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[Muffinman5323]

(breakn) new here and was just wondering what kind of engine swap would you guys recommend for a 94 mazda 626?just got it and the engine thats in it has 195,000. i would like to enjoy it and not have to worry about the engine keeling over...luckily its a manual transmission so i can actually have some more fun then with a automatic (drive)...

 

[NRRfrogmanP5]

welcome, everyone likes muffins!

 

[Muffinman5323]

(dance)(2thumbs)(cabpatch)

 

[papster]

hello and welcome m8! Well it all depends on what your after and your budget as maybe a 2.5 v6 conversion or a 2.2 turbo if you want the bonus of a turbo =)
good luck with what you decide m8

 

[Maz94Protege]

KL-ZE 2.5L conversion, but if you have the 2.0L then the FS-ZE 2.0L(170hp NA) or FS-DET (170HP aprox. +- 2.0L Turbo, same as in a Mazdaspeed Protege)

 

[PrinceValorum]

if you have the 2.0L then the FS-ZE 2.0L(170hp NA)

(yupnope)

The (very) few people that have done it said it's not worth it. The ECU (where you get the majority of the power) is not compatible and will be a wiring nightmare.

IMO, a better option if you have the money might be to rebuild your engine forged and turbo it. It's the same motor in the Mazdaspeed Protege that came turbo from the factory.

The other option is the v6 swap, which will probably be more work (both will be lots of work) because of replacing more parts.

There's lots of info available for everything, assuming you have the 4cyl. (2thumbs)

If you've got the v6, you can swap the KLZE, or build a better one. More info about the engines (excellent stuff):
http://www.mazda626.net/topic/37114-klde-vs-klg4-vs-klze/

 

[Maz94Protege]

(yupnope)

The (very) few people that have done it said it's not worth it. The ECU (where you get the majority of the power) is not compatible and will be a wiring nightmare.

Yea my buddy jeremy did it in his 00 Sport 20 converted ES. Lots of power, he has always babied the car. But yea he had to buy the tranny ecu and new harness.

Very rare.


But its easier and cheaper to find a wrecked MSP or just to the KLZE

 

[Muffinman5323]

thanks for the reply everyone! i have the v6 2.5L version...i was looking into the KL-ZE 2.5L engine but read somewhere that you cant really add a turbo to it becuz the compression ratio is high and the cylinder walls are thin.so adding anymore pressure might blow the cylinder head. i dont know correct me if im wrong please! i think the stock track time for a 1/4 is 15-16 seconds im trying to get it down to at least 13 seconds.

 

[JKPgt96]

Incorrect. People boost the KLZE all the time and have fantastic results. However, you are looking at 1000 buck to get one, let alone have it installed (if you don't install it yourself). For that money you could take out your stock motor, rebuild it with forged rods/pistons and boost as much as you want through it for ~1500-2000 bucks.

In all honesty though it depends on the condition of your engine. If it has good compression and doesn't leak/burn oil then I would just boost the engine that is in there on low boost ~5psi and enjoy it. You could then build a forged motor on the side and drop it in whenever you are done with it. A bolt-ons ZE swap should net you 14s without much issue, provided you can drive a little.

To get into the 13s you will likely need nitrous or another form of forced induction. Most people will not go through the trouble to get there n/a (even though I chose to do a crazy n/a build). If you want to get into the 13s n/a you can, just most will take the easy road and boost instead. Also, it is rare to see a KL put a rod through the cylinder wall/block, they almost always bend a rod and disintegrate into a pile of metal in the pan.

 

[Muffinman5323]

Incorrect. People boost the KLZE all the time and have fantastic results. However, you are looking at 1000 buck to get one, let alone have it installed (if you don't install it yourself). For that money you could take out your stock motor, rebuild it with forged rods/pistons and boost as much as you want through it for ~1500-2000 bucks.

In all honesty though it depends on the condition of your engine. If it has good compression and doesn't leak/burn oil then I would just boost the engine that is in there on low boost ~5psi and enjoy it. You could then build a forged motor on the side and drop it in whenever you are done with it. A bolt-ons ZE swap should net you 14s without much issue, provided you can drive a little.

To get into the 13s you will likely need nitrous or another form of forced induction. Most people will not go through the trouble to get there n/a (even though I chose to do a crazy n/a build). If you want to get into the 13s n/a you can, just most will take the easy road and boost instead. Also, it is rare to see a KL put a rod through the cylinder wall/block, they almost always bend a rod and disintegrate into a pile of metal in the pan.

dam even if it disintegrates thats even worse lol...at least if it shoots through the cylinder wall you know what happened to it..lol..i dont mind taking the time to n/a the motor i think it might be a lil more worth it knowing that you actually took the time out to build up horse power instead of throwing a turbo in it...the engine leaks oil i might just get another 1 and drop it in.was thinking about the ze but with costs and all i might just go for the same v6 and just build on it,but if its more cost effective for me to have it rebuilt then ill go that route...eh **** it might as well work on the body for now till i can figure something out for swapping..but thanks for the input definitely something worth pondering (mj)

 

[JKPgt96]

Nah, you will know either way if something goes wrong..its just not common at all to see a rods through the side of the block on a KL.

If you drop in another DE, then rebuild the one that is in there with whatever you like...I think that would be your best bet. But you HAVE to decide which direction you want to go with it before you start buying parts for it..boost it or don't you need to make a for sure decision. Lemme know if you have questions..or post up, I have pretty much done anything/everything you can with an n/a KL.

 

[Muffinman5323]

finally had some time to hop on the site...well everyone i just decided to get the same type of engine and drop that in..just to drive around for a while.without having to worry to much about the engine..becuz the 1 in it like i said before leaks oil and now i think a belt is loose..i get a high as hell squealing sound as soon as the car starts..then the dam stick likes to slip from 2nd back into 1st every now and then..so gotta get that checked out..looking back now i think taking tranny class would have been a good idea,hell of alot cheaper to do it yourself and know what your doing at that..the car is drivable just not hey i wanna push it to the limit drivable without checking and fixing the problems with it now.

 

[bakwoods]

New to the forum and looking to basically do some work on my girlfriend's car. Unfortunately I've had some bad experiences with my previous two 626's due to failing A/T and now this one has had nothing but problems like a cracked oil pan, engine mounts rotting, and other little things. I can only assume it was the moron before her that ruined the car before selling it because it's been running well since I started fixing it all up.

Unfortunately I'm a newbie to the Mazda engine (V6) so I'm not sure where to begin. I'm not new to modding so don't be worried about losing me along the way.

Right now I'm looking for info on where and how to take out the alternator on this car. Any links would be appreciated. I saw the mazdatechinfo site however that requires $20 for 24 hr use, kind of funny considering other companies provide their info free.

 

[JKPgt96]

If the 626's were 4 cylinder Autos that is why you had transmission issues...those transmissions are HORRID..