Need some help: wheel vibrating, front end noise, misalignment, etc, etc, etc!!!

nilsonov

Member
So, it all started with some blown shocks many months ago. I replaced those and felt a difference big time, especially when accelerating over rough/bumpy pavement. Great!
Then I started hearing a clunking noise when going over bumps and when going from stopped/coasting to accelerating, like if something was shifting when I hit the gas. Searched the forums and identified the endlinks as suspect (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123758163) . Sure enough, one of them was damaged. Replaced it. No dice, clunk still there (also, checked the bushings, looking good). What's worse, is that now car steering wheel pulsates at slow speeds. It's most pronounced at a speed of a slow walking. With every rotation of the wheels, it pulses to the left. The slower I go the more the steering will move to the left. I checked the lug nuts, took wheel off and back on, again, no dice.
I also noticed that whenever I move hte steering wheel from left to right (or vise versa) I hear a click (and feel it on the tie rod). Lastly, the car has always had a misalignment, but I'm pretty sure it's not whats causing all of this, right?

I've searched the forum for a couple of days and most deals with bad tires and unbalanced tires. Any help would be appreciated, I am at a loss now!
 
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Sway bar bushings possibly? If the bar is loose it could possibly be felt in the steering wheel and make a clunking noise.
 
You mean the "Front lower arm"? #3 in pic...
 

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Check your a-arms(#3 above). One of my bolts was loose and caused some noise. But more noticeably turning issues. Car would turn fine but every so often dosome weird pulling. Tightend up some bolts and all is well. I also experienced loud clunking noises when coming to a stop. Noises when going over speed bumps. And noises when turning the wheel while
moving slow. Like I said tightening up some bolts solved the whole problem.
 
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isn't clicking while turning indicative of a bad CV joint? I've never experienced this, but that's what I have heard. I would check the boots and make sure they're in good shape first.
 
Brake disks warped? Happens from time to time, but can be made worse if lugnuts are overtightened by a shop when they change tires.
 
Brake disks warped? Happens from time to time, but can be made worse if lugnuts are overtightened by a shop when they change tires.

This doesn't sound like what he is having problems with at all.

OP: Check your CV Joints and tie-rods & all your bolts as the poster above mentioned. Also, did you replace all of your strut mounts/bearings when you replaced your struts?
 
This doesn't sound like what he is having problems with at all.

OP: Check your CV Joints and tie-rods & all your bolts as the poster above mentioned. Also, did you replace all of your strut mounts/bearings when you replaced your struts?

Replaced both front struts. What bearings are you referring to? Unless it was part of strut/shock assembly, I didn't.
 
The strut mounts - what the stuts are attached to the tower with - have an integrated bearing. I just replaced mine as well when I did my front struts yesterday. I also changed out the front bearings. No more noise. This is a new-to-me car and I was delighted to find out that there was no axle nut on the passsnger side hub. Soooo, I also had to install a new half-shaft on that side.
The wheel was essentally being held on by the brake caliper!

It sounds to me like you need a CV joint as well.
 
The strut mounts - what the stuts are attached to the tower with - have an integrated bearing. I just replaced mine as well when I did my front struts yesterday. I also changed out the front bearings. No more noise. This is a new-to-me car and I was delighted to find out that there was no axle nut on the passsnger side hub. Soooo, I also had to install a new half-shaft on that side.
The wheel was essentally being held on by the brake caliper!

It sounds to me like you need a CV joint as well.

the axel nut holds the axel shaft to the hub.. you can actually install the wheels with no drivetrain on the car at all... and the wheel will still be held to the hub. just an FYI.
 
See the attached drawing in my post #3. Can you point out where the strut bearing is?
Also, I've seen bad CV joints, and I'm sure this is not it...unless it may just be the beggining, because I don't ge ta clicking sound when I turning while moving at slow speeds. Also how does any of this explain when cyclical tug on the steering wheel? I can see the bearing being the cause of the noise though.

The strut mounts - what the stuts are attached to the tower with - have an integrated bearing. I just replaced mine as well when I did my front struts yesterday. I also changed out the front bearings. No more noise. This is a new-to-me car and I was delighted to find out that there was no axle nut on the passsnger side hub. Soooo, I also had to install a new half-shaft on that side.
The wheel was essentally being held on by the brake caliper!

It sounds to me like you need a CV joint as well.
 
have you checked your a-arm bolts?

i experienced that tug before... it was loose bolts
 
Thanks, Willl be doing that over turkey day and report back.

np

hopefully that is the issue... i had that tugging steering for awhile cuz i was too lazy to check what was really going on... all i knew is that i could jack up the front and wiggle the tire by grabbing the top and bottom...

got a better jack and raised the car higher... got under there, and wiggled the tire by pressing on the bottom... i could see the a-arm moving where it is connected to the lower sub-frame (not the strut side)... even though the bolt looked like it was tight... when i took a torque bar and 17mm socket i could tighten it up quite a bit... and since i was under there i decided to tighten up whatever i could see...

someone also mentioned strut mount bearings... those are going to be a b!tch if you have stock suspension to check... they are sandwiched in the upper strut mount... when i was running coil sleeves my strut mount bearings would go all the time... that caused creaking cracking sounds while turning...

but the loose bolt problem seems to be more of the same problem you are having now... tugging steering while making turns... well not to much making a turn but holding a turn... and i had loud clunking noises while reversing out of my drive way because i had to turn quite a bit... and loud clunking noises while coming to a stop... and squeaking clicking sounds when going over speedbumps...

hope you find out whats wrong and can share your experience with the rest of us
 
Some ideas:

I left a lower balljoint bolt pinch bolt loose that caused clunking. Or the ball joint is toast.

Seen the strut top nut be loose so the strut rod has room to slam up and down.

One bad wheel bearing caused my steering wheel to shake at highway speeds.

When the struts were installed the top plate orientation was way off, maybe 180* (not sure if thats possible on these cars).

Check every bolt for looseness. If the alignment has been a problem for ever maybe its a bent knuckle. I didn't think they were as soft of a metal as they are (found out the hard way).

Could jack up both front tires onto GOOD jackstands, crank the ebrake, block the back wheels and let it run in first gear, get out and listen, turn the wheel back and forth etc. Careful though this is dangerous! If not this at least jack it up and try to move the tire to and fro and up and down to see if there is any play in it, should be none.
 
"...that now car steering wheel pulsates at slow speeds. It's most pronounced at a speed of a slow walking. With every rotation of the wheels, it pulses to the left. The slower I go the more the steering will move to the left. I checked the lug nuts, took wheel off and back on, again, no dice."

What happens if you spin the wheel when it's off the ground? 1/rev pulsing, particularly something that shows up going slow, is either brakes or a bad cv bearing. Something is binding in a particular angular position. Bushings etc. aren't likely to cause that.
 
I had a major vibration in the front of my car and it ended up being the wheel barings. I would look into that as well.
 
Lifted the car up today, shock all the wheels...no play anywhere. Bushings look great. This is a great idea nlines, I'll try it out this weekend. After that I think it'll be time for mechanic. but I'd hate to do that!

What happens if you spin the wheel when it's off the ground? 1/rev pulsing, particularly something that shows up going slow, is either brakes or a bad cv bearing. Something is binding in a particular angular position. Bushings etc. aren't likely to cause that.
 
Problem solved (mostly!). It was two very simple things: 1) badly worn tire which caused most of hte shakin and wheel tugging and 2) driver side engine mount (aka transmission mount) had the bolt come loose and almost completly out. Lifted up te engine and tighted the bolt back in. All is good now minus the clunk when I turn the wheel quickly from one side to the other. SOunds like some play in the steering..but I can live with that!!

Thanks all
 

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