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Oversteer/understeer has nothing to do with keeping you out of the oncoming lane because roads have both right and left hand corners.

Quite right. I was just thinking of all the driving I do, oddly, I take a LOT more right corners than I do left.
 
Well I looked closer again at the headlights tonight when I left my work parking garage and I'm convinced that only the inside light turns. I kept a close eye on the outside light and I could not see it moving. The inside one was obvious. Perhaps different model years or maybe even software updates make a difference?
 
Sorry, but they both don't turn on my 2016. I had a friend turn the wheel. Only the one moves depending on which way you steer.

jjp

Well, they do on mine. I live out in a rural area, and its beyond obvious they're both moving. Mine is also a 2016. Try actually driving around in the dark for a real test. The system uses the vehicles speed along with other factors to help determine how much to move the lights.

And by dark I mean no light pollution.
 
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If I'm creeping up to my garage door I can clearly see only the inside (relative to wheel turn) light turns. At speed it still only looks like the inside light turns. I've driven this in a lot of night scenarios, including very twisty Hills nowhere near another light source. On some dark nights on deserted roads I've weaved back and forth and watched how they operate. Inside light turns out and then comes back to center and stays while the other light turns out after weaving in other direction. However it works it's wonderful as it lights around the curve but there is still light to the outside and no gap between them.
 
Hmm, I never thought about speed having something to do with it...maybe at low speed only one moves? Whatever it is I agree it works well whatever it's doing. Even when only one moves there isn't a gap so you actually get more lighted area, so I think that's good. Thanks everyone for your input. I'll stop being so nitpicky...
 
Hmm, I never thought about speed having something to do with it...maybe at low speed only one moves? Whatever it is I agree it works well whatever it's doing. Even when only one moves there isn't a gap so you actually get more lighted area, so I think that's good. Thanks everyone for your input. I'll stop being so nitpicky...

That's why I suggested a windy on-ramp at night because you're accelerating up to highway/freeway speeds.


"One of the most important factors in mitigating driver fatigue and increasing safety during night driving is providing a well-illuminated field of view. The Adaptive Front-lighting System (AFS) optimizes distribution of light from the headlights according to driving circumstances. Depending on vehicle speed and steering input, the system points the low-beams headlights in the direction the driver intends to travel."

http://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technology/safety/active_safety/afs/

(drinks)
 
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I've been trying to find some info on lowering with the i-Activesense and I haven't found much. However I did find this thread on another forum with two people that have lowered theirs with little downside. I might join there and see if I can get some more info...
http://forum.mazda6club.com/suspension-brakes/380521-i-activesense-warnings-about-lowering.html

Well that was a bust. I assumed from someone's signature that this was on a CX-5, but I should have known with it being on a 6 forum and all. Oops! My search continues...
 
That's why I suggested a windy on-ramp at night because you're accelerating up to highway/freeway speeds.


"One of the most important factors in mitigating driver fatigue and increasing safety during night driving is providing a well-illuminated field of view. The Adaptive Front-lighting System (AFS) optimizes distribution of light from the headlights according to driving circumstances. Depending on vehicle speed and steering input, the system points the low-beams headlights in the direction the driver intends to travel."

http://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technology/safety/active_safety/afs/

(drinks)

I just ran some errands and had the underlined text above on my mind. It doesn't specifically say NOT the high beams, it just mentions the low beams, obviously. But I tested my high beams and they act just like the lows. The inside light turns and outside stays put, for both low and high beams. Looks like two different systems. Maybe just programing?
 
Yup. I'm looking at the H&R's. I love the look of the Corksports but but I don't think I can sacrifice that much drivability. I'd love something more in the middle - around a 2.25" drop all around I think would be perfect. But my goal for this is to keep it very livable as a daily driver. I've had my fair share of cars slammed with crappy rides. I'll save that for my toy. This is my daily driver. I want something that is comfortable and reliable, but also separates itself a bit from the others on the road. So it'll be simple, subtle mods for me. But for now I'm loving it out of the box, so I'll keep it stock until I get bored.

Yes H&R are a good choice for performance and without introducing the considerations of corksport (imo too low for springs only) or coilover low. I had a set myself for about 2 years before going lower. Add a good rear sway bar to those as well and you get a big increase in cornering performance without a big sacrifice in departure/approach angle. I see you have AWD and you can get some good cornering/power on cornering (powerslide even on h&r + sway bar) out of this car when dropping a gear too.
 
When I test drove the salesman said only one moves. So who knows.

OK. I drive a lot of dark, narrow and twisty roads and, upon closer observation, have determined that only the inside headlight turns into the turn on my 2013. But it sounds like the newer models move both headlights at the same time in the same direction?

Those who want to play with this feature should know that maximum headlight articulation happens at slower speeds (37 mph is optimum).
 
OK. I drive a lot of dark, narrow and twisty roads and, upon closer observation, have determined that only the inside headlight turns into the turn on my 2013. But it sounds like the newer models move both headlights at the same time in the same direction?

Those who want to play with this feature should know that maximum headlight articulation happens at slower speeds (37 mph is optimum).

You know, I'm not so sure now either. I've seen videos that seem to showcase 1 or 2 lights moving. This page seems to indicate both lights move (and the youtube video confirms it). Without contacting Mazda I can't state definitely about my CX5, despite the fact I really thought I could see two lights moving during/after a really sharp turn.

afl.jpg


http://www.msmazda.com/blog/understanding-mazdas-adaptive-front-lighting-system/
 
At very slow speeds I'm positive only the inside light turns; I see it every night when I leave my work parking garage. I haven't had a chance to really test it at higher speeds (like an onramp). Although it kind of makes sense to me that only one would turn - it doesn't result in a gap between the lights so in fact you get more area illuminated that way.
 
So I've been driving this daily for the last few months now and a couple random questions/comments have come up:

1. How do I know if I have a 2016 or 2016.5? From what I understand the only difference is the way the standard equipment and options are packaged (more standard stuff with a bump up in price), correct? So I doubt it matters because I have all the options anyway, but I guess I'm just curious. The date on the door plate says 10/15.

2. What is this above the gear selector? i can't seem to move it but it must do something...
4-6-2016%2011-09-18%20AM_zpsybmrnrua.jpg


3. Has anyone tried to move / conceal one of the USB ports? Or even just run a wire from the port into the glove box (is there a way to get it there without drilling)? I'd much prefer to keep my iPod out of plain sight.

4. Last weekend I noticed that my windshield was cracked. A rock hit it up by the rearview mirror so the chip was hidden from my view in the drivers seat by the big cover for the sensors. It finally crept down into my vision but not until it grew to at least a foot long. :( So I need to get it replaced. I'm worried about them getting all the sensors correct after replacement. I've seen lots of threads here about replacements and it seems to be hit and miss. I have windshield coverage with my insurance so cost shouldn't be an issue. I was probably leaning towards Safelite because they've done a couple for me in the past with good results. Or is the dealer the best option?

5. We had a massive snowstorm here a couple weeks ago with almost 2' dropping in less than 12 hours. I had to go into work for a bit that morning but when I left around noon the roads were icy and the neighborhoods had very deep snow. I came to a couple realizations:
- The adaptive AWD is quite good (once I figured it out). It took some getting used to coming from the full-time symmetrical AWD of my WRX, but I got the hang of it pretty quickly. I could tell when it needed to be kicked in so I just put my foot down a bit to get the front wheels to slip, which engaged the rear, and I tore out of any pickle I encountered.
- The stock tires are not great in the snow. They were OK but a decent set of dedicated winter tires would go a long way.
- I doubt I'll be lowering the suspension. The extra ground clearance really came in handy and I think even being 1.5" lower would have introduced more problems than I want. I remembered why I bought a CUV to replace my lowered wagon in the first place!!! It's a rare occasion we get this much snow at once, but it sure is nice to know I can get home when it does happen.

6. Driving impressions - I have almost 5k miles on it already. It's mostly my daily commute (50 miles mixed highway and city) but I have had it in the mountains for some spirited driving as well. For the commute it's exactly what I wanted - fuel efficient, comfortable, and entertaining - no complaints. But it really came alive on the couple mountain blasts I had. Turn-in and mid-corner stability are fantastic. I had so much confidence with how planted it felt. The CX5 has an interesting dual-personality. It can be a boring econobox when you need it but still give you some excitement when the road opens up. But the lack of power just lets it down; I wanted to push it harder, but it was giving me all it had. Powering out of an apex felt like an exercise in futility. Ultimately I think a Mazdaspeed variant with slightly tighter and lower suspension and maybe 75hp more out of the box would really make this a world-beating, jack of all trades vehicle. But the reality is this does so much so well, you would likely sacrifice a lot of it in the pursuit of performance. If you want a sports car, go buy a sports car. Take this for what it is - a utility vehicle that can give you a grin when the you hit a winding road.

7. For me personally, I think I'm still just having a hard time separating this from my WRX wagon. That car did everything, so I thought. But the reality is it doesn't compare to the daily comfort, space and utility that my CX5 has. However the CX5 doesn't compare to the power of my wagon either. It's a trade-off that I consciously made that perhaps I'm just having a hard time coming to grips with. I need to take my own advice - if I want a sports car I should buy a sports car!

8. I continue to think that for the money, there isn't another car out there that offers this much of everything. The bang-for-the-buck factor is off the charts. It looks, feels and drives like a car $10k more expensive.
 
So I've been driving this daily for the last few months now and a couple random questions/comments have come up:

1. How do I know if I have a 2016 or 2016.5? From what I understand the only difference is the way the standard equipment and options are packaged (more standard stuff with a bump up in price), correct? So I doubt it matters because I have all the options anyway, but I guess I'm just curious. The date on the door plate says 10/15.

2. What is this above the gear selector? i can't seem to move it but it must do something...
4-6-2016%2011-09-18%20AM_zpsybmrnrua.jpg


3. Has anyone tried to move / conceal one of the USB ports? Or even just run a wire from the port into the glove box (is there a way to get it there without drilling)? I'd much prefer to keep my iPod out of plain sight.

4. Last weekend I noticed that my windshield was cracked. A rock hit it up by the rearview mirror so the chip was hidden from my view in the drivers seat by the big cover for the sensors. It finally crept down into my vision but not until it grew to at least a foot long. :( So I need to get it replaced. I'm worried about them getting all the sensors correct after replacement. I've seen lots of threads here about replacements and it seems to be hit and miss. I have windshield coverage with my insurance so cost shouldn't be an issue. I was probably leaning towards Safelite because they've done a couple for me in the past with good results. Or is the dealer the best option?

5. We had a massive snowstorm here a couple weeks ago with almost 2' dropping in less than 12 hours. I had to go into work for a bit that morning but when I left around noon the roads were icy and the neighborhoods had very deep snow. I came to a couple realizations:
- The adaptive AWD is quite good (once I figured it out). It took some getting used to coming from the full-time symmetrical AWD of my WRX, but I got the hang of it pretty quickly. I could tell when it needed to be kicked in so I just put my foot down a bit to get the front wheels to slip, which engaged the rear, and I tore out of any pickle I encountered.
- The stock tires are not great in the snow. They were OK but a decent set of dedicated winter tires would go a long way.
- I doubt I'll be lowering the suspension. The extra ground clearance really came in handy and I think even being 1.5" lower would have introduced more problems than I want. I remembered why I bought a CUV to replace my lowered wagon in the first place!!! It's a rare occasion we get this much snow at once, but it sure is nice to know I can get home when it does happen.

6. Driving impressions - I have almost 5k miles on it already. It's mostly my daily commute (50 miles mixed highway and city) but I have had it in the mountains for some spirited driving as well. For the commute it's exactly what I wanted - fuel efficient, comfortable, and entertaining - no complaints. But it really came alive on the couple mountain blasts I had. Turn-in and mid-corner stability are fantastic. I had so much confidence with how planted it felt. The CX5 has an interesting dual-personality. It can be a boring econobox when you need it but still give you some excitement when the road opens up. But the lack of power just lets it down; I wanted to push it harder, but it was giving me all it had. Powering out of an apex felt like an exercise in futility. Ultimately I think a Mazdaspeed variant with slightly tighter and lower suspension and maybe 75hp more out of the box would really make this a world-beating, jack of all trades vehicle. But the reality is this does so much so well, you would likely sacrifice a lot of it in the pursuit of performance. If you want a sports car, go buy a sports car. Take this for what it is - a utility vehicle that can give you a grin when the you hit a winding road.

7. For me personally, I think I'm still just having a hard time separating this from my WRX wagon. That car did everything, so I thought. But the reality is it doesn't compare to the daily comfort, space and utility that my CX5 has. However the CX5 doesn't compare to the power of my wagon either. It's a trade-off that I consciously made that perhaps I'm just having a hard time coming to grips with. I need to take my own advice - if I want a sports car I should buy a sports car!

8. I continue to think that for the money, there isn't another car out there that offers this much of everything. The bang-for-the-buck factor is off the charts. It looks, feels and drives like a car $10k more expensive.
1. Yours should be a 2016 with the assembly date 10/2015. The window sticker will say 2016.5, otherwise there is no way to tell. I believe 2016.5 should have 12/2015 assembly date or newer. If a Touring with cloth seats having the heated seat switch, that's 2016.5.

2. That's "Shift-Lock Override" location for your automatic transmission. Shift-lock override is for the situation that you can't move gear selector level out of "Park" position with proper shift procedure. You can open the small cover, press and hold the lock-release button hidden inside to shift out of the "Park". See page 4-50 of owner's manual for more details.

3. It's certainly possible. Don't think you need drilling.

4. "A rock hit it up by the rearview mirror". "A hail hit it up by the rearview mirror" and cracked my windshield too - this is exactly what happened on our CX-5 two weeks ago! The sensor area of CX-5 GT's windshield seems to be the weakest spot. Anything harder hits there, you'll have cracks developed from there! Many people have hairline cracks started from there, either by itself, or by rock or hail.
Mazda%2BCX-5%2BHail%2BDamage%2B-%2BWindshield_20160323_02.jpg


I still believe the windshield on our CX-5 is weak because:
I just got my windshield replaced today. According to CX-5 Service Manual, a protective sheet on rain sensor is supposed to be replaced when the sensor gets swapped. But nobody is bothering to do so. The radar sensor for SCBS can be swapped easily too. And don't go to Mazda dealer as they normally contract outside auto glass guy for the job. My windshield with Tech package is expensive, $666.25! Yours with additional radar sensors for SBC and MRCC, etc. would be even more expensive. My insurance paid only $110 for installation but the lowest I could find charges $200.

Make sure your crack is not caused by itself due to stress or your cracked windshield should be covered under new-car warranty.

...

8. If and only of CX-5 has memory set, Bose tweeters, rear AC vents, ... well just all of those features found on Mazda6 but missing on CX-5, then I'd agree bang-for-the-buck factor is off the charts!
 
Thanks for the response.

What would cause me to need to use the Shift Lock Override? Just a malfunction?

I will poke around under the dash to see if I can find any way to route the wire into my glove box.

And thanks for the heads-up on the windshield. I will give it a closer look but I'm pretty sure I remember hearing something hit it but I was shocked that I couldn't see where it hit - I bet it hit up above but I'll double-check.
 
... And thanks for the heads-up on the windshield. I will give it a closer look but I'm pretty sure I remember hearing something hit it but I was shocked that I couldn't see where it hit - I bet it hit up above but I'll double-check.
Double check your crack on your windshield. If you can't find any obvious hit mark, take it to your dealer and ask for warranty replacement. The hit sound you heard could be the initial cracking noise by the windshield itself. Several people here had stated that their cracked windshield, mostly started from sensor area, got replaced under warranty.

Take out glove compartment box following those videos showing cabin AC filter replacement which will make you a lot easier to poke around USB connector area.
 
It was definitely a rock:
4cdfff4f-d5b1-46a4-b99a-7cee7d2d0f0b_zpscqqu42m3.jpg


And I poked around where the USB jacks are and there doesn't seem to be anywhere to feed a wire back into the dash at all. The pocket is completely sealed so I think drilling may be my only option. :( Now the only question is how big of a deal it is to me...
 
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