New Owner, blacked out 06 MS6

[Jonota]

Hey guys, trolled a bit and decided to jump in and say hi. Just bought an 06 MS6 GT, black/grey exterior, all black interior. Mods appear to be CAI, catback(or more) exhaust, short throw, and some upper dash mount gauges. I always join the forums for the cars I buy, but have had a couple issues already to investigate before I take it to the dealer.

Have had intermittent CEL, first one turned off when I tightened the gas cap, second one came on this morning, haven't messed with anything yet. While it was on this morning, briefly tried a highway downshift to 3rd, and the engine cutout... I of course backed off of it and didn't have any kind of repeat.

Also appears to have the BOV/Bypass Valve leaking... can hear two distinct sounds from the turbo (suction) and another sound (discharging), and the boost gauge usually reads ~11psig instead of the expect ~16. I'm already liking this car alot, even though I gave up an 02 Corvette for it... just want to get these issues out of the way. I'm still under factory warranty, but don't trust dealers unless I already have some information available to me. The BOV I plan on replacing soon, but will be on a budget and a $300-400 one is probably out of the question... seen some on ebay for ~$200 that I will go for unless there are objections from the knowledgeable. Will be getting the codes read w/ OBD2 scanner as soon as possible.

I'm glad to be here, hopefully my experiences as both a mechanic and a warranty abuser will come in handy.

Jon

 

[vrspeedemon]

Welcome to the forum, post pics when you get a chance.
when you say black/grey exterior....did you buy the two-tone one that was on ebay?

as far as a bov/bpv....the forge can be had for around $100-$150 and is a good piece if you don't mind the "ching" sound. I believe the are also coming out or have already come out with a non "ching" bpv for around the same price.
A cheaper option is to get a 1gdsm bpv and mod to fit.

and as far as i know the OBD2 scanner won't work, this car in CANBUS just an FYI.

Get a Dashhawk, you can read and clear codes with that, and in my opinion should be the first thing anybody buys for this car as you can monitor multiple parameters...definately worth the $200-$250 they go for.

 

[zinger002]

or spend the extra 300 and get an access port that will also add power as well as read and clear codes.

 

[vrspeedemon]

or spend the extra 300 and get an access port that will also add power as well as read and clear codes.

i didn't realize you could read and clear codes with the AP...awesome.

OP, buy my dashhawk when I get my AP in

 

[Jonota]

I'd love more info on the forge product. What do you mean by "ching" sound? I have heard what I would call chirps, whooshes, and pops from diff blow off valves... but never a ching. Any videos out there?

Can't spend a ton of money right now on it, so most likely getting it read is as far as I will be able to go. Plus, I'm opposed to outside tuning, unless it is custom: I do computer tuning myself on a wide range of vehicles, and have found more often than not "packaged" tunes are mostly hype (particularly in Domestic V8 world). May be interested in a used unit

I'll get some pics up in the next day: Believe the previous owner may even be know. I have seen very few w/ stock rims blacked out.

Jon

 

[coyfish]

I'd love more info on the forge product. What do you mean by "ching" sound? I have heard what I would call chirps, whooshes, and pops from diff blow off valves... but never a ching. Any videos out there?

Can't spend a ton of money right now on it, so most likely getting it read is as far as I will be able to go. Plus, I'm opposed to outside tuning, unless it is custom: I do computer tuning myself on a wide range of vehicles, and have found more often than not "packaged" tunes are mostly hype (particularly in Domestic V8 world). May be interested in a used unit

I'll get some pics up in the next day: Believe the previous owner may even be know. I have seen very few w/ stock rims blacked out.

Jon

JUst youtoube search mazdaspeed 3 or 6 forge bpv. It is probably the most popular bpv because its easy to use, simple, cheap, and hassle free.

First thing to understand is the difference between a bpv and a BOV. Our cars are meant to run bpv which recirculates the air instead of venting it out. Difference in sound is a SSCHHHH sound instead of a birdy whistle that you probably have heard on fast and the furious movie.

Before you even think about buying an aftermarket bpv I would learn about how dealers are with mods. Some dealers will void your warranty if they just smell a bpv. Others will work on your car with full bolt ons. You bought your car already modded but just something to think about. I would never take my car to any dealer modded. I can't afford to risk my warranty if something bad happens.

 

[Speedkid]

Whats up welcome to the forums.

 

[VRMS6]

If you have a BOV thats leaking that may be causing your check engine light as the MAF readings may be off.... You may want to invest in a stock BOV for the car other than sound a aftermarket one really doesnt do much unless your running crazy HP...

 

[Jonota]

...First thing to understand is the difference between a bpv and a BOV. Our cars are meant to run bpv which recirculates the air instead of venting it out. Difference in sound is a SSCHHHH sound instead of a birdy whistle that you probably have heard on fast and the furious movie.

Before you even think about buying an aftermarket bpv I would learn about how dealers are with mods. Some dealers will void your warranty if they just smell a bpv. Others will work on your car with full bolt ons. You bought your car already modded but just something to think about. I would never take my car to any dealer modded. I can't afford to risk my warranty if something bad happens.

I know the difference, as it has a major impact on tuning. A bypass valve (bpv) is needed on "suck through" MAF applications because the air has already been "counted". I just use the terms interchangeably, since their major purpose is the same.

I'm fully armed with the appropriate legislation stating a dealer can't deny my warranty based on aftermarket parts... the dealer can bring it on. I've been down that path before, with mixed results, but usually on the positive side. Can't/won't replace what I have already on it so I at least have to get them to deal with that.

I'll def be looking into the forge valve. Just need some more time. Working 12 hr days, 4 on 1 off right now...

Jon

 

[tunersteve]

Jon, take some pics of your engine bay and post them here, and we'll get to the bottom of what you're running with. Same with the car in general.

And yes, you're right about the dealer and the BOV/BPV. I recommend going back as close to stock as possible for dealer visits, but it's your call. The burden of proof is on the dealer to show you have something causing a problem, but don't walk in with a sign saying you're modded. Just get to know the SM and build a good rapport with them and stick with them and you shouldn't have trouble.

Welcome to the forums as well.

 

[Jonota]

Got the codes read (after it cleared again of course), P0421 Warm Up Catalyst. Cleared and hasn't come back on. This lead me to check the car out a little more: it has a test pipe and full "catless"-back exhaust. Perhaps explains the excessive exhaust noise .

Thinking of pulling the plugs to check them out. Check engine has stayed out, surprisingly, so I'm assuming theirs a simulator on the downstream O2 sensor.

Still only seeing 11psi max boost, definitely think the bypass valve is leaking. Going to take it apart and see if I can free it up, will probably be buying forge sometime soon. Followed boost tubing, no obstructions.

A/F gauge doesn't seem to respond, but couldn't find it's connections in the engine bay without taking things apart (didn't have time). It wanders occasionally, so I'm thinking bad connection to the O2. Not too concerned with it, as a wideband will probably be replacing it. The last gauge is an oil temp, that never responds at all.... not sure why they chose oil temp... I would prefer an EGT/pyro.

I was wondering how interested people are in "used" aftermarket. I don't want the test pipe, and REALLY don't like the EXTREMELY short throw shifter that someone installed. Think someone would trade me their stock equipment?

 

[tunersteve]

I think you can get rid of anything you don't want on the car. Just throw it on the for sale forum and you should have no trouble.

As for the test pipe, odds are you may have a downpipe, not a test pipe. Although the TP eliminates the 2nd cat, there's no O2 sensor that will be affected by that downstream. There is another cat and O2 sensor in the downpipe, and that may be catless, explaining the obnoxious noise and CEL. Again, without pics, it's hard to know exactly what you're working with.

 

[vrspeedemon]

I may be interested in the shortshifter if it is the TWM, but I wouldn't be able to trade my stock stuff.
Once you commit to selling post it up properly in the for sale section and give me a heads up.

 

[Jonota]

I think you can get rid of anything you don't want on the car. Just throw it on the for sale forum and you should have no trouble.

As for the test pipe, odds are you may have a downpipe, not a test pipe. Although the TP eliminates the 2nd cat, there's no O2 sensor that will be affected by that downstream. There is another cat and O2 sensor in the downpipe, and that may be catless, explaining the obnoxious noise and CEL. Again, without pics, it's hard to know exactly what you're working with.

Looking from turbo outlet, down to where it connects under the body, there is an upper O2 sensor connection, then smooth pipe to lower bend, and another (what appears to be) O2 sensor connection.

Following the bend, there is a flexible section, and no other sensors. Are these cars not equipped with the "after-cat" catalyst efficiency O2? If not, guesses on the second sensor in the "downpipe"? I will put pics up as soon as possible, but work schedule and being in middle of move don't help me out much.

 

[tunersteve]

Looking from turbo outlet, down to where it connects under the body, there is an upper O2 sensor connection, then smooth pipe to lower bend, and another (what appears to be) O2 sensor connection.

Following the bend, there is a flexible section, and no other sensors. Are these cars not equipped with the "after-cat" catalyst efficiency O2? If not, guesses on the second sensor in the "downpipe"? I will put pics up as soon as possible, but work schedule and being in middle of move don't help me out much.

That sounds normal. If you look on the outlet before where the DP bends, you may see a manufacturer logo if its not the stock DP. there are no O2 sensors after the DP.

 

[Jonota]

couple pics..

Here are a couple pics.... she's dirty though. Get some underbody's on Sun