New Mazda5 owner, general Mazda questions

Greetings.
I just bought a 2013 mazda5 touring. It has the L4 engine. I bought this year specifically because this was one of the best years and I’m familiar with the engine, I had the 2.3 Duratec in a Ford ranger. I have some general questions as a new Mazda owner.

The van has 67k miles and has been driven in the city, probably lots of stop and go driving. Otherwise it’s in pretty good shape but has lots of bumps and bruises from city life. Mostly cosmetic scratches on the wheels and beat up scratched rear bumper. The interior is fairly clean and worn exactly like how you would expect for the year and mileage.
The van came with mazda racks but I don’t have the keys. Can I replace all the rack cores by drilling them out? Where can I buy them? Would it be easier to order the keys from using the four digit number on the lock core?

The 2 key fobs work, electronically and mechanically. But the switchblade style key fob is floppy and worn out. Can I purchase new fob housings without buying the electronics? I understand a new key fob is $90 Unprogrammed.

Seems like all of the periodic maintenance has been completed on the van. I am very good on maintenance and I will be replacing the transmission fluid in the near future. Is there anything else I should be servicing on this van with the L4 engine and transmission?

Engine and transmission runs well and drives smooth, no apparent leaks and fluids look fine, proper color etc. Seems like there’s some kind of engine vibration when it’s in drive and foot is on the brake. I gather this is a common mazda problem. Anyway to easily fix?

Also seems like an average mild amount of rust for living in the Mid East coast all its life. Mainly on steering parts, wheel components etc. I am considering paying for undercoating.

The exhaust has a surprising amount of rust but does not leak. It could be mostly surface rust.

Where is a good place to buy factory match spray paint?

There’s a pretty bad wheel shake at 60 mph. I’ll be taking it in for an alignment and wheel balance maybe next week. I plan on keeping this mazda for the next 5 years minimum. So I’m considering doing any and all maintenance you all recommend. I’ll probably replace the plugs in the spring with NGK irodium plugs near spring. Engine air filter has been changed in the last few thousand miles, so there’s lots of indications they took decent care of it.

I appreciate the responses
 
The 2 key fobs work, electronically and mechanically. But the switchblade style key fob is floppy and worn out. Can I purchase new fob housings without buying the electronics? I understand a new key fob is $90 Unprogrammed.
Yes, it's cheap and relatively easy to do.
I got mine here. It's a fob case without an immobilizer chip and any electronics. Just the plastic shell with the key blade. You can also find similar fob cases on amazon.
I swapped old keys (blade + chip + electronics boards) and can definitely tell it works great.

If you want to go this way, here are some tips:
When disassembling old fobs, ensure you don't forget to take out the electronic chip. It's a small piece located near the blade's base. It's kind of glued in there, so, I used side cutters to carefully cut it out of the old fob. Then, push out the metal pin from the fob base metal piece and reassemble it in the new case.

Also, check out this post, in case you want to make a spare key, just in case. I think you can find a blank fob with the chip on Aliexpress, just make sure you select the correct frequency.
 
Seems like all of the periodic maintenance has been completed on the van. I am very good on maintenance and I will be replacing the transmission fluid in the near future. Is there anything else I should be servicing on this van with the L4 engine and transmission?
Just the standard: oil, ATF, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant.

Engine and transmission runs well and drives smooth, no apparent leaks and fluids look fine, proper color etc. Seems like there’s some kind of engine vibration when it’s in drive and foot is on the brake. I gather this is a common mazda problem. Anyway to easily fix?
This probably is kind of normal for this car, but you can also try replacing engine mounts. It's a relatively easy job, check this post. Probably, you should change the engine mounts.

There’s a pretty bad wheel shake at 60 mph. I’ll be taking it in for an alignment and wheel balance maybe next week.
From my experience, both 1st gen and 2nd gen (same as yours) Mazda 5 I drive had problems with wheels shaking caused by warped rotors. I would check them as well.

Spark plugs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Better do it earlier than later.

Also, a cheap and easy job to do is cleaning the throttle body (gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)), and cleaning the MAF sensor.
 
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18 Mazda CX5 AW
The van came with mazda racks but I don’t have the keys. Can I replace all the rack cores by drilling them out? Where can I buy them? Would it be easier to order the keys from using the four digit number on the lock core?

Seems like there’s some kind of engine vibration when it’s in drive and foot is on the brake. I gather this is a common mazda problem. Anyway to easily fix?

Also seems like an average mild amount of rust for living in the Mid East coast all its life. Mainly on steering parts, wheel components etc. I am considering paying for undercoating.

Racks- see if you can order replacement keys.

Braking vibration- put new rotors and pads on.

Rust and undercoat- do not use any asphalt/tar(ziebart) or rubberized(rhino bedliner, flexseal, etc) as they'll trap rust and water in and rust out from the inside.

Get yourself some Fluidfilm spray or buckets(if you have a sprayer) and spray it on yourself. Use a hose to get into holes/crevices. Although it's supposed to be nontoxic, wear a respirator and safety glasses. Fluidfilm will soak/seep into the rust and prevent it from rusting further while forming a protective waxy like layer to prevent further salt/water corrosion. If not DIY, find someone to Fluidfilm it for you.
Cost
DIY $50-$80,
Garage shop $120 to $200

Also dont spray the exhaust or brake part's/hoses. Do spray underside, crevices, in holes, rockers, wheel wells, etc.
Coat every fall/winter and then stay away from auto car wash and underside wash until spring.
Only wash the car body during winter. Fluidfilm every year or two years max.
 
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Ok. So thanks for the responses. I actually ordered some key shells I found on Amazon. Out of all of the random ones on there and the prices were all over for what appeared to be the same thing. Someone posted a photo review and in the photo the manufacturing marks and numbers were identical. So I expect little trouble. The one key I figured out to disassemble 100%. I wanted to make another door key to hide somewhere on the vehicle. Of course it doesn’t work in the ignition but I’m going to check out this immobilized bypass.

I just sold a Toyota with high miles that had the proximity unlocking and push button start. I was spoiled. Now I have to actually get my keys out of my pocket. I would rather have the small regular key that works with the diy immobilizer. The switchblade style key is annoying and fiddly.

The brakes are not the problem on the shaking. It’s the wheel when just driving straight going about 60mph. The brakes and rotors seem fine.

I will have the shop check the engine mounts really well. I’m taking it in for an inspection tomorrow.

Also getting an alignment and whee balance, so I’ll see if that is the problem. I’ll check out getting some fluid film. I’ll see what it costs to rent an airless for the day from Home Depot. I might see if I can find a shop to do it.

Doing a bit of research on the number that was on the lock tumbler turns out it’s a standard Thule key and I ordered two already cut for $7.

Thanks again for all the great responses and I will follow up on each link you left.
 
One more thing. Where is everyone buying their mazda parts? I need this cover for the wiper arm nut. Also I’m going to need the key fob logo as they shattered as I tried to pry them from the old fobs. I was wondering if I can get them there too.
 

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One more thing. Where is everyone buying their mazda parts? I need this cover for the wiper arm nut. Also I’m going to need the key fob logo as they shattered as I tried to pry them from the old fobs. I was wondering if I can get them there too.
Personally, I use mazda-parts.com for parts and fitment lookup, and then I search it on eBay, amazon, Aliexpress and such.
Most of such bibs and bobs I sourced at local pick-n-pulls.

So, the wiper arm cap can be found here (scroll down and expand to confirm fitment) and, for example, can be purchased https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) or https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned).

The key fob logo can be purchased https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned). For some reason, many such listings end up getting banned as "fake" or "counterfeit" ones.
 
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18 Mazda CX5 AW
Ok. So thanks for the responses. I actually ordered some key shells I found on Amazon. Out of all of the random ones on there and the prices were all over for what appeared to be the same thing. Someone posted a photo review and in the photo the manufacturing marks and numbers were identical. So I expect little trouble. The one key I figured out to disassemble 100%. I wanted to make another door key to hide somewhere on the vehicle. Of course it doesn’t work in the ignition but I’m going to check out this immobilized bypass.

I just sold a Toyota with high miles that had the proximity unlocking and push button start. I was spoiled. Now I have to actually get my keys out of my pocket. I would rather have the small regular key that works with the diy immobilizer. The switchblade style key is annoying and fiddly.

The brakes are not the problem on the shaking. It’s the wheel when just driving straight going about 60mph. The brakes and rotors seem fine.

I will have the shop check the engine mounts really well. I’m taking it in for an inspection tomorrow.

Also getting an alignment and whee balance, so I’ll see if that is the problem. I’ll check out getting some fluid film. I’ll see what it costs to rent an airless for the day from Home Depot. I might see if I can find a shop to do it.

Doing a bit of research on the number that was on the lock tumbler turns out it’s a standard Thule key and I ordered two already cut for $7.

Thanks again for all the great responses and I will follow up on each link you left.

Also, mixed opinions on whether to use rust converter prior to Fluidfilm.

I did this once(used rust converter then week later Fluidfilm) but based on what i've learned since, imo, better to Fluid film. Not all rust converters work well or they harden the outer layer of rust only which allows continue rusting underneath and then flakes off leaving area exposed.

Fluidfilm on by itself at least soaks in thus inhibiting the rust process.

Do your research but imo, just Fluidfilm.
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
While I absolutely love our MZ5, it's loud as hell. Mazda put exactly zero sound deadening in our vans. Literally none. I ripped my interior out (it's quite easy, no lie, and put my own down. Made a GIGANTIC difference in ride quality.
 
While I absolutely love our MZ5, it's loud as hell. Mazda put exactly zero sound deadening in our vans. Literally none. I ripped my interior out (it's quite easy, no lie, and put my own down. Made a GIGANTIC difference in ride quality.
Wait. So you ripped out all the interior and basically removed the seats? I would like to see a picture of this. This is my plan when this van gets older and higher miles. The seats take up so much space.
 
So I got the state inspection. Mechanic said I got a good vehicle, didn’t see anything wrong at all. I had to get new wipers and I have to get the smallest chip repaired tomorrow, it’s about 1/8” in size and not in the drivers view. Then the inspection can be signed off as the vehicle was from out of state. Only minor surface rust on the steel steering parts, less rust than I thought. The entire exhaust has surface rust though, more than I expected. Maybe a new exhaust is in the few next years.

Mechanic said there was no indication any of the motor mounts were bad, they all appeared to be in great shape no leaks on the engine or transmission. I’m happy even though I think I paid a tad more than I should have but it was in the color I wanted and had all the accessories I needed.
 
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18 Mazda CX5 AW
So I got the state inspection. Mechanic said I got a good vehicle, didn’t see anything wrong at all. I had to get new wipers and I have to get the smallest chip repaired tomorrow, it’s about 1/8” in size and not in the drivers view. Then the inspection can be signed off as the vehicle was from out of state. Only minor surface rust on the steel steering parts, less rust than I thought. The entire exhaust has surface rust though, more than I expected. Maybe a new exhaust is in the few next years.

Mechanic said there was no indication any of the motor mounts were bad, they all appeared to be in great shape no leaks on the engine or transmission. I’m happy even though I think I paid a tad more than I should have but it was in the color I wanted and had all the accessories I needed.
Nice! Not bad deal for 10 yr old vehicle.

What states was it shipped from and where us it now?

You should definitely Fluidfilm it if you want it to last.

This is about the point that rust will really accelerates. Any manufacturer rust inhibitors will finally wear off if not already gone.

my experience with some of my vehicles so far in north rust belt:
1.Toyota : ziebart asphalt undercoat. Cost in 1990- over $200.
Car lasted 12 + years/over 200,000 miles then sold. Solid frame and clean engine. They ran it over 3 more years.
*Had been told to do initial coat on new car and avoid any touchup reapplications that would seal in salt/rust.
2.Ford- told by a dealer sales that it had some new fangled rust inhibitors and didnt need undercoat. No undercoating.
Engine still good but frame completely rusted thru @13/14 years mark. Worst rust @ rockers, rear door panels and rear spring seat/housing area and rear control arms.
3. Mazda- Fluid film cost $50 DIY.
fluid film now in 2nd year /2nd application on a used 5 year old vehicle. Working great. Any surface rust is completely coated in FF solvent.
Hoping to last for over 15 years with no detrimental rust.
*Best part is FF can be applied on used vehicle and overtop existing rust and can be done DIY or by local mechanic unlike other coatings.
 
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Good to know. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely explore getting the fluidfilm applied. I’m off to hopefully transfer the plates to it today after I get the safety things signed off and then maybe schedule a tire balance as there’s a wheel vibration/shake at 60mph and I that’s annoying because that’s the speed I usually drive.

I’m going to post some prices I get for the fluid film. The glass repair prices were all over the place. Safe lite wanted $165 to repair this 1/8 chip on the front windshield. I ended up going with a smaller company that only wants to charge $65. (Correction, I get to the glass place today and now they are telling me $85 for the glass chip repair. Whatever, I need it done but I’m not made of money.)
 
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South Carolina
:
12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Mechanic said there was no indication any of the motor mounts were bad, they all appeared to be in great shape no leaks on the engine or transmission.

Keep an eye on them anyway. Every time you get gas, stick your finger into the passenger side motor mount and press on it. When it pops, (and I promise you it will!) change all three mounts.
 
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18 Mazda CX5 AW
Good to know. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely explore getting the fluidfilm applied. I’m off to hopefully transfer the plates to it today after I get the safety things signed off and then maybe schedule a tire balance as there’s a wheel vibration/shake at 60mph and I that’s annoying because that’s the speed I usually drive.

I’m going to post some prices I get for the fluid film. The glass repair prices were all over the place. Safe lite wanted $165 to repair this 1/8 chip on the front windshield. I ended up going with a smaller company that only wants to charge $65.
Keep an eye on them anyway. Every time you get gas, stick your finger into the passenger side motor mount and press on it. When it pops, (and I promise you it will!) change all three mounts.
Just don't eat too many burritos. That'll be alot of finger popping.
 
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18 Mazda CX5 AW
Good to know. Thanks for the advice. I will definitely explore getting the fluidfilm applied. I’m off to hopefully transfer the plates to it today after I get the safety things signed off and then maybe schedule a tire balance as there’s a wheel vibration/shake at 60mph and I that’s annoying because that’s the speed I usually drive.

I’m going to post some prices I get for the fluid film. The glass repair prices were all over the place. Safe lite wanted $165 to repair this 1/8 chip on the front windshield. I ended up going with a smaller company that only wants to charge $65.
DIY cost
1 gallon FF $50
6 spray cans FF $70

Vehicle with underbody panels:
They spray, leave panels on and sprays around $100 to $120
They spray , take panels off and on $150 to $200

Vehicle no underbody panels:
They spray $120 to $150

Nice thing with DIY is you can take your time and get in all the crevices/holes.

Like anything else, some shops may do a complete job and others may just spray the surfaces.

You shouldn't pay over $200.

EDIT:

They say it's nontoxic. They say that about everything until 30 years later... Wear PPE, don't need tyvek suit but at least goggles and respirator(or at very minimum an N95 mask). You can get quality 3M respirators online for reasonable $$.
 
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Update. I just got back from a trip in my new to me mazda 5. The average fuel consumption was a solid 29 mpg when I got back home. I think I’m getting 26.5 around town before I left for the trip. That was mountains, snow and highway. Is anyone else getting this good of fuel mileage?

I have a bad steering wheel shake at about 60mph. I’m getting an alignment this week and hopefully straighten it out. Any other ways to improve the fuel mileage more? Other than the hypermiling tricks I think I’m maxed out. Im not about to remove the interior yet.

However it seems the engine gets the best fuel mileage while it’s purring along on flat about 60 mph. This is the automatic transmission. I’m happy at 29 mpg. For such a large vehicle that’s incredible fuel consumption. My old ford ranger 2x4 standard with the 2.3 duratec got about 28.5 combined.
 
Well I got the alignment today and atleast two wheels are completely bent. They let me look at each of them as they were on the balancer. That’s where my wheel shake was coming from. Any suggestions on where to buy some stock rims? Or a place where I can just get aftermarket rims? I see on the Mazda parts website they want about $700 per wheel. Elsewhere I see them for around $250 each. Anyone have some rims laying around they want to sell?