need some product advise

1

1sty

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Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
I was looking for a kit to take care of the outside of the genesis but haven t had much luck. I didn't want to get anything with a buffer as I don't really have the time, money, or patience for the complexity that comes with it.

Ideally it would be just products including a one step wax, clay bar, brushes, mits, drying towel, car wash. The basics.

I am not type to spend two days detailing anymore.
The car was not detailed well at all by the dealer and I already did some basic wax on it once. It was just some crappy wax that the dealership conned my wife into buying with her Pontiac and after only a month its basically all washed away.

So i figured I needed to do a wash, a clay bar, then a wax as the car is only a month old.
Brand wise, i don't know even where to start anymore.

Here is the best I can find so far...I think:
http://www.superiorcarcare.net/pincomdetwax.html
 
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Another potential one:

http://www.autogeek.net/forfavkit.html

I've had good luck with the Klasse products on my MS6, and will continue to use them. The AIO is phenomenal for post-clay polishing. Top that with the glaze, although a bit hard to get off, the shine is brilliant.
 
I ended up buying the package from Detailed image.
Shipping was good and fast and the contents were as advertised.
I was surprised to actually take it all in when I unpacked the products. This is a lot of stuff.
I need to organize and label it all so I know what to use as I am working.
 
That's a pretty good sized package. A little on the pricey side, but if it works, go for it. Post some results when you're done.
 
Yeah a nice package for sure... but for that money, or maybe a wee bit more, you could have picked up a porter cable starter kit, compound, polish, wax, and claybars.
 
I wanted all of the tire and interor stuff two. Not to mention the towels and applicators so I didnt have to go buy anything except two buckets.

The polisher packages I saw with all this were in the $400 range...no thanks
 
I'm interested to see how that Poorboy's wheel sealant works. I've been debating on whether or not to order some for my wheels.
 
Some good products in there. I love 303 stuff. I use some of those PB's products but some of them, as I think you'll find, aren't really worth it. Should last you for a while too for what you are wanting.
 
Thrill, do you bother claying the windows and wheels too or is that just going to unnecessary extrema?

Also any point in adding a wax over the sealer other then for looks or using two coats of the sealant?
 
Claying the windows and wheels make sense. Especially if you have an older car that has seen a lot of contamination build up. If you do a wax and sealant, defidently do the wax first to bring out a deeper shine, then the sealant to protect it well. Don't do wax after sealant... it's a waste.
 
1sty said:
Thrill, do you bother claying the windows and wheels too or is that just going to unnecessary extrema?

Also any point in adding a wax over the sealer other then for looks or using two coats of the sealant?
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Depends on the condition. Claying works well on windows that have a lot of sap or bugs. Clay comes in very handy for wheels with heavy grime and dust. But if kept in good condition you shouldn't need to clay the wheels.

For wax and sealant, I do it both ways. Kinda depends on the product and what I'm going for. Most people tend to do sealant first and wax over it. In fact if you go over to autopia you would be ridiculed for putting a sealant over a wax. But many of the pros would disagree, like me, and say it is just fine to do a wax then a sealant. I like to use some of my high quality carnaubas and then top with opti-seal. Which works very well and looks amazing. Now, if protection is what you want most, get a good sealant base (at least two coats to ensure coverage) then top with a nice looking nuba or glaze, and repeat as you feel needed.
 
Saskatchewan17 said:
Claying the windows and wheels make sense. Especially if you have an older car that has seen a lot of contamination build up. If you do a wax and sealant, defidently do the wax first to bring out a deeper shine, then the sealant to protect it well. Don't do wax after sealant... it's a waste.
Click to expand...


Like I said above, many people would disagree with you and me that putting a sealant over a nuba is a good idea. But, too I can't say it would be a waste to do the reverse. Both are viable options. Product choices play a big role whichever way you go though, as some don't play nice with others.

Thing to do is experiment with what you've got and see what look/works the best for you...and enjoy!
 
Poorboy's wheel sealant is awesome! I use it on all my wheels, including winters which look brand new after 3 years in harsh salt conditions. They get a thorough clean and wax before and after each winter.

winterwheel1.jpg


winterwheel2.jpg
 
Well I went at the car today I figure I am doing somethig wrong.
The Clay never stopped making the scraping sound for me no matter how long I stayed in one area.

Also I must have waited to long after applying the sealant before trying to take it off because now to get it off it takes so much force some panels actually bow.

Any help there would be appreciated
 
That doesn't sound right... the clay should just glide over your new cars. Make sure you are using a lot of lubrication with the claybar. You can never have enough when it comes to claybar lubrication. Maybe you were mistaking the "wax" for bits of claybar stuck to the paint? Is it a paste wax? If so they are a bit tougher to remove than liquid waxes or sealants. It just requires a little patience and a trusty clean dry microfiber. You might want to try spraying the car with quick detailer when removing the wax. That could help it come off easier.
 
I think I used more clay lube then I should, went through 1/3 the bottle.
I don't have wax, its sealant.
I think I know what I did wrong, I applied the sealant on to heavy and in a back and forth motion when I was supposed to buff it on with circular motions. That mixed with the temperature dropping to 55 degrees may have been the issue.
I don't have any quick detailer but was thinking of using a little of the clay lube to get the excess off tomorow....whould that be ok and not remove what selaent is on the car?
 
1sty said:
Well I went at the car today I figure I am doing somethig wrong.
The Clay never stopped making the scraping sound for me no matter how long I stayed in one area.

Also I must have waited to long after applying the sealant before trying to take it off because now to get it off it takes so much force some panels actually bow.

Any help there would be appreciated
Click to expand...

Hard to say without experiencing the issue first hand. My suggestion would be to try using an apc or some such product as your claylube. If I am faced with some difficult contamination I use my p21s TAW as my clay lube. Most of the time this solves my issue. As for using too much lube...not likely. In fact in most cases the more lube the better. Dedicated "Clay Lubes" are a waste of money. Buy some quick detailer that can be diluted and used as a lube, or just use your car wash soap and water as your lube.

I don't have much good to say about about Chem Guys sealant, so I'll leave it at that. But your problem, I'm sure, is that you used too much. Products like that one have to be put on ultra thin! The motion doesn't matter so much, but go with what they suggest. The big factors is how much you apply and how long you let it set.
 
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