need some cam info

Ms = Mazdaspeed
MSP = Mazdaspeed Protege

:D

122 Vega said:
I think to ease confusion, refer to them as Mazdaspeed and J-spec cams as opposed to MSP cams. MSP has become the common acronym for the Mazdaspeed Protege. That is what is confusing people.

Britt
 
ERRG!!! i already KNOW THAT, i'm looking for some real information! not if the ****** msp ppl think they have different cams:mad: but what specs would need to be ground on blank cams forget about MSP and all of that s*** it doesn't mean anything
 
They sort of answered it...

In Japan Sport 20's come with the FS-ZE...you know what that it is...same as the FS-DE with 10.4:1 compression (I think maybe 10.2:1), a different INTKAKE cam (hence the J-spec intake cam) and a different intake manifold...Around the time of the north american MP3's release, there was a performance varient of the Sport 20 with a little higher compression, different timing, and a different exhuast cam (also had gold MP3 style wheels, and I think it was only available in Laser Blue Mica)...all that bumped output closer to 180bhp from 170bhp...despite still being rated as the factory 170bhp ZE...

So...

JDM importers such as Corksport sell:
J-spec ZE intake cam
Mazdaspeed exhuast cam
Mazdaspeed high compression pistons (10.5:1 or 10.7:1 depending on year I think)
FS-ZE high compression pistons (10.2:1 or 10.4:1, can't remember)

The ZE's exhaust cam is the same as the DE's...None of the japanese mazdaspeed parts come on the North American Mazdaspeed protege...

The Mazdaspeed parts are limited, which is why corksport no longer carries the Mazdaspeed exhuast cam...they simply ran out of them for importing...The mazdaspeed pistons are less popular, but once enough are purchased will follow a similar fate...

ED's FAQ has the specs of both JDM cams...;)
 
you can make whatever specs you want....but all depends on what you can afford to loose....ie low end.

the cams i have had ground are 272deg advertised duration (@0.006"), 226deg @ 0.050" and lift of 0.351". both intake and exhuast. much more than j-spec and MS stuff.

wont work well on the american engine due to your low compression ratio. us aussies get 9.7:1 compression as stock, so they will work really well....i'll still be loosing lower end power, but the gain up high is definately worth it
 
twilightprotege said:
you can make whatever specs you want....but all depends on what you can afford to loose....ie low end.

the cams i have had ground are 272deg advertised duration (@0.006"), 226deg @ 0.050" and lift of 0.351". both intake and exhuast. much more than j-spec and MS stuff.

wont work well on the american engine due to your low compression ratio. us aussies get 9.7:1 compression as stock, so they will work really well....i'll still be loosing lower end power, but the gain up high is definately worth it

Anyone on a need to know basis, wondering why these would be too aggressive for an all engine North American FS: Duration intervals at that length will "bleed" off compression during BDC and a few degrees after, allowing some of the fuel and air to be pushed back into the cylinder head...That is the case with all low rod ratio engines...The relatively low piston dwell time allows the piston to start the compression stroke while the intake valves are still open...So if you plan on using cams as aggressive in duration as these, you will also need to bump compression higher to compensate for the actuall loss of compression...

Not trying to sound asshole'ish, just pointing out that these cam specs are too ballsy for us North Americans with the stock 9.2:1 static compression ratio...
 
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with stockie compression - 260deg @ 0.006", 220deg @ 0.050", 0.360" lift.....you'll get very close to the power the cams on my car will make, all due to more lift.

waddia think installshield?
 
I am a little rusty on cam profiles...

I don't think the same gains would be achieved as your bigger duration ones, but maybe close...low rod ratio's tend to have a tough time scavenging for air (It takes more of the intake stroke to gather the same amount of air when compared to a better breathing engine), in which case higher lift does not have as much of a benefit as longer duration...It shouldn't hurt if the lift properties are correct enough to not cause turbulance or kill intake air speed...but keeping the valves open as long as possible has the biggest effect on NA FS's...
 
install - do you think twilight's cam spec would go well with a mp3 with 10.4:1 compression pistons, 4-2-1 header, port matched and a haltech standalong. ive talked to twilight and he said you cant really go any more lift with out redoing the valve train and i cant find anything to help redo the valve train stronger.
 
they would go very well with that compression and especially the Haltech...The cams as big as Twilights will make the engine behave like it has slightly lower compression (possibly 10.2:1 roughly in your setup), but the standalone will allow timing advances and other stuff to make up for it...With his cams, your compression with a standalone and your other mods, a peak output of 170whp shouldn't be too out of reach...
 
thanks man. i would go hotter on the cams. but i cant seam to find any valve train stuff to handle them (maybe tripoint will get back to me sometime) i figure all that 440 injectors, 4.3 final drive, 75 of nitrous. and an LSD would be able to put down some nice times. plus with the haltech you can have duel programs running, one for 93, and one for 110 :D
 
freek that'll be nice if you get all of what you're saying!!!

i dropped my cylinder head off at the machining shop today, i get it back next thursday :) i cant wait!!!!

oh by the way if you're able to get a valve spring out of your car and take it to somewhere like crane cams etc, they'll probably be able to find a spring with a stronger spring rate and that allows more lift too....if you do this, please please please let us all know what car those springs are out of and what specs the new springs are. thanks
 
twilightprotege - im going to try my best. i have all this written down and marking things off my list. but ill put it to you this way. ive had the list for two months now, and have only marked off two things. its going to take a while to get all of this. and good idea on the valve springs. if i get a second car to drive ill take my head off and send the valve train off to crane or crower.
 
sounds like my list of mods ;) hehehe

if i had more time at the moment i'd be taking the valve train to a place here where i live, but the head machining shop needs them all and my mum comes back from italy just after i get the head back so i'm back with only 1 car.

i'd very much like to get nice stiff valve springs and titanium valves. nice and light :)
 
im going to do my best. like i said if i can save the money for a spare motor (or get the second car thats promised to me) ill take the springs and valves out and send them to somebody to get "GOOD" stuff made.
 
Hey I ordered the intake and exhaust cams from shaneracing and the intake cam has the code fs hs . What the hell code is this I searched and can't find any mention of it. Also the exhaust camshafts id code was ground off.

If any one has any info please respond I don't want to be stuck with these if there bogus.
 
i dont like the idea about the code being ground off the exhaust.

i'd suggest taking them to a cam place or mechanic and getting them to workout the specs of the cam
 
I sent them an e-mail asking for a refund because I thought I was buying offical products not reground cams with scratched out id codes. Certnly not for $30 bucks more then I could get the j - spec intake fs ze cam.
 

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