New 2010 Mazda5 Owner ... storage question(s)?

[pingisi]

I recently traded in my wife's odyssey for a Mazda5. I love how it drives, the gas mileage, the fact that my kids aren't miles apart. However, I'm struggling with the fact that I have no room for anything (i.e. strollers, groceries etc.). I have 2 1/2 year old twins in the 3rd row (car seats) and I have a 1 month old in one of the 2nd row seats. We're trying to figure out where to put stuff. I'm thinking I'm going to have to remove the remaining 2nd row seat for more room. Does anyone have any suggestions? PLEASE!?(bang)

Thanks in advance!

 

[lindsayt]

Haha, you're about the biggest family that could possibly squeeze into a Mazda5! My wife and I have a 5-year-old daughter so it's plenty spacious for us, but you'll be tight.

Actually, even for us we decided it would be nice to have a little extra space for trips, so we got the Mazda OEM rack - which is really a straight Thule square-bar rack, with standard Thule locks on it, but with a Mazda logo. It's not as "pretty" as most factory racks but it's loads more useful since all Thule (and most Yakima) accessories fit right on with no expensive adapters.

Anyway, we put on the Mazda rack ($360, it's a ten-minute self-install to the factory mountpoints under the slide-off caps on the roof) and bought a Thule Ascent 1100 cargo box ($330 at REI). It's a long narrow box that allows a bike to go up next to it, but based on what you're describing you may be happier with an Ascent 1700 ($450), which is long, tall and somewhat narrow, or an Ascent 1600 (don't know price), which is wider and not as long but would fit strollers and stuff better.

The 5 is so low that if you open the sliding door and stand on the door sill even a very short woman can reach the contents of the box easily (my wife is 5'3").

The box adds a lot of space and looks pretty good to boot. We take ours off for around-town use, but I don't see any reason why in a case like yours you couldn't just leave it up there permanently.

 

[pingisi]

Haha, you're about the biggest family that could possibly squeeze into a Mazda5! My wife and I have a 5-year-old daughter so it's plenty spacious for us, but you'll be tight.

Actually, even for us we decided it would be nice to have a little extra space for trips, so we got the Mazda OEM rack - which is really a straight Thule square-bar rack, with standard Thule locks on it, but with a Mazda logo. It's not as "pretty" as most factory racks but it's loads more useful since all Thule (and most Yakima) accessories fit right on with no expensive adapters.

Anyway, we put on the Mazda rack ($360, it's a ten-minute self-install to the factory mountpoints under the slide-off caps on the roof) and bought a Thule Ascent 1100 cargo box ($330 at REI). It's a long narrow box that allows a bike to go up next to it, but based on what you're describing you may be happier with an Ascent 1700 ($450), which is long, tall and somewhat narrow, or an Ascent 1600 (don't know price), which is wider and not as long but would fit strollers and stuff better.

The 5 is so low that if you open the sliding door and stand on the door sill even a very short woman can reach the contents of the box easily (my wife is 5'3").

The box adds a lot of space and looks pretty good to boot. We take ours off for around-town use, but I don't see any reason why in a case like yours you couldn't just leave it up there permanently.

Yea that's a good option. Do you know if strollers would fit in those Thule boxes? The main reason I got rid of the Honda was because I hated the way it drove and handled. The 5 is GREAT! My only gripe is the space.

 

[AIMWO4]

I have a 9, 4 & 3 year old. Move two kids to the middle row. Then you can always fold down one seat in the rear. I added a hitch and cargo box, but have only used it once.

FWIW, I have had the entire family in mine with a fold up stroller and a load from Costco. I don't use strollers any more, so I have no issues.

 

[lindsayt]

A stroller will definitely fit in the Ascent 1600. If you use small strollers they'll fit in the other two, but those SUV strollers won't.
By the time my daughter was 18 months we never used a stroller any more, but then we only have one child. I can't imagine the multiplication factor of "stuff" with three kids.

I also agree with AIMW04, put two kids in the middle row and fold down one seat in the third row. That will give you plenty of space. And frankly, given the very short rear on this car, I think the second row is the safest place anyway.

 

[thaxman]

I'll chime in, too - 3 kids: 9, 6, 3. We keep the 3 yr old in the middle and the two that can do their own belts switch occasioanlly btw the middle and back. We typically leave the 3rd row split like AIMWO4. Besides trips to the zoo, we gave up on strollers a long long long time ago, but otherwise, we pack pretty heavy for weekend trips. We have done both: fold down 1 back seat, stuff everything in the "L" shaped cargo area left over, and also folded down one 2nd row bucket and moved it all the way forward, throwing all the bags and pillows and can't-sleep-without-it blankets right there. Hard materials go behind the 3rd row, of course. Its really not that bad, once you decide what you really need and what you can leave behind. I think people tend to overpack anyway (me included)

But it must be tougher with all of them under 3. That means at least 1 pack-n-play, maybe a second if the twins wander @ nite. And to think what your stroller looks like!!! It may be time to break it to the twins that the have legs and need to use them: grownups do

 

[pingisi]

I'll chime in, too - 3 kids: 9, 6, 3. We keep the 3 yr old in the middle and the two that can do their own belts switch occasioanlly btw the middle and back. We typically leave the 3rd row split like AIMWO4. Besides trips to the zoo, we gave up on strollers a long long long time ago, but otherwise, we pack pretty heavy for weekend trips. We have done both: fold down 1 back seat, stuff everything in the "L" shaped cargo area left over, and also folded down one 2nd row bucket and moved it all the way forward, throwing all the bags and pillows and can't-sleep-without-it blankets right there. Hard materials go behind the 3rd row, of course. Its really not that bad, once you decide what you really need and what you can leave behind. I think people tend to overpack anyway (me included)

But it must be tougher with all of them under 3. That means at least 1 pack-n-play, maybe a second if the twins wander @ nite. And to think what your stroller looks like!!! It may be time to break it to the twins that the have legs and need to use them: grownups do

Yea I'm leaning towards moving the twins to the middle seats and the infant in the back and folding down one of the 3rd row seats. There is a little more room than you originally think. I asked the dealer if they could take out one of the 2nd row seats, but I'm starting to re-think that. Plus if we go anywhere (like Mrytle Beach in the Summer) then I would get something for the roof anyway.

Thanks for all the suggestions, you can bet I'll be trying everything!!!

 

[AIMWO4]

This is what I have...

The kids don't ride back there though.... (rlaugh)

 

[pingisi]

This is what I have...

The kids don't ride back there though.... (rlaugh)

HA!! That's a pretty sweet set up too. I'd have to get a trailer hitch installed as well. Is that cheaper/more room than the roof rack? Or is it about the same? Just curious.

Thanks!

 

[Olestra]

I just got a Thule equivalent of the factory rack and Ascent 1600 and it's amazing.
You will find tons of uses and likely use it for the rest of your life.

 

[pingisi]

I just got a Thule equivalent of the factory rack and Ascent 1600 and it's amazing.
You will find tons of uses and likely use it for the rest of your life.

Did you install it yourself or have the dealer do it? Also, can you fit strollers in the Ascent 1600?

Thanks!!

 

[lindsayt]

Don't pay anyone to put the rack on, you need to be able to do it yourself and it's incredibly simple. It'll take you a half hour the first time, but after that it's a five minute job. Here's the whole process for the first-time install:

(1) Get the four riser pieces and snap the rubber feet on them
(2) Slide the two front riser pieces (labeled "fr" and "fl") onto the long bar and the two back risers ("rr" and "rl") on the short bar.
(3) Pop off the four plastic caps on your roof - I found a light push with the flat side of a flathead screwdriver made it easier.
(4) Set the front bar assembly on the front, and rear assembly on the rear, being sure to get it the right way (fr and rr on the passenger side, fl and rl on the driver side).
(5) If they're not already on, spin the thumbwheels onto the big bolts. Slip the lock washers on underneath the thumbwheels
(6) Slip the bolts through the holes in the risers, and thread them (BY HAND!) into the threads embedded in the roof of the car.
(7) Once the bolts are hand-tight, back them out an eighth-turn and spin the thumbwheels down until they're tight against the base of the risers. Make sure they're good and tight, but only as tight as you can get them by hand.
(8) Snap on the covers and lock them shut.
(9) Open a cold one and tell your significant other to admire the mighty works you have wrought.

That's it, your rack is now installed. To put the box on, you just open it up, turn the four thumbwheels to open the clamps, set the box on top of your car, slide the clamps forward or back until you have all four lined up over the two bars, then tighten the thumbwheels down until they're good and tight, being careful to keep them centered. This takes five minutes in the parking lot of REI the first time you ever do it, or two minutes once you've done it.

I *love* how easy it is to put the rack on and off.

 

[pingisi]

Don't pay anyone to put the rack on, you need to be able to do it yourself and it's incredibly simple. It'll take you a half hour the first time, but after that it's a five minute job. Here's the whole process for the first-time install:

(1) Get the four riser pieces and snap the rubber feet on them
(2) Slide the two front riser pieces (labeled "fr" and "fl") onto the long bar and the two back risers ("rr" and "rl") on the short bar.
(3) Pop off the four plastic caps on your roof - I found a light push with the flat side of a flathead screwdriver made it easier.
(4) Set the front bar assembly on the front, and rear assembly on the rear, being sure to get it the right way (fr and rr on the passenger side, fl and rl on the driver side).
(5) If they're not already on, spin the thumbwheels onto the big bolts. Slip the lock washers on underneath the thumbwheels
(6) Slip the bolts through the holes in the risers, and thread them (BY HAND!) into the threads embedded in the roof of the car.
(7) Once the bolts are hand-tight, back them out an eighth-turn and spin the thumbwheels down until they're tight against the base of the risers. Make sure they're good and tight, but only as tight as you can get them by hand.
(8) Snap on the covers and lock them shut.
(9) Open a cold one and tell your significant other to admire the mighty works you have wrought.

That's it, your rack is now installed. To put the box on, you just open it up, turn the four thumbwheels to open the clamps, set the box on top of your car, slide the clamps forward or back until you have all four lined up over the two bars, then tighten the thumbwheels down until they're good and tight, being careful to keep them centered. This takes five minutes in the parking lot of REI the first time you ever do it, or two minutes once you've done it.

I *love* how easy it is to put the rack on and off.

That is easy! I'm doing some price compares now on the rack and box now. Unfortunately there is no REI around here, cause I wanted to see the different sizes of the boxes ... well actually the wife wanted to see the boxes. To me its all the same!

 

[pingisi]

Don't pay anyone to put the rack on, you need to be able to do it yourself and it's incredibly simple. It'll take you a half hour the first time, but after that it's a five minute job. Here's the whole process for the first-time install:

(1) Get the four riser pieces and snap the rubber feet on them
(2) Slide the two front riser pieces (labeled "fr" and "fl") onto the long bar and the two back risers ("rr" and "rl") on the short bar.
(3) Pop off the four plastic caps on your roof - I found a light push with the flat side of a flathead screwdriver made it easier.
(4) Set the front bar assembly on the front, and rear assembly on the rear, being sure to get it the right way (fr and rr on the passenger side, fl and rl on the driver side).
(5) If they're not already on, spin the thumbwheels onto the big bolts. Slip the lock washers on underneath the thumbwheels
(6) Slip the bolts through the holes in the risers, and thread them (BY HAND!) into the threads embedded in the roof of the car.
(7) Once the bolts are hand-tight, back them out an eighth-turn and spin the thumbwheels down until they're tight against the base of the risers. Make sure they're good and tight, but only as tight as you can get them by hand.
(8) Snap on the covers and lock them shut.
(9) Open a cold one and tell your significant other to admire the mighty works you have wrought.

That's it, your rack is now installed. To put the box on, you just open it up, turn the four thumbwheels to open the clamps, set the box on top of your car, slide the clamps forward or back until you have all four lined up over the two bars, then tighten the thumbwheels down until they're good and tight, being careful to keep them centered. This takes five minutes in the parking lot of REI the first time you ever do it, or two minutes once you've done it.

I *love* how easy it is to put the rack on and off.

So I go online to order the roof rack and associated parts (minus the cargo box at this point), and I'm finding pretty good prices for the rack and bars (Thule 460r aero foot, Thule 47" aero load bars, Thule XT fairing and the locks) all for around $360 (free shipping). The I notice that there is a fit kit that is needed (3080 Thule fit kit for xt and aero), however no one has them. Did you need that kit? Is this specific to the 2010 M5??

 

[lindsayt]

So I go online to order the roof rack and associated parts (minus the cargo box at this point), and I'm finding pretty good prices for the rack and bars (Thule 460r aero foot, Thule 47" aero load bars, Thule XT fairing and the locks) all for around $360 (free shipping). The I notice that there is a fit kit that is needed (3080 Thule fit kit for xt and aero), however no one has them. Did you need that kit? Is this specific to the 2010 M5??

Two things:
(1) In my opinion, you want the standard square bars, not the aero bars. Everything made by Thule and almost everything made by Yakima can be attached directly to the square bars with no adapters. The aero bars require expensive adapters for many products and have no real benefit.

(2) The fit kit is the set of rubber pads that adapts the risers to the roofline of our car, and is absolutely required. Every car has a different fit kit. REI tells me that the fit kit for the 5 is the 3069, not the 3080. I'm not going to promise it's right, but here's what REI says fits:
REI Thule Rack Fit for Mazda 5

(3) I went with the Mazda OEM rack, which comes in a single box with all the various parts required, including the feet, the bars, the fit kit, locks, and covers. It doesn't include a fairing though. It's $360 so I thought it was a good deal.

 

[pingisi]

Two things:
(1) In my opinion, you want the standard square bars, not the aero bars. Everything made by Thule and almost everything made by Yakima can be attached directly to the square bars with no adapters. The aero bars require expensive adapters for many products and have no real benefit.

(2) The fit kit is the set of rubber pads that adapts the risers to the roofline of our car, and is absolutely required. Every car has a different fit kit. REI tells me that the fit kit for the 5 is the 3069, not the 3080. I'm not going to promise it's right, but here's what REI says fits:
REI Thule Rack Fit for Mazda 5

(3) I went with the Mazda OEM rack, which comes in a single box with all the various parts required, including the feet, the bars, the fit kit, locks, and covers. It doesn't include a fairing though. It's $360 so I thought it was a good deal.

Ok good I'll go with the square bars. Is there any functional difference between the 2009 and the 2010 M5s? Thats why the 3069 fit kit comes up on REI. I checked out that sight too.

I'm going to go with OEM Mazda rack if I can find it online (not through the dealer).

lindsayt thanks for all your input. Its been a tremendous help!!

 

[lindsayt]

Ok good I'll go with the square bars. Is there any functional difference between the 2009 and the 2010 M5s? Thats why the 3069 fit kit comes up on REI. I checked out that sight too.

I'm going to go with OEM Mazda rack if I can find it online (not through the dealer).

I won't guarantee there isn't a difference, but the OEM rack works for all model years and its feet fit my 2010 perfectly so I can't imagine there would be any difference in the Thule-branded one (esp. since it's almost certainly actually the same part).

lindsayt thanks for all your input. Its been a tremendous help!!

No problem! I just went through figuring this all out for the same car two weeks ago, so it's fresh!

 

[pingisi]

I won't guarantee there isn't a difference, but the OEM rack works for all model years and its feet fit my 2010 perfectly so I can't imagine there would be any difference in the Thule-branded one (esp. since it's almost certainly actually the same part).


No problem! I just went through figuring this all out for the same car two weeks ago, so it's fresh!

Great!! I'm ordering the OEM roof rack online. I'll get the cargo box somewhere else. There's an REI near where I work so I can swing by there to check out the sizes!!

Once again ... THANK YOU!!!!

 

[AIMWO4]

The hitch was about $80... I put it on. The box is deeper than a top mount. It tilts out of the way, and is easier to get to. I have it on a Saab wagon many years ago... We also use it on our other vehicle. Suitcases and strollers fit in very nicely.

HA!! That's a pretty sweet set up too. I'd have to get a trailer hitch installed as well. Is that cheaper/more room than the roof rack? Or is it about the same? Just curious.

Thanks!

 

[volvovod]

Two things:
(1) In my opinion, you want the standard square bars, not the aero bars. Everything made by Thule and almost everything made by Yakima can be attached directly to the square bars with no adapters. The aero bars require expensive adapters for many products and have no real benefit.

(2) The fit kit is the set of rubber pads that adapts the risers to the roofline of our car, and is absolutely required. Every car has a different fit kit. REI tells me that the fit kit for the 5 is the 3069, not the 3080. I'm not going to promise it's right, but here's what REI says fits:
REI Thule Rack Fit for Mazda 5

(3) I went with the Mazda OEM rack, which comes in a single box with all the various parts required, including the feet, the bars, the fit kit, locks, and covers. It doesn't include a fairing though. It's $360 so I thought it was a good deal.

I have a comment and a question. First, a comment: I believe you do not have to pay the list price ($360) for the roof rack. You can get an OEM rack from a number of places (Mazdagear.com comes to mind), including some eBay vendors for ~$280. Now I'll ask my question: Thule website gives you two options for the 5: one involves using kit 3069, the other one calls for kit 3005. My understanding is that 3005 mounts to pre-drilled holes in the car roof. Does 3069 do the same?