New Cx5 Owner - Audio Upgrade Questions

insaneshams

Member
:
Mazda CX 5 Touring
I just got a brand new 2016.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring without the Bose upgrade. This came with the 7" screen, power sear and 6" speakers. I'm looking to possibly upgrade the speakers in my car and just have a few questions. From this forum, it seems like the infotainment is really glitchy, I have no problems so far but if I upgrade my speakers, will this void the warranty on any further infotainment issues?

Right now I'm looking to upgrade to the

Polk db651s 6.5" for the front and rear speakers
Infinity Reference x 3002 3.5" for the left and right dash speakers
a 4 channel amp Pioneer GM-A4604
Kicker 11HS8 hideaway 8" sub

I mainly listen to some chillstep and avicii, and I appreciate good vocals and instrumentals over a strong bass. Bass is good, but I'm not looking to blast music and rock the neighborhood.

I heard mixed reviews about the hideaway sub. Anyone have any further input? I'm trying to avoid modifications to my car and keep everything stealth-ed out. Does the power seat take up a lot of room where I can't hide any equipment underneath?

The parts right now I'm looking at around 650 pretax on crutch field. I was quoted a $425 installation fee from a local guy that operates out of his house, but has superb yelp, google and facebook ratings. The other shops by my area don't seem to do so well with the ratings.

Any thoughts before I jump into this?
 
Exactly like that, I have started myself. But after a year, I want more. I have Infinity Primus PR6500CS front and rear and they are good, but now I want more, so I will be upgrading soon to Focal speakers. I also have the 3.5" Polks in the dash as well.
I have also installed two Polk Audio amps under both seats(there is space, specially on the passenger side) and a shallow JL Audio sub in my spare wheel(wheel is the enclosure).
Just my 0.2 cents, to think about it. Later, you will want more.
 
Haha that's how most things start... By having just a little bit.
If I keep the sub in my spare, how easy is it to still use the spare if I need to.
 
I know the stock front door speakers are not that high quality, but they seems to be 9" that push out decent bass. So unless your new sub is located near the front row, you might miss some of the low when replacing it with 6.5". At least I noticed the severe lack of bass on the back row with the stock 5" speakers.

Regardless of what you will put in, would be nice to share a frequency response (just looking for incentive myself) :-)
 
Oh how I can be helpful here. I hope you are ready for some good info and suggestions.......

First off, know that changing the audio system will in NO WAY void your warranty unless some how you go extremely overboard, which it does not sound like your are planning to do.
Changing out the speakers or even the head unit should not void the warranty as everything is easily replaceable back to factory without much effort.
If your infotainment becomes glitchy, it is easy to go aftermarket which if you have the money for it up front will help you greatly.

That being said, let me go over a bit what you have now, what I think you are looking for, and what you can expect for something that is an upgrade.

The BOSE system consists of the following:
Dash 3.5": Your mid/tweeter combo
Dash ~3": Center Channel
Front Doors ~8": Midwoofer/Subwoofer combo
Rear Doors ~6.5": Mid Range rear fill
D-Pillars ~2": High range rear fill

The first note I would have is that just replacing the speakers without doing other things is a bad idea. The big decision you need to make first and foremost is:
1.Keep factory stereo or 2.Replace factory stereo

This will be your biggest determining factor for the rest of the build. If you want to keep it stealthy and factory as possible then I would assume you want to keep the factory headunit. That being said here is what youll need to do it correctly.

1. Some for of simple DSP or summing unit.
Hooking up amps directly to the BOSE amp will yield unwelcome results. There is a lot of audio engineering in the factory system. You need something to give a clean even signal to your aftermarket amps, whichever they may be. The Kicker Sum8 or an Audiocontrol unit is good for this. JBL made an MS-8 which is the best DIY easy to you auto-tuning DSP for the money if you can still get one.

2.Amps there amps you have listed are fine, but for simplicity I would go with a signal GOOD 5-Channel amp. It will make things much much easier in the long run and they are good at costs savings. There are many good choices. With your current idea, you effectively have 2 amps which complicates things.

3. Speakers you have 2 main choices. Currently you have Infinity 3.5" replacments for the dash, and 6.5" replacements for the doors.

This is fine but a few things to consider. For one over factory you are loosing a mid/sub and gaining 4 tweeters. This will affect your overall sound and for example that Kicker 8" you have may not be able to keep up.
If you chose instead to do a component set (6.5"-6.75" in door, 1-2" tweeter in dash) it would simplify things a bit.
The choice you have is still doable if you have the right amount of power and a good subwoofer to balance it out.
Rear speaker choice in coaxial is fine
You can leave the center channel and the rear tweet/mids alone, they are fill.

Subwoofer wise I do not know how much room is under the front seats to hide a Kicker hideaway, but here is what I would tell people on those when they asked me about them.
They are good for complimenting a factory system, but they really fall flat if you have aftermarket speakers and amps. Think about this, you are removing 2 factory 8" mid/subs and replacing it with 1 small sub. Chances are that you won't get the output you are hoping for. I am not saying you have to go huge, but for this kind of system the hideaway may not be your best bet. Plus having to wire a seperate amp in addition to your 4-channel is where extra wiring time and does not really pay off.

Personally, I would look into either a small sealed box, or possible a lay flat truck box/bazooka tube. Their output will be closed to what I thin you want. Plus with a 5-channel amp you can power most anything small with no issues. Pioneer makes a good down firing slim sub box that I think would do well for you and is fairly stealthy.

Install wise is very variable. Once you decide on what all you want to do, think about the timeframe it would take. I can tell you this, about $80/hr is a good rate for someone who is a reliable installer. While places like BestBuy may be more than that guy down the street, think about things like warranty, install parts, etc.

You don't need $300 wire for example, but chosing $50 wire is not worth cheaping that low on.

Also look at the install capabilities and how they would do things.

You car for speakers requires speaker brackets, are they going to make them or chose premade ones?

Are they going to install what you bring them without any questions to get it done? Or are they going to offer better advice and explain why the cost may be more.

Please feel free to post more questions, I love this stuff.
 
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Oh how I can be helpful here. I hope you are ready for some good info and suggestions.......

First off, know that changing the audio system will in NO WAY void your warranty unless some how you go extremely overboard, which it does not sound like your are planning to do.
Changing out the speakers or even the head unit should not void the warranty as everything is easily replaceable back to factory without much effort.
If your infotainment becomes glitchy, it is easy to go aftermarket which if you have the money for it up front will help you greatly.

That being said, let me go over a bit what you have now, what I think you are looking for, and what you can expect for something that is an upgrade.

The BOSE system consists of the following:
Dash 3.5": Your mid/tweeter combo
Dash ~3": Center Channel
Front Doors ~8": Midwoofer/Subwoofer combo
Rear Doors ~6.5": Mid Range rear fill
D-Pillars ~2": High range rear fill

The first note I would have is that just replacing the speakers without doing other things is a bad idea. The big decision you need to make first and foremost is:
1.Keep factory stereo or 2.Replace factory stereo

This will be your biggest determining factor for the rest of the build. If you want to keep it stealthy and factory as possible then I would assume you want to keep the factory headunit. That being said here is what youll need to do it correctly.

1. Some for of simple DSP or summing unit.
Hooking up amps directly to the BOSE amp will yield unwelcome results. There is a lot of audio engineering in the factory system. You need something to give a clean even signal to your aftermarket amps, whichever they may be. The Kicker Sum8 or an Audiocontrol unit is good for this.

2.Amps there amps you have listed are fine, but for simplicity I would go with a signal GOOD 5-Channel amp. It will make things much much easier in the long run and they are good at costs savings. There are many good choices. With your current idea, you effectively have 2 amps which complicates things.

3. Speakers you have 2 main choices. Currently you have Infinity 3.5" replacments for the dash, and 6.5" replacements for the doors.

This is fine but a few things to consider. For one over factory you are loosing a mid/sub and gaining 4 tweeters. This will affect your overall sound and for example that Kicker 8" you have may not be able to keep up.
If you chose instead to do a component set (6.5"-6.75" in door, 1-2" tweeter in dash) it would simplify things a bit.
The choice you have is still doable if you have the right amount of power and a good subwoofer to balance it out.
Rear speaker choice in coaxial is fine
You can leave the center channel and the rear tweet/mids alone, they are fill.

Subwoofer wise I do not know how much room is under the front seats to hide a Kicker hideaway, but here is what I would tell people on those when they asked me about them.
They are good for complimenting a factory system, but they really fall flat if you have aftermarket speakers and amps. Think about this, you are removing 2 factory 8" mid/subs and replacing it with 1 small sub. Chances are that you won't get the output you are hoping for. I am not saying you have to go huge, but for this kind of system the hideaway may not be your best bet. Plus having to wire a seperate amp in addition to your 4-channel is where extra wiring time and does not really pay off.

Personally, I would look into either a small sealed box, or possible a lay flat truck box/bazooka tube. Their output will be closed to what I thin you want. Plus with a 5-channel amp you can power most anything small with no issues. Pioneer makes a good down firing slim sub box that I think would do well for you and is fairly stealthy.

Install wise is very variable. Once you decide on what all you want to do, think about the timeframe it would take. I can tell you this, about $80/hr is a good rate for someone who is a reliable installer. While places like BestBuy may be more than that guy down the street, think about things like warranty, install parts, etc.

You don't need $300 wire for example, but chosing $50 wire is not worth cheaping that low on.

Also look at the install capabilities and how they would do things.

You car for speakers requires speaker brackets, are they going to make them or chose premade ones?

Are they going to install what you bring them without any questions to get it done? Or are they going to offer better advice and explain why the cost may be more.

Please feel free to post more questions, I love this stuff.

Thanks for the advice. For clarification, I do NOT have a bose system. I have a 6 speaker system in my car right now. With that in mind, do I really have 8" speakers by the front door? Threads before this state a 5 1/4" stock speakers. Based on what you said, a component system for the front with tweeters on the dash sound like a good idea. Should I stick with just coaxial 2 way speakers for the rear door or get component system also?

And I'm a little confused about the sub part. I understand that the kicker hideaway sub will probably not produce the best bass that I want. I should get a 5 channel amp with a bass tube?

As for installer, I'm not quite sure about best buy... yes they have a warranty but I have never heard a positive thing about them. The guy down the straight is a one man team, but as per reviews he offers solid work and his own lifetime warranty. You're right it might be better to go to a bigger shop around my area, but I am a little skeptical as they seem to just want money instead of providing quality service.
 
Here it is what I have done. It's not a nice setup, but it slams hard. I can remove everything and still use the spare.
It was very cheap, except the sub itself and easy to put together. MDF ~$12 from Home Depot, straps I had. The only specialty parts I needed is the 6" rubber and aluminum "washer", that I have machined myself.
Check from post #7:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123848260-Custom-Box-10-quot-JL-Audio-Sub
Here it is a sample: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B17P1WKnh15MRF9WYmZISDUxSHM/view
I realize, that it is a bad sample because of the phone recording(that rezonance, is not there in real life), but just to have an idea, on how it sounds.
Right now, I have 6 tweeters and it is not to much. I can lower the gain and adjust the EQ to a proper level. I have a Kenwood with 13 band EQ.
 
Thanks for the advice. For clarification, I do NOT have a bose system. I have a 6 speaker system in my car right now. With that in mind, do I really have 8" speakers by the front door? Threads before this state a 5 1/4" stock speakers. Based on what you said, a component system for the front with tweeters on the dash sound like a good idea. Should I stick with just coaxial 2 way speakers for the rear door or get component system also?

And I'm a little confused about the sub part. I understand that the kicker hideaway sub will probably not produce the best bass that I want. I should get a 5 channel amp with a bass tube?

As for installer, I'm not quite sure about best buy... yes they have a warranty but I have never heard a positive thing about them. The guy down the straight is a one man team, but as per reviews he offers solid work and his own lifetime warranty. You're right it might be better to go to a bigger shop around my area, but I am a little skeptical as they seem to just want money instead of providing quality service.

Thank you for the clarification. Not having the BOSE system makes things much easier.

The Non-BOSE system should consist of the following:
Front Dash: 3.5" midrange/tweet in dash
Front Door: Oversized ~5-6" speaker midrange/woofer (does not act as a sub)
Rear Doors: full range speaker

The headunit powers everything, and is probably 10-20 Watts RMS. Hooking a 4 channel amp into it can easily be done with a 4 channel hi-low line out converter or choosing an amp with a decent speaker level input.

Now you have a bit more wiggle room. The big decision between speakers comes in the fronts. The backs are find being coaxial, they are fill. For those chose whatever model is closest to your front speakers. 85% of what you "hear" comes from the front, the backs are just fill.

As far the fronts of 2 Coaxials versus 1 component set, it really depends on simplicity / versus overall output. Here is what I mean in options:

Front Options:

Option 1: Dash: 3.5" coaxial, Door: 6.5" Coaxial (this is the size that fits with a premade adapter you can easily buy)
This setup is going to perform best on a 4-channel amplifier. The factory radio or even a basic aftermarket don't have enough power to make this setup sound good. Also consider that your Ohm load may become to low for a radio alone. Overall, the sound level would probably be louder than the component approach. That being said you will have effectively 2 extra tweeters to keep in mind for your sub level choices. To keep things sounding even you would need a slightly bigger sub over the Kicker Hideway

Option 2: Dash: Component Tweeter, Door: Component woofer (same not above)
This setup is much simpler and leaves the greatest room for expansion. This setup can perform OK on radio power alone, but would be much better with some form of amp. If you truly want to go stealth, that make small 4-channel hidden amps (an example would be the Alpine KTP-455U) that are good for boosting radio power. The main problem here is that step, whether or not to go with an amp. You can always add one later if you need more volume/range.

There are two things to look out for in component speaker choices. Some have external crossovers, some have inline crossover. How the car should be wired now is that somewhere in the car the dash speaker is wired in parallel with the door woofer. This is good for speakers with in line crossovers (Alpine SPE-610C for example) as you can just wire the woofer in the door, and wire the tweeter in the dash easily.
If you choose one with a separate crossover, you have to find a point the vehicle to mount it and run whichever wire is connected to the tweeter, and the other connecting to the woofer. Coaxial speakers for example if you look at them have typically inductors/capacitors soldered on to the speaker, this serves the same purpose hence when you can get away with 2 coaxials if you choose.

Sub choice the Kicker hideaway is good if you go the amplified route, but it falls off quickly once you throw in a 4-channel. Luckily the fact that this is a CUV means you do not have to overcome a trunk. They also make larger self powered boxes if you wish which give a bit more. You do not need anything terribly large for this.

A 5-channel gives you the best of all worlds and gives you the most power to work with. Clarion makes a silly small 5-channel you could use which would work for the setups we spoke of.


Smaller shops are ok as long as they have a good warranty and give you the time to go over how they would do things and why. (For example why build a speaker adapter when you can buy them for like $12)

I worked for BestBuy for 8 years and I know why the bad reviews. There are some REALLY TALENTED installers at BestBuy buy that company will f#$% you over hard. A lot of folks loose confidence and just come in to do their job and nothing more. They are also really crunched for time and assistance as they are expected to install and be a sales floor person at the same time.

Let me know if you need anything else.
 
Thank you for the clarification. Not having the BOSE system makes things much easier.

The Non-BOSE system should consist of the following:
Front Dash: 3.5" midrange/tweet in dash
Front Door: Oversized ~5-6" speaker midrange/woofer (does not act as a sub)
Rear Doors: full range speaker

The headunit powers everything, and is probably 10-20 Watts RMS. Hooking a 4 channel amp into it can easily be done with a 4 channel hi-low line out converter or choosing an amp with a decent speaker level input.

Now you have a bit more wiggle room. The big decision between speakers comes in the fronts. The backs are find being coaxial, they are fill. For those chose whatever model is closest to your front speakers. 85% of what you "hear" comes from the front, the backs are just fill.

As far the fronts of 2 Coaxials versus 1 component set, it really depends on simplicity / versus overall output. Here is what I mean in options:

Front Options:

Option 1: Dash: 3.5" coaxial, Door: 6.5" Coaxial (this is the size that fits with a premade adapter you can easily buy)
This setup is going to perform best on a 4-channel amplifier. The factory radio or even a basic aftermarket don't have enough power to make this setup sound good. Also consider that your Ohm load may become to low for a radio alone. Overall, the sound level would probably be louder than the component approach. That being said you will have effectively 2 extra tweeters to keep in mind for your sub level choices. To keep things sounding even you would need a slightly bigger sub over the Kicker Hideway

Option 2: Dash: Component Tweeter, Door: Component woofer (same not above)
This setup is much simpler and leaves the greatest room for expansion. This setup can perform OK on radio power alone, but would be much better with some form of amp. If you truly want to go stealth, that make small 4-channel hidden amps (an example would be the Alpine KTP-455U) that are good for boosting radio power. The main problem here is that step, whether or not to go with an amp. You can always add one later if you need more volume/range.

There are two things to look out for in component speaker choices. Some have external crossovers, some have inline crossover. How the car should be wired now is that somewhere in the car the dash speaker is wired in parallel with the door woofer. This is good for speakers with in line crossovers (Alpine SPE-610C for example) as you can just wire the woofer in the door, and wire the tweeter in the dash easily.
If you choose one with a separate crossover, you have to find a point the vehicle to mount it and run whichever wire is connected to the tweeter, and the other connecting to the woofer. Coaxial speakers for example if you look at them have typically inductors/capacitors soldered on to the speaker, this serves the same purpose hence when you can get away with 2 coaxials if you choose.

Sub choice the Kicker hideaway is good if you go the amplified route, but it falls off quickly once you throw in a 4-channel. Luckily the fact that this is a CUV means you do not have to overcome a trunk. They also make larger self powered boxes if you wish which give a bit more. You do not need anything terribly large for this.

A 5-channel gives you the best of all worlds and gives you the most power to work with. Clarion makes a silly small 5-channel you could use which would work for the setups we spoke of.


Smaller shops are ok as long as they have a good warranty and give you the time to go over how they would do things and why. (For example why build a speaker adapter when you can buy them for like $12)

I worked for BestBuy for 8 years and I know why the bad reviews. There are some REALLY TALENTED installers at BestBuy buy that company will f#$% you over hard. A lot of folks loose confidence and just come in to do their job and nothing more. They are also really crunched for time and assistance as they are expected to install and be a sales floor person at the same time.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Thanks.

I went to a local shop the other day and was quoted 1249 for the following parts with installations.
Component door speakers
Dash Tweeter
Back door speakers
Amp and AudioControl Digital Processor
12" sub box in the trunk

All the guy said is that it comes with JBL speakers GTO series and he showed me the box. I didn't get the parts number for everything. Going back today to ask for the exact part specification before I think about it. Though 1249 seems really steep unless the products he offered were really high end
 
I know the stock front door speakers are not that high quality, but they seems to be 9" that push out decent bass. So unless your new sub is located near the front row, you might miss some of the low when replacing it with 6.5". At least I noticed the severe lack of bass on the back row with the stock 5" speakers.

Regardless of what you will put in, would be nice to share a frequency response (just looking for incentive myself) :-)

Quick update, just got my speaker upgrades today through a local shop and I am digging it.

JBL Component 609C in the front, tweeters in dash
JBL GX602 coaxial in the rear doors
JBL S2-12224SS Ported Enclosure sub
AudioControl LC6i
Kenwood Excelon X801 5 Channel Amp
Roadkill Sound Dampening Material

Total paid 1408 before taxes with parts and labor. It feels like I paid a steep price but I am digging what I paid for. The only problem I had with my shop was that they didn't use an adaptor mounting bracket. They cut the front door factory speakers out of the mount, effectively destroyed the factory speakers, and cut the factory mount to fit the new speaker. Slight dust in my car but nothing I'm too ocd about.

Sound wise is overall better than expected. Don't really enjoy a lot of bass but this bass is extremely clean and I am loving it.
 
Quick update, just got my speaker upgrades today through a local shop and I am digging it.

JBL Component 609C in the front, tweeters in dash
JBL GX602 coaxial in the rear doors
JBL S2-12224SS Ported Enclosure sub
AudioControl LC6i
Kenwood Excelon X801 5 Channel Amp
Roadkill Sound Dampening Material

Total paid 1408 before taxes with parts and labor. It feels like I paid a steep price but I am digging what I paid for. The only problem I had with my shop was that they didn't use an adaptor mounting bracket. They cut the front door factory speakers out of the mount, effectively destroyed the factory speakers, and cut the factory mount to fit the new speaker. Slight dust in my car but nothing I'm too ocd about.

Sound wise is overall better than expected. Don't really enjoy a lot of bass but this bass is extremely clean and I am loving it.

Most people do cut factory mounts, I just practice that if they make an adapter, it is worth the extra $20. The thought would be that they should warn you of any permanent modifications ahead of time. Lets look at the equipment though.

(Prices pulled from Sonicelectronix.com, I think their pricing is fair)
JBL Component 609C: $250
JBL GX602 coaxial: $100
JBL S2-12224SS: $160
AudioControl LC6i: $120
Kenwood Excelon X801: $350
Sound Dampening: varies (let's say $80)
Wiring: ??? (I am curious what they used, shops can often cheap out on wiring, this would need a good 4AWG kit) Lets say $60 for something good on high end +RCAs
Total Materials: $1120.

I would say time frame wise. Front Speakers ~1hr, Rears: .5hr, Amp: ~1hr, LC6i, .75hr, Sound Dampening .75hr: Apprx: ~4Hrs
I would say a good rate for a good installer is ~$80/hr.
Total Labor: $320

Total estimate: $1440


I would say if they did everything correctly with quality install and used good wiring, and give you some kind of workmanship/materials warranty, then I think you paid a fair price.

Its funny how close I came but then again I did do it for 8 years LOL. Overall I would say the choices in equipment is very good. They may have been able to save you a little money on the amp but I think the choices match up well and if they put the amp/LC6 under the front seats I can understand why. If you have pics of the install please share them.

This setup I would defiantly suggest to a customer. I like the JBL speakers, a preloaded box is a good choices, a small 5-channel is perfect, and something like an LC6i is a good choice for keeping a factory radio. The LC7i would have been a little bit better choice as I know that factory radios to tend to have a bass roll off but I think you will be fine.
 
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I just got the 2016.5 CX-5 GT (with Bose). Can you let me know what this latest system consist of (any difference from the 2016 Bose)?

Also thinking of the followings:

1. Keep factory stereo
2. Hertz HSK 165XL Component (front/tweeter)
3. Hertz HCX 165 Coaxial (back)
4. Keep the factory center and rear tweet/mid per your suggestion
5. Hertz HCP5D amp (5 channel)
6. Pioneer TS-SWX2502 sub
7. AudioControl LC7i
8. Materials & installation cost

I have some ideas, but can you let me know a reasonable price point for a good installation at a local shop?

Would the factory center/rear be inferior as part of this system? will turning CenterPoint off disable these?

Thank you in advance.
 
The systems should be the same. You typically don't see huge changes in speaker systems unless a major overhaul is done or the body style changes. So your system should be the same as the 2016.

I do not know if turning Center Point off disables these, if it did it would probably only be the center. I do not have a diagram handy. Not sure if the rear tweets or the center speakers are on their own channels. If they are, your ok not touching them. They may not be "inferior" per say which would hurt but you may not hear them as well considering your new speakers will be much better quality on more power. If they are tied in with the other channels via a passive crossover for example, then it is best to turn center point off and unhook them.

I'd say $350-$400 is a good install price. Parts wise take your pick.
 
The systems should be the same. You typically don't see huge changes in speaker systems unless a major overhaul is done or the body style changes. So your system should be the same as the 2016.

I do not know if turning Center Point off disables these, if it did it would probably only be the center. I do not have a diagram handy. Not sure if the rear tweets or the center speakers are on their own channels. If they are, your ok not touching them. They may not be "inferior" per say which would hurt but you may not hear them as well considering your new speakers will be much better quality on more power. If they are tied in with the other channels via a passive crossover for example, then it is best to turn center point off and unhook them.

I'd say $350-$400 is a good install price. Parts wise take your pick.

Thanks for the quick response. I'd prefer stereo rather than surround sound. From what I read, the center and rear tweets are more for CenterPoint SS, and probably have their own channels.

Would you recommend the HSK 165XL Component for both front and rear, and take out the center altogether? Everyone's preference is different, but generally speaking, will the system be too bright with 4 tweeters? I guess it's irrelevant since the rear Coaxial would include the tweeter also.

Thanks again. I'm familiar with home system, but a newbie when it comes to car stereo.
 
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I have 4 tweeters(Polks in dash and Infinity Primus by the mirror), but also a Kenwood DNN991HD and I can adjust the level/gain/13 band EQ, so it is not too bright.
Soon, I will replace the existing Infinity Primus component set, with a Focal PS165FX set.
I'm even thinking about, removing the dash ones. The more I'm reading about this, I'm finding out, that they reflect off the windshield and that is not good.
 
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Thanks for the quick response. I'd prefer stereo rather than surround sound. From what I read, the center and rear tweets are more for CenterPoint SS, and probably have their own channels.

Would you recommend the HSK 165XL Component for both front and rear, and take out the center altogether? Everyone's preference is different, but generally speaking, will the system be too bright with 4 tweeters? I guess it's irrelevant since the rear Coaxial would include the tweeter also.

Thanks again. I'm familiar with home system, but a newbie when it comes to car stereo.

I would not worry too much about brightness. You will need to have some good adjustments but the gear is good enough to do well. I will tell you that most folks will agree a lot of it comes down to the install quality. You want to make sure your front doors are treated well with dampening materials to keep the midbass up front.
 
Hello good people of the forum, I want to add on to this thread since it's relatively recent and I find myself in a similar situation to OP. Here are my facts:

I hate the Bose sound system in my 2016 CX-5 GT.
I fear changing the head-unit will mean I lose some functionality with the steering wheel controls or something else.
I understand that the Bose speakers and Bose amp are tailored to one another and really shouldn't be used with mismatched equipment.
I like a flat/plain-sounding speaker. I had a Pioneer head unit and speakers ($200 for the entire kit, with four5x7 speakers) in my 2002 Mercury Sable and I thought they sounded much better than the Bose. The Pioneer system needed more bass, though, and while I'd never install a box, I am interested in the under-seat options.
I don't like that the sound appears to come from the front dash, I want the rear speakers for more than just low-end.
I think it would be really cool to put a sub in the spare tire, but that compartment gets so hot and the spare tire doesn't look lareg enough to hold a woofer. You could probably remove the spare and just poot the woofer setup in that storage space, but it would still get pretty hot.

So given the above:

What brand speaker should I get? I would probably be happy with the Pioneers but maybe there is a better option.
What sizes of speakers do I need?
What are good options for an under-seat sub?
How much wiring needs to be run? Shouldn't the existing wires be reusable to some extent?
What kind of amp do I get?

Thanks, guys, sorry if this is getting off original topic.
 
Hello good people of the forum, I want to add on to this thread since it's relatively recent and I find myself in a similar situation to OP. Here are my facts:

I hate the Bose sound system in my 2016 CX-5 GT.
I fear changing the head-unit will mean I lose some functionality with the steering wheel controls or something else.
I understand that the Bose speakers and Bose amp are tailored to one another and really shouldn't be used with mismatched equipment.
I like a flat/plain-sounding speaker. I had a Pioneer head unit and speakers ($200 for the entire kit, with four5x7 speakers) in my 2002 Mercury Sable and I thought they sounded much better than the Bose. The Pioneer system needed more bass, though, and while I'd never install a box, I am interested in the under-seat options.
I don't like that the sound appears to come from the front dash, I want the rear speakers for more than just low-end.
I think it would be really cool to put a sub in the spare tire, but that compartment gets so hot and the spare tire doesn't look lareg enough to hold a woofer. You could probably remove the spare and just poot the woofer setup in that storage space, but it would still get pretty hot.

So given the above:

What brand speaker should I get? I would probably be happy with the Pioneers but maybe there is a better option.
What sizes of speakers do I need?
What are good options for an under-seat sub?
How much wiring needs to be run? Shouldn't the existing wires be reusable to some extent?
What kind of amp do I get?

Thanks, guys, sorry if this is getting off original topic.

My advice, you can make the hated Bose with Center Point turned on sound decent with a simple Pioneer mono amp and low profile 10 inch Pioneer sub. Once installed all you have to do is fade to the rear 1-2 clicks, set the Bose bass to max 10/10, Bose treble to 4/10, amp gain 0, amp control knob to 25%. You'll get closer to that flat sound with recessed yet still clear highs, more defined mids, and separate deep bass all having their own space to produce sound.

I have no experience with how the under seat subs sound. Here's the Pioneer amp and sub in a mazda3. The sub would be fine and will not overheat. The amp is a class D and should withstand the heat but I live in Arizona with 110+ temps in the summer so my amp is under my seat cooled by the aC vent.

9sL4ZB2l.jpg
 
My advice, you can make the hated Bose with Center Point turned on sound decent with a simple Pioneer mono amp and low profile 10 inch Pioneer sub. Once installed all you have to do is fade to the rear 1-2 clicks, set the Bose bass to max 10/10, Bose treble to 4/10, amp gain 0, amp control knob to 25%. You'll get closer to that flat sound with recessed yet still clear highs, more defined mids, and separate deep bass all having their own space to produce sound.

I have no experience with how the under seat subs sound. Here's the Pioneer amp and sub in a mazda3. The sub would be fine and will not overheat. The amp is a class D and should withstand the heat but I live in Arizona with 110+ temps in the summer so my amp is under my seat cooled by the aC vent.

9sL4ZB2l.jpg

How do I +1 your post?
 

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