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new to forum... squeeky brakes
- Thread starter js1268
- Start date
So in the EARLY 04 case (mine, crap) the Hawks pads and rotors may not be the best choice? I have never had a squeak or much of a grinding noise until now that they are almost toatly shot. Just a lot of rust build up after over night rain or sitting in humidity without driving for a while.
Thoughts on the Hawks vs going to the dealer for the TSB replacements?
Also never had problems with the AC but thanks for pointing out the possibility. Any known threads about installing the cabin filters?
Thanks again everyone!
Thoughts on the Hawks vs going to the dealer for the TSB replacements?
Also never had problems with the AC but thanks for pointing out the possibility. Any known threads about installing the cabin filters?
Thanks again everyone!
i went to the dealer to get the OEs, 'uwtriguy' ..... i'm doing the job tomorrow at friend's garage with lift
i called autozone and they're gonna refund me for the Wagner pads and rotors
it's terribly obvious what's causing the squealing ..... on my car, if you look at the rear rotors.... there's about 3/4 of an inch of dull 'scarring' around the circumference of the rotor closest to the center area where the hub is....clearly, the pads aren't making consistent smooth contact on the rotor on this part of the pad... something's causing the pads to do this....it's identical on both sides
i'm gonna change the cabin air filter, as well.....A/C is horrible in vehicle...not sure where it is, but i'll find it i suspect
i called autozone and they're gonna refund me for the Wagner pads and rotors
it's terribly obvious what's causing the squealing ..... on my car, if you look at the rear rotors.... there's about 3/4 of an inch of dull 'scarring' around the circumference of the rotor closest to the center area where the hub is....clearly, the pads aren't making consistent smooth contact on the rotor on this part of the pad... something's causing the pads to do this....it's identical on both sides
i'm gonna change the cabin air filter, as well.....A/C is horrible in vehicle...not sure where it is, but i'll find it i suspect
Well now everybody has be scared that Hawk pads aren't going to fit in the calipers on an early 04 build. Called the dealer and they want twice as much for MAzda parts. Sheesh.
Next question is what a good, reliable, inexpensive replacement rotor is to match the Hawk or other pads? Pretty sure after 75,000miles on the original equipment the rotors could use a change.
Thanks as always.
Next question is what a good, reliable, inexpensive replacement rotor is to match the Hawk or other pads? Pretty sure after 75,000miles on the original equipment the rotors could use a change.
Thanks as always.
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Well now everybody has be scared that Hawk pads aren't going to fit in the calipers on an early 04 build. Called the dealer and they want twice as much for MAzda parts. Sheesh.
Next question is what a good, reliable, inexpensive replacement rotor is to match the Hawk or other pads? Pretty sure after 75,000miles on the original equipment the rotors could use a change.
Thanks as always.
Here you go. Stay away from the slotted/drilled crap. make sure you get hte rotors and pads for the proper engine.
Did I miss somwthing?
Don't know...what are you confused about?
or they can just look in the FAQ that has way more than that thread
the pads are the same shape on ALL years and ALL enginesWell now everybody has be scared that Hawk pads aren't going to fit in the calipers on an early 04 build. Called the dealer and they want twice as much for MAzda parts. Sheesh.
Next question is what a good, reliable, inexpensive replacement rotor is to match the Hawk or other pads? Pretty sure after 75,000miles on the original equipment the rotors could use a change.
Thanks as always.
the issue are the caliper brackets in the early cars that causes noise
or they can just look in the FAQ that has way more than that thread
OK....so post the link
okay, i checked the FAQ concerning the rear brake noise.... if you have a VIN that the last 8 digs are below '41131014'...then yes, you're gonna have a problem with your pads unless you modify (file down burs) on pads (part #BPYS-26-28X) and caliper brackets
however, if you your VIN is above this number -which mine is, at 51248250- then it simply involves changing the pads (P3YP-26-48Z) to the "modified" pads that Mazda sells ....same part number
...unless i'm misunderstanding something....but that's what it reads like, anyway
however, if you your VIN is above this number -which mine is, at 51248250- then it simply involves changing the pads (P3YP-26-48Z) to the "modified" pads that Mazda sells ....same part number
...unless i'm misunderstanding something....but that's what it reads like, anyway
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i wish i could send pics with my phone...but alas, i don't pay the cell phone bill....so i suffer without that feature....lol
anyway, there is a very obvious design change to the rear pads.... the original pads that came stock on the car and the subsequent aftermarket ones are designed with 'face' clips that fasten to the piston on the inboard side of the caliper
the new ones are absent these springs and now have a spring located at the top of the brake pads backing plate...the pad now simply 'sits' on the front of the inboard piston
furthermore, the OE rotors are different....there's only enough surface to account for pad contact....the Wagners had more face contact and caused the pad to rub an area that caused noise, as well
it's tough to explain....but suffice to say, there's no more noise.... =-) ....and i got my money back from autozone on the Wagner pads and rotors
i'm still getting noise from the front, however.... that's my next job.
i also installed the oil conversion kit for a spin on oil filter....very easy job...well worth it!
anyway, there is a very obvious design change to the rear pads.... the original pads that came stock on the car and the subsequent aftermarket ones are designed with 'face' clips that fasten to the piston on the inboard side of the caliper
the new ones are absent these springs and now have a spring located at the top of the brake pads backing plate...the pad now simply 'sits' on the front of the inboard piston
furthermore, the OE rotors are different....there's only enough surface to account for pad contact....the Wagners had more face contact and caused the pad to rub an area that caused noise, as well
it's tough to explain....but suffice to say, there's no more noise.... =-) ....and i got my money back from autozone on the Wagner pads and rotors
i'm still getting noise from the front, however.... that's my next job.
i also installed the oil conversion kit for a spin on oil filter....very easy job...well worth it!
Anybody have thoughts on Centric rotors -the plain ones without slots etc? They are listed along with Hawk pads on the Protegegarage.com site. Other options for plain old rotors for the rear? From the dealer is almost twice as much as the Centric.
Anybody have thoughts on Centric rotors -the plain ones without slots etc? They are listed along with Hawk pads on the Protegegarage.com site. Other options for plain old rotors for the rear? From the dealer is almost twice as much as the Centric.
I will have some new user input on Centric and Hawk shortly. I had the following installed on my 2007 Mazda 3 i-touring sedan today:
- Centric Premium vented blank rotors
- Hawk Performance Plus brake pads
- Goodridge G-Stop stainless steel brake lines
- Ate Super Blue Racing brake fluid
- some non-brake stuff too (shady)
Being brand new, the pads are squealing like a stuck pig, but the HP+ are not known for being ultra-quiet. Another forum member's calmed down after a few hundred miles, I'm hoping for the same.
I replaced my OEM stock components which had 70,000 miles on them plus two track days. I could have gotten more wear out of them, but I didn't want to push my luck. I upgraded because of the track days and I want to get into autocrossing. All of the research I did said to go with vented blank rotors for this as oppossed to drilled/slotted etc. If you are only going to be on the street, then slotted/drilled are fine too.
Major Error turned me on to the Centric/Hawk setup. I'm running the car at another open track day tomorrow, should be a good test for OEM vs. my performance upgrade (glare)
uwtriguy....
Today I ran the above mentioned brake set-up at an open track event. If you are looking for massive braking power, go with this set-up. Definitely an improvement over OEM rotors/pads/lines. Being more performance oriented, the Hawk HP+ pads become fairly quiet once they heat up on the track. They are now making a fraction of the noise they did before. Will see if that's true in the morning though....
Today I ran the above mentioned brake set-up at an open track event. If you are looking for massive braking power, go with this set-up. Definitely an improvement over OEM rotors/pads/lines. Being more performance oriented, the Hawk HP+ pads become fairly quiet once they heat up on the track. They are now making a fraction of the noise they did before. Will see if that's true in the morning though....
im running a following set up
Rotora Blank coated rotors F+R
Axxis Ultimates pads F+R
ATP SS Lines
ATE superblue fluid
Huge improvement over stock, its just axxis ultimates are noisy, unless they warm up to a high temperature.
There is no fading brakes feeling at all.. even after crazy braking constantly.
They grip harder after every single attempt. even 80mph-5mph 10 times in a row makes them brake harder.
Brake dust is a - though. but i dont mind
Rotora Blank coated rotors F+R
Axxis Ultimates pads F+R
ATP SS Lines
ATE superblue fluid
Huge improvement over stock, its just axxis ultimates are noisy, unless they warm up to a high temperature.
There is no fading brakes feeling at all.. even after crazy braking constantly.
They grip harder after every single attempt. even 80mph-5mph 10 times in a row makes them brake harder.
Brake dust is a - though. but i dont mind
I ordered the Centric rear rotors (coated) and the Hawk HPS rear pads. Just normal, everyday city driving so I'll let you know how they go when they're on. Thanks for all of your input!
Good choice. You will be quite satisfied. Give em a few miles to bed properly for maximum performance. I know was skeptical for the first 50 or so miles but after that I was beyond impressed.
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