New P5 Stereo

Ok ill check those out, but i havnt touched anything on the head unit this whole time, ive only messed with the door speakers...but ill check.

BTW i really like where you placed your tweeters on the back door speakers...how hard was it to do that? how did you run the new wiring needed for them? im thinking i wanna do something like that..

The tweeter with mount measured 1 1/2" so i used a 1" hole saw and a steady arm to cut out the space i needed in that corner. As far as wiring, my components have built in crossovers so it was only a matter of routing the wires from the speaker to the tweeter. my build thread has more pics of my audio set up.
 
mexicansoljah what fuse are you talking about under the hood? in the fuse box? which one would it be?....other than that there are no other fuses under the hood. i dont have a cable with built in fuse running off my battery or anything.
 
Zac, do you have an AMP in your car, or are you using the stock head unit? Also what is the impedance of your speakers, you can give us the model number, or look at the back of the speaker, there will be a number 2 or 4 next to a funny looking headphone shape. If it is 2 and you are using the stock HU to drive them, that is your problem.
 
well they are Infinity Kappa's, they say 4 OHMs but a buddy of mine who is a stereo nut said my problem is trying to power them all off my head unit is drawing to much power from it and causing the head unit to go into safe mode so as to not burn it up...He says i need to get an amp to run my speakers...Its been a couple days now and i can get my radio to work 85% of the time but i cant turn it up very load or else it will cut off and not come back on for a long time. So for now im living with barely hearing my music until i can pick up an amp to run my speakers.
 
Amp question....

Instead of sending the Infinity Kappa tweeters back because they are to big to fit in the stock mirror cap location up front, im going to custom install them in to the back doors. So now i will have a speaker and a tweeter in all 4 doors. What would be the best type of amp to get to run everything? I was figuring a 4 channel but for the tweeters do i just run the tweeter wires connected with the corresponding speakers doors when connecting to the amp? Any ideas will greatly help. Im not sure what is the best way to go for amping everything and and how many channels should i look for in an amp?
 
Ok i had stated 2 posts ago that my infinity kappa speakers where 4ohms but i was wrong, they are 2ohms as well as the tweeters. When looking in to amps to push these speakers should i be looking at the 2ohm ratings of the amps?

Also for a sub, i want to run a kicker L7 10" square sub, Should i get the 2 ohm model to match my speakers or does it matter? plus when choosing an amp for the sub should i go for a class D amp or could i go with a 2 channel bridged? my problem is space and mounting the amps, i wanna stick with the smallest amps i can find and all the class D amps are HUGE...any ideas of amps i should run to get great sound quality with loudness and good power to my sub for some bass?
 
So i decided to go with a Powerbass ASA1100.5x amp to run my door speakers and tweeters. Also once i have my custom fiberglass box built ill run my sub off the same amp as well. I also just picked up the kenwood sub enclosure setup that is made for the protege off of Dr.Sound today. im gonna setup and run this sub setup for a while until i am ready to tackle the fiberglass box setup. But hopefully next week ill be jamin out with my speakers working and running properly off my new amp and have a little bass pumpin through with the kenwood enclosure setup. Its a custom fit to make the kenwood setup work in a P5 and the how to on it is a little old with pics that dont work anymore so ill try to get some pics of my install just in case anybody needs them in the future. WISH ME LUCK!!!
 
so 2 nights ago i started working on my false floor for the rear hatchback area. Its going to hide my amp/s while still allowing me to keep all of my storage space. Ive got the wood frame done. Now im going to drill 1 1/4" holes even spaced down the sides of the 2x4's to allow for air flow and also give me a spot to run my wires to and from the amp. Later this week a buddy of mine, who works at a glass shop, is gonna grab me a piece of lexan or plexiglass...whichever he can get his hands on without having to charge me. We are gonna cut it to fit my wood frame as well as form to the curves of the hatch area to give a seamless look. After that we are going to cover it in a dark grey speaker box type carpet while leaving a rectangular cut out right above the amp so that it can be seen. I also left a space on the passenger side for when i have my custom fiberglass sub box built to use up the unusable space around the wheel well. Think its gonna look pretty damn good once i get it all done! plus i will only be losing MAYBE 10% of my trunk space which is a HUGE plus. Ill keep everyone posted with updates here in this thread as i get more done.

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I see very little feedback lol, but I like that false floor idea. I might have missed it, but do you have/are you getting an aftermarket head unit?

Side note: Hot damn, that amp is gorgeous! It's a much larger version of my ASA300.2!
 
I bought my P5 with an aftermarket kenwood head unit. I imagine its a couple years old but its a CD with aux input on the front. It will do fine for now but once i completely finish my stereo setup then im going to look into getting a double din with NAV and XM radio the whole 9 yards....but seeing as how im prolly gonna end up spending just as much on the double din as i will be for my entire stereo install....it will just have to wait untill the end lol
 
Side note: Hot damn, that amp is gorgeous! It's a much larger version of my ASA300.2!

lol thank you, it is a very beautiful and BIG amp. But i chose to go with 1 big 5 channel amp instead of 2 amps to run everything.
since my speakers and sub will be running of 2ohms, the ASA1100.5x offers 150watts x 4 to the speakers and 500watts x 1 to the sub...should do just fine for what i am after.
 
Just got done touching up my frame for the false floor. Drilled out some 1 3/8" holes all along the sides and the middle brace for air flow as well as a place to run my wires through and out. Later today im picking up me plexiglass from a buddy who works at a glass shop FREEBIE lol.
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Wow, that amp is no joke. I really like my powerbass sub and amp. If you don't have a sub yet I would recommend one of theirs. Good quality and good price!
 
ya im still debating on what sub im gonna go with. I can only fit one as its gonna be in a custom fiberglass box on the passenger side rear maximizing the space around the fender well. I know i can put a 10" MIGHT be able to squeeze a 12" depending on how much air space i can get out of the box.
 
the false floor is an awesome idea as well as the sub in the fender well space. i cant wait to see pictures of the finished product. i also only have 1 sub and it does the job great.
 
The P5 honestly doesn't need more than a proper 10" sealed or ported. 500w RMS gives you a lot to play with, but you don't want to overpower something. You could try 2 of these to save space: http://powerbassusa.com/s-10t-s-10td-thin-mount-10-subwoofer. I'm using a S-104Dx in a sealed box and it adds the perfect amount of bass without wiring my speakers to an amp. You will probably need to look into a sub with a lot of excursion. A JL 10W7 is most likely out of the question, but something that can move like that would nicely complement your speakers lol
 
The pancake subs are nice but i should have no problem with being able to fit a regular size 10" and that will give me more options. I might go with a Memphis Audio sub seeing as how thats the subs sold at the stereo shop doing the box and they are known to pound!! but im still open to options.
 
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