New HKS SSQV installed and want feed back

bman2033

Member
:
2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Hey all,

been a while since I posted anything on here cause I have done nothing to my car and was going to drive it stock for a while. Anyhow I came accross a perfect condition CP-E mazdaspeed 3 HKS SSQV kit that retails for I think $310 and I got it for $150, the guy was a cool guy and actually installed it for me since it only take 5 minutes to install. The way he installed it was VTA and man oh man does it sound cool. But I have noticed that after shifts it kinda bogs and my friend with a 240sx was following me home and he said that I had lots of black smoke when we were flooring it. Anyhow the kit came with the recirculation piece so I think I am going to install that on the HKS tomorrow. Anyone else still think the sound is nice even while in recirculation? And also should I reset the ecu for any reason? The guy that owned it before me said that he had it VTA and had no problems on his speed 6 he only had it on their for a few months but just wanted to see what you guys thought.

Just kind of excited about it since when I bought my car used at 28,000 miles it came with the MS CAI and that has been my only mod/upgrade.
 
Yeah... these cars are not meant to run in VTA. There are countless threads on it. Should still sound ok in recirc. Black smoke is probably because the car runs pig rich hence the black smoke. White smoke is what you don't want. That could indicate a failed turbo seal and bad pcv system.
 
yep I can remember my uncle asking me if I knew the difference between a car that blew white or black smoke out the exhaust, and he said that white is oil and black is gas. It stuck with me ever since. but yea it was fun having the new bov and seeing people do the what the **** was that turn when i blow it off by their car. but for only my second mod I got it for a great deal and I want my car to run strong so I will be doing recirc tomorrow.
 
Yep. Run it recirc. You engine will love you for itl

BTW: Blue smoke is oil (like broken piston rings, excessive cylinder wear, worn valve guides, etc) black smoke is excess fuel (like pig rich turbo or like burnt intake valves), and white smoke is water (like normal start up condensation, or like a cracked cylinder head letting water into the combustion chamber from the cylinder head water jackets, etc).
 
Last edited:
so i switched mine to recirculate today and had a couple of questions.

1. The hose the you plug the nose from the hks into is a little crimped, not all the way but a little and it seemed that it was in the best postion.
2. In conjunction with the nose to the recirculation hose is the hose on the other end of the hks, when I closed my hood the first time it ended up breaking the line so I twisted the bov so the little hose would clear the hood but that is what made the recirculated hose a little crimped.
3. I also notice the difference in the way it sounded from VTA to recirc. and it did get really quite, but I am noticing that it has a slight fluttering sound instead and the flutter only happens twice right after each other. ( I press clutch in to shift and the hks makes a pfft pfffffffft if that makes any sense. short then long pfffffffffft or woosh or whatever.

but I am wondering if that is kinda of normal and can someone send a pic of which way theres is mounted? and is there a way to make the little hose that goes into the back be completely below the hood or use a elbow tube of some sort. and any way not to have the recirc. hose crimmped??

thanks in advance
 
on mine I had to unbolt the back of the bov and re-position where the vacuum line was so it was low and out of the way. As for the recirc tube there is a way to position the stock one so that it doesnt crimp or bend. just rotate and see how it looks
 
so when you say unbolt the back of the BOV are you talking about the allen screws on the back, and you can take the back part off and rotate it? cause I went to a friends house and I actually read the instructions from CP-E and it said to flip the recirculation tube so that the end that was on the stock BOV are now on the turbo inlet and to cut about an inch off the tube. So now there is no crimping, but the vacuum line does stick up a little but I dont think it is hitting anything right now when I close th hood. but if I can lower the inlet somehow I would feel more comfortable that it wont be hitting.
 
ya all those allen screws come off and it rotates where the vacuum line is positioned. just be careful because theres a spring back there so keep pressure on it when the last screws come out so it doesnt pop open. then just rotate it and bolt back up.
 
awesome, i will do this as soon as it stops raining, been raining forever........ oh and on other thing. When I did the reinstall to make the bov recirculating I unclamped the pipe that has the air sensor in it and I have heard about this air straightener that people said did not come with the MS CAI in the early years and I dont think I have one. How can I get one and can I get one for free since they are now giving them to us when we purchase a MS CAI. and just so I know I did not miss it where would it be located if it was installed in my CAI i would figure it would be right infront of where the air sensor is located. am I wrong? thanks again.
 
Im thinking of going all cobb like the cobb turbo inlet and then a cobb SRI dont know what the power difference is but eventually I am going to get a cobb AP for easy tuning. what do you think?
 
go for it, s*** while your at it just complete the system and do fmic/mani/TBE so the car breathes like it should hahaha j/k man. you will be happy with cobb intake and AP.
 
bpv

I'm running it in vta wit no cel and base map ap tune. My car is pretty heavily modded with bolt ons but I'm planning on getting a cujstom tune. Don't you think it would run fine after the tune
 

New Threads and Articles

Back