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my3needsaname
It's all "good stuff!!"
But I hope it wakes up my car as much as the other guy's. Maybe some of those Pulstar spark plugs would help too...
But I hope it wakes up my car as much as the other guy's. Maybe some of those Pulstar spark plugs would help too...
yeah a new driver would be much better...HAHA
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my3needsaname
That's just mean, I might not have gotten cork soaker that fast but when it comes to driving, I am the s***.
MightyMouse
Member
Sooooooo.... back to oil. Mobil One is still hard to find here in NC post hurricane season. If you can't find Mobil One, I would recommend Pennzoil Plantnum. I've used Pennzoil for years in many different vehicles and never had an engine wear problem. As for weight, I think that will mostly depend on the climate/season where you live.
i agree, i used penzoil plat before i started using modil1....good stuff
M
my3needsaname
It rains like a month a year...maybe and it's CA weather, sunny and warm yet still cool until the summer hits when it's around 80-105 everyday. Winter we get down into freezing but right now it's a cool 63-65 all this week lows are about 30-40 and that's about it.
I started thinking 10W-20 to get a better temp range but keeping the same viscosity. Just a thought.
M
my3needsaname
Alright, I got some regular Mobil1 10W-30 fully synthetic oil and she seems to like it, I have zero cabin vibrations from the engine now.
My car has never had such a problem, although is has under 9k miles on it.
M
my3needsaname
The oil could have been contaminated, wouldn't surprise me. But before I had 1 solid issue and then some cabin vibrations that all, have so far, went away or have been muffled with the new oil.
I've got around 3,100 on mine, this was the first oil change.
I've got around 3,100 on mine, this was the first oil change.
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Make sure you get some BG MOA. Let me know if you had better performance out of the engine.
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my3needsaname
I was kind of in a rush to get to the guys that did my oil change and I couldn't find any in Kragen or Monument Auto Parts. But next time I'll start another thread that's probably going to be titled "how should I protect my engine through the oil?" and it'll start off like "so this is my second oil change and I was wondering what kind of additives you guys use to keep your engine clean and running perfectly smooth..."
That is when I will get reminded of the BG MOA and use it.
sl0wthe0ry
pfft....MS3?
- :
- Mazda 3s
people in cali say ya'll too?!
/sorry for the thread jack. haha
/sorry for the thread jack. haha
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my3needsaname
IDK, I've seen the Expedition we have get more rough as the 5K interval oil changes roll on so I'm gonna try this and see how good it is for my engine.
I had to get out of the break-in oil.
Course, although my dad's from Texas so it lives in me. Haha.
Standard maintenance schedule says 6 months/7,500 miles.
Severe Duty schedules says 4 months/5,000 miles
More frequent changes in a street vehicle are a waste.
The old 3 month/3000 miles is perpetuated to (a)make you buy more oil changes/products and (b) is the leftover recommendation for oil formulations from 40+ years ago. That, and its easy to remember for the average dumb consumer.
Engine oil additives are generally snakeoil. If you have to add anything to oil, especially synthetics, you're using the wrong oil.
General synthetic advice:
>>Several name brand synthetics on the market use a hydrocracked a petroleum base stock...while this is still good quality oil, its not a true synthetic. Check and see if the base stock is a true synthetic...I mean, if you're paying for it, why not make sure you're getting what you pay for.
>>Stay away from the blends...10/90% synthetic/standard oil can be marketed as a blend...and then they can charge 50-100% more than regular oil. If you're too cheap to go full synthetic, mix your own 50/50 blend.
Personally, I like Amsoil. I run a 0w-30 fuel economy formula.
And no...despite their small business owner oriented distribution, they have nothing to do with Amway. Once you figure out and sign up for their direct sales, you can place orders for 20-25% off the retail amount. The particular formula I run is rated for 28,000 miles of use. That's not a typo. However, I've never gone that long.
What it all boils down to...use a reputable oil (API certified) and filter (not Fram), follow the factory recommended service intervals religiously and it's all good.
Severe Duty schedules says 4 months/5,000 miles
More frequent changes in a street vehicle are a waste.
The old 3 month/3000 miles is perpetuated to (a)make you buy more oil changes/products and (b) is the leftover recommendation for oil formulations from 40+ years ago. That, and its easy to remember for the average dumb consumer.
Engine oil additives are generally snakeoil. If you have to add anything to oil, especially synthetics, you're using the wrong oil.
General synthetic advice:
>>Several name brand synthetics on the market use a hydrocracked a petroleum base stock...while this is still good quality oil, its not a true synthetic. Check and see if the base stock is a true synthetic...I mean, if you're paying for it, why not make sure you're getting what you pay for.
>>Stay away from the blends...10/90% synthetic/standard oil can be marketed as a blend...and then they can charge 50-100% more than regular oil. If you're too cheap to go full synthetic, mix your own 50/50 blend.
Personally, I like Amsoil. I run a 0w-30 fuel economy formula.
And no...despite their small business owner oriented distribution, they have nothing to do with Amway. Once you figure out and sign up for their direct sales, you can place orders for 20-25% off the retail amount. The particular formula I run is rated for 28,000 miles of use. That's not a typo. However, I've never gone that long.
What it all boils down to...use a reputable oil (API certified) and filter (not Fram), follow the factory recommended service intervals religiously and it's all good.
M
my3needsaname
I know what the recommended oil changes are, I just want to keep my car in the most pristine condition. Basically in 5-7 years when I sell it, I want to look and drive like it just rolled off the assembly line.
I know that the oil I bought is true full synthetic ad that anything with blends is bulls***, everybody knows that companies rip you off when they say there's a blend. Neither do I trust that the mileage they rate it for, be it 28,000, 15,000, or anything else, is correct. You might be able to squeeze 10K out of it but 28,000 is absolute crap and I don't see why anybody would try to run it for that long.
I went wiht Mobil1 and a Motorcraft filter form the Ford dealer that did the oil change since Mazda isn't open on Saturday nor do I trust them as much as my Ford dealer.
racerboy777
Member
- :
- Mazda3i Touring
+1 5W20!!!
I have 130k on my 3 now, it still runs and drives great just about as good as the day we got it. It's been running Valvoline synthetic blend since new. Its been in the family since new but it has become officially Mine recently and i just did its first oil change and put in Valvoline full synthetic and it runs significantly better then it did with blend. Takes longer to warm up in the mornings though, but besides that its great! I used Mobil1 in my old car and would continue using it in the mazda but its not offered at my service station, they only use Valvoline. Don't know if its worth all the extra effort to get mobil1 over valvoline.....my old car is still alive and running like new still...it was a 15 year old camry with almost a quarter million miles on it...still runs like New, automatic shifts great too..lol actually its shift logic was a lot better then the mazda's at slow crawling speeds lol 
