before you go crazy and change the entire transmission, costing you a fortune.

Last comment is don't ever listen to manuals that tell you to never change your fluids or wait extremely long intervals to do so. That's just auto manufacturers' way of convincing the ignorant that don't know any better that it's ok to do so (please don't take that personally, I'm just driving home the point). Not changing fluids in proper intervals is the best and fastest way to destroy your engine and transmission well before they should be done, costing you thousands upon thousands more in repairs/replacement.

Preventative maintenance is gospel if you want your car to take care of you for a long period of time. Fluids are relatively inexpensive to change and extend the lifespan of your vehicle when changed in proper intervals. Waiting 7 years to change fluid is a very bad idea, and it is possible that your transmission is less than optimal now because you did this (I am under the assumption the fluid has never been changed, correct me if I'm wrong). Fluids lose viscosity through time/exposure to air and the environment on its own. Once sealed containers are opened for the first time, the fluid life starts to tick away.

I don't have your problem in having to wait long to change fluids, because I drive 48,000kms a year (30,000 miles) so I'm on a regular Km interval to change it every 48,000kms, or once per year. For someone that drives as light as you do, however, you should be changing that fluid no less than once every 2 years. Engine oil no less than once a year, and even every 6 months is better.

My 2 cents.

 

[AL Cx5]

Thank you! I did 85 inch-pounds at the time. I am starting to understand why OEM is RTV, it holds/sticks the pan to the transmission housing, whereas a gasket is more like a cushion. Will have to redo this if I find out tomorrow that it's leaking. Thank you and your collaborators for all the guidance here and in other threads!

Well was your trans pan tight or leaking a bit?

 

[SparkYellow]

Well was your trans pan tight or leaking a bit?

I didn't find clear evidence of leak. No oily residue dripping down the sides or through bolt holes. I could see or feel the RTV (it looks silver in the pic) in most areas around the pan, except near the wheel. The level was low though. I have 4.5 quarts in now. Will keep monitoring the temp and level. Temp went as high as 212 on a long drive after the filter job. After adding 0.5 quart, temp now goes as high as 208. I am looking for threads about ATF temp, found mostly folks trying to get the info displayed, but not much about the actual temp.

One thing I just noticed today is that fresh blue ATF turns yellow (like fresh motor oil) under some circumstances. The hand pump that I used to fill ATF was put in a plastic bag in my trunk. Some fluid leaked from the bag and when I wiped it off, it was yellow. I remember reading somewhere that the blue fluid turns clear when heated.

 

[AL Cx5]

I didn't find clear evidence of leak. No oily residue dripping down the sides or through bolt holes. I could see or feel the RTV (it looks silver in the pic) in most areas around the pan, except near the wheel. The level was low though. I have 4.5 quarts in now. Will keep monitoring the temp and level. Temp went as high as 212 on a long drive after the filter job. After adding 0.5 quart, temp now goes as high as 208. I am looking for threads about ATF temp, found mostly folks trying to get the info displayed, but not much about the actual temp.

One thing I just noticed today is that fresh blue ATF turns yellow (like fresh motor oil) under some circumstances. The hand pump that I used to fill ATF was put in a plastic bag in my trunk. Some fluid leaked from the bag and when I wiped it off, it was yellow. I remember reading somewhere that the blue fluid turns clear when heated.

Good info.

When I change out the atf I'll measure how much fluid is is in the pan and add a bit more for the filter. Hopefully this gets the level close the first time.

My Domestic has a German design Nag1 trans. We use a temp chart vs fluid level. We get it spot on.

For the Mazda, before changing atf I get the trans about 120f, check and note the level with the engine running. Then use this to set the level after changing fluid..

Mazda put the trans dip stick in an inconvenient location! Ugh

 

[SparkYellow]

Good info.

When I change out the atf I'll measure how much fluid is is in the pan and add a bit more for the filter. Hopefully this gets the level close the first time.

My Domestic has a German design Nag1 trans. We use a temp chart vs fluid level. We get it spot on.

For the Mazda, before changing atf I get the trans about 120f, check and note the level with the engine running. Then use this to set the level after changing fluid..

Mazda put the trans dip stick in an inconvenient location! Ugh

At the DIY shop I used one of those tall red reservoirs to support my common round drain pan. It collected everything from the drain, the filter, the residual from the pan, and the constant drips from the transmission. Then I had to move it out of the way to clean the mating surface. I got about 3.5 quarts in that drain pan. The subsequent drips onto me and the floor didn't seem to be that much.

What happens with over-fill? Which side should I err on?

 

[AL Cx5]

At the DIY shop I used one of those tall red reservoirs to support my common round drain pan. It collected everything from the drain, the filter, the residual from the pan, and the constant drips from the transmission. Then I had to move it out of the way to clean the mating surface. I got about 3.5 quarts in that drain pan. The subsequent drips onto me and the floor didn't seem to be that much.

What happens with over-fill? Which side should I err on?

Overfilling is "better" than under filling but could blow the seals and run hot. The atf will foam...

I read that 3.5 quarts was about right. You confirmed, 3.5 quarts is a safe place to start, thanks.

I'm OCD getting my electronic trans level correct. They are not as tolerant as the dumb old school domestics. My dumb, 48re, domestic beast has an overflow port and drains the excess atf on the back of the trans. It makes a mess but saves the trans.

Best, get the correct level ASAP.

 

[SparkYellow]

Overfilling is "better" than under filling but could blow the seals and run hot. The atf will foam...

I read that 3.5 quarts was about right. You confirmed, 3.5 quarts is a safe place to start, thanks.

I'm OCD getting my electronic trans level correct. They are not as tolerant as the dumb old school domestics. My dumb, 48re, domestic beast has an overflow port and drains the excess atf on the back of the trans. It makes a mess but saves the trans.

Best, get the correct level ASAP.

I read here that one member got 6+ quarts out after letting it drain over night.

The only other transmissions I had changed the fluid for are both manual and straight-forward drain/fill with no filter involved. ATF is a lot more complicated.

Here are pics of fresh fluid in blue and yellow. This was tucked in the deep end of the trunk for the most part. It must have got exposed to the sun while I left the hatch open at the campsite.